About four years ago I wrote about my experience with water tasting for this site. Because so much time has passed since then, I decide to revisit the subject since I returned to Berkeley Springs this February to participate in the event for a third time.
For those who missed my first water-judging post, Berkeley Springs, West Virginia has been the site of the International Water Tasting event for 34 years now and is referred to as the "Olympics of Water Tasting."
This might sound ridiculous, but for those in the industry it's an important event, especially when it comes to the commercial viability of some brands, which use it as a calling card with distributors. It's also an educational tool, with live-streamed seminars broadcast throughout the day on Facebook, where experts lecture on the importance of water for human health and the health of the planet.
This year, approximately 100 waters from as far away as Japan were sent to the water tasting headquarters at the Country Inn to be rated by 11 media judges that included representatives from West Virginia Public Broadcasting and various regional and national media, including newspapers, websites, blogs and online and print magazines.
Judge School
Prior to the tasting, water judges convene at the Country Inn to learn the specifics of the job is and how to do it. The educational session is always conducted by Arthur von Wiesenberger, who's written several books on the subject, including H2O: The Guide to Quality Bottled Water. Von Wiesenberger's knowledge about water has continued to grow over the years inspired by the work he's done scouting out good water for Anheuser Busch and NASA. "They wanted water that wouldn't wreck their systems," said von Wiesenberger, who always manages to make the topic of water interesting and peppers his talks with anecdotes that always seem to elicit a laugh.
Von Wiesenberger explains that the most common tastes customers experience in tap water come from a variety of sources: chlorine, chemicals used in water treatment, iron from pipes and storage tanks and sulfur, which usually comes from warm springs. In his other book, The Taste of Water, which judges usually receive at the event, a glossary lists sometimes humorous tasting notes, like wet band-aid, wet dog, flabby and flinty. He explains how water, when left standing, can become stale. "It's vapid, lacking freshness and sometimes tastes like old bread," he said.
A Trade Show
Prior to judging, guests from around the area are invited to vote on their favorite packaging in a trade show atmosphere as water vendors display their wares.
Wilderness Mountain Water Company from Bland, Virginia is anything but bland. They won best packaging.
One year a distributor from Norway brought a water culled from a "virgin iceberg," with a price tag that raised eyebrows. I believe it was $80 a bottle, or some such ridiculous figure. I guess it would be a good gift for the person who has everything. There's a joke here about what you're doing with your money, but I'll refrain.
More packaging entries.
The Tasting
That's me on the far left sitting next to a morning show radio host who was a lot of fun.
I'm always amazed at the crowd the event attracts. Everyone from curious locals to water-industry professionals and Berkeley Springs tourism boosters attend.
Below you'll see Jill Klein Rone and von Wiesenberger addressing the audience. Rone has been with the event since its inception, taking on various roles, including publicity director, selection of judges, director, producer and emcee.
Jill Klein Rone and Arthur von Wiesenberger address the crowd.
After the glasses are all lined up in front of the judges, Rone and Wiesenberger kick off the event with a dramatic sweep of the hand as they declare, "Let the Waters Flow."
One by one, eleven media members worked our way through about 100 waters, representing five continents. That included humble municipal waters, along with sparkling and distilled waters. Each was rated for odor, flavor, mouth feel and aftertaste as we allotted points on an I-pad and a backup slip of paper.
At the end of the tasting, the winners were announced, and guests were permitted to approach the stage for the "water rush." This curious event enables whoever desires to rush the stage and gather up as much water as they want. (I was surprised to hear later that some even brought along coolers.)
Winners
Winning their first gold this year in the Bottled Non-Carbonated Water Category was three-time Silver Medal winner Eldorado Natural Spring Water, Eldorado Springs, CO. First time entry Piney Plains Natural Spring Water, Little Orleans, Md took Silver and Peninsula Springs Spring Water, Doveton, Victoria, Australia won Bronze. Rounding out the category was last year's Bronze Medal winner, Jano, Village-Blanchard, NB, Canada in fourth and former Gold Medal winner Theoni Natural Mineral Water, Karditsa, Greece in fifth.
"The consistency in winners from year to year with different panels of judges validates the choices," said von Wiesenberger of the blind competition. "It also speaks to the impressively high caliber of the waters entered," he adds.
Poking around Berkeley Springs
The judges usually take advantage of the time allotted the day before the event to poke around the cute, quaint, walkable town, which is known for its waters.
Berkeley Springs was once home to native Americans who used the mineral springs for healing purposes before settlers arrived. George Washington was even known to have frequented the area, forming the town of "Bath," which was the original name.
This is located at Berkely Springs Park, just a few steps away from the Country Inn.
Guests also visit the park to take advantage of the free water available there, which was a stipulation that was placed in the town's charter in 1776. To this day, people bring jugs to fill. I once ran into a couple who brought dozens of empty containers from the D.C. area.
Visitors will also find plenty of boutique shopping in the area. The Berkeley Springs Antique Mall on Fairfax Street features a large variety of items sold by dozens of dealers, from ephemera, to glassware, estate jewelry, furniture and more.
We also enjoyed browsing a candy shop called "Sweets & Shenanigans," which featured not only sweet treats, but gifts as well.
Spotted at Sweets & Shenanigans
Sodas, sweets and more at Sweets & Shenanigans
Guests can also poke around in the cute little library located downtown or take in a show at the historic Star Theater which aired its first movie way back in 1928.
The marquee at the Star Theater, which dates back to 1928.
A shop that we usually visit on our various excursions to the area is Rocks and Glass. The kindly gentleman there may even read your palm. This time he invited me back to his workshop to see some of his unfinished art.
The unfinished art.
The finished product.
We also browsed the art at the Ice House, run by the Morgan Arts Council. Located at the corner of Independence and Mercer Streets, the Ice House is a gallery showcasing the work of about 30 regional artists. We saw some very cool pieces there, including the beautiful wood objects seen below.
Good Eats
I can recommend the Naked Olive Lounge, located in downtown Berkeley Springs, for reasonably priced food. I especially enjoyed their pizza.
We've also had good food at the Country Inn where the tasting is held. Their New Year's Eve party buffet is dynamite, with great prime rib, oversized shrimp and delicious drinks.
One final place I'll recommend is Charlotte's Cafe. I purchased honey and brownies on the way out and then returned on the way back home for more brownies. It makes sense I suppose, since a pastry chef is in the kitchen.
Accommodations
In the past we've stayed at the cozy Country Inn and enjoyed it quite a bit. If you go during the winter, it's beautifully decorated for the holidays and guests can plop down into a comfortable couch to be warmed by the fire.
This time we stayed at Coolfont, which is probably beautiful in the summertime since it's located amidst a copse of trees. We had plenty of room to stretch out as you can see in the pictures.
Coolfont exterior.
The great room at Coolfont.
The bedroom at Coolfont.
The sitting room in our suite at Coolfont.
That's about it for today--hopefully this piques your interest if not about water, then about the Berkeley Springs area, which my husband and I have visited about half-a-dozen times. We're fortunate in that it's only about an hour-and-a-half away from our Central Pennsylvania home, so it's definitely worth the drive.
For a small community of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants, Berkeley Springs offers plenty to do and see for the tourist seeking a change of scenery. It's been about six weeks since I accepted the invitation to be a judge at the annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting event and I'm finally finding time to write about my visit to the area. (Those who have yet to read about this unique experience can view the details in an earlier post on this site.)
I needn't have fretted about frigid February weather. In an unexpected twist, temperatures climbed into the mid-70, and to think, just last year, the region was encased in ice just around that very same time. Known for its Waters
Berkeley Springs was once home to native Americans who first used the warm mineral springs for healing purposes before white settlers arrived. In 1776, George Washington, who was known to frequent the area, joined his friends and formed the town of Bath, now known to the world by its postal name "Berkeley Springs." Visitors have since been drawn to the waters which were said to have curative properties and were prescribed for a variety of ailments ranging from rheumatism to digestive disorders. Whether they do or not is up for debate, but the most prominent mineral is reported to be magnesium carbonate. Historians report that "taking the waters" often provided an excuse for socializing as well.
Early bathers were known to have soaked in hollowed-out pools, with privacy provided by woven brush screens. Women and men would bathe on alternate days. I must admit I was just a little disappointed to learn that "George Washington's Bath Tub," which can be seen near the west side of Berkeley Springs State Park, is merely a representation of bathing conditions at the time.
During warmer weather, children and adults alike wade in the park's pools and channels. The Bathhouse is open all year round where visitors can, for a fee, luxuriate in jacuzzis, or in a walk-in "Roman Bath" filled with 750 gallons of mineral water, which is heated to a temperature of 102 degrees.
At Berkeley Springs park where guests can soak in heated mineral water.
Guests also visit the park to help themselves to free water from public fountains housed onsite under the historic Gentleman's Spring House located next to the Old Roman Bathhouse. When we visited, we spoke with a couple who were filling up dozens of gallon jugs they had toted from Washington, DC.
A park monument dedicated to James Rumsey, who invented the steamboat, according to West Virginians,. The curious monument is a buhrstone from a local mill since Rumsey was also known to have patented several mill-related inventions.
Staying in the Heart of the Action
The Country Inn dates back to 1932 and is located next to the Berkeley Springs State Park.
The Country Inn is located in the center of town within convenient walking distance of Berkeley Springs Park and other retail and service establishments. Both rooms and suites are available and restaurants are located on site.
Sitting rooms in the Country Inn.
The Country Inn's onsight restaurant, The Morgan Tavern
House upon the Hill, Moon is Lying Still
When entering the grounds of the Berkeley Springs State Park, your eye will be drawn upwards to a castle perched atop a steep cliff above the park. The odd structure seems a bit out of place and I couldn't help but be reminded of this old song sung by the inimitable Lizard King.
The medieval-looking castle, with it's carved cross located in the center of a turret, was nothing short of intriguing and I questioned our guide, Jeanne Mozier, about it. She provided me with a few details and only later did I discover that she wrote an entire book about the place, so I made it a point to purchase it at a local gift shop.
The Berkeley Castle
In her book titled, "The Story of Berkeley Castle: What's True and What's Not," Mozier describes the structure as being built in 1885 at the directive of businessman Samual Taylor Suit. Constructed from sandstone, the castle includes 15 interior rooms and a basement "dungeon." Work was completed by 1887 and soon afterward Samuel, his third wife Rosa and their three children moved into the abode.
Taylor Suit, as he preferred to be called, possessed not only a peculiar name but also an intriguing story--details of which unfold in Mozier's book. The "railroad man/distiller" ended up marrying a total of three times during his life. His first marriage, to his bosses' daughter, ended tragically when his wife died while giving birth to a son, who also passed.
Suit eventually ended up in Manhattan where he (once again) married the daughter of a business connection. This paved his way to a seat on the New York Stock Exchange.
The couple conceived two children, of which only one survived and marriage number two sadly ended in divorce.
By 1883, Suit was ready to marry again, perhaps feeling as if the third time would be a charm. The 51-year-old businessman likely raised a few eyebrows by marrying a woman who was 30 years his junior. Rosa, too, had "connections." Her father served one term in the U.S. Congress, worked at the U.S. Treasury and also practiced law.
By 1888 however, Suit's business connections were all for naught. He succumbed to illness, leaving the 27-year-old widow with, well, pretty much everything, on the caveat that she would never remarry.
According to Mozier, "After a brief period of mourning, Rosa launched what would be a decade of glittering parties" and although she never did remarry, rumor had it that she took on a lover. The noted horseman was also heir to "Ravenswood," another "cottage" estate nearby.
The local press reported breathlessly on the young widow's extravagant parties, from the decor of the mansion to the elite invitees, to the activities therein: "There was dancing to a coronet band and then a march to the supper room at 11:30 p.m. for a bountiful repast," reads one article.
The socialite seemed to revel in her role as "talk of the town." An interesting tidbit in the book mentions a smoking habit, which was considered a scandalous practice among women of the era. "The Hotel Dunn would order her gold-tipped Malachrino cigarettes, made especially for the ladies," reports Mozier.
Rosa's over-the-top lifestyle finally caught up with her and the creditors came a calling, prompting her to change her last name to Soult at one point. She was eventually booted from the castle, after a brief period of what appears, (from information provided in the book), to be squatting, although I doubt they used that term back in the day.
Over the years, aspiring entrepreneurs attempted to run the castle as a business venture. It was used as an artists' residence, a boys' camp and a tea room. Weddings were catered there as well.
Eventually, a man by the name of Walter Bird purchased the residence and gave it a little stability, conducting daily tours for a period of 50 years. The residence was later sold at auction and bought by investors in 2000. That relationship turned out to be short-lived and it was sold again in 2002 to an out-of-towner named Andrew Gosline who got caught up in the bidding on his birthday.
It has remained uninhabited since Gosline passed away in 2014 and has been closed to the public since. Restaurants, Shops and More
Berkeley Springs is a compact little town, making it very walkable with a variety of shops and restaurants all within close proximity. A small museum situated at the far end of Berkeley Springs state park describes the area's history in a series of panels and is home to a 400-pound sandstone that was pulled from Warm Springs Ridge.
A 400-pound sandstone on display at the museum located on the grounds of Berkeley Springs State Park.
Guests will find plenty of places to browse among the many shops that line the streets. For antique lovers, the Berkeley Springs Antique Mall on Fairfax street features a large variety of items sold by dozens of dealers. Glassware, ephemera, estate jewelry, furniture and more can be found here.
Guests can even poke around the public library located downtown or take in a show at a historic old theater by the name of "The Star." Dining opportunities offer a little something for all tastes and budgets. During my visit, I enjoyed a stellar brunch prepared by Chef Devin Lucas at Tari's Cafe.
A spectacular brunch at Tari's Cafe on Washington Street
The Star Theatre has been serving the area for 89 years now.
Those looking for a quiet, laid back, inexpensive vacation will find plenty to do and see during a weekend in Berkeley Springs. My only regret is that I didn't visit this picturesque little area during the summer when everything was green and in bloom, but with temperatures soaring into the '70s in late February, who am I to complain?
For those who fear they may be bored to death with this blog entry, I'll sum it up in a nutshell so you save some time reading it if you just can't bear to continue. "There's so much more to H2O than you likely know." Have I lost you yet? I hope not because it CAN be a bit of an interesting topic, even more so if I stay out of the weeds with a brief overview of what's happening in the water world. (Oh and I do hope this isn't as boring as the movie!) To start off, I will admit that I received quite the education when I was chosen to sit with a dozen or so of my colleagues to judge approximately 75 waters at the 27th Annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting in February. Each year, about a dozen judges are selected to spend a few days in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia to learn more about the nuances of water tasting and other important information about the role the life-sustaining liquid plays in the health of our planet. So how did I manage to nab a seat on the panel you might ask? Well, it all began last year when I was put in touch with water sommelier Martin Riese for an upcoming article in the Chambersburg Public Opinion. Suggesting that this country may be ready for more water sommeliers might likely earn one the accusation of being "all wet," but for Riese, it was, (and still is), serious business.
Riese is known as the only water sommelier in the United States and has been featured widely in the media as such. The H2O expert is certified by the German Water Trade Association and at the time of the interview, had been hired by the Patina Group to create a 40-page water-tasting menu for Ray's and Stark Bar in Los Angeles. Last year, Riese participated in the water judging and granted me an interview, which, in turn, led me to event producer Jill Klein Rone. Jill learned about my blog and dining column and asked if I'd be willing to participate as a judge the following year. I was skeptical about my ability to distinguish one water from another, but am always up for a challenge, so I agreed and this February I joined other food writers, bloggers and various media personalities at the historic Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.There we spent hours sipping, scoring and comparing a variety of waters, evaluating them for clarity, taste, "mouth feel" and other attributes.
A "common room" at the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.
The Morgan Tavern at the Inn at The Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.
A view from the outside of the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, which dates back to 1932.
According to Klein Rone, the competition has grown exponentially over the years. "When the event started, it was to draw people to Berkeley Springs as part of a winter festival. We had no idea it would end up being so important in the water world." This year's theme was "Water: Beneath the Surface and Around the Globe" and water experts from around the world gathered to discuss such topics as the crisis in Flint, Michigan, infrastructure and protecting our water supply. Joining the Judges
One of my first jobs as a judge was to take part in an educational session delivered by Water Master Arthur Von Wiesenberger. Weisenberger, who grew up in Italy and describes himself as a "passionate hobbyist," flies in from Santa Barbara, California each year to share his knowledge with the panel. As a colorful personality and an endless "font" of information, he shares sometimes humorous stories, like the tale about a "rogue" judge who scored a rather odious municipal water quite high. "It reminds me of my childhood," declared the native Frenchman. During the session, Wiesenberger keyed us in on various aspects of water, from minerals, to trace elements and carbonation. "The most common tastes consumers experience in tap water come from chlorine, (from the chemicals used in water treatment), iron (from pipes, storage tanks and nature) and sulfur (usually from natural hot springs.)" He explained that bottled water has varying degrees of mineralization, which impart a range of flavor,"mouth feel" and "aftertaste sensations." The Water Master also provided us with a small compendium on the subject titled "The Taste of Water," which included a glossary of sometimes humorous tasting "notes" including "wet band-aid, wet dog, flabby and flinty." After the educational session, we began sampling some of the finest waters in the world, some coming from as far away as Greece, Norway, New Zealand and Korea. Von Wiesenberger cautioned us to be cognizant of the information he shared as we waded into the realm of the water critic.We spent the afternoon and evening examining the clarity of the water placed before us by holding wine glasses up to the light against the backdrop of stark white paper. We rolled the water around in our mouths to gauge "mouth feel" and scored the various entries according to a series of attributes, including how we felt about the taste--whether we were we "over the moon," or just "meh." To prevent palate fatigue we were supplied with an ample supply of the aptly named Carr's "water crackers," which we would nibble on here and there and then resume the process of tasting. We took several breaks for reasons you can probably guess and one final break for dinner where we socialized with our colleagues before reconvening. We tasted municipal water, purified and bottled water, both still and sparkling. Discerning degrees of difference between the various purified waters turned out to be the most challenging due to subtle nuances. The easiest waters to judge ended up being the municipal and the sparkling water, both of which had a stronger "taste." An interesting takeaway, in my opinion, is that there are far better sparkling water choices than salty Perrier. The challenge will be to find any of those brands in my town. To add to the complication, I have no idea which ones hit a home run with me since it was a "blind" competition, but now I will be actively seeking alternative brands.
The view of the "tasting" from my vantage point, along with the score sheet. One interesting fact was that an unusually large percentage of left-handers were seated at the front table.
That's me in the purple.
The pricey Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway.
A few things that surprised me about the experience. Number 1: The event drew a large audience--in fact--quite a few people observed the competition and the crowd swelled during the evening events as they watched us....taste....water. Granted, I imagine a few were family and friends of those who entered their waters in the competition, but still...Who knew that water tasting would be a spectator sport? Number two was the cost of the Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway. A display told the story of the niche water and how it makes its way to market. Harvesting glacier ice is no small feat, nor is it inexpensive.You can read more here.
During the event, the public played an active role by casting its vote on the most attractive packaging. "Winners have experienced exponential growth, others have closed major deals and almost all winners redesign their labels to display their winning medal," said founder Jeanne Mozier.
"The impact of winning this event is extraordinary for a bottler," she added.
The competition culminated with a "water rush" where the crowd rushed the stage with all manner of bags and receptacles to grab as many bottles as they could carry. Even the kids got in on the action. I must say it was an interesting, fun, educational experience and I took time the day before to explore charming and historic Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, where I learned the story of the Berkeley Castle and laid eyes on what is rub-a-dub-dubbed as "George Washington's bathtub." I'll be blogging about my time there in the next week or so. And, in case you stayed with me to the bitter end, here are the winners of the 2017 competition: http://berkeleyspringswatertasting.com/winners/
