A late fall visit to Beaufort (pronounced BYOO-fert) offered the chance to experience the coastal town after the bustle of tourist season had faded and the heat and humidity had eased.
Beaufort is located on Port Royal Island, between Charleston and Savannah, along South Carolina's southern coast. Surrounded by salt marches and tidal creeks, the city is part of the Sea Islands, a region known for its natural beauty. Although I once wrote for Sea Island Life magazine, I realized--somewhat to my surprise--that this was my first time truly experiencing Sea Island life firsthand.
History Abounds
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| Beaufort's scenic waterfront. |
Founded in 1711, Beaufort is the second-oldest city in South Carolina. Its walkable downtown is a designated National Historic Landmark District, with many well-preserved buildings dating to the 18th and 19th centuries. Unlike many Southern towns, Beaufort emerged from the Civil War with much of its architecture intact--partially because it was captured early, sparing it from retaliatory destruction.
The scenic waterfront is a favorite among visitors for its park and promenade with sweeping views of the marsh which stretches towards the horizon. Unfortunately, we missed strolling there at sunset when the skies glow with colors of gold and pink and shrimp boats drift quietly by.
We rented a lovely and very old AIRBNB in a residential neighborhood that was just a short drive from downtown, which served as a comfortable base for our overnight stay.
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A lovely old rental was our base camp.
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In the afternoon, we explored Bay Street, in the heart of downtown, where boutique shopping, waterfront dining, coffee shops and galleries line the street. Boat excursions and kayaking trips were available, but we opted to save those for another visit, given the short length of our stay.
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| The John Mark Verdier House built in 1804. It now serves as a house museum. |
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| Old Bay Marketplace, an artisan and specialty market. |
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| Rightside Design, Gallery and Gift Shop |
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| I loved so much in this little shop that sold beautiful glass art. |
One shop in particular caught my attention was RightSide Design gallery and gift shop filled with beautiful glass art that made lingering inevitable.
After an afternoon of sightseeing, we relaxed at the Old Bull Tavern, housed in a building that was once a general store in the 1800s before becoming a tavern and eventually the popular restaurant it is today.
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| The Old Bull Tavern was once a general store in the 1800s. |
Following dinner, we continued our stroll along the oft-photographed waterfront. Everything was so quiet in November, which made me consider returning during a lively season to see it at its most animated.
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A candy shop.
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Along the way, we passed the Beaufort Candy Shoppe and Superior Coffee showcasing classic Lowcountry architecture with its raised covered porches, wide overhangs, and light-colored siding--design features meant to provide shade and airflow and protect against coastal weather.
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| The Superior Coffee Shop |
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| A pair of cute rainboots as street art. |
Whimsical street art, including a pair of brightly painted rain boots, added a playful touch to the walk. As dusk approached, we passed by Luther's Rare & Well Done, a longtime casual hangout that, during busier months, draws crowds to its patio for sunset views. Nearby, Saltus River Grill's expansive patio hinted at the area's more upscale dining options, particularly known for seafood and steaks.
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| Luther's Rare and Well Done. |
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| Saltus River Grill patio. |
The Beaufort Water Festival is a big draw in the summer.
We also came across signage for The Beaufort Water Festival. Founded in 1956, the 10-day event begins in late July and is one of South Carolina's oldest festivals. It features a boat parade, live concerts, arts and crafts for kids, water races, low-country fare, fireworks and more.
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| A bust of Thomas Heywood, Jr. |
We also passed by a bust of Thomas Heywood, Jr., who was a signer of the Declaration of Independence and a Revolutionary War officer. Many places throughout South Carolina bear his name.
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| The Marina Ship's Store at Safe Harbor. |
Near the marina, we passed the Ship's Store at Safe Harbor, a stop for boaters and visitors alike.
By the end of the day it was clear that Beaufort rewards unhurried exploration and we found ourselves already discussing plans to return and discover more of what this town has to offer.
