Chambersburg in Two Days

The Old Jail, which is home to the Franklin County Historical Society.

One of my favorite things to do when the weather turns nice is to jump in the car and hit the road to explore a nearby town, so when an opportunity to visit Chambersburg arose, I was more than happy to clear the schedule for two days to get a better sense of what the area has to offer.

What is a bit odd about my trip to Chambersburg is that despite writing a weekly article for the Chambersburg Public Opinion for a period of approximately seven years, I never spent any significant time in the area.

Oh sure, I managed to get there for a few major annual events like Icefest, which I've written about many times, and the re-creation of the Burning of Chambersburg (which I highly recommend), but taking a leisurely poke around wasn't in the cards for various reasons, that is, until recently.

For those needing a little background, the Borough of Chambersburg is located approximately 13 miles north of Maryland and is home to approximately 20,000 residents. The area is known for its rich history and more importantly its resilience after the entire town was burned down and forced to rebuild back in the 1800s.

Exploring Downtown
The walkable downtown has many shopping opportunities, but first, it may be helpful to know the parking logistics. Several lots are conveniently located around town, but most meters still take quarters, even though they appear to be modern, with kiosks and a central location for paying. You won't find me complaining about the cost, however. It's not often you have the opportunity to park in a downtown area for a mere 25 cents an hour.

Shops, Restaurants and More
When I pulled into the downtown area, not only did the mural located at 33 N. Main Street catch my eye, but I also learned that the adjacent lot provided parking that is convenient to nearby restaurants and shops at the aforementioned bargain of 25 cents an hour.

A Chambersburg Community Art Project led by Isaiah Zagar

Later research revealed that the mosaic was the result of a community art project led by Philadelphia-based mosaic mural artist Isaiah Zagar--the same individual who was responsible for creating Philadelphia's Magic Gardens, a destination I've yet to visit.

While downtown, I made it a point to stop in one shop in particular. Olympia Candy Kitchen has been a mainstay in the Chambersburg area since 1903 and various musicians I'd interviewed throughout the years mentioned visiting it while performing at the nearby historic Capitol Theatre.

The business, which began as a soda fountain and candy store, has lasted through the Great Depression and World War II. They've modernized their production equipment over the years but have maintained the old-fashioned decor which harkens back to a simpler time and features hanging gas lights and Tiffany lamps.

The Old Jail

After exploring downtown, I headed out to the Franklin County Historical Society for a tour of "The Old Jail." Built in 1818, the jail was one of the few structures that survived the burning of Chambersburg by Confederate forces in 1864.

Wagaman's Pharmacy recreated in the Old Jail. The business was run by a father/son team from 1886 to 1966 and was located at 49 N. Main Street. On display are original drugs and equipment.

These vessels used to hang in the window of pharmacies. A red color warned of a disease outbreak.

Used as a prison for 150 years, the jail is enclosed by a 20-foot high limestone wall and has housed numerous prisoners throughout the years. Docents share their stories and invite guests to inspect the cellar, which contains five-domed dungeons complete with rings in the walls and floors used for shackling prisoners.

Guides also tell the tale of Louisa Brand, who wrapped herself in a flag in a successful effort to spare her house from being burned to the ground.  The flag is displayed in a glass case in the jail. Another building of note that was spared the burning was the Masonic Lodge located at 74 South Second Street due to the intervention of a high-ranking Confederate Officer, who also happened to be a Freemason.

Louisa Brand wrapped herself in a flag so the Confederate troops would spare her home. She also brandished a revolver...

Dungeon area of the jail. 

Door opens to a cell in the older part of the jail. 

Close up of the lock to the front door of the jail.

Cell blocks in the newer part of the jail. 

Cell interior

The jail yard with gallows. 
Dungeon in the jail. 

I found it quite humorous that one apparent recidivist inscribed this on the walls of the jail. As a matter of fact, I thought him to be quite clever. Only later did I learn that his "poetry" was borrowed from an old folk song.

Old folk song penned by prisoner.

The Story of Escape Artist Merle Unger

One prisoner, who gained a bit of notoriety for his skill as an escape artist, was Merle Unger, whose crimes initially included things like car theft, breaking and entering and joyriding. It was said that he would scale the wall at night to carouse. The jig was up when he was caught playing bingo by a Deputy who, also there trying his luck, spotted him from across the room. In 1975, Unger attempted to "get gone for good." He scaled the limestone wall and escaped to York, Pennsylvania. One wonders what old Merle was thinking when he wrote a letter to his girlfriend in jail and scrawled his return address on the front of the envelope! Needless to say, Merle was recaptured. That particular incarceration lasted a whole three hours. Several months later a cot was made up again for him when he was caught robbing a Carlisle ice cream store.

I learned more about Unger quite by accident.  During my jail tour, I noticed that a staff member seemed to be making progress with a book. The bright yellow paperback, riddled with bullet hole graphics, was splayed right-side up on a desk with the front and back cover showing. Intrigued, I inspected further, The title read, "American Berserk, A Cub Reporter, a Small-Town Daily, the Schizo '70s." Well, that appeared to be right up my alley, so immediately after the tour, I visited Northwood Books on North Main in a quest to locate the novel. I strolled around for a bit until I stumbled into a back room where the author was reading from the very book I was seeking, so of course I nabbed an autographed copy.

The fun part about discovering the book was that the author Bill Morris worked as a staffer at the Chambersburg Public Opinion, the very same paper for which I wrote so many articles as a freelancer. Learn more about Merle Unger, the escape artist and his ultimate fate in Morris' book, which can be found here.

A Victorian Bed and Breakfast

The Craig Victorian

During my visit, I spent a delightful two days in a spacious room in a beautiful old Mansion called the "Craig Victorian," located near Wilson College.The mansion features eight comfortable guest rooms and the woodwork inside is positively stunning. My room located on the third floor was spacious, complete with an adorable little writing table in the turret overlooking the street and I would be remiss if I didn't mention the quiche, which ranks up there among the best I've ever eaten.

The first floor of the Craig Victorian.

A glimpse inside my boudoir. I let the family cat in, which was likely against the rules. 

A sitting room inside the Craig Victorian. Note the little girl on the left. She has had quite enough of me canoodling with her cat Jasper.

A natural "sculpture" in front of nearby Wilson College.

A cheesy, delicious quiche served at the Craig Victorian Bed and Breakfast.

Brewery Suggestions
If you're a craft beer enthusiast, consider visiting Roy Pitz located at 140 North Third Street for a laid-back lunch and one of their award-winning beers, all of which are crafted on site in the basement of the repurposed three-story brick warehouse, which dates back to the 1900s.

Outside of Roy Pitz Brewery

The business is run by Chambersburg natives Ryan Richards and Jesse Rotz who joined forces to forge a business partnership. They opened the brewpub in Chambersburg in 2008 and have, to date, amassed 23 World Beer Championship medals. They most recently expanded into the Philadelphia area in May of 2017.

Inside Roy Pitz

If you're with a group and visiting Chambersburg sometime between Thursday and Sunday, the Gearhouse Brewing Company is a fun, spacious adult retreat, which serves beer crafted on site and small plates for sharing. Customers can wrap up a busy work week by gathering at the bar, retiring to adjacent rooms to play board games, engage in a competitive game of air hockey, or simply lounge around with libations on comfy couches.

The business opened in January and is the culmination of a project undertaken by six Chambersburg natives whose passion is beer and it shows. Follow their Facebook page throughout the year to learn about upcoming events like beer dinners and live music.

Inside GearHouse Brewing Co.

These few idea should give you a start on making the most of a short visit to Chambersburg--a town that marries history with modernity and offers a little something for everyone.

Savoring the Flavor of Miami

South Beach is colorful and welcoming

In my neck of the woods it's pouring outside and the weekend looks to be a total washout as well. It's times like these when I become ambitious about updating my blog since my outside plans have been scuttled and it's well past time anyway.

As I reflect on this cloudy, rainy day, my thoughts are transported back to the beautiful weather we experienced while visiting Miami and since I've never written about the area for Cheeseplates and Room Service, I thought it might be a good time to do so.

Seeing the Sights

I've mentioned before that the best way to obtain an overall feel for an area is to start with a Big Bus Tour. One-day passes will set you back approximately $40 and you'll learn a lot in a relatively short amount of time, which will enable you to return to your favorite places later.

Last year when I visited the area, I spent the first day on the bus, learning about the history and culture of the area from a knowledgeable guide who not only pointed out landmarks, but also provided us the backstory on many of them. Hopping on and off on a whim was a breeze, due to a steady circulation schedule that ran from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Shooting pictures is easier from the upper tier, but take heed to apply sunscreen, or you're likely to get a nasty burn in the blazing Miami sun.

The Miami Big Bus Tours are separated into three categories: The Beach Loop, the City Loop and the Uptown Loop and the vehicles are color-coded so you can easily discern which bus to catch, depending on where you would like to go.

The Beach Loop

The Beach Loop transports passengers across the MacArthur Causeway to South Beach, where they can take in a view of the colorful, carefully tended art deco hotels that are prevalent along the bustling Ocean Drive.

Ocean Drive is also lined with restaurants, all competing against each other and vying for your business. Expect employees to approach you often along the way. The formula usually involves menu thrusting and questions on why you aren't interested in dining at a particular establishment. At one point, I decided to walk in the street to avoid the tiresome ritual.

Despite that minor issue, Ocean Drive is a fun, party-central basecamp if your bag is sitting outside and watching the world go by while consuming copious amounts of alcohol. Tourists gather from around the world to eat, drink and be merry on the famous commercial stretch of land and there are more than a few opportunities to "get your drink on."

Sweet and sugary drinks are the rage here and are traditionally served in fish bowl-sized vessels featuring two upside-down Coronas. In my quest for a less sugary drink, I fell in love with the Caprihena and I do wish more bartenders would serve them where I live.

Good luck finding a place that will serve you a normal-sized drink however. No matter what time of day you happen to visit the area, you're guaranteed to get a vat of alcohol, with the accordant calories, but hey, when you're on vacation, you're on vacation. Plenty of happy people spend hours on Ocean Drive bar hopping and having an overall great time. One girl staggered up to me at the end of the night and told me she was a psychic and determined that I had "the gift, too." Did I mention they make the drinks strong on Ocean Drive?

Monster Drinks are standard on Ocean Drive

If you're lucky enough to nab a hotel room on Ocean Drive, you'll have easy access to the nearby beach located directly across the street where many spend hours sunbathing, swimming and people watching.

The old Versace mansion on Ocean Drive is now operating as The Villa Casa Casuarina Hotel. 

At one point, we decided to escape the crowd on Ocean Drive and take a quiet walk on Collins Avenue to seek out a place to eat. When spotted the words"Quality Meats," on the side of a hotel, we were more than a little intrigued and took turns guessing what might be inside--a grocery store, a butcher shop, a deli?  We finally decided to check it out and were surprised to discover that it was a full-service restaurant featuring dishes like filet, duck and sirloin, so we opted to give it a try and dine al fresco on the patio. We were both quite happy with our entrees and delighted that we managed to stumble onto the place.

Filet, done three ways at Quality Meats in Miami.

If you choose to dine on the terrace, be sure to check out the bar's focal point--a meat-hook chandelier.

The City Loop

Peacocks roam Coconut Grove.

Coconut Grove Elementary School 

One of the dresses displayed in a boutique window.

The City Loop takes riders to Coconut Grove, one of the oldest, continuously inhabited areas of Miami. The Grove offers plenty of shopping opportunities, from open-air malls to boutiques. Disembark at Cocowalk and you'll find men's and women's fashions, jewelry, gifts, accessories and more. Bistros, restaurants, and bars are open until 3 a.m. in this area and attract many area college students from the University of Miami.

I suppose we didn't venture far enough to see any of the much-touted peacocks, which were once celebrated, as seen in the statue above. When I began writing this blog today, I decided to learn more about the peacock phenomenon and discovered that they appear to be wearing out their welcome. You can click here to read the story on how locals are no longer enraptured with the beautiful birds. I'll provide a snippet from the article dated July, 2016: "They're beautiful animals, and in the beginning, they're nice," Coconut Grove resident Danny Mugnai says. And then comes the but: "But they really are a nuisance, and they're going to get over-populated if they're not already. They yell at all times of the day, they go on cars and scratch the roofs. There was a guy who had a Ferrari and they scratched the whole car." According to the article, there's a lot of untoward PDA occurring as well, which has the residents in a bit of a flutter with plenty of peacock pique. The bucolic Coconut Grove has been more fowl than fair lately and that's not setting well with the residents. It reminds me of the chicken predicament in Key West.

But enough with the peacock problems--on to the City Loop where riders have the opportunity to view one of the first planned communities. Coral Gables, famous for its strict zoning ordinances and its Mediterranean-style architecture, is known as "City Beautiful" and is home to the University of Miami. Disembarking at the Village of Merrick Park is a must if you enjoy restaurants and upscale shops like Neiman Marcus, Jimmy Choo, Burberry, Nordstrom and Gucci, to name just a few.

At the end of the city loop is "Little Havana," and those who purchase a 48-hour "Big Bus" ticket can take advantage of a free, one-hour walking tour of the area to learn a brief history of how the Cuban people came to settle in the area and the changes that have taken place over the years.

The Uptown Loop

Art adorns warehouses in Miami's uptown loop

The most interesting loop, in my opinion, is the Uptown Loop, which takes tourists to Wynwood, Midtown, Historic Overtown and the Design District where a plethora of low-rise warehouses have been converted into art galleries, restaurants and cafes. Those visiting on the second Saturday of the month can join a community-wide Art & Design night held from 7-10 p.m. where galleries and design showroom owners welcome the general public with music and refreshments.

Warehouses in the Design District feature art by local artists.

Sampling Local Cuisine
Before making reservations at area dining establishments, you might want to first take advantage of a culinary tour. Miami Culinary Tours offers excursions into Little Havana, South Beach, Wynwood and Miami City.

The 2.5-hour tours include several stops designed to give visitors an overview of the area and its cuisine. "For example, we cover the art deco district, how it got started, who preserved it in the 1980s and the events that changed Miami altogether," said tour founder Grace Della.

Guests can time their walk to coincide with either the lunch, or the dinner hour. "We stop at places ranging from five-star, to mom-and-pop places where they serve amazing food at a fraction of the price," said Della.

No Shortage of Places to Stay

Hilton Grand Vacations at McAlpin Ocean-Plaza 

The Penguin Hotel is located on Ocean Drive

Miami's tourism industry is booming and, as such, there is no dearth of places to stay. Because we wanted to stay in the heart of the action, we chose the Hotel Leslie on the bustling Ocean Drive.

The Hotel Leslie on Ocean Drive

On our Big Bus Tour, we learned that the Fontainebleau on Collins Avenue is one of the most popular destinations for the well-heeled.

The famous  Fontainebleau in Miami

"The Fontainebleau is the largest resort in Miami, with 1,500 hotel rooms, five restaurants and one of the top-grossing nightclubs in the world called LIV. It's the place to be and be seen," said Kristina D'Amico, an area hospitality consultant.

Walking off the street and peeking inside isn't an option, however and the cover charge alone will set you back between $40 and $100, depending on the night's entertainment. Even if you are willing to shell out the coin for the cover, you may not gain entrance, according to D'Amico. "It depends on who is manning the door," she said.

Another upscale lodging option also located on Collins Avenue is EDITION. Located on a 3.5-acre enclave, the property stretches from Collins Avenue to the shoreline and bills itself as a "unique, world-class urban resort," offering many amenities.

Those interested in a more affordable stay can't go wrong perusing the options at Airbnb, where rooms, apartments and houses are offered to appeal to a wide variety of budgets.

These are just a few suggestions to take advantage of everything Miami has to offer. Those who are interested in booking a room on Ocean Drive might find it helpful to know that the crowds start small on Monday and grow larger as the weekend approaches.

Because there is so much to do and see in Miami, I recommend a minimum of five nights to take in the entire experience without feeling rushed. And most importantly, be sure to pack the sunscreen!

Poking around the Historic Little Town of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia

The Gazebo in Berkeley Springs Park

For a small community of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants, Berkeley Springs offers plenty to do and see for the tourist seeking a change of scenery. It's  been about six weeks since I accepted the invitation to be a judge at the annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting event and I'm finally finding time to write about my visit to the area. (Those who have yet to read about this unique experience can view the details in an earlier post on this site.)

I needn't have fretted about frigid February weather. In an unexpected twist, temperatures climbed into the mid-70, and to think, just last year, the region was encased in ice just around that very same time.

Known for its Waters

Berkeley Springs was once home to native Americans who first used the warm mineral springs for healing purposes before white settlers arrived. In 1776, George Washington, who was known to frequent the area, joined his friends and formed the town of Bath, now known to the world by its postal name "Berkeley Springs." Visitors have since been drawn to the waters which were said to have curative properties and were prescribed for a variety of ailments ranging from rheumatism to digestive disorders. Whether they do or not is up for debate, but the most prominent mineral is reported to be magnesium carbonate. Historians report that "taking the waters" often provided an excuse for socializing as well.

Early bathers were known to have soaked in hollowed-out pools, with privacy provided by woven brush screens. Women and men would bathe on alternate days. I must admit I was just a little disappointed to learn that "George Washington's Bath Tub," which can be seen near the west side of Berkeley Springs State Park, is merely a representation of bathing conditions at the time.

During warmer weather, children and adults alike wade in the park's pools and channels. The Bathhouse is open all year round where visitors can, for a fee, luxuriate in jacuzzis, or in a walk-in "Roman Bath" filled with 750 gallons of mineral water, which is heated to a temperature of 102 degrees.

At Berkeley Springs park where guests can soak in heated mineral water.

Guests also visit the park to help themselves to free water from public fountains housed onsite under the historic Gentleman's Spring House located next to the Old Roman Bathhouse. When we visited, we spoke with a couple who were filling up dozens of gallon jugs they had toted from Washington, DC.

A park monument dedicated to James Rumsey, who invented the steamboat, according to West Virginians,. The curious monument is a buhrstone from a local mill since Rumsey was also known to have patented several mill-related inventions.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

The Country Inn dates back to 1932 and is located next to the Berkeley Springs State Park.

The Country Inn is located in the center of town within convenient walking distance of Berkeley Springs Park and other retail and service establishments. Both rooms and suites are available and restaurants are located on site.

Sitting rooms in the Country Inn.

The Country Inn's onsight restaurant, The Morgan Tavern

House upon the Hill, Moon is Lying Still
When entering the grounds of the Berkeley Springs State Park, your eye will be drawn upwards to a castle perched atop a steep cliff above the park. The odd structure seems a bit out of place and I couldn't help but be reminded of this old song sung by the inimitable Lizard King.

The medieval-looking castle, with it's carved cross located in the center of a turret, was nothing short of intriguing and I questioned our guide, Jeanne Mozier, about it. She provided me with a few details and only later did I discover that she wrote an entire book about the place, so I made it a point to purchase it at a local gift shop.

The Berkeley Castle

In her book titled, "The Story of Berkeley Castle: What's True and What's Not," Mozier describes the structure as being built in 1885 at the directive of businessman Samual Taylor Suit. Constructed from sandstone, the castle includes 15 interior rooms and a basement "dungeon." Work was completed by 1887 and soon afterward Samuel, his third wife Rosa and their three children moved into the abode.

Taylor Suit, as he preferred to be called, possessed not only a peculiar name but also an intriguing story--details of which unfold in Mozier's book. The "railroad man/distiller" ended up marrying a total of three times during his life. His first marriage, to his bosses' daughter, ended tragically when his wife died while giving birth to a son, who also passed.

Suit eventually ended up in Manhattan where he (once again) married the daughter of a business connection. This paved his way to a seat on the New York Stock Exchange.

The couple conceived two children, of which only one survived and marriage number two sadly ended in divorce.

By 1883, Suit was ready to marry again, perhaps feeling as if the third time would be a charm. The 51-year-old businessman likely raised a few eyebrows by marrying a woman who was 30 years his junior. Rosa, too, had "connections." Her father served one term in the U.S. Congress, worked at the U.S. Treasury and also practiced law.

By 1888 however, Suit's business connections were all for naught. He succumbed to illness, leaving the 27-year-old widow with, well, pretty much everything, on the caveat that she would never remarry.

According to Mozier, "After a brief period of mourning, Rosa launched what would be a decade of glittering parties" and although she never did remarry, rumor had it that she took on a lover. The noted horseman was also heir to "Ravenswood," another "cottage" estate nearby.

The local press reported breathlessly on the young widow's extravagant parties, from the decor of the mansion to the elite invitees, to the activities therein: "There was dancing to a coronet band and then a march to the supper room at 11:30 p.m. for a bountiful repast," reads one article.

The socialite seemed to revel in her role as "talk of the town." An interesting tidbit in the book mentions a smoking habit, which was considered a scandalous practice among women of the era. "The Hotel Dunn would order her gold-tipped Malachrino cigarettes, made especially for the ladies," reports Mozier.

Rosa's over-the-top lifestyle finally caught up with her and the creditors came a calling, prompting her to change her last name to Soult at one point. She was eventually booted from the castle, after a brief period of what appears, (from information provided in the book), to be squatting, although I doubt they used that term back in the day.

Over the years, aspiring entrepreneurs attempted to run the castle as a business venture. It was used as an artists' residence, a boys' camp and a tea room. Weddings were catered there as well.

Eventually, a man by the name of Walter Bird purchased the residence and gave it a little stability, conducting daily tours for a period of 50 years. The residence was later sold at auction and bought by investors in 2000. That relationship turned out to be short-lived and it was sold again in 2002 to an out-of-towner named Andrew Gosline who got caught up in the bidding on his birthday.

It has remained uninhabited since Gosline passed away in 2014 and has been closed to the public since.

Restaurants, Shops and More

Berkeley Springs is a compact little town, making it very walkable with a variety of shops and restaurants all within close proximity. A small museum situated at the far end of Berkeley Springs state park describes the area's history in a series of panels and is home to a 400-pound sandstone that was pulled from Warm Springs Ridge.

A 400-pound sandstone on display at the museum located on the grounds of Berkeley Springs State Park.

Guests will find plenty of places to browse among the many shops that line the streets. For antique lovers, the Berkeley Springs Antique Mall on Fairfax street features a large variety of items sold by dozens of dealers. Glassware, ephemera, estate jewelry, furniture and more can be found here.
Guests can even poke around the public library located downtown or take in a show at a historic old theater by the name of "The Star." Dining opportunities offer a little something for all tastes and budgets. During my visit, I enjoyed a stellar brunch prepared by Chef Devin Lucas at Tari's Cafe.

A spectacular brunch at Tari's Cafe on Washington Street

The Star Theatre has been serving the area for 89 years now.

The Naked Olive is one of the many shops that line the street.

The Morgan County Public Library located in Berkeley Springs

Those looking for a quiet, laid back, inexpensive vacation will find plenty to do and see during a weekend in Berkeley Springs. My only regret is that I didn't visit this picturesque little area during the summer when everything was green and in bloom, but with temperatures soaring into the '70s in late February, who am I to complain?