Tuesday, December 3, 2019

Ease that Holiday Hangover with a Peaceful Getaway to Huntingdon, Pa


This is a busy time of year for most of us and if you're like me, you breathe a sigh of relief when all the work is done and you're looking forward to boring January when the schedule is suddenly free and there's virtually nothing to do.

Rather than go from 100 to zero, you may want to plan a post-holiday trip to a place where the pace of life is slow, allowing you plenty of time to tour local museums, visit a few restaurants and curl up with a book near a fireplace at the end of the day.

What I dislike most about Pennsylvania winters is the stress of traveling on treacherous roads, so when I learned that I could take the train from Harrisburg to Huntingdon, I was even more excited to check out the area. I left on a Monday and was delighted to discover that I had two seats to myself. It turned out that the train was only half full. Later on it snowed during my trip! I can't imagine how stressful that would have been if I had been driving.  I learned later there were accidents along the way. Not only was I safe, warm and cozy, but I was also able to grab a bite for lunch aboard the dining car.

My experience in Huntingdon had been limited to camping at Raystown Lake many moons ago with friends, so I was glad to have the opportunity to see more of the town during this visit.

barn and clouds
A scene taken on the train ride from Harrisburg to Huntingdon before the snow started. 
shelter
The cozy Huntingdon Railroad Station is like stepping back in time.

First Stop: The Station General Store
store
The Station General Store carries antiques, gifts, furniture and collectibles.
The Station General store operates in a colorful and historic former train station located just steps from where Amtrak drops off passengers traveling to Huntingdon. There you'll find 3,500 square feet of antiques, collectibles, furniture and gifts at reasonable prices.

A Visit to the Oldest Automobile Museum in Pennsylvania
auto museum

The Swigart Museum, located at 12031 William Penn Highway, celebrates its centennial anniversary in 2020. The non-profit is dedicated to preserving the history of the automobile in America.

The story began simply enough when Huntingdon native W. Emmert Swigart began collecting antique cars. Emmert also founded an insurance company called Swigart Associates, which was located across from the post office in the center of town and on that property was a carriage house, which he transformed into a museum. "He had a collection of books, memorabilia, all kinds of things, including four, or five cars," said Marge Cutright, Executive Director. When the insurance company needed the carriage house as the business grew, Emmert purchased the current property where the collection is now housed. When W. Emmert died in 1949, William E. Swigart, Jr. inherited the collection and continued to expand it. William Swigart, Jr. passed in July of 2000, but his museum lives on with Cutright at the helm. "He made it a 501(c) 3 before he passed, so now we rely on public support to keep the doors open," she explains.

The License Plate Collection

The 9,100 square foot museum contains a collection of license plates that William accrued through years of collecting. According to Cutright, he would send his employees to an annual meet in Hershey to buy, sell and trade license plates. The junior Swigart, once again, has his father to thank for starting the collection. According to Cutright, there are hundreds of people who are license plate enthusiasts, many of whom belong to a professional organization called the Automobile License Plate Collector's Association. "During WWII, they were collecting metal for the war effort, but the government would allow collectors to keep the metal plates if they were part of a museum, so some of them would give them to W. Emmert in order to save their collection," said Cutright, offering a bit of license plate trivia: "They didn't start to make license plates until the 1900s, and some of them were made of soybeans, but the animals ate them, so they went to leather, or porcelain and eventually used metal," said Cutright. One of the most notable license plates in the Swigart collection is a license plate from FDR's limo when he was president. "We found a newspaper clipping with a picture of FDR and the license plate is visible in the picture," she said.

The Car Collection
1905 Rambler
Cars are arranged in chronological order.
cars

Swigart's collection totals 125 cars which are rotated annually so that visitors can see something different if they return the following year. Ryan Kolar, who grew up in Johnstown, was a yearly visitor as a child. "My father was a collector and my grandfather was a car builder and a collector as well. We'd stop every year on our way to the big car show in Carlisle to see not only the car collection, but the collection of license plates and emblems" said Kolar, whose only complaint is that he couldn't see the two Tuckers at the same time. Kolar, like Swigart, inherited a collection, albeit much smaller. "I have 11 cars, six of which I purchased on my own," he said.

Cutright said that the "Tin Goose"prototype of the first Tucker made in 1947 is currently on display off property, so if Kolar visited today he'd only see the 1948 Tucker. "A total of 51 were made. We have number 13," said Cutright.
1948 Tucker
A 1948 Tucker is one of two in the collection that is currently on display.
Tucker number 13

Cutright said that the museum exists to show how cars have developed and improved over the years. "Steering wheels have changed from a tiller wheel, similar to a joystick, to what we see today. "They evolved from tiller to round," she said, adding that early cars also lacked windshields. "The first cars didn't even have doors," she said.

Antique auto
A 1919 Pierce-Arrow.
One of the cars that remains in the museum at all times, according to Cutright, is the 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile, which was sold by the pound, weighed 650 pounds and cost $650.

Visitors are often surprised that electric cars existed "back in the day." Currently on display is a 1912 Detroit Electric. The company built 13,000 cars between 1907 and 1939. Notable folks who owned them were Lizzie Borden, Thomas Edison, Mamie Eisenhower and John D. Rockefeller, Jr.

Early electric car
A 1912 Detroit Electric car.
The museum also has several one-of-a-kind cars in its collection. One is a 1920 Carroll made in Lorraine, Ohio. "Charles Carroll manufactured 50 and kept one for himself," said Cutright, adding that there is only one that wasn't destroyed due to being left out in the elements. "The family didn't realize that there was still one left that belonged to Carroll himself and they came out to see it."


Carroll automobile
A rare 1920 Carroll. Only 50 were made, and this is the only known survivor.
Another one-of-a-kind, according to Cutright, is a 1916 Scripps-Booth which belonged to a family in Boston by the name of Sears (not the Sears of retail fame). The family was quite wealthy and their daughter Eleanora was a tennis champion and the great, great granddaughter of Thomas Jefferson. She had cars made to her specifications every few years, with decorative accessories like pearl door handles on the inside, for instance. "She was a tennis pro, wore pantaloons, played polo on horseback and was a real character. She would drive around town at very high speeds until the head of the police department in Boston took her to court. Her attorney told her not to say a word during the hearing to avoid jail. She obeyed his directions and narrowly escaped jail, but it didn't stop her from speeding in the future," said Cutright.
Antique auto
A 1916 Scripps-Booth that belonged to the great, great granddaughter of Thomas Jefferson.
One of the most beautiful cars on display is a 1936 Duesenberg, which was bid on by none other than Jay Leno. The story is that Leno bid against Swigart and eventually gave up. In his frustration, he reported that some "hayseed" from Pennsylvania ended up with the car. Mr. Swigart was said to have invited Leno out to his museum, but Leno declined.
Duesenberg
The 1936 Duesenberg that frustrated Jay Leno.
The museum touts another Duesenberg as well--a 1929 model, which is taken on tours. "Every year there is something called the Glidden Tour, which is to test the endurance of early cars dated prior to 1947. Each year we go to a different location. Last year it was Hilton Head and we drive the cars 100 miles a day, then return to the hotel and go in a different direction," said Cutright who has thus far been on 11 tours. "I really enjoy them," she said.
Cadillac Eldorado
A 1961 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertible
Cutright said that she started out as William Swigart's secretary and didn't care much about cars until she started learning more and now she has the bug. "My husband owns a 1924 Nash and we tour with that sometimes. Once you get involved in it, it's fascinating. It makes people smile and you even get a few 'thumbs up' as you go," she said.

The William E. Swigart Automobile Museum is open daily from Memorial Day weekend through the end of October and for groups throughout the year upon request.


Walk Down Memory Lane at the Isett Heritage Museum
museum
The Isett Heritage Museum houses 40,000 items in three buildings.
The sprawling Isett Heritage Museum is located about two miles east of Huntingdon Borough on Stone Creek Ridge Road. There you'll find three buildings which house a staggering collection of items collected by Melvin Isett. Isett was born in 1922 and spent his lifetime collecting antiques and memorabilia. In 2001, he opened his collection to the public in a renovated barn. By 2004, he expanded the collection to include a 10,000 square foot building. By 2008, he added another 10,000 square foot building to the mix. If you visit, be prepared to be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of items that the prolific collector has acquired over the years.

The tour begins in the renovated barn with antiques that date back to the 1800s. In the barn, you'll see an impressive collection of radios from tube radios, to vintage floor models, crystal set radios, Victrolas and more contemporary items like cassette, eight track and cd players. A dairy display includes a restaurant booth and ice cream fountain from Fouse's Dairy where Isett was employed as a teen and a printing exhibit contains two 1870 printing presses. A display located next to the printing press includes a variety of tin items created in local tin shops that date back to the 1800s.
milk bottle
An artifact from Fouse's dairy in Marklesburg where Isett worked as a teen.
Building two is comprised of three sections, starting with formal parlors from the 1800s filled with fainting couches and antiques. Section two features a music room with pianos, pump organs, musical instruments, sheet music and jukeboxes.
antiques
Some of the many antiques on display at the Isett Heritage Museum.

antique piano rolls
Player piano rolls. 

toy
A pedal car on display.

Section three includes antique cars, pedal cars, soap box derby cars and a large exhibit dedicated to items used for communication, like vintage typewriters, telephones, dictaphones and hand-written journals dating back to the 1800s. In this section, Isett displays cable equipment from the Huntingdon TV Cable Company, which he founded in 1960.

Items in the third building include a collection of cameras from 1800's to the present day, courtesy of curator Vince Brown, who worked at Kodak in New York for many years.
vintage camera
Chinese View Camera circa 1970.

Also on display are military items, uniforms, letters, weapons and maps ranging from the Civil War to the present.
memorabilia
Items belonging to Brice Blair, Captain, Company 1 of the 149th Regiment of Pennsylvania Volunteers, 1882-1884.
If I had to compare this unique collection to any other places I've visited, I suppose I can say that it is a bit reminiscent of  the Mercer Museum in Doylestown and The Great American Treasure Tour in Oakes, Pa.

If you find what you've read here intriguing, you can take a tour yourself. Winter hours are Monday through Friday, 8-5, with weekend tours by appointment.

(Many thanks to the Isett Heritage Museum for the photos they provided for this blog.)

Hunkering Down in Unique Accommodations
There's no better time to hunker down than in the winter and there are plenty of unique accommodations in the area. During my visit, I had the opportunity to view a few independently owned properties, perfect for a peaceful getaway.

Rustic Ridge Retreat
The Rustic Ridge Retreat is a new property built in 2018 high atop a hill, with beautiful vistas. Local residents Chris and Jackie Confer built the cabin as a retreat, hence the name. The house is perfect for one or two families to enjoy a quiet getaway, while at the same time being just minutes away from Huntingdon.
parlor
The living room of the Rustic Ridge Retreat.
kitchen
The kitchen at the Rustic Ridge Retreat.

room

bedroom
A bedroom in the Rustic Ridge Retreat.

sitting area
A sitting area at the top of the stairs.
The cabin is equipped with four tvs and children often gather in the lower level, which is is set up for watching movies, gaming and foosball. Wifi is free and covers all areas, including the outside. If weather permits, there is a pavilion outside equipped with a gas grill, along with a fire pit to cook marshmallows over a campfire.

The Edgewater Inn
Inn
The Edgewater Inn dates back to 1762.
If you enjoy historic structures, look no farther than the Edgewater Inn. The original farmhouse, which is now the living room of the Edgewater Inn, was built in 1762 and belonged to John Penn, the grandson of William Penn. The building was originally a log homestead, and guests can view some of the original logs, which have been preserved in the Juniata room behind the bar. Today, the Inn offers dining at the Riverside Grill located on the first floor, along with overnight accommodations and a barn onsite that is used for special events and weddings.
parlor
The parlor of the Edgewater Inn is part of the original structure that dates to 1762.

parlor

Many discover that the Edgewater Inn is an excellent place to recharge, away from ubiquitous computer screens. Wifi is available in public spaces only, so you can be forgiven if you inform everyone that once you retire to your room you're essentially unplugged until the next morning when you awaken refreshed and ready to tackle the day, but first be sure to enjoy the hearty breakfast  served in the dining room that overlooks the Juniata river.
bedroom
A room at the Edgewater Inn with a river view.
Lane's Country Homestead and Pine Lodge
Lane's Country Homestead and Pine Lodge are two fully furnished homes that are great getaways for family and friends. The Country Homestead is a quaint, 18th-century farmhouse with four bedrooms and sleeps approximately 10 people.


dining room
The dining room and quaint kitchen area at Lane's Country Homestead.
The Pine Lodge is well suited for large families, family reunions, or a group of friends who want to get together and enjoy each other's company without many distractions. The house sleeps 20, has a huge dining room and is situated on 146 acres of farmland.

lodge
The exterior of Lane's Pine Lodge.

dining room
The dining room at Lane's Pine Lodge.
bedroom
A bedroom at Lane's Pine Lodge.
Fireplace Getaways
The Huntingdon Visitors' Bureau is featuring "Fireplace Getaways" this year by partnering with various lodges, some of which I've mentioned here. Those who visit as part of a group can take part in various activities, from painting, to cake decorating, morning yoga or coffee cupping. If your group would prefer a venturing experience, the Bureau has several from which to choose, whether it be a visit to the Isett Heritage Museum, the Swigart Automobile Museum, or a trip to the popular Lincoln Caverns.

If this sounds good to you, you're well on your way to making it happen. Just click on this link to begin planning your winter escape.


Wednesday, October 23, 2019

A Journey to the "Center of the Universe" in Ashland, Virginia

I recently had the opportunity to travel to the far west end of Richmond, Virginia, to an area called Short Pump, so named for a pump that was located at a tavern built by Revolutionary War veteran Robert Hyde Saunders.

The affluent area is a shopper's paradise, with shopping malls as far as the eye can see and the Hilton Richmond Short Pump Hotel & Spa, was a comfortable and convenient basecamp for exploring the small town of Ashland, located just 16 miles away. An added attraction is that the hotel was within walking distance of  Short Pump Town Center, with 140 shops and eateries. I have to offer a warning however. If you're the unrestrained sort, who is prone to tennis elbow from whipping out the Visa, you may want to bunk somewhere else. The area is full of temptations for shopaholics! I spent a few hours at the attractive outdoor mall, enjoying the day and the plethora of  stores carrying everything from clothing, to shoes, candy, gifts and so much more. Because I knew I'd be visiting plenty of independent shops in Ashland, I decided to limit my spending, although I did buy a lovely multi-colored blouse at Versona, a women's boutique that hasn't quite made it to my neck of the woods.

Small Town Charm


Inn
The Henry Clay Inn located across from the Visitor's Center.
Ashland takes its name from Henry Clay's Lexington Kentucky estate named for the Ash trees that grew on the property. The town is quite proud of its native son who was born in 1777 and went on to become a presidential candidate in 1822, 1834 and 1844. Known as the "Great Compromiser," Clay is credited for helping to delay the Civil War by about four decades.

The locals also refer to Ashland as the "Center of the Universe" because it is located smack-dab in the middle of Hanover County, although I suspect that the moniker also has a lot to do with the fact that the 7.16 square mile area is just bursting with small-town pride. The friendly residents who engaged me on my visit had nothing but great things to say about life in their small corner of the world.

A Railroad Runs Through It


mural
A mural on the side of The Caboose Restaurant.
train
A walkable small town.


train and conductor
One of many trains that rumble through the town on a regular basis.
No matter what time of day you visit, you're likely to see a train pass by since tracks run through the middle of town. The Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad initially developed the small town as a mineral springs resort, complete with a racetrack, back in the 1840s. In the aftermath of the Civil War, Ashland was left in ruins, so it was fortuitous that the Randolph-Macon College decided to move to the area shortly thereafter. The institution did much to rehabilitate Ashland and the Methodist-based private liberal arts college exists to this day, touting an enrollment of about 1,500.

First Stop--Welcome Center


train station

The Ashland Welcome Center, located in the Amtrak train station, has been recognized in Trains Magazine as one of the top 10 railfan spots in the country. Inside you'll find a small museum, plenty of pamphlets detailing things to do in the area and a friendly staff to help with any questions you might have about the town.

Small Town Shops

As you make your way around town, you'll find welcoming merchants selling everything from toys, to trains, jewelry, books, antiques, gifts and furniture.

store
Tiny Tim's Trains and Toys is just one of the independent shops in Ashland.

book store
Bell, Book and Candle carries both new and used books.
jewelry store
The friendly folks at Wagner Jewelers are always happy to help you pick out that special something.

Stopping for a Bite

There are several eateries in town if you're making a day of it. The Caboose Market and Cafe offers a selection of wine and beer, along with imported cheeses and snack meats and a seasonal menu featuring farm-to-table cuisine. Order one of the in-house made desserts to top things off, or save those calories and head on over to Sugar Fix, located near the historic Ashland Theatre.
eatery
The Caboose Market and Café offers a seasonal menu with a focus on local products.

restaurant
Inside The Caboose restaurant.
bakery
The Sugar Fix Bakery is open Tuesday through Saturday.

Sugar Fix offers brownies, cupcakes, custom cookies, candy and more. Owner Melinda Foster started out making cookies for family and friends and in 2011 the mother of six decided to open her own business and Ashland is sweeter for it.

corner restaurant
The Iron Horse Restaurant is housed in a building that is more than 100 years' old
The Iron Horse Restaurant operates out of a century-old building and is located at the corner of Railroad Avenue. The popular spot offers lunch and dinner, with a focus on southern cuisine, seafood, sandwiches, salads and steaks. The owners are quite proud of the eatery's proximity to the railroad tracks, enticing many railfans who are eager to experience one of the best vantage points to watch traffic on the busiest rail line on the East Coast.

Another laudable lunch option is "Homemades by Suzanne." I, for one, found it difficult to pass by after experiencing the alluring aromas that beckoned me to come inside, even though I had already eaten. Suzanne must know what she's doing because she was named "Best Caterer" for five years by readers of Richmond Magazine. On the menu are sandwiches, salads, soups and more to eat in, or carry out.

eatery
"Homemades by Suzanne" was named "Best Caterer" for five years by readers of Richmond Magazine.


restaurant tables
A peek inside of "Homemades by Suzanne."
A Century-Old Grocery  Store

Cross Bros. Grocery began serving the Ashland community in May of 1912, starting out as a small butcher shop and expanding to include additional offerings. By 1973, Cross Bros. had been enlarged four times before the family decided to sell it to two couples who recognized its importance to the community. In 2018, the business was sold again, this time to a group of local individuals committed to continuing the tradition of providing local meat, produce and groceries to Ashland. In addition to making upgrades to the building and re-branding the business as Ashland Meat Co. at Cross Bros., the group expanded its offerings to include beer, wine and prepared foods.
grocery
Cross Bros. Grocery, serving the community since 1912.

grocery
Ashland Meat Co. at Cross Bros. has expanded its offerings to include beer, wine and prepared foods.

A Large Library for a Small Town

The town may be small, but it touts a rather large library, as seen here, and the residents of the area have Richard Gillis to thank. "Dick" served as Mayor from 1977 to 1990 and as a member of the Pamunkey Regional Library Board of Trustees from 1971-1980. During this time he was very vocal about the need for a library in the area. Gillis was also responsible for Ashland's "Center of the Universe" moniker. He passed in 2001, but is memorialized on the building, which bears his name.
Richard Gillis, Jr. library
The Richard S. Gillis, Jr. library is located downtown.
Historic Theatre
theatre

The Ashland theatre opened its doors in 1948 with "Sitting Pretty" starring Robert Young, Maureen O'Hara and Clifton Webb. The show was preceded by a cartoon, with an entrance fee of 40 cents for adults and 14 cents for children. Like most small, independent theaters, the business saw its share of hard times in an era where entertainment choices abound and was therefore forced to shut its doors in the 1990s. When the owner donated the building to the Town of Ashland in 2013, the town united to save the landmark.  A two-year overhaul began along with a  $2.1 million capital campaign and in 2018 the theatre reopened to the public. Today the venue offers movies, musical acts, other live performances and community-building events.

Local Accommodations

The Henry Clay Inn
Inn
Porches tailor made for relaxing and watching the world go by.


Inn
The entrance area to the Henry Clay Inn.

Inn
The breakfast area of the Henry Clay Inn.

The attractive Georgian-style Inn located across from the Ashland Visitor's Center is popular with railfans and those who enjoy the laid back pace of life that Ashland offers. And it's hard to beat for convenience--guests can walk out the front door and be at the train station located just a few steps away.

The boutique hotel offers 11 guestrooms, two suites and several spacious porches perfect for relaxing, chatting with a friend, or simply watching the world go by.
inn
The second floor balcony of the Henry Clay Inn.

bedroom
A bedroom at the Henry Clay Inn.


The Tinder Guest House


bedroom
A bedroom in the Tinder Guest House.
The Tinder Guest House, located next to the Bell, Book and Candle on South Center Street, dates back to 1898, when it first operated as a pharmaceutical business.

The Game Room at the Tinder Guest House

The 2,000-foot guest house features three bedrooms and two bathrooms, a game room, an eating nook and a gathering room and is popular with families who are seeking a relaxing getaway.

Almost all of places I have mentioned are located on the "main drag,"except for the theatre and the bakery, which can be found on England Street.

I could go on about how quaint and friendly this small town is, but I'll leave it up to you to explore further. Hopefully these few tips on where to go and what to see might inspire you to do so, or, if you prefer, just reach out to the helpful staff at the Welcome Center, or any of the local merchants. I'm sure they'll be happy to assist.




Tuesday, October 15, 2019

Learning about Our 34th President at the Eisenhower National Historic Site

There's a lot to see in scenic Adam's County and I've had more than a few opportunities to visit the area since it's an easy drive from my home. I've gone on hayrides, toured the Battlefield on a Segway, taken a really great food tour , studied the Cyclorama and frequented the many restaurants and farm stands. What I've neglected to do all these years is visit the Eisenhower National Historic Site located just outside of Gettysburg.  Last week, I spent a leisurely hour touring the many rooms inside and the immediate grounds outside. We are all able to do this thanks to Ike and Mamie who gifted the property to the federal government in 1967, with the caveat that the couple could live there for the duration of their lives. Today the destination is owned and operated by the National Park Service.
Eisenhower farm
A front view of the home of Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower.
Choosing the Area

Eisenhower was born in 1890 in Denison, Texas, but became familiar with the Gettysburg area after his West Point graduating class visited the battlefield in 1915. This would be a busy time in Ike's life. He celebrated his nuptials the following year, marrying Mamie Geneva Doud and two years after that he was assigned to nearby Camp Colt, which was the first post to train soldiers to use tanks during World War I.

Ike's long army career kept him from putting down roots anywhere for years, so when he accepted a position as President of Columbia University in 1948, Mamie requested a permanent abode. Friends George and Mary Allen who lived on a farm in the area had nothing but nice things to say about the region, so the couple began their search.

By 1950, they had set their sights on what some have described as a "run-down" farm, for which they paid $44K. The fixer-upper wasn't without its charms. It was far enough off the road to retain a fair amount of privacy and fit the bill for Mamie's stipulation that the home pre-date the Civil War.

It would be years before the couple could move in, not exclusively due to the extensive renovations they undertook which would cost about $200,000, but also because Ike was named Supreme Commander Allied Forces Europe the year that they purchased the farm. The NATO position was very important to Eisenhower, who considered it the most important military job in the world, so he took leave from Columbia to fulfill his duties, part of which were to tour European capitals to convince them to bolster their defenses. In 1952, having completed what he set out to do in NATO, he stepped down and began two successful presidential runs, winning the presidency handily each time. The Eisenhowers began living in the house full time after President Kennedy's Inauguration in 1961.

Getting There

To purchase tickets to the Eisenhower National Historic Site, first visit the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitor Center, then take the shuttle bus to the Eisenhower property. There, a guide will provide background information on the Eisenhower farm before allowing entrance to the time capsule of a home, where 98 percent of the furnishings were owned by the family. Of course, today those furnishings are property of the Eisenhower National Historic Site.

The Rooms

Living Room 

Eisenhower living room
Ninety-eight percent of the furnishings in the Eisenhower house are original.

sofa
I found this tufted circular sofa quite attractive, albeit unconducive to curling up with a book.

Tabriz rug
The marble fireplace dates back to the presidency of Abraham Lincoln and was removed from the White House by President Grant in 1873.
The living room showcases gifts the couple received from friends and heads of state. They include a mother-of-pearl inlaid, black lacquer coffee table from the Republic of Korea and a silk Tabriz rug from the Shah of Iran.

The attractive marble fireplace was removed from the White House in 1873 by President Grant and was an anniversary gift from the Eisenhower White House staff. The painting of Prague above the mantel was present to General Eisenhower by its citizens at the end of World War II. According to the guide, Ike spent little time in this room, declaring it to be "too stuffy."

Entrance Hall 

foyer
Mamie asked that all visitors sign a guestbook located in the entrance hall.
Mamie's love of the color pink is evident throughout the house and I found this hanging light to be especially pretty.  This is the area where Mamie asked all visitors to sign her guest book. In the curio cabinet are Mamie's knickknacks, including a presidential plate she purchased from the nearby Stuckey's souvenir stand, along with plastic figurines of presidents and first ladies that she collected from cereal boxes.

Dining Room

dining room
A formal dining room for hosting family and friends.

If you haven't figured it out by now, the Eisenhowers were rather down-to-earth folks. According to accounts, they preferred to dine on TV trays on the porch, but when family and friends visited, they ate dinner in the formal dining room. A tea service which guests will see on display was purchased by a young Ike for Mamie on a piece-by-piece basis with money he made on poker winnings.

Master Bedroom

bedroom
Mamie's love of pink is evident in the Master Bedroom.
Mamie believed that once a woman reached the age of 50, she was entitled to do as she pleased. Due to a medical condition, she was under doctor's orders to get bed rest, three days a week. In lieu of that, she decided to stay in bed until noon each day. She took visitors here, met with staff members, wrote correspondence and performed other day-to-day activities while propped up on pillows.

During the years in which Mamie was first lady, it's said that the popularity of the color pink soared. This might be one reason why we see so many pink bathrooms in examples of mid-century modern homes and here in Mamie's own house.


bathroom
Mamie's dressing room and bath.
Mamie was said to have loved it because it was flattering. She not only decorated with it, but wore it as well. One dress which made quite a splash is the pink gown studded with pink rhinestones that she wore to the presidential inaugural ball. 

You'll see her favorite color repeated here in the master bedroom. Mamie was fond of taking a stick of wood with her favorite colors--green, pink and a cream color--on all of her military moves so that she could recreate what felt like home by rolling out her rugs and having the rooms painted in her favorite colors.

Maid's Room
bedroom
The maid's room in the original portion of the house.
This room was where Mamie's maid Rose Wood slept and worked. It, along with the kitchen and pantry, is located in the portion of the original home that was salvaged when the Eisenhowers renovated.

Guest Rooms

A few of the guest rooms at the Eisenhower abode. The most famous visitor to spend the weekend was Prime Minister Nehru of India in 1956.

guest room
The "Yellow Room."
bedroom
"The General's Room," used by Ike as a dressing room and where he'd take the occasional nap.
bedroom with chenille bedspread
Plenty of chenille spreads here, which reminded me of my grandmother, who also had amassed quite a collection over the years. This was called the "Moaney's Room" and was used by MSgt. John and Delores Moaney, the African-American couple on the household staff.


Kitchen
kitchen
Compared to many of today's modern kitchens, this kitchen is rather modest.
It's said that Eisenhower enjoyed cooking much more than Mamie. Ike, who had Pennsylvania Dutch ancestors, enjoyed making soups, stews and Pennsylvania Dutch breakfasts. He also enjoyed barbecuing outside. The person who used the kitchen the most however was Delores Moany who worked as cook and housekeeper for the couple and passed away in 2014.
sun room
The Eisenhowers' favorite room was the porch where Mamie watched tv and played cards and Ike pursued his painting hobby.
The porch was the Eisenhowers' favorite room and it's no wonder since the wall of floor-to-ceiling windows allow in so much natural light and the view isn't bad either. The full effect isn't apparent since the curtains are always pulled for preservation purposes.

Ike, who took up painting later in life, enjoying practicing his oil painting hobby here.

The Den

Ike spent many hours in his cozy den reading and playing bridge with friends. The fireplace you see here was built in. The architect designed the room to be built around the existing hearth from the former summer kitchen.
den
Ike spent hours reading here and playing bridge with friends.
 The Grounds

Upon exiting the house, guests can take a self-guided tour of the grounds and learn more about each stop by calling in to a special number which offers additional information on everything from the secret service office, to the guest house where David Eisenhower stayed one summer while working for his grandfather as a farmhand.

Because Ike loved his golf, there is also a putting green on the property, which was installed by the Professional Golfers Association.

To get a better idea of what the outside of the property looks like, I'll leave you with this short film, courtesy of Destination Gettysburg.



As we wind down the season, it's best to call to find out when tours will be held during the cooler months. You can learn more about this interesting and enduring piece of history in Pennsylvania by visiting the Eisenhower National Historic Site here.



Monday, September 23, 2019

Witnessing the Wonder of Indian Echo Caverns

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Students are frequent visitors to Indian Echo Caverns.
Located along the east bank of the Swatara Creek in Derry Township, Dauphin County, is a limestone cave that has been attracting explorers for thousands of years. Author Richard Hartwell, who wrote Indian Echo Caverns..a History, speculates that the first visitors could have been the wooly mammoths, citing a portion of the jaw of an extremely large animal that had been unearthed by a farmer in the 1850s. Hartwell quotes a writer who saw the find and described it thusly: "the teeth measure three-and-one-half, by seven-and-one-half inches and were evidently grinders of some animal of long ago, unknown to the zoological history of ancient, or modern times." Hartwell goes on to say that scientists now know that these were the teeth of the mastodon, or wooly mammoth.

Other interesting finds include spear heads located about a mile away from the caverns, causing Hartwell to  speculate that the gigantic animal could have been felled by early hunters who resided in the caverns.

Later, the Susquehannocks are said to have made their home there. It’s a mystery as to how long the occupation was, but speculation has it that before the end of the Archaic Period (8,000 B.C. – 1000 B.C.) they were living in other types of above-ground shelters. By the middle of the 1670s, the Susquehannocks were driven out by the Iroquois and Senecas.

The first to offer a description of the caverns for public consumption was Rev. Peter Miller of Ephrata, according to Hartwell. He called the caverns the “Grotto on the Swatara” in a letter he penned to be read before the American Philosophical Society in Philadelphia on March 3, 1783. In his letter, Miller describes the beauty of the cave and bemoans the fact that the country people were destroying it, which leads Hartwell to the conclusion that people were using it before the land was “warranted” in 1754. How exactly the beauty was being destroyed is made clearer in another letter written by the first Prothonotary of Dauphin County, who complains that the natural color and sheen of the walls was obscured by curious travelers carrying torches into the cave. Evidently the general public wasn't as preservation oriented as we all are today, judging by these early reports and the accounts of a Frenchman who traveled through Pennsylvania in 1794 and wrote about it in a journal in which he describes the interior as resembling Gothic architecture. “I cut off some stalactites, which I am keeping…” he wrote. Then there's the account of a a Philadelphia merchant who also visited the cave in the 1700s, only to return some 20 years later. “It has been much disfigured during that period by the frequency of burning straw, which is always used to light the apartments by strangers,” he wrote in his diary in 1817. After a bit of research, I discovered that the use of the word "apartments" here simply means "separated places" and indeed there are many in the cave, one of which was inhabited by a recluse, known as the Pennsylvania Hermit, which I'll mention more about later in this post. 
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The Crystal Ballroom.

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One of many "apartments" within the cave.
According to Hartwell, initial ownership of the caverns is a little murky, but one thing we know for sure is that it has been traced to a Samuel Brehm who died in 1927 and E.M. Hershey, who sold it to Dr. U.S.G. Bieber, who served as Mayor of Kutztown and decided to commercialize the venture. A state charter was granted to Indian Echo Cave, Inc. of Hummelstown and the capital stock was $125K. Incorporators were Bieber, Marie Bieber and D.M. Ryan of Lancaster. The purpose of the new company was to “purchase, develop and operate a natural cavern for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.”

stalagtites
Known as the "corncob," for good reason.
The group went to work ensuring that drain tiles were laid, material at the mouth of the cave was removed, stairs were built over fallen rocks, steps were constructed on the treacherous cliff to the entrance of the cave and 1700 lights were installed to illuminate every part of the cave. The corporation also installed a tree-lined driveway and converted a farm house into Indian Echo Inn, according to Hartwell.  In May, of 1929, businessmen, clergymen, politicians and others made it a point to visit the cave for its grand opening and then retired to the Inn for a repast.

The Pennsylvania Hermit
According to a well-circulated story, William (Amos) Wilson, was born in Lebanon in 1774 before moving to Chester County with his parents and his sister Elizabeth, who was two years his junior. While working at a Philadelphia hotel, Elizabeth was seduced by a man who promised to marry her. She became pregnant, ultimately giving birth to twins, as her lover reneged on his promise. Not long after the birth, hunters discovered the bodies of the infants in a nearby wooded area and she was charged with murder and sentenced to be hanged. Wilson pleaded the case to the Governor in Philadelphia who was moved enough to grant a stay of execution. Unfortunately, Wilson was stymied in his efforts to deliver the stay due to torrential rains and impassable streams. Elizabeth was hanged despite her brothers best efforts to save her and it was later suggested that the father was to blame for the murders.

Wilson ended up in the Hummelstown area and wracked with grief, sought shelter in the cave, isolating himself from the outside world, except to exchange goods for his support. He earned a living by making grindstones for farmers and spent 19 years there before passing in 1821.

A Dinner in the “Ballroom” of the Cave
Another interesting tidbit Hartwell shares in his book is a dinner held in the “Ballroom” of the Cave, held for the retiring principal of the Hummelstown Schools in 1934. This must have been quite an undertaking for the staff since there are dozens of stairs to negotiate in entering and exiting the cave.

The Sale after the Depression
The Corporation running the Indian Echo Cave and Inn failed during the Great Depression.  Eventually, control reverted to the Hummelstown National Bank. The Indian Echo Inn and its parking lot were sold separately and the Cave was purchased in 1942 by entrepreneur Edward Stover Swartz of Derry Township. A graduate of Hershey High School, Swartz initially pursued a career as a banker, but plans changed with the onset of the Depression. Swartz also opened up a service station, which grew into Swartz Service and Electric on the Hummelstown Square. For a time, Swartz also dabbled in the entertainment field, offering shows featuring country western music and comedy acts.

An Intriguing Find
One of the more interesting tidbits associated with Indian Echo Caverns lore is the mystery box found in 1919. According to Hartwell, five young men discovered the box in the “deepest recesses [of the caverns] beneath a heavy rock.” Contents of the box include a coin dating back to 480 B.C. and another dated 1288. Additional coins found in the collection hail from regions of the world like Egypt, Greece, Italy, the Byzantine (now Istanbul), England, Guatemala, China and Austria. A many-sided small block covered with strange characters was thought to be hollow, until a diminutive plug was discovered. When the plug was removed, a cylinder was found inside with directions on how to make diamonds with the aid of lightning. A small package, labeled “diamonds in the rough” contained moonstones. Jewelry was also found and included a cameo engraved “My Mother.”  The box is now in the permanent collection at Indian Echo Caverns and is on display in the gift shop, located near the parking lot, which many visit on their way into the caverns, or upon exiting.

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Animals like turkeys and peacocks capture the attention of young and old as they await their tour.

turkey

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A peacock looks out over the parking lot.
Indian Echo Caverns has managed to survive many years as a commercial venture and interest seems to ebb and flow with the changing times. Summer is generally the most popular time to visit since the caves maintain a cool 52 degrees year round.

For planning purposes, guided tours are conducted on the hour and last approximately 45 minutes.  Photography is permitted. Be sure to don comfortable footwear, preferably with closed toes since visitors have been known to step in small puddles that have formed around the cave.

To see additional pictures and learn more about hours of operation and rates, visit the Indian Echo Caverns website here.