Exploring Historic West Chester

Several weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit downtown West Chester, Pa not just for a change of scenery, (which I enjoy every month or two), but also to learn more about the history of the area.

I learned that the borough of West Chester has been known as a haven for hospitality since the 1760s when Phineas Eachus was licensed to build a tavern in the area. Today it's a growing region that is drawing increasing interest from out-of-towners seeking a getaway.

Shoppers, history buffs, foodies and art enthusiasts will all likely find something enchanting in the walkable little town.

Upscale Accommodations in a Renovated Theatre

The West Chester downtown historic district earned a place on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 with its impressive number of structures built between 1789 and the 1930s and the centrally located family owned and operated Hotel Warner, is just one of them.

The lobby of the Hotel Warner features the original theater staircase.

A floor-to-ceiling photo hangs in the lobby to give guests a glimpse into the days of yore.

The hotel welcomes guests today with 80 comfortable rooms and amenities like free wi-fi, an indoor pool, a free breakfast buffet, and a workout room, but the structure was once home to a state-of-the-art theater that was renown for its over-the-top grandeur. This both enthralled and confused the local community sending the rumor mill into overdrive with speculation that it was all a big mistake and that the theater was intended for West Chester, New York, rather than West Chester, Pennsylvania.

The outside of the Hotel Warner as viewed from the top of the Chestnut Street garage.

Local Eateries 

Downtown West Chester is replete with eateries within walking distance of the Warner Hotel, some continuing in the tradition of repurposing that which once was.

For example, Restaurant 51 is a fine example of an old-firehouse-turned-hip eating establishment. Located at 30 N. Church Street, the eatery has been popular with the locals since opening in February. The spacious interior decor, with its exposed brick, ductwork and Edison lights can be described as "industrial chic."

For many, it is a gathering place to root for their favorite team, or just to knock back a few, grab a bite and socialize. The menu features casual fare like burgers, fries, soups, salads and entrees like chicken parmesan and fish and chips, with rotating craft brews, select wines and specialty cocktails rounding out the menu.

Restaurant 51 Tap & Spirit

The front of the Iron Hill Brewery, which was once home to a Woolworth's.

Another popular area restaurant is the Iron Hill Brewery located at 3 Gay Street, where you'll find handcrafted beer served in a casual atmosphere. Both my husband and I decided to grab lunch there and we were not disappointed. I ordered the "Zeus Burger," which is named after the Greek god to highlight the Greece-inspired ingredients. All I know is that its good I don't live closer, or the New Years' diet resolutions would be out the window. The combination of lamb and beef was perfectly matched with cucumber, onion and feta. Add to that the crowning touches of garlic aioli and herb sauce and pile the entire shooting match on a brioche bun and there you have a cravable dish.

Inside of the dining room of the Iron Hill Brewery. 

In front of the Iron Hill Brewery

My husband was equally pleased with his selection--the "Grilled Brewben." The corned beef/swiss cheese sandwich topped with bacon beer kraut and thousand island dressing was served on marble rye. Mike described it as the "best Reuben he ever had." (That's saying something since I've witnessed him consume an untold number throughout the years.)

The Grilled "Brewben."

The "Zeus Burger" served with delicious homemade chips; I want another.

Architectural Walking Tours

With so many historic structures looming large in West Chester, it would be a pity to stroll by and guess at their provenance, so that's why Malcolm Johnstone makes himself available to those who are interested. Johnstone, history buff extraordinaire, tailors tours to time and interest and can be reached at mjohnstone@wcbid.com.

One notable building guests will learn about on Johnstone's tour is located near the Chester County Historical Society. Horticultural Hall is known as the last West Chester commission of renowned architect Thomas U.Walter before he oversaw construction of the dome atop the U.S. Capitol. Walter used serpentine stone--a limestone extracted from the Taylor Quarry north of West Chester. Once guests learn about the limestone, they then recognize other buildings around town that also contain the green-hued stone.

Horticultural Hall

The historic post office.

Another interesting structure is the historic post office, located at 101 E. Gay Street. The federal building was erected during a time when James Knox Taylor served as the supervising Architect of the Treasury at the turn of the 20th century. He believed that government buildings should be monumental, beautiful and constructed of the highest quality materials.

The post office was built in two phases, with construction starting in 1907 and then resuming in 1935. Cockeysville Marble that was quarried at Baker's Station nearly 18 miles away was used in the construction and is said to glitter in the sunlight. I visited on a cloudy day, unfortunately.

The William Darlington Building seen below and built in 1789 is considered the oldest surviving First Period structure and is dedicated to William Darlington, considered one of the fathers of West Chester. Darlington was an educator, botanist, banker and politician, who lived and worked at this location during most of his career.

The William Darlington Building located at 13 North High Street.

This picture of William Darlington hangs in the local historical society.

Other historic buildings include the Chester County Courthouse, built in 1848 and the First Bank of Chester County built in 1837. Now owned by Wells Fargo, the First Bank building is the oldest commercial structure in West Chester operating in the capacity for which it was built. It's a fine example of Greek Revival and is one of the reasons why West Chester earned the nickname the Athens of Pennsylvania. If you visit, you can step onto the portico and look towards the ceiling to see the inscription by the architect, who must have been proud of his work. Engraved into the stone is his name: Thomas U. Walter

The West Chester Courthouse built in 1848

First Bank of Chester County built in 1837, now occupied by Wells Fargo.

Thomas U. Walter added his name to the structure.

Visiting the Chester County Historical Society
The Chester County Historical Society located at 225 North High Street is home to a research library of rare documents, photographs and newspapers spanning a period of 300 years. The Society hosts a variety of youth programs and features rotating exhibits.

The Chester County Historical Society

From now through December, guests can view the artwork of Adrian Martinez, who brings history to life with his exhibit titled, "The Visionary World of Humphry Marshall 1750-1800." The talented artist, who hails from D.C., tells the story of Chester County native Humphry Marshall, who is now viewed as a "renaissance man." Marshall used his talents working as a stonemason, farmer, astronomer, botanist and chemist, to name a few. Martinez describes Marshall as a "curious man," not unlike Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. In his exhibit, Martinez depicts Marshall and the people around him as he imagines them to be, while, at the same time crediting another West Chester notable, William Darlington, who recognized that men such as Marshall should not be forgotten.

Susannah Wright confers with Deborah Norris Logan 

Artist Andrian Martinez poses with his painting: Downings' Town, which depicts the peaceful aspirations of Quakers against the reality of war.  

A Nice Variety of Shops

West Chester is home to an eclectic mix of shops and visitors can spend hours browsing among all 75.  For foodies, I recommend a visit to Carlinos--a market that sells a wide array of sweets, cheeses, olives, meats, pasta and other artisan creations designed to make your mouth water. 

The olive bar at Carlinos. 

Chocolate aficionados won't want to miss Eclat, located at 24 S. High. Christopher Curtin pulls out all the stops to ensure that he provides his clientele with the highest quality chocolate available. The Master Chocolatier honed his skills at some of the finest chocolate houses in the world, from France, to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland and Japan.  I recommend trying the lavender caramels and one of their unique "parallel bars," like the one shown here flavored with green tea and roasted rice.

Curtin has worked with Anthony Bourdain and his chocolates have been recognized by Bon Appetit as some of the "Best Chocolates in America." He has appeared on CNN's "Parts Unknown," with Anthony Bourdain (Peru episode). He collaborated with Bourdain and chef Eric Ripert to create "Good & Evil," a chocolate bar embedded with nibs and crafted from dark Peruvian Pure Nacional chocolate that grows wild and was thought to be extinct.

A few of the chocolate selections available at Eclat. 

West Chester isn't just for foodies. The many retail boutiques offer a wide selection of apparel, gifts, art and collectibles. As a matter of fact, West Chester was recently voted "Best New Shopping District" by Philadelphia Magazine and Frommers recognized it as one of the top 10 Best Small-town downtowns.

Book lovers in search of a bargain can generally bank on finding something of interest at Second Reading Book Store at 32 N. Church Street. The small shop carries a range of books, most of which are $3 or less and sales proceeds benefit senior citizens. I picked up a like-new Malcolm Gladwell hardback for a mere $3.

Second Reading sells used books at bargain prices.

Downtown West Chester is growing and reaching out to an even wider variety of tastes for those, who like me, need a change of scenery every now and then. To keep up-to-date with what's happening in this burgeoning area, take a look at their website at www.downtownwestchester.com.

Tasting Greenwich Village

I can't say I enjoy the "hustle and bustle" of the holidays, so, being the masochist that I am, I inserted myself right into the middle of it all with a mid-December trip to New York.

Our local radio station was sponsoring a bus trip to the Big Apple and I had my eye on a Greenwich Village food tasting tour, so I purchased tickets several weeks in advance. I do love travel, more than I hate crowds, I suppose.

As for the winter weather, we've been quite lucky here in good old frosty Pennsylvania. Just last year, one snowstorm alone, (Jonas), dropped a total of 36 inches on us. This year, we've enjoyed a bit of a reprieve, which lasted until the day of the tour. We learned 24-hours beforehand that an ice storm was nigh, and, for once, the forecasters were correct, but we stayed the course. My husband and I piled in the car around 5:00 a.m. and made our way carefully to the radio station studio, which was about 10 miles away. Roads had yet to be salted and snow fell steadily. Being half asleep has its merits; I only "overreacted" (according to my husband) once as we slid through a stop light.

You can deduce that we made it in one piece by the fact that I'm writing this, but I have to say that the ride wasn't without its harrowing moments and we witnessed a few wrecks along the way. Thankfully, the rain stopped right before we pulled into the city. We did have to wade through deep puddles of slush here and there, so I have to give a shout out to the manufacturer of my boots--which kept my feet dry the entire time. Thanks to Patrizia for a well-made, waterproof, comfortable pair of footwear.

Eating our Way through Greenwich Village

We met our guide at Murray's Cheese and Gourmet Foods located on Bleecker Street. The family-owned establishment was founded in 1940, by Murray Greenburg, a Jewish veteran of the Spanish Civil War. Murray later sold the business to his clerk, an Italian immigrant who hailed from Calabria. The shop met the eggs, butter and simple cheese needs of the neighborhood. In the 1990s, Rob Kaufelt, a New Jersey native with a grocery background and a passion for cheese, purchased the business and expanded the offerings. Today the establishment is chockablock with cheeses that Kaufelt has discovered during his travels around the world.

Murray's Cheese Shop located at 254 Bleecker Street

After our Murray's visit, the guide led us down the road a bit to another beloved New York institution--a small pizza shop by the name of Joe's. He informed us that lines are often "out the door," which isn't hard to believe since the shop can be described as "cozy."

We learned that the business was founded in 1975 by Naples native Joe Pozzuoli. (I found myself wondering if my great-grandmother, who also hailed from Naples, made a similar pie; stories were that it was fantastic.)

With its glutinous, thin crust made with dough incorporating New York City tap water, high-quality mozzarella, and San Marzano tomatoes, it sets the standard for what New York pizza is supposed to be and has won many accolades, including being named one of the "Best 25 Pizzas on Earth," by GQ Magazine.

A bit of inside information provided by the guide: the little joint was originally located just three doors down, but at the end of the 20-year-lease, the rent skyrocketed from $900 a month to a whopping $15,000 a month. Joe wasn't having it, so he moved down the street and, at age 75, still oversees operations.

Joe's Pizza at 7 Carmine Street in New York's Greenwich Village

After snacking on our pizza slices, we learned a little more about the architecture and history of the area and that is it quite expensive to reside in "The Village." Our guide informed us that this tenement housing you see below located is considered a "steal" and is available for between $2600 and $3200 a month. (Evidently, my version of "steal" is quite different than that of a New Yorker.) That princely sum will land you a studio apartment measuring between 300-350 square feet. Air conditioning, pets, elevators? Fugeddaboutit.

Dreaming of New York living? A studio apartment in this beauty cost between $2600-$3200 a month.

Want to capture a glimpse of Taylor Swift? Word has it you can at least view her darkly tinted chariot emerging once in awhile.

That's quite a contrast to a property that Taylor Swift is currently renting. We happened upon this property on our way to Cornelia Street Cafe, which is located on the same block.

Cornelia Street Cafe is well known in New York as an artistic haunt, featuring spoken word, comedy and musical performances. There we enjoyed a deep-fried, softball-sized rice ball known as arancini, Having been on other food tours, I have learned from experience to pace myself, so my husband was only too happy to indulge in half of what I was served during most of the tour.

While relaxing in the lower level of the Cafe, we learned a few more tidbits about the haven for artists and that Sara Jessica Parker and her husband Matthew Broderick canoodled here on their first date. (If you care about that sort of thing, and I made up the canoodling--although it could be true. It would be even better if they canoodled at a noodle place.)

Cornelia Street Cafe dates back to the 1970s. 

A stop at O & Co. revealed to the group why we're being ripped off by substandard olive oil and deceptive marketing practices. Having enjoyed the quality of olive oil sold at O & Co. in the past, I am happy they are getting the word out. Hint: Always look for "cold pressed." Heat processing destroys the health benefits.

O & Co. sells a selection of high-quality olive oil and balsamic vinegar. 

As we trudged along the slushy streets, our guide pointed out this interesting abode, known as the narrowest home in New York City. The dwelling once served as a boarding house for actors at the nearby Cherry Lane Theatre. Once home to poet Edna St. Vincent Millay and anthropologist Margaret Mead, the 9 x 6-inch dwelling sold for a cool $3.25 million in 2013. To get a glimpse inside this unique space, click here.

75 1/2 Bedford Street, New York. This address is known as the narrowest home in NYC.

From there, we took a peek at the Cherry Lane Theater, where Barbra Streisand once worked as an usher.

Other stops along the way included Trattoria Pesce Pasta, where we indulged in one of the delicious meatballs for which they are known and Rafele Ristorante, where we dined on eggplant rollatini.

Trattoria Pesce Pasta opened in 1992 and is a neighborhood favorite. 

We dined on eggplant rollatini at Rafele Ristorante.

We ended our tour with an oversized chocolate chip cookie at Milk and Cookies Bakery, an independent neighborhood haunt that caters to Greenwich Village locals. Our guide pointed out the property next door that was once rented by Mark Zuckerberg and is currently on the market for a mere $5.75 million.

Property last rented by Mark Zuckerberg

Milk & Cookies Bakery

Before wrapping up our visit to New York, we managed to take in a few sights at Bryant Park and had the opportunity to meet a few rude employees at the New York Public Library who loudly shouted, "Get OUT, Get OUT," to a gang of people at 5:45 p.m. near closing time. Well, I guess they aren't known as the "City of Brotherly Love," so what can one expect?

A mural at the New York Public Library. 

Holdings at the New York Public Library.

FaceBook was demonstrating VR at a pop up in Bryant Park.

A shot of the New York Public Library ceiling.

Ice skaters at Bryant Park.

Still, NY remains extremely popular during the holiday season and the streets grew claustrophobically crowded as dusk fell.

I'd be interested in taking another food tour when the weather is a bit more accommodating and the crowds a little less intense, but if you enjoy food, history, architecture and local lore, it's certainly time well spent. 

Learning about the Past in Historic Fredericksburg, Virginia

Visitors who enjoy history can spend days in Fredericksburg, Virginia, soaking in the tidbits from the many well-informed, friendly residents who call the town home.

The picturesque area, located about an hour from our nation's capital, features a variety of destinations designed to educate and enlighten.

I recently took a whirlwind tour the area and decided to offer a few suggestions for those who have limited time and still wish to make the most of a weekend visit.

Begin with a Trolley Tour
I always suggest taking a bus or trolley tour to get an overview of the area so you can plot your return to destinations of interest. The Trolley Tours of Fredericksburg operates year round, with knowledgeable guides who provide details on fascinating local people and important events that played a prominent part in our nation's history.

In the 1860s, four major Civil War battles were fought within 15 miles of Fredericksburg and many lives were lost during that time. During the 75-minute trolley tour, guests will learn more about those battles and view churches and buildings used by Confederate and Union soldiers.

The area is replete with historic structures--350 of which are recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and date back hundreds of years, like the St. George's Episcopal Church picture below. Built in 1720, the church features stained-glass windows installed in 1912 by Louis Comfort Tiffany. One famous scene is deemed, "The Road to Emmaus."

Information flows quickly, which makes it difficult to watch the world fly by AND take notes, but I did manage to jot down a few details here and there for future research.

Another stop along the way includes the Lewis Store,which dates back to 1749. Owned by George Washington's brother-in-law Fielding Lewis, (who was a member of the House of Burgesses and helped found the Fredericksburg Gun Manufactury during the American Revolution), the structure is known as the oldest mercantile shop in the United States.

The Lewis Store

The Trolley also stops in front of the Rising Sun Tavern, built in 1760 by George Washington's younger brother Charles and the Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop, which dates back to 1771. The guide offered colorful details on how Dr. Mercer served the citizenry with treatments that were popular at the time--like leeches and lancets, for instance. Today it is open to the public as a museum.

The Rising Sun Tavern

The Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop

Riders will also view the Historic Kenmore Plantation built by George Washington's sister Betty and his brother-in-law, the aforementioned Fielding Lewis. George chose to buy his mother a house nearby, which is also along the trolley route, but more on that later.

Downtown Fredericksburg is also home to many restaurants and shops, which include 90 independently owned antique stores, some of which the guide will point out along the way.

The cozy and quaint Ristorante Renato serves traditional Italian specialties like lasagna and meatballs. 

Goolricks Pharmacy, also located downtown, is worthy of a visit. I was attracted to the neon sign because I enjoy keeping up with news from the Society for Commercial Archeology, so I snapped a few pictures during my trip, only to discover later that it touts one of the oldest continuously operating soda fountains in the nation.

Goolrick's Pharmacy established in 1847.

These are but a few destinations you'll see along the tour route. Trolleys run year-round and start at the Fredericksburg Visitor Center located at 706 Caroline Street. Winter tours take place twice daily at 11:00 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Visit the Abode of Mary Washington
The Trolly Tour also passes the Mary Washington House built in 1772 and purchased by George Washington for his mother Mary. The white frame home located on the corner of Charles and Lewis Street in Fredericksburg is within walking distance of the Kenmore Plantation, where Mary's daughter Betty lived. Mary moved there at the age of 64 and resided in the house for approximately 17 years before succumbing to what we learned later was breast cancer.

Today the public can tour the house and the garden, where Mary grew flowers and boxwoods.

Many thanks to Washington Heritage Museums for bending the rules a bit and allowing me to snap a few shots of the interior.

The exterior of the Mary Washington House.

Interior photos of the Mary Washington House

Unique details on a chair in the Mary Washington House

Mary Washington's favorite tea set from China

The first-floor bedroom of the Mary Washington House

George Washington was said to have slept here.

A sundial that belonged to Mary Washington.

Hand-carved chair rail 

Take a Self-Guided Tour of Chatham

Chatham Manor is a beautiful and stately Georgian-style home which was once the residence of farmer-turned-statesman William Fitzhugh. It is one of just three locations visited by both Washington and Lincoln. Although built prior to the Revolutionary War, the place is most remembered for its role during the Civil War where it served as a Union headquarters, hospital and soup kitchen.

Today it stands as headquarters for Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park. Staff volunteers greeted us at the front door and offered to answer any questions we had during the self-guided tour.

During our visit, we learned a few grisly details about the condition of the house after the war, from blood and graffiti on the walls, to damage wreaked by horses housed on the first floor.
Needless to say, the grounds and manor have been restored and guests can view a timeline of its many owners and incarnations over the years.

The entrance to Chatham Manor.

Interior pictures of Chatham Manor.

The kitchen at Chatham Manor.

A cool copper sink, with a window that overlooks the grounds.

A scabbard decorated by a soldier is protected by glass and contains a hand-drawing of Chatham.

Learn about our Fifth President
The James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library is located at 908 Charles Street and contains the largest collection of artifacts and documents related to the fifth president of the United States. Relatives of James and Elizabeth Monroe believed that the small brick structure was once the site of Monroe's law office and chose the site to honor their ancestor, who was elected in 1816 with 80 percent of the electoral vote. It has since been revealed that the building is too new to have been the site of Monroe's law office, but there is no dispute that he did practice law on the same plot of land where the building stands today.

The exterior of the James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library.

James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library

Visitors will learn that Monroe was the first president to occupy the White House after it was burned by the British in the war of 1812 and that the onus was on James and his wife to help furnish the residence. A picture depicting the incident hangs on one of the walls near a piano, which dates back to the Monroe administration and is played today during special events.

Guests get a glimpse into the life and times of Monroe by following a series of panels detailing the timeline of his life and legislation he spearheaded. Artifacts on display include the 1795 desk where the Monroe Doctrine was signed, portraits of the President during various times of his life, jewelry worn by his wife Elizabeth Monroe and a bas-relief, which dates back to 1904 and was created by sculptor Karl Bitter. It served as a template for a bronze sculpture that is now displayed at the Missouri State Capitol and depicts James Monroe, Robert Livingston and Francis Barbe-Marbois signing the Louisiana Purchase treaty.

The scale model of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase was displayed at the 1904 World's Fair. 

Jewelry worn by James Monroe's wife Elizabeth.

The desk on which the Monroe Doctrine was signed. 

Unique Accommodations Offer a Step Back in Time
If you're seeking unique accommodations, go no further than Stevenson Ridge located in nearby Spotsylvania Courthouse, Virginia. I have to admit it was the coolest place I've stayed to date.

Debbie and Dan Spears own the 87-acre property and share a passion for antique structures. After the couple purchased the property in the year 2000, they began restoring antique cottages and relocating them to the property located near the Spotsylvania National battlefield. As of today, Dan has restored nine, updating them with modern conveniences while retaining the original character. "There's a lot to admire in the craftsmanship and artistry of these old buildings," he said.

The couple named their property "Stevenson Ridge" for a Union officer who was killed in the area in 1864 while commanding soldiers who fought in the Battle of Spotsylvania Court House.

The oldest building on the property dates back to 1732 and is deemed "The Spy Hill House." The two-story structure includes a master suite, a queen bed, two wood-burning fireplaces, a living room, kitchenette and a private patio overlooking the pond.

Additional renovated accommodations include a log home dating back to 1830, a tobacco barn, an 1812 plantation home, a corn crib and a renovated post office, to name a few.

When we learned that we would be staying at the Post Office, we couldn't help but be intrigued and I have to say it certainly gained our "stamp" of approval. When I later shared pictures of the place, people marveled how unique it was.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

A view of the front porch of the "Post Office."

Can't wait to get into that robe.

An old-fashioned kitchen with a newfangled Keurig.

A working stone fireplace and a coffee table hewn of wood

A view of the woods from our dining room.

The roomy, rustic living room. 

A view of the door from the inside--glad it had a peg lock because we failed at the skeleton key challenge. 

The "Post Office" bedroom, which provided a peaceful night's sleep.

The stairs to the second floor.

The front porch of The Post Office is tailor made for goofing off. 

A neighboring cabin across the way. 

The pond at Stevenson's Ridge

Another view of the neighbor's cabin

An additional shot of the exterior of the Post Office. 

Mike was blowing on the top of that milk jug, slapping his knee and singing a few minutes before I snapped this picture. 

When I started writing this post, I figured that it would be short and sweet, but it turns out that there is a lot to be said about the destinations I've detailed here. There is so much more history to discover in Fredericksburg and much more to write, but I think I'll stop now, but not before I mention Hallowed Ground Tours. Scott Walker, a retired history teacher, tailors his tours to each group he engages, so whether you have a solid knowledge of history or none at all, Walker will work with you to discover your interests and provide accordant information.

My only regret in visiting the area is that we allotted so little time to get the "full-on" Fredericksburg experience. I hear the area is beautiful during the summer, and next year we intend to find out.