A Long Weekend in Historic Charlottesville, Virginia

Charlottesville is home to Thomas Jefferson's Monticello

A few weeks ago, I decided to carve out a few days to poke around Charlottesville, Virginia, located along the foothills of the Blue Mountains. What I discovered was an array of activities and attractions to appeal to a wide range of interests.

Because I had but three days to explore, I was forced to use my time wisely, so I made it a point to hit the hot spots. What I walked away with was a new appreciation for the area and its rich history.

Staying in the Heart of the Action
If convenience is high on your list of priorities, you can't go wrong by booking a stay in the historic district at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville, located just 20 minutes away from the Charlottesville airport and steps away from The Downtown Mall.

The 205-room hotel has been named the "Number 1 Hotel in Charlottesville," by the Daily Progress and features a seven-story glass atrium, two pools (indoor and outdoor), a fitness center, coffee shop and an onsite restaurant (The Pointe), which I highly recommend. I'll allow the picture below to speak for itself.

Our room at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville.

Not to put you to sleep, but one thing that impressed me the most was the bed, which had me at zzzz. I couldn't get over how comfortable it was. Usually, I sleep like a baby, meaning that I toss, turn and whine. Not here. I felt cradled in comfort and was out like a light in short order. I'll probably be comparing that bed to all others for a very long time.

A delicious dinner done just right at The Pointe, Omni's onsite restaurant.

A Shopper's Paradise
It's not often anymore that you can walk out the front door of your room and find yourself in the middle of an outdoor mall, but that's what you'll find just a few steps from the front door of the Omni. The Downtown Mall is a shopper's paradise, with independent shops for blocks. Should you grow tired of spending all that money and need to take a rest, there are plenty of eateries along the way offering dining, either indoors, or al fresco. To me, that's just icing on the cake.

This little throwback dates to 1951. I love the mid-century modern windows.

The Nook offers dining both inside and outside.

The New Dominion Book Shop is one of the oldest businesses located at the Downtown Mall.

Buskers play for college money.

A view from the second story of a bar overlooking the mall. The Widow's Sons' Masonic Lodge #60 can be seen in this picture. Chartered in 1799, it is one of the oldest Masonic Lodges in Virginia.

A child's carousel dates back to the early 1900s.

A mosaic couch in front of one of the gift shops.

Outdoor dining areas fill up quickly during the evening hours.

One shop that caught my eye was Timberlake's pharmacy and when I saw it was established in 1890, I just had to wander inside to check it out.

Timberlake Drugs was established in 1890.

Perfume, pies and pills are just a few of the items available at Timberlake's.

Timberlake's offers solutions for what ails you and more and what woman can resist a stop at a drug store while on vacation? Maybe I'm just weird like that, but there always seems to be something interesting to be found in an out-of-town drugstore. In this case, their selection of merchandise ran the gamut, from pies, to barrettes, shampoo, aspirin and canes. A rather extensive selection of perfume will have you harkening back on quasi-feminist ditties like this one hawking a scent called Enjoli, which, believe it or not, is still around: "She could bring home the bacon, fry it up in a pan, and never, ever, let you forget you're a man...."

Venture further back and you'll see a quaint space that will transport you to an era when soda fountains were prevalent inside pharmacies due to the common practice of mixing soda water with medicine. The one at Timberlake's has withstood the test of time and still draws its fair share of "regulars," who socialize while sipping on made-to-order drinks like egg creams and milkshakes. Proudly displayed on the wall are old newspaper articles that have been penned about the place over the years. In one article, the writer casually mentions customers ordering ammonia cokes up until the 1980s. Later research revealed "spirits of ammonia" was actually added to the coke and the drink was said to alleviate the side effects of a night on the town. Could it be the gentleman in the story knew where to go to nurse a hangover? I guess we'll never know. I do, know, however, that the place holds a soft spot in the heart of many as one of the oldest businesses in Charlottesville.

Step inside Timberlake's soda fountain for a BLT, a coke (sans ammonia) and a side of nostalgia.

The Downtown Mall is also home to Charlottesville's Paramount Theater, created by Rapp & Rapp, the architects who were responsible for the Paramount-Publix theater chain. According to reports, the theater became a landmark almost immediately upon opening on Thanksgiving evening in 1931.  In its heyday, audiences who flocked to the venue week after week numbered in the thousands, but with the advent of television, theaters began to lose their attraction. The Paramount managed to maintain a downtown presence until 1974, when it was forced to shut down. Years later it re-opened, thanks to the grit and determination of those who loved the old mainstay. In 1992, the non-profit Paramount Theater, Inc., purchased the building and worked with a grant from the city on an extensive restoration project costing upwards of $16 million. Today it serves the community as a performing arts center.

The Paramount Theatre operated from 1931-1974, then re-opened again in 2004.

The popcorn counter at The Paramount Theater.

A separate side entrance is a reminder of the days of segregation.

Before we left the downtown area, we decided to dine at a modern-day speakeasy called The Alley Light, which we had trouble finding. After walking up and down the street several times, we enlisted the help of a friendly local, who steered us in the right direction. (Hint: It was through a gate, off the street and appeared to be a private back entrance to a business.)

While we were there we enjoyed a few small plates and creative libations like "Brunch at Becky's" made with Tanqueray, lime, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse. We even spotted a bride and groom from our perch near a window overlooking the street.

Finding the Alley Light is a little difficult--perhaps that's part of the allure?

Brunch at Becky's made with Tanqueray, summer herbs, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse.

The Downtown Mall is a special destination that should be part of any trip to Charlottesville. So what did it take to create the popular area that draws locals and out-of-towners alike? Click on this link to learn about the evolution of the mall and the personalities and pioneers who joined together to make it what it is today.

Visiting Historic Monticello 

Charlottesville is also the location of Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson, who is best known as the author of the Declaration of Independence. Jefferson spent decades in politics, serving as governor of Virginia,  minister to France, the first U.S. Secretary of State, the second Vice President, the third President of the United States and the founder of the University of Virginia.

Today Monticello exists as an educational destination operated by the non-profit "Thomas Jefferson Foundation," which acquired the property in 1923.  Approximately 440,000 visitors stroll the grounds each year, generating an estimated $47 million for the local economy.

Guests have the opportunity to choose from docent-led and self-guided tours of the interior and exterior of the property. Tours of the first floor of the 43-room mansion are conducted year round. Behind-the-scene tours are offered less frequently and offer guests a peek at the second and third floors, along with the dome room. Interior photography is prohibited, so I am providing this link for those who are interested in viewing gallery pictures of various rooms inside the mansion.

A tour of the garden and grounds gives guests a glimpse of Jefferson's enthusiasm for gardening, botany and agriculture. Visitors will see a colorful array of flowers and plants from around the world and learn that Jefferson grew approximately 300 varieties of vegetables and 170 varieties of fruits ranging from apples, to peaches and grapes, to name just a few.

Views of the property.

"As Love Lies Bleeding."

Cypress Vine

Also offered year round are 45-minute "Slavery at Monticello" tours, where visitors will learn more about the individuals who worked on the property at the time. An additional tour spanning almost two hours provides guests with in-depth information on the Hemings Family and includes information on Sally Hemings, her relationship to Thomas Jefferson and the struggles endured by slaves of the era. To learn more about "The Paradox of Liberty, Enslaved Families of Monticello," click on this link.

A servant's house reconstructed to reflect the era between 1790 and 1830.

The Cook's Room was occupied by Monticello's head cook.

The Icehouse was used to store meat and butter and for chilling wine. It was packed with insulated wood chips, or straw.

Thomas Jefferson was also known as an oenophile. While serving in Paris as minister to France, he gleaned quite a bit of knowledge about wine. This later enabled him to act in an advisory capacity to Washington, Madison and Monroe. His cellar contained an impressive selection of wines from Portugal, Spain, Hungary, Germany and Italy. It is said he preferred bottles over casks to ensure the integrity of the wine during the shipping process. It appeared that he was a bit cynical when it came to crewmen, wine merchants and adulteration. (That is, as they say, a whole 'nother story). Thomas Jefferson was known to have said this about his beloved beverage. "My measure is a perfectly sober three or four glasses at dinner and not a drop at  any other time, but as to those three or four glasses,'Je Suis bien friand,'" which, translated, means, "I am very fond."

Jefferson's wine cellar included an impressive selection of European wines. 

Jefferson preferred bottles over casks to ensure their integrity during shipping.

Before leaving the property, be sure to take the path to Jefferson's Grave and the graveyard owned by Thomas Jefferson's descendants.

The Monticello Graveyard.

A list of individuals who are buried at the Graveyard

Jefferson's monument.

As a result of Jefferson's meticulous record keeping, Monticello is known as one of the best-documented, preserved and studied plantations in North America.  To learn more about this designated World Heritage Site, or to schedule a tour, visit the website at monticello.org.

Michie Tavern Area

Next to Monticello is the historic Michie Tavern, which was established in 1784 by Scotsman William Michie and served as the social center of the community until the mid-1800s when it became a private home and was sold out of the Michie family at an estate auction. In 1927, the abode was purchased by an entrepreneur by the name of Mrs. Mark Henderson. Henderson worked as a partner in her husband's shirt-manufacturing business and decided to move the structure to a more accessible and popular area. The home was dismantled, numbered and moved 17 miles by horse, wagon and truck and today it still draws visitors as a museum that tells a tale of 18-century tavern life.

The outside of the Michie Tavern.

Interior rooms at the Michie Tavern.

Kitchen at the Michie Tavern.

A game of Human Life that I found particularly fascinating. If you zoom in, you'll see various individuals like the Hasty Man, the Brute, the Learned Man, etc. I suppose if you embark upon the righteous path, you stand a better chance of winning?

In the 1970s, The Michie Tavern Corporation added additional old outbuildings and today the complex is known as the largest collection of reassembled outbuildings in the country.
"The Ordinary," situated next to the Tavern, serves a buffet lunch year round and is quite popular as you can see by the long line, which is often the case, according to our tour guide. "They serve some delicious fried chicken," she said. The Michie Tavern's Bill of Fare for that particular day was southern fried chicken, cornbread, black-eyed peas, stewed tomatoes, cole slaw, beets, green beans with country ham and peach cobbler.

After lunch, many guests take the opportunity to visit the four unique themed shops housed in old, restored cabins.

The Metal Smith Shop is housed in a cabin that dates back to 1822 and was once located just six miles south of where it stands today. 

Remnants of the Old Mill at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.

Jellies are just some of the products sold at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.

The General Store is housed in a Grist Mill dating back to 1797 and offers Virginia-made wines, beer and cider, along with candles, jellies, spreads, gifts and more.

These are just a few highlights of my summer trip to Charlottesville. I understand there is so much more to do and see, from winery tours, to James Monroe's Highland, to hop on/off tours, which I always seem to enjoy.  I haven't even mentioned the world famous and historic University of Virginia and the much-touted  "Corner," which is located on campus and is comprised of an array of shops and restaurants. When I return next year, I'll be sure to provide an update.

Learning about the Past in Historic Fredericksburg, Virginia

Visitors who enjoy history can spend days in Fredericksburg, Virginia, soaking in the tidbits from the many well-informed, friendly residents who call the town home.

The picturesque area, located about an hour from our nation's capital, features a variety of destinations designed to educate and enlighten.

I recently took a whirlwind tour the area and decided to offer a few suggestions for those who have limited time and still wish to make the most of a weekend visit.

Begin with a Trolley Tour
I always suggest taking a bus or trolley tour to get an overview of the area so you can plot your return to destinations of interest. The Trolley Tours of Fredericksburg operates year round, with knowledgeable guides who provide details on fascinating local people and important events that played a prominent part in our nation's history.

In the 1860s, four major Civil War battles were fought within 15 miles of Fredericksburg and many lives were lost during that time. During the 75-minute trolley tour, guests will learn more about those battles and view churches and buildings used by Confederate and Union soldiers.

The area is replete with historic structures--350 of which are recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and date back hundreds of years, like the St. George's Episcopal Church picture below. Built in 1720, the church features stained-glass windows installed in 1912 by Louis Comfort Tiffany. One famous scene is deemed, "The Road to Emmaus."

Information flows quickly, which makes it difficult to watch the world fly by AND take notes, but I did manage to jot down a few details here and there for future research.

Another stop along the way includes the Lewis Store,which dates back to 1749. Owned by George Washington's brother-in-law Fielding Lewis, (who was a member of the House of Burgesses and helped found the Fredericksburg Gun Manufactury during the American Revolution), the structure is known as the oldest mercantile shop in the United States.

The Lewis Store

The Trolley also stops in front of the Rising Sun Tavern, built in 1760 by George Washington's younger brother Charles and the Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop, which dates back to 1771. The guide offered colorful details on how Dr. Mercer served the citizenry with treatments that were popular at the time--like leeches and lancets, for instance. Today it is open to the public as a museum.

The Rising Sun Tavern

The Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop

Riders will also view the Historic Kenmore Plantation built by George Washington's sister Betty and his brother-in-law, the aforementioned Fielding Lewis. George chose to buy his mother a house nearby, which is also along the trolley route, but more on that later.

Downtown Fredericksburg is also home to many restaurants and shops, which include 90 independently owned antique stores, some of which the guide will point out along the way.

The cozy and quaint Ristorante Renato serves traditional Italian specialties like lasagna and meatballs. 

Goolricks Pharmacy, also located downtown, is worthy of a visit. I was attracted to the neon sign because I enjoy keeping up with news from the Society for Commercial Archeology, so I snapped a few pictures during my trip, only to discover later that it touts one of the oldest continuously operating soda fountains in the nation.

Goolrick's Pharmacy established in 1847.

These are but a few destinations you'll see along the tour route. Trolleys run year-round and start at the Fredericksburg Visitor Center located at 706 Caroline Street. Winter tours take place twice daily at 11:00 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Visit the Abode of Mary Washington
The Trolly Tour also passes the Mary Washington House built in 1772 and purchased by George Washington for his mother Mary. The white frame home located on the corner of Charles and Lewis Street in Fredericksburg is within walking distance of the Kenmore Plantation, where Mary's daughter Betty lived. Mary moved there at the age of 64 and resided in the house for approximately 17 years before succumbing to what we learned later was breast cancer.

Today the public can tour the house and the garden, where Mary grew flowers and boxwoods.

Many thanks to Washington Heritage Museums for bending the rules a bit and allowing me to snap a few shots of the interior.

The exterior of the Mary Washington House.

Interior photos of the Mary Washington House

Unique details on a chair in the Mary Washington House

Mary Washington's favorite tea set from China

The first-floor bedroom of the Mary Washington House

George Washington was said to have slept here.

A sundial that belonged to Mary Washington.

Hand-carved chair rail 

Take a Self-Guided Tour of Chatham

Chatham Manor is a beautiful and stately Georgian-style home which was once the residence of farmer-turned-statesman William Fitzhugh. It is one of just three locations visited by both Washington and Lincoln. Although built prior to the Revolutionary War, the place is most remembered for its role during the Civil War where it served as a Union headquarters, hospital and soup kitchen.

Today it stands as headquarters for Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park. Staff volunteers greeted us at the front door and offered to answer any questions we had during the self-guided tour.

During our visit, we learned a few grisly details about the condition of the house after the war, from blood and graffiti on the walls, to damage wreaked by horses housed on the first floor.
Needless to say, the grounds and manor have been restored and guests can view a timeline of its many owners and incarnations over the years.

The entrance to Chatham Manor.

Interior pictures of Chatham Manor.

The kitchen at Chatham Manor.

A cool copper sink, with a window that overlooks the grounds.

A scabbard decorated by a soldier is protected by glass and contains a hand-drawing of Chatham.

Learn about our Fifth President
The James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library is located at 908 Charles Street and contains the largest collection of artifacts and documents related to the fifth president of the United States. Relatives of James and Elizabeth Monroe believed that the small brick structure was once the site of Monroe's law office and chose the site to honor their ancestor, who was elected in 1816 with 80 percent of the electoral vote. It has since been revealed that the building is too new to have been the site of Monroe's law office, but there is no dispute that he did practice law on the same plot of land where the building stands today.

The exterior of the James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library.

James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library

Visitors will learn that Monroe was the first president to occupy the White House after it was burned by the British in the war of 1812 and that the onus was on James and his wife to help furnish the residence. A picture depicting the incident hangs on one of the walls near a piano, which dates back to the Monroe administration and is played today during special events.

Guests get a glimpse into the life and times of Monroe by following a series of panels detailing the timeline of his life and legislation he spearheaded. Artifacts on display include the 1795 desk where the Monroe Doctrine was signed, portraits of the President during various times of his life, jewelry worn by his wife Elizabeth Monroe and a bas-relief, which dates back to 1904 and was created by sculptor Karl Bitter. It served as a template for a bronze sculpture that is now displayed at the Missouri State Capitol and depicts James Monroe, Robert Livingston and Francis Barbe-Marbois signing the Louisiana Purchase treaty.

The scale model of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase was displayed at the 1904 World's Fair. 

Jewelry worn by James Monroe's wife Elizabeth.

The desk on which the Monroe Doctrine was signed. 

Unique Accommodations Offer a Step Back in Time
If you're seeking unique accommodations, go no further than Stevenson Ridge located in nearby Spotsylvania Courthouse, Virginia. I have to admit it was the coolest place I've stayed to date.

Debbie and Dan Spears own the 87-acre property and share a passion for antique structures. After the couple purchased the property in the year 2000, they began restoring antique cottages and relocating them to the property located near the Spotsylvania National battlefield. As of today, Dan has restored nine, updating them with modern conveniences while retaining the original character. "There's a lot to admire in the craftsmanship and artistry of these old buildings," he said.

The couple named their property "Stevenson Ridge" for a Union officer who was killed in the area in 1864 while commanding soldiers who fought in the Battle of Spotsylvania Court House.

The oldest building on the property dates back to 1732 and is deemed "The Spy Hill House." The two-story structure includes a master suite, a queen bed, two wood-burning fireplaces, a living room, kitchenette and a private patio overlooking the pond.

Additional renovated accommodations include a log home dating back to 1830, a tobacco barn, an 1812 plantation home, a corn crib and a renovated post office, to name a few.

When we learned that we would be staying at the Post Office, we couldn't help but be intrigued and I have to say it certainly gained our "stamp" of approval. When I later shared pictures of the place, people marveled how unique it was.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

A view of the front porch of the "Post Office."

Can't wait to get into that robe.

An old-fashioned kitchen with a newfangled Keurig.

A working stone fireplace and a coffee table hewn of wood

A view of the woods from our dining room.

The roomy, rustic living room. 

A view of the door from the inside--glad it had a peg lock because we failed at the skeleton key challenge. 

The "Post Office" bedroom, which provided a peaceful night's sleep.

The stairs to the second floor.

The front porch of The Post Office is tailor made for goofing off. 

A neighboring cabin across the way. 

The pond at Stevenson's Ridge

Another view of the neighbor's cabin

An additional shot of the exterior of the Post Office. 

Mike was blowing on the top of that milk jug, slapping his knee and singing a few minutes before I snapped this picture. 

When I started writing this post, I figured that it would be short and sweet, but it turns out that there is a lot to be said about the destinations I've detailed here. There is so much more history to discover in Fredericksburg and much more to write, but I think I'll stop now, but not before I mention Hallowed Ground Tours. Scott Walker, a retired history teacher, tailors his tours to each group he engages, so whether you have a solid knowledge of history or none at all, Walker will work with you to discover your interests and provide accordant information.

My only regret in visiting the area is that we allotted so little time to get the "full-on" Fredericksburg experience. I hear the area is beautiful during the summer, and next year we intend to find out.