A History Lesson in Delaware's Brandywine Valley

I've learned quite a bit about history during my travels over the years, and my recent trip to Delaware was no different. 

My husband and I decided to stay at the Inn at Montchanin Village & Spa in Wilmington, not only for historical reasons, (it's among the top 10 oldest hotels in the United States), but also because of its convenient location.  Each destination, from the du Pont residence of Winterthur, to the Hagley Museum and Library and historic New Castle, is located within a 10 -20 minute drive from the Inn.

The Inn at Montchanin Village & Spa

Located in Wilmington Delaware's Greenville neighborhood is the historic  Montchanin Village & Spa. which is listed on the National Historic Register. and is comprised of 11 restored buildings that house 28 guest rooms. 

The settlement, named after Alexandria de Montchanin, grandmother of the founder of the du Pont company, was once part of the Winterthur estate, and was home to laborers who once worked at the du Pont powder mills.

Our cozy cottage, named Tatnall, which we discovered was a college prep school in Wilmington,  included a sitting room, a kitchenette and a fireplace. 

The restaurant onsite, known as Krazy Kats, operates in a  renovated blacksmith's shop and serves upscale French cuisine.  It's anything but stuffy however, as you can see by the whimsical cats that festoon the walls. Krazy Kats is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and you don't need to stay at the property to dine there.

Krazy Kats is known for fine dining, with a whimsical decor. 

Learning about the Winterthur Estate

An eagle greets guests in the foyer.

Jacques Antoine and Evelina du Pont moved into Winterthur (pronounced Winter tour) in 1839 when it was merely a 12-room Greek revival manor house. When the couple passed,  their nephew Henry Algernon du Pont took over property. Algernon was accomplished in his own right, having graduated first in his class at West Point, before later serving in the Civil War and being awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor for his bravery  at the Battle of Cedar Creek.  As the years went by, the house, which sits on 950 acres, continued to be passed down through the family and thus expanded. When Henry Francis du Pont assumed ownership of the property, the horticulturist and antique collector set about turning the estate into a museum. 

To understand the formality of the estate under H.F. du Pont, I'll quote from an article that ran in American Heritage written by Walter Karp on H.F.  "He slept in a Queen Anne bedroom, breakfasted in a Newport Chippendale morning room, played bridge in a 'Chinese' Chippendale parlor, and dined in a Federal dining room. Footmen in knee breeches attended to the family, and the atmosphere at Winterthur was so icily formal that one kinsman of  'Uncle Harry' thought it 'too tony' to bear and resolved never to return again. In a family not noted for humility, Winterthur was regarded as markedly pretentious."

The museum boasts 175 period-room displays containing approximately 85,000 objects acquired by H.F., who continued to add to his collection until his death in 1969. Artifacts span two centuries of American decorative arts dating from 1640 to 1860.

When we visited in October, the museum had just opened on a limitted basis after being closed for months due to Covid. 

One of the first things we saw, on our tour of the fifth floor after leaving the foyer, was a beautiful staircase that was brought to Winterthur from a 19th-century North Carolina plantation house.

Known as the Montmorenci Stair Hall, the beautiful, free-hanging staircase was brought to Winterthur from a 19th-century North Carolina plantation house. 

A piano, which dates 1824-1833, made by Robert and William Nunn. 

Dinnerware used by George Washington. 

The Baltimore Drinking Room features wallpaper by Desfosse & Karth known as "Paysages Italien."

The Dining Room.

The Marlborough Drawing Room.

A terrace looks out over the property.

During our October visit, we also took a tram tour of the grounds to learn more about H.F.'s love of naturalist gardens. As a horticulturalist, it was important for him to select the best plants from around the world to enhance the landscape of his 60-acre garden. We saw the vibrant fall colors of the tree leaves as they turned yellow, orange and copper. Flowers like the pink autumn crocus were still blooming and crimson crabapple fruits loved by the birds lent additional color to the landscape. Visitors who wait for spring will see even more color when the hills come alive with vibrant azaleas, daffodils, bluebells, lavender, white and pink magnolias, while summer visitors will be treated to blooming daylilies, Russian sage, hydrangeas, roses and dogwoods, to name a few.

For those touring with children, Winterthur features a children's garden called the Enchanted Woods.

In her book, "The Magic of Children's Gardens," author Lolly Tai said that the garden was created as a place where children would be encouraged to use their imagination and enjoy the beauty of a naturalistic garden. A Faerie Cottage is in the center, nestled among the oaks and poplars and is, according to Tai, "the main, unifying element of the garden." As the children walk along the enchanted woods paths, Tai said, "they will encounter garden rooms that delight them." Highlights include mushrooms that spray water in the warmer months, a Fairy Flower Labyrinth, the Faerie Cottage, an 
"Acorn Tearoom," and a Troll Bridge.

The picture below appears in Tai's book and shows a child playing in the mist that emits from the Forbidden Fairy Ring and others frolicking on the Green Man's Face.

The Galleries at Winterthur

The frequently changing galleries at Winterthur are said to "enhance their permanent collection." During our visit, the main floor exhibit, "Revision 20/20, through a Women's Lens," celebrates the anniversary of the 19th amendment with items used by women who lived in the early years of the du Ponts.

Those who know me, know I love fainting couches. (I own three). So, of course, this was one of my favorite pieces in the exhibit. The fainting couch below is estimated to date back to 1815-25. It's representative of fashion in the early republic that was influenced by ancient Greek and Roman precedents. This extraordinarily preserved New York couch represents the height of fashion, as well as a "costly expression of taste and form."

A fainting couch in beautiful shape dates back to the early 1800s.

This rococo parlor stove dates back to the mid-1800s and is both practical and decorative.

An antique clock crafted in Elizabethville, Pa

Visitors who ascend to the second floor of the gallery will learn all about the "Lady of the House," Ruth Wales du Pont. Guests will learn about her love for her husband, her devotion to her daughter, her keen sense of humor and her love of music. 

It's also been revealed through diaries and private letters in the Winterthur archives, that Ruth suffered from "melancholy" and anxiety, yet was lively and gregarious in public. 

The gallery includes a reproduction of her 1916 wedding gown, personal objects like her sheet music and traveling case and more to help the observer gain an understanding of what it was like to be Ruth Wales du Pont.

The Hagley Museum

The Hagley Museum is comprised of 235 acres located along the banks of the Brandywine River and is the site of the gunpowder works founded by E.I. du Pont in 1802. Many guests think of war when they think of gunpowder, but it was used for much more, like mining and tunneling, which were extremely important in America's early years.

Guests begin their visit by checking in to the visitor's center where they can schedule a ride on a bus to take them to the powder yard to see historic stone structures that housed the manufacturing process, along with working 19th century machinery, waterwheels and turbines, black powder explosion demonstrations and more. 

The workers at the powder mill seemed to be quite happy living in their little community, according to author Glenn Porter, who wrote, The Workers' World at Hagley. The book goes on to say that the du Ponts treated their workers well. An excerpt quotes a worker as saying, "The du Ponts were so nice to us. We had no fear of any du Pont. We did respect them very much."
 

Stone structures housed the manufacturing process. 

Antique vehicles seen in the onsite barn. 

Pre-Covid, the house was available for tours, but for now, it's closed to visitors. Officials suggest checking the website in the spring. 

Five generations of du Ponts lived at the house since its completion in 1803. When the home is open for tours, visitors will see it as it was when the last family member lived there--filled with furnishings, folk art and items that the family brought from France in 1799 as well later furnishings.

The house is currently closed due to Covid. Check website for  updates. 

The back of the house.

A side building used as the first office.

The Terrace.

The Hagley Museum also hosts special events and demonstrations throughout the year. You can visit their website to learn more by clicking here.

Historic New Castle

During our stay, we made it a point to visit historic New Castle. Located six miles south of Wilmington, the old city was settled in 1651 under the leadership of Peter Stuyvesant. The walkable and quaint city features a few shops and restaurants, which includes Jessops Tavern--a must see. The building dates back 300 years and was once home to a cooper named Abraham Jessop.

How do you like THIS beer list?

I saw some people eating what looked like a delicious meatloaf while we were there.

Jessop's Tavern is open for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Other notable items for history lovers include the New Castle Court House Museum, the New Castle Historical Society and the Amstel House Museum, all of which were closed when we visited. We did take the time to walk the grounds of the cemetery there, where we saw the tombstone of George Read, signer of the Declaration of Independence.

George Read, signer of the Declaration of Independence is buried in New Castle.

There is a modicum of retail shops in New Castle too, where one can find books and antiques.

This just scratches the surface of what to see in the Brandywine Valley region, especially if you're a history lover. For more information on things to do and see, visit BrandywineValley.com .

A Weekend Trip to Electric City

The Lackawanna County Courthouse in Scranton was built in 1884.

Scrantonians have a saying: "All roads lead to Scranton." I'm not sure how true that is, but I can attest that several of my relatives called Scranton their hometown. I visited the area about three years ago seeking to set eyes on the grave of my great-grandparents on my father's side. At the time, I made the mistake of looking in the wrong town for the cemetery. Later, my dear husband did a little more investigating so we returned and this time ready to look in the right place. I'm happy to say that we found them in a little Ukrainian Orthodox resting place located near the Scranton/Taylor line.

A photo of me and great grandpop back in the day.

You can read about my great-grandfather and my first trip to the Scranton area here. 

What we also missed on that last visit was the beautiful, repurposed Lackawanna Train Station, several wineries, a meadery, an "Office" tour, some great Mofongo and the many interesting little creatures that can be seen at the Scranton Aquarium.

A Train Station Turned Hotel

Scranton started out with an agriculturally based economy, but transitioned to a mining economy in the late 1840's with the construction of the city's iron mills.This led to the manufacture of iron rails, which formerly had been imported from England. The 1850's and 1860's saw the emergence of railroad lines, including those that would form the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad, all of which contributed to Scranton's economic strength. The railroad service paved the way for coal mining and Scranton, having one of the largest stores of anthracite coal in the world, benefited from the ability to distribute the region's coal and iron products throughout the United States. As the railroad prospered, so did Scranton and the city's wood-frame train station was replaced with a Victorian-style brick station in 1864.

In 1899, the new President of the D.L.W. launched plans to remodel the entire rail line and soon plans were in the works for a new passenger station and railroad headquarters in Scranton. The new building would replace the existing brick station and a competition was held to select an architect. Kenneth Murchison's reputation preceded him and he was chosen for the job. The New York City architect was already known for train station design, having drawn up plans for terminals at Buffalo, Baltimore and Hoboken. Ground was broken in 1906 and the end result made headlines as one of the most beautiful stations in the nation. Built in the French Renaissance style, with six columns facing the front, it was an imposing structure.

The train station during the day.

The train station, which now serves the public as a Radisson Hotel, is lit up at night.

The interior was no less impressive. The two-and-a-half-stories high waiting room was capped by a barrel-vaulted ceiling of leaded glass, its walls crafted of Sienna marble and its floors of terrazzo tiles.

The station was officially dedicated on November 11, 1908, when a trainload of  D.L.&W. officials, headed by D.L.W. President William Truesdale, arrived in Scranton from New York. Following the ceremony, an open house was held to allow local citizens a glimpse of the new facility.

The ticket counter located to the right of the entrance.

The leaded glass ceiling.

Beautiful woodwork in an area which leads to the elevators.

The hotel bar.

In the early 1980's, plans were afoot by city leaders to redevelop the train station and in 1982, the building was purchased by MetroAction, a Scranton Chamber of Commerce Corporation focused on downtown development. With a combination of private, public and business funding,  a $13 million renovation was underway and in 1983 the business opened on New Years Eve as a Hilton, with musical entertainment provided by the Guy Lombardo Orchestra. A decade later, the building was purchased by DanMar Hotel Inc and now operates as a Radisson.

Learn more about the History of Railroading at Steamtown

Within walking distance from the Radisson, is a destination for those who are interested in learning more about the history and technology of steam railroading, Steamtown, located in downtown Scranton, is run by the National Park Service (NPS). The 65-acre site operates at the former Scranton yards of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad (DL&W). NPS developed Steamtown by using existing portions of the Roundhouse (dating from 1902, 1917 and 1937), as part of the museum complex, adding to it a visitor center, a theater and a technology and history museum. 

A highlight of any trip to Steamtown is a ride on the vintage train.

(Photos courtesy of the National Park Service.)

The 250-seat Surround Sound theater at Steamtown offers visitors a glimpse into the life of a railroader with its 18-minute film called “Steel and Steam.” The History Museum provides guests with a railroading timeline from the early days of rail through the 1980s. The technology museum houses a steam locomotive, caboose and boxcar and explores some of the more technical aspects of railroading from using steam, to operating signals and learning railroad jargon.

A highlight of the visit for many is the 30-minute ride on a vintage train.

To learn more about hours, prices and upcoming events, visit Steamtown’s website at https://www.nps.gov/stea/index.htm.

Lift a Glass to the Wineries

The tasting room at Lucchi Family Wine Cellars.

Scranton is home to several wineries and a meadery. Locate on Main Street is the Lucchi Family Wine Cellars located at 134 W. Main Avenue. Robert Lucchi is the son of the late Mario Lucchi and Catherine Ravioli Lucchi. His parents immigrated from Bologna, Italy to settle in Scranton in the early 1900’s where Robert learned by helping his father at a very young age. Today, Robert and his son Mark work together to bring their award-winning wine to the public.

Further down the road a bit, in Dunmore, is Space Time Mead and Cider Works. President and winemaker Dan Schreffler has won several awards, including some won at the Mazer Cup International, which Schreffler calls the "Olympics of Mead."

The tasting room at Space Time Mead and Cider Works.

Mead, one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to man, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity and Schreffler is always happy to help customers choose one that they will enjoy.

Snakes, Sharks and Psychedelic Frogs, Oh My!

Scranton is also home to a small mall called "The MarketPlace at Steamtown," where you'll find a Boscovs, Shoe Dept., Starbucks, Auntie Anne's and other chain stores, but it's not often one finds an aquarium in a mall. 

This groovy looking little guy is poisonous. As they say, "Beware of the pretty ones.

This Vietnamese Mossy Frog is bound to scare the unsuspecting.

The Electric City Aquarium & Reptile Den spans 20,000 square feet and is home to a litany of sea creatures and reptiles that captivate both young and old. During our visit, we saw frogs, more fish than I can enumerate, lizards, snakes, stingrays, and much more. Everywhere we turned there seem to be an exhibit that elicited oohs and aahs from the crowd. Below is a little taste of what to expect.

Regular hours are Monday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., excluding major holidays. Visit the website for feeding times and ticket purchases.

A Self-Guided Office Tour

Fans of the sitcom "The Office" may enjoy the self-guided walking tour that is available here at the VisitNePa.org website.  Fair warning, however. "The Office" was mostly filmed in Los Angeles. I don't want folks to visit there thinking that they'll see quite a few sites relative to the sitcom. That happened to me in Punxutawny, Pennsylvania when I visited thinking I'd see the stomping grounds of Bill Murray in Groundhog Day. I learned afterwards that Groundhog Day was mostly filmed in a town in Indiana.  However, Bill Murray is the only cast member of the film to ever visit "Punxy" after production. Back to Scranton! There are a few places in Scranton that Office fans will recognize, like watering holes and restaurants favored by the Dunder Mifflin staff like Poor Richards Pub and Alfredo's pizza cafe.

If you saw Dwight and Michael rap about Scranton being the "Electric City" and wondered what that was all about, you might be interested to learn that electric lights were introduced to the public in 1880 at Dickson Locomotive Works, which paved the way for electric streetcars. If you visit Scranton, you''ll see the gorgeous Electric City neon sign downtown and if you venture out at night, you can't miss it.

Good Eats!

Anyone who knows me well is aware of my affinity for mofongo. The Dominican Republic dish made with fried plantains and cracklings is a delicious carb bomb that I happen to love. In my area, it's hard to come across, so I didn't expect to be able to indulge in Scranton. Boy, was I surprised. Located at 1001 S. Main Avenue is Wanda's Mofongo House. I'm glad I was paying attention earlier in the day or I would have missed it. If you've never tasted mofongo, this would be a great place to order it. I thoroughly enjoyed my meal there.

Mofongo with chicharron de pollo 

If mofongo isn't your thing, you can also order items like quesadillas, pork chops, roasted chicken, steaks and seafood. Wanda's is open seven days a week for both lunch and dinner.

Another place we visited while in the area was a little off the beaten path, but we loved the outside atmosphere and the food, even though we had to park about half a mile away. 

That place, located in Simpson, Pennsylvania, is about a half-hour drive from Scranton and when we drove up to it, we were shocked, thinking perhaps a carnival was in town. Cars lined each side of the narrow street for blocks. We soon discovered that they were all there as customers of Frank's Place.  I guess they were on to something. It turns out that the old-school Italian eatery has been around and in the same family since 1968 and serves delicious, simple food for a reasonable price.

Our delicious entrees at Frank's Place in Simpson, Pa. 

Cheese-stuffed pasta.

Outside seating at Frank's Place. 

We enjoyed our trip to Scranton and found plenty to do during our all-too-short stay there and I might also mention that most places were open and operating as usual, despite Covid. My husband and I were especially glad to support the mom-and-pop operations that have taken the brunt of this pandemic. We just hope that more people will continue to do so as we transition to the winter months.