Savoring the Flavor of Miami

South Beach is colorful and welcoming

In my neck of the woods it's pouring outside and the weekend looks to be a total washout as well. It's times like these when I become ambitious about updating my blog since my outside plans have been scuttled and it's well past time anyway.

As I reflect on this cloudy, rainy day, my thoughts are transported back to the beautiful weather we experienced while visiting Miami and since I've never written about the area for Cheeseplates and Room Service, I thought it might be a good time to do so.

Seeing the Sights

I've mentioned before that the best way to obtain an overall feel for an area is to start with a Big Bus Tour. One-day passes will set you back approximately $40 and you'll learn a lot in a relatively short amount of time, which will enable you to return to your favorite places later.

Last year when I visited the area, I spent the first day on the bus, learning about the history and culture of the area from a knowledgeable guide who not only pointed out landmarks, but also provided us the backstory on many of them. Hopping on and off on a whim was a breeze, due to a steady circulation schedule that ran from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Shooting pictures is easier from the upper tier, but take heed to apply sunscreen, or you're likely to get a nasty burn in the blazing Miami sun.

The Miami Big Bus Tours are separated into three categories: The Beach Loop, the City Loop and the Uptown Loop and the vehicles are color-coded so you can easily discern which bus to catch, depending on where you would like to go.

The Beach Loop

The Beach Loop transports passengers across the MacArthur Causeway to South Beach, where they can take in a view of the colorful, carefully tended art deco hotels that are prevalent along the bustling Ocean Drive.

Ocean Drive is also lined with restaurants, all competing against each other and vying for your business. Expect employees to approach you often along the way. The formula usually involves menu thrusting and questions on why you aren't interested in dining at a particular establishment. At one point, I decided to walk in the street to avoid the tiresome ritual.

Despite that minor issue, Ocean Drive is a fun, party-central basecamp if your bag is sitting outside and watching the world go by while consuming copious amounts of alcohol. Tourists gather from around the world to eat, drink and be merry on the famous commercial stretch of land and there are more than a few opportunities to "get your drink on."

Sweet and sugary drinks are the rage here and are traditionally served in fish bowl-sized vessels featuring two upside-down Coronas. In my quest for a less sugary drink, I fell in love with the Caprihena and I do wish more bartenders would serve them where I live.

Good luck finding a place that will serve you a normal-sized drink however. No matter what time of day you happen to visit the area, you're guaranteed to get a vat of alcohol, with the accordant calories, but hey, when you're on vacation, you're on vacation. Plenty of happy people spend hours on Ocean Drive bar hopping and having an overall great time. One girl staggered up to me at the end of the night and told me she was a psychic and determined that I had "the gift, too." Did I mention they make the drinks strong on Ocean Drive?

Monster Drinks are standard on Ocean Drive

If you're lucky enough to nab a hotel room on Ocean Drive, you'll have easy access to the nearby beach located directly across the street where many spend hours sunbathing, swimming and people watching.

The old Versace mansion on Ocean Drive is now operating as The Villa Casa Casuarina Hotel. 

At one point, we decided to escape the crowd on Ocean Drive and take a quiet walk on Collins Avenue to seek out a place to eat. When spotted the words"Quality Meats," on the side of a hotel, we were more than a little intrigued and took turns guessing what might be inside--a grocery store, a butcher shop, a deli?  We finally decided to check it out and were surprised to discover that it was a full-service restaurant featuring dishes like filet, duck and sirloin, so we opted to give it a try and dine al fresco on the patio. We were both quite happy with our entrees and delighted that we managed to stumble onto the place.

Filet, done three ways at Quality Meats in Miami.

If you choose to dine on the terrace, be sure to check out the bar's focal point--a meat-hook chandelier.

The City Loop

Peacocks roam Coconut Grove.

Coconut Grove Elementary School 

One of the dresses displayed in a boutique window.

The City Loop takes riders to Coconut Grove, one of the oldest, continuously inhabited areas of Miami. The Grove offers plenty of shopping opportunities, from open-air malls to boutiques. Disembark at Cocowalk and you'll find men's and women's fashions, jewelry, gifts, accessories and more. Bistros, restaurants, and bars are open until 3 a.m. in this area and attract many area college students from the University of Miami.

I suppose we didn't venture far enough to see any of the much-touted peacocks, which were once celebrated, as seen in the statue above. When I began writing this blog today, I decided to learn more about the peacock phenomenon and discovered that they appear to be wearing out their welcome. You can click here to read the story on how locals are no longer enraptured with the beautiful birds. I'll provide a snippet from the article dated July, 2016: "They're beautiful animals, and in the beginning, they're nice," Coconut Grove resident Danny Mugnai says. And then comes the but: "But they really are a nuisance, and they're going to get over-populated if they're not already. They yell at all times of the day, they go on cars and scratch the roofs. There was a guy who had a Ferrari and they scratched the whole car." According to the article, there's a lot of untoward PDA occurring as well, which has the residents in a bit of a flutter with plenty of peacock pique. The bucolic Coconut Grove has been more fowl than fair lately and that's not setting well with the residents. It reminds me of the chicken predicament in Key West.

But enough with the peacock problems--on to the City Loop where riders have the opportunity to view one of the first planned communities. Coral Gables, famous for its strict zoning ordinances and its Mediterranean-style architecture, is known as "City Beautiful" and is home to the University of Miami. Disembarking at the Village of Merrick Park is a must if you enjoy restaurants and upscale shops like Neiman Marcus, Jimmy Choo, Burberry, Nordstrom and Gucci, to name just a few.

At the end of the city loop is "Little Havana," and those who purchase a 48-hour "Big Bus" ticket can take advantage of a free, one-hour walking tour of the area to learn a brief history of how the Cuban people came to settle in the area and the changes that have taken place over the years.

The Uptown Loop

Art adorns warehouses in Miami's uptown loop

The most interesting loop, in my opinion, is the Uptown Loop, which takes tourists to Wynwood, Midtown, Historic Overtown and the Design District where a plethora of low-rise warehouses have been converted into art galleries, restaurants and cafes. Those visiting on the second Saturday of the month can join a community-wide Art & Design night held from 7-10 p.m. where galleries and design showroom owners welcome the general public with music and refreshments.

Warehouses in the Design District feature art by local artists.

Sampling Local Cuisine
Before making reservations at area dining establishments, you might want to first take advantage of a culinary tour. Miami Culinary Tours offers excursions into Little Havana, South Beach, Wynwood and Miami City.

The 2.5-hour tours include several stops designed to give visitors an overview of the area and its cuisine. "For example, we cover the art deco district, how it got started, who preserved it in the 1980s and the events that changed Miami altogether," said tour founder Grace Della.

Guests can time their walk to coincide with either the lunch, or the dinner hour. "We stop at places ranging from five-star, to mom-and-pop places where they serve amazing food at a fraction of the price," said Della.

No Shortage of Places to Stay

Hilton Grand Vacations at McAlpin Ocean-Plaza 

The Penguin Hotel is located on Ocean Drive

Miami's tourism industry is booming and, as such, there is no dearth of places to stay. Because we wanted to stay in the heart of the action, we chose the Hotel Leslie on the bustling Ocean Drive.

The Hotel Leslie on Ocean Drive

On our Big Bus Tour, we learned that the Fontainebleau on Collins Avenue is one of the most popular destinations for the well-heeled.

The famous  Fontainebleau in Miami

"The Fontainebleau is the largest resort in Miami, with 1,500 hotel rooms, five restaurants and one of the top-grossing nightclubs in the world called LIV. It's the place to be and be seen," said Kristina D'Amico, an area hospitality consultant.

Walking off the street and peeking inside isn't an option, however and the cover charge alone will set you back between $40 and $100, depending on the night's entertainment. Even if you are willing to shell out the coin for the cover, you may not gain entrance, according to D'Amico. "It depends on who is manning the door," she said.

Another upscale lodging option also located on Collins Avenue is EDITION. Located on a 3.5-acre enclave, the property stretches from Collins Avenue to the shoreline and bills itself as a "unique, world-class urban resort," offering many amenities.

Those interested in a more affordable stay can't go wrong perusing the options at Airbnb, where rooms, apartments and houses are offered to appeal to a wide variety of budgets.

These are just a few suggestions to take advantage of everything Miami has to offer. Those who are interested in booking a room on Ocean Drive might find it helpful to know that the crowds start small on Monday and grow larger as the weekend approaches.

Because there is so much to do and see in Miami, I recommend a minimum of five nights to take in the entire experience without feeling rushed. And most importantly, be sure to pack the sunscreen!

Poking around the Historic Little Town of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia

The Gazebo in Berkeley Springs Park

For a small community of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants, Berkeley Springs offers plenty to do and see for the tourist seeking a change of scenery. It's  been about six weeks since I accepted the invitation to be a judge at the annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting event and I'm finally finding time to write about my visit to the area. (Those who have yet to read about this unique experience can view the details in an earlier post on this site.)

I needn't have fretted about frigid February weather. In an unexpected twist, temperatures climbed into the mid-70, and to think, just last year, the region was encased in ice just around that very same time.

Known for its Waters

Berkeley Springs was once home to native Americans who first used the warm mineral springs for healing purposes before white settlers arrived. In 1776, George Washington, who was known to frequent the area, joined his friends and formed the town of Bath, now known to the world by its postal name "Berkeley Springs." Visitors have since been drawn to the waters which were said to have curative properties and were prescribed for a variety of ailments ranging from rheumatism to digestive disorders. Whether they do or not is up for debate, but the most prominent mineral is reported to be magnesium carbonate. Historians report that "taking the waters" often provided an excuse for socializing as well.

Early bathers were known to have soaked in hollowed-out pools, with privacy provided by woven brush screens. Women and men would bathe on alternate days. I must admit I was just a little disappointed to learn that "George Washington's Bath Tub," which can be seen near the west side of Berkeley Springs State Park, is merely a representation of bathing conditions at the time.

During warmer weather, children and adults alike wade in the park's pools and channels. The Bathhouse is open all year round where visitors can, for a fee, luxuriate in jacuzzis, or in a walk-in "Roman Bath" filled with 750 gallons of mineral water, which is heated to a temperature of 102 degrees.

At Berkeley Springs park where guests can soak in heated mineral water.

Guests also visit the park to help themselves to free water from public fountains housed onsite under the historic Gentleman's Spring House located next to the Old Roman Bathhouse. When we visited, we spoke with a couple who were filling up dozens of gallon jugs they had toted from Washington, DC.

A park monument dedicated to James Rumsey, who invented the steamboat, according to West Virginians,. The curious monument is a buhrstone from a local mill since Rumsey was also known to have patented several mill-related inventions.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

The Country Inn dates back to 1932 and is located next to the Berkeley Springs State Park.

The Country Inn is located in the center of town within convenient walking distance of Berkeley Springs Park and other retail and service establishments. Both rooms and suites are available and restaurants are located on site.

Sitting rooms in the Country Inn.

The Country Inn's onsight restaurant, The Morgan Tavern

House upon the Hill, Moon is Lying Still
When entering the grounds of the Berkeley Springs State Park, your eye will be drawn upwards to a castle perched atop a steep cliff above the park. The odd structure seems a bit out of place and I couldn't help but be reminded of this old song sung by the inimitable Lizard King.

The medieval-looking castle, with it's carved cross located in the center of a turret, was nothing short of intriguing and I questioned our guide, Jeanne Mozier, about it. She provided me with a few details and only later did I discover that she wrote an entire book about the place, so I made it a point to purchase it at a local gift shop.

The Berkeley Castle

In her book titled, "The Story of Berkeley Castle: What's True and What's Not," Mozier describes the structure as being built in 1885 at the directive of businessman Samual Taylor Suit. Constructed from sandstone, the castle includes 15 interior rooms and a basement "dungeon." Work was completed by 1887 and soon afterward Samuel, his third wife Rosa and their three children moved into the abode.

Taylor Suit, as he preferred to be called, possessed not only a peculiar name but also an intriguing story--details of which unfold in Mozier's book. The "railroad man/distiller" ended up marrying a total of three times during his life. His first marriage, to his bosses' daughter, ended tragically when his wife died while giving birth to a son, who also passed.

Suit eventually ended up in Manhattan where he (once again) married the daughter of a business connection. This paved his way to a seat on the New York Stock Exchange.

The couple conceived two children, of which only one survived and marriage number two sadly ended in divorce.

By 1883, Suit was ready to marry again, perhaps feeling as if the third time would be a charm. The 51-year-old businessman likely raised a few eyebrows by marrying a woman who was 30 years his junior. Rosa, too, had "connections." Her father served one term in the U.S. Congress, worked at the U.S. Treasury and also practiced law.

By 1888 however, Suit's business connections were all for naught. He succumbed to illness, leaving the 27-year-old widow with, well, pretty much everything, on the caveat that she would never remarry.

According to Mozier, "After a brief period of mourning, Rosa launched what would be a decade of glittering parties" and although she never did remarry, rumor had it that she took on a lover. The noted horseman was also heir to "Ravenswood," another "cottage" estate nearby.

The local press reported breathlessly on the young widow's extravagant parties, from the decor of the mansion to the elite invitees, to the activities therein: "There was dancing to a coronet band and then a march to the supper room at 11:30 p.m. for a bountiful repast," reads one article.

The socialite seemed to revel in her role as "talk of the town." An interesting tidbit in the book mentions a smoking habit, which was considered a scandalous practice among women of the era. "The Hotel Dunn would order her gold-tipped Malachrino cigarettes, made especially for the ladies," reports Mozier.

Rosa's over-the-top lifestyle finally caught up with her and the creditors came a calling, prompting her to change her last name to Soult at one point. She was eventually booted from the castle, after a brief period of what appears, (from information provided in the book), to be squatting, although I doubt they used that term back in the day.

Over the years, aspiring entrepreneurs attempted to run the castle as a business venture. It was used as an artists' residence, a boys' camp and a tea room. Weddings were catered there as well.

Eventually, a man by the name of Walter Bird purchased the residence and gave it a little stability, conducting daily tours for a period of 50 years. The residence was later sold at auction and bought by investors in 2000. That relationship turned out to be short-lived and it was sold again in 2002 to an out-of-towner named Andrew Gosline who got caught up in the bidding on his birthday.

It has remained uninhabited since Gosline passed away in 2014 and has been closed to the public since.

Restaurants, Shops and More

Berkeley Springs is a compact little town, making it very walkable with a variety of shops and restaurants all within close proximity. A small museum situated at the far end of Berkeley Springs state park describes the area's history in a series of panels and is home to a 400-pound sandstone that was pulled from Warm Springs Ridge.

A 400-pound sandstone on display at the museum located on the grounds of Berkeley Springs State Park.

Guests will find plenty of places to browse among the many shops that line the streets. For antique lovers, the Berkeley Springs Antique Mall on Fairfax street features a large variety of items sold by dozens of dealers. Glassware, ephemera, estate jewelry, furniture and more can be found here.
Guests can even poke around the public library located downtown or take in a show at a historic old theater by the name of "The Star." Dining opportunities offer a little something for all tastes and budgets. During my visit, I enjoyed a stellar brunch prepared by Chef Devin Lucas at Tari's Cafe.

A spectacular brunch at Tari's Cafe on Washington Street

The Star Theatre has been serving the area for 89 years now.

The Naked Olive is one of the many shops that line the street.

The Morgan County Public Library located in Berkeley Springs

Those looking for a quiet, laid back, inexpensive vacation will find plenty to do and see during a weekend in Berkeley Springs. My only regret is that I didn't visit this picturesque little area during the summer when everything was green and in bloom, but with temperatures soaring into the '70s in late February, who am I to complain?

Whetting My Whistle as a Water Judge at the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting

For those who fear they may be bored to death with this blog entry, I'll sum it up in a nutshell so you save some time reading it if you just can't bear to continue.
"There's so much more to H2O than you likely know." 

Have I lost you yet? I hope not because it CAN be a bit of an interesting topic, even more so if I stay out of the weeds with a brief overview of what's happening in the water world. (Oh and I do hope this isn't as boring as the movie!)

To start off, I will admit that I received quite the education when I was chosen to sit with a dozen or so of my colleagues to judge approximately 75 waters at the 27th Annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting in February.

Each year, about a dozen judges are selected to spend a few days in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia to learn more about the nuances of water tasting and other important information about the role the life-sustaining liquid plays in the health of our planet.

So how did I manage to nab a seat on the panel you might ask? Well, it all began last year when I was put in touch with water sommelier Martin Riese for an upcoming article in the Chambersburg Public Opinion. Suggesting that this country may be ready for more water sommeliers might likely earn one the accusation of being "all wet," but for Riese, it was, (and still is), serious business. 

Riese is known as the only water sommelier in the United States and has been featured widely in the media as such. The H2O expert is certified by the German Water Trade Association and at the time of the interview, had been hired by the Patina Group to create a 40-page water-tasting menu for Ray's and Stark Bar in Los Angeles. 

Last year, Riese participated in the water judging and granted me an interview, which, in turn, led me to event producer Jill Klein Rone. Jill learned about my blog and dining column and asked if I'd be willing to participate as a judge the following year. I was skeptical about my ability to distinguish one water from another, but am always up for a challenge, so I agreed and this February I joined other food writers, bloggers and various media personalities at the historic Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.There we spent hours sipping, scoring and comparing a variety of waters, evaluating them for clarity, taste, "mouth feel" and other attributes.

A "common room" at the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.

The Morgan Tavern at the Inn at The Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.

A view from the outside of the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, which dates back to 1932.

According to Klein Rone, the competition has grown exponentially over the years. "When the event started, it was to draw people to Berkeley Springs as part of a winter festival. We had no idea it would end up being so important in the water world."

This year's theme was "Water: Beneath the Surface and Around the Globe" and water experts from around the world gathered to discuss such topics as the crisis in Flint, Michigan, infrastructure and protecting our water supply.

Joining the Judges

One of my first jobs as a judge was to take part in an educational session delivered by Water Master Arthur Von Wiesenberger. Weisenberger, who grew up in Italy and describes himself as a "passionate hobbyist," flies in from Santa Barbara, California each year to share his knowledge with the panel. As a colorful personality and an endless "font" of information, he shares sometimes humorous stories, like the tale about a "rogue" judge who scored a rather odious municipal water quite high. "It reminds me of my childhood," declared the native Frenchman.

During the session, Wiesenberger keyed us in on various aspects of water, from minerals, to trace elements and carbonation. "The most common tastes consumers experience in tap water come from chlorine, (from the chemicals used in water treatment), iron (from pipes, storage tanks and nature) and sulfur (usually from natural hot springs.)" He explained that bottled water has varying degrees of mineralization, which impart a range of flavor,"mouth feel" and "aftertaste sensations." 

The Water Master also provided us with a small compendium on the subject titled "The Taste of Water," which included a glossary of sometimes humorous tasting "notes" including "wet band-aid, wet dog, flabby and flinty." 

After the educational session, we began sampling some of the finest waters in the world, some coming from as far away as Greece, Norway, New Zealand and Korea. 

Von Wiesenberger cautioned us to be cognizant of the information he shared as we waded into the realm of the water critic.We spent the afternoon and evening examining the clarity of the water placed before us by holding wine glasses up to the light against the backdrop of stark white paper. We rolled the water around in our mouths to gauge "mouth feel" and scored the various entries according to a series of attributes, including how we felt about the taste--whether we were we "over the moon," or just "meh." 

To prevent palate fatigue we were supplied with an ample supply of the aptly named Carr's "water crackers," which we would nibble on here and there and then resume the process of tasting. 

We took several breaks for reasons you can probably guess and one final break for dinner where we socialized with our colleagues before reconvening. We tasted municipal water, purified and bottled water, both still and sparkling. 

Discerning degrees of difference between the various purified waters turned out to be the most challenging due to subtle nuances. The easiest waters to judge ended up being the municipal and the sparkling water, both of which had a stronger "taste." An interesting takeaway, in my opinion, is that there are far better sparkling water choices than salty Perrier. The challenge will be to find any of those brands in my town. To add to the complication, I have no idea which ones hit a home run with me since it was a "blind" competition, but now I will be actively seeking alternative brands. 

The view of the "tasting" from my vantage point, along with the score sheet. One interesting fact was that an unusually large percentage of left-handers were seated at the front table.

That's me in the purple. 

The pricey Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway. 

A few things that surprised me about the experience. Number 1: The event drew a large audience--in fact--quite a few people observed the competition and the crowd swelled during the evening events as they watched us....taste....water. Granted, I imagine a few were family and friends of those who entered their waters in the competition, but still...Who knew that water tasting would be a spectator sport? Number two was the cost of the Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway. A display told the story of the niche water and how it makes its way to market. Harvesting glacier ice is no small feat, nor is it inexpensive.You can read more here.

During the event, the public played an active role by casting its vote on the most attractive packaging. "Winners have experienced exponential growth, others have closed major deals and almost all winners redesign their labels to display their winning medal," said founder Jeanne Mozier. 

"The impact of winning this event is extraordinary for a bottler," she added. 

The competition culminated with a "water rush" where the crowd rushed the stage with all manner of bags and receptacles to grab as many bottles as they could carry. Even the kids got in on the action.

I must say it was an interesting, fun, educational experience and I took time the day before to explore charming and historic Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, where I learned the story of the Berkeley Castle and laid eyes on what is rub-a-dub-dubbed as "George Washington's bathtub." I'll be blogging about my time there in the next week or so.

And, in case you stayed with me to the bitter end, here are the winners of the 2017 competition:

http://berkeleyspringswatertasting.com/winners/

A Quick Philly Jaunt to a Few Philly Haunts

I found myself in Philadelphia last weekend on what could hardly be described as a "trip." I suppose it was more like a jaunt--an overnight stay, which began on a chilly Saturday afternoon. I found it hard to believe that just one week earlier, I was enjoying strolling around Berkeley Springs, West Virginia in short sleeves prior to taking part in the annual International Water Tasting Competition, (which I will be writing about later). The weather was glorious as temperatures soared into the 70s. Just seven days later in not-too-far-away Philly, we were braving mid-20 temps, quickening our steps and pulling our coat collars up against the wind as we made our way to various destinations downtown.

Despite our last-minute decision to spend a night in the bustling area, we managed to nab a decent rate at a nicely appointed and spacious room at the Marriott Residence Inn Center City, with Billy Penn staring right down into our bedroom window. 

Guests were offered a free, hot, breakfast featuring the standard selection of fruit, yogurt, sausage, scrambled eggs and my husband's favorite--biscuits and gravy. I'd recommend the property to anyone who wants better-than-average accommodations located in the heart of the action. 

If you're comparing prices, however, do factor in a $53 valet charge, or you'll get sticker shock like we did. The City of Philadelphia (heretofore unbeknownst to us) implemented a $10 per-car valet tax and because there was no onsite lot, we had no choice but to use the service. It seems like standard parking in large cities ends up costing $30-$50 no matter which way you slice it these days. Two years ago we stayed in a Washington, D.C. Marriott Marquis and paid $50 there as well. 

Philadelphia City Hall

Normally when I embark on such a short trip, I don't usually take the time to write up an account, but I did manage to take a few nice pictures of the area and wanted to share the shots taken from one destination, in particular. 

William Penn stands tall atop City Hall

At one time, Philadelphia zoning laws allowed no building to be higher than William Penn's hat. 

The pictures below happen to be the ones I shot with my plain old Lumix digital from the One Liberty Observation Deck located at One Liberty Place. The attraction is relatively new, having opened just over a year ago on November 28, 2015.

Open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., the deck is accessible via a 75-second elevator trip to the top of the 57th floor for a panoramic view of the city. (Afterwards, you can spend some time at the upscale shopping mall located at the same address.)

Below are a few of the stunning views I captured from various lookout points.

Views from One Liberty Observation Deck

Ben Franklin stands guard at One Liberty Observation Deck.

Later that evening we enjoyed small plates at a Greek restaurant called Opa located at 1311 Samson Street. The Greek salad, pork souvlaki and keftedes were wonderful, but I flipped for a delicious combination of fingerling potatoes with taleggio cheese and pancetta. It wouldn't be a proper night in Philly however if didn't come home with a story, or two. As we sat near a street-level window overlooking Samson Street, we watched a transaction that involved money, a large bowl pipe, a "hit" and a grin. Kinda like "loosies," but with weed. Inflation and all, I suppose.

Another Short Visit--to McGillin's Old Ale House

After dinner, I had the ill-advised idea to venture down the alley to the "oldest continuously operating tavern in Philadelphia," called McGillin's Old Ale House. I guess we didn't fit in well with the under-25'ers because we raised a few eyes and a nervous looking crowd parted as we made our way inside. Were they expecting a bust? I swear I heard, "Oh shit." 

Others just gaped at us as they slid to the floor. I couldn't help but be a bit amused, but I wasn't hanging around either. Well, W.C. Fields did famously say, "Philly is a wonderful place; I spent a week there one night." 

Later, I learned a few more interesting details about the place, like it opened the year Lincoln was elected and the taps have been flowing since 1860. Ma and Pa McGill raised 13 children there and back in the day, Ma had a list of "ne'er do wells" whom she refused to allow past the front door. According to their website, the list read like the social registry and included some of Philly's most prominent citizens.

I also learned that McGillin's is home to a rather intriguing collection of signs from now-defunct Philly businesses like Wanamakers, Woolworths, Lit Brothers, Strawbridge & Clothier and a stately old respected institution by the name of Deux Cheminees, where we had the pleasure to dine over a decade ago. (The 100+-year-old twin brownstones with leaded stained glass, walnut paneling, and Mercer-tiled fireplaces closed in 2007 and have since been taken over by the highly acclaimed vegetarian restaurant known simply as "Vedge.")  I doubt we'll go there due to...well, take a guess. (Hint: He's in the picture below.)

"The man"  intent upon busting up the fun approaches a group of young revelers at McGillin's.

We stopped for a late-night drink before returning to the Residence Inn and I ran into an old professor who was fired up on scotch and politics, but that's another story to file away with the many other quirky memories we've collected on our many visits to the City of Brotherly Love.