Harrisburg's Historic Fort Hunter Tells a Story of Days of Yore

A view of the Susquehanna from the Mansion grounds.

Every mansion tells a story and much can be learned from those who work diligently to keep history alive, from volunteer docents, to historical societies around the country.

The Fort Hunter Mansion, nestled along the banks of the Susquehanna River just six miles north of Pennsylvania's capital, tells a tale of the region's past and the story of a woman by the name of Margaret Meigs who led the charge to preserve it.

Thanks to Meigs' efforts, people from miles around travel to Fort Hunter to learn more about the area settled in 1725. Named "Hunters Mill," after Samuel Hunter, a pioneer who owned a grist mill in the area, the settlement thrived for years until the French and Indian War threatened its existence. To protect the area, the British built a series of forts stretching from Harrisburg to Sunbury. "Fort Hunter," as it came to be known, was built in a bend along the river in 1756 and served as a supply depot and alarm station.

The Mansion at Fort Hunter

In the spring of 1787, Archibald McAlister of Londonderry Township, purchased the property from John and Mary Garber and turned it into a thriving frontier village. McAlister's many business pursuits included distilling and selling alcoholic beverages in cities like Philadelphia. Upon Archibald's passing, his son John took over the property. John served as the first captain of the Dauphin County Cavalry and played a prominent role in the building of the Pennsylvania Canal.

In 1870, Daniel Dick Boas of Harrisburg assumed ownership of the property. Boas owned a lumberyard in Shipoke and served as President of the Harrisburg School Board for 18 years. Boas School on Sixth Street in the city was named after the civic-minded individual who met an untimely death in a carriage accident at age 62. The property received little TLC until Boas' daughter Helen married John Whitehill Reily and the couple moved in to begin married life in the stately mansion that overlooked the river. It remained in the family for years until a niece by the name of Margaret Meigs decided to turn the property into a museum by creating a foundation to preserve its history after the death of her Aunt Helen and Uncle John.

Meigs, a woman of means, raised her own family in a five-story townhouse on M Street in Washington, D.C., which was once the resident of Alice Longworth, Theodore Roosevelt's eldest daughter. Energetic and generous of her time, Meigs served on the board of trustees for the Sidwell Friends School, was a founder and president of the Women's National Democratic Club and served on numerous other boards as well. Her husband, Edward, worked as a physiologist with the Bureau of Dairy Industry in the federal Department of Agriculture.

When Aunt Helen and Uncle John Reily passed, Margaret inherited part of the Fort Hunter property. Meigs, who enjoyed spending time with them on picnics and outings on the property, wanted to do something special with the property due to her sentimental attachment to the area. She approached her cousins with an idea and on April 20, 1933, it opened to the public as a museum.

The first directors of the foundation were Margaret, her four children, her sister's daughter and prominent Harrisburg attorney Spencer G. Hall. The mission of the foundation was to operate Fort Hunter as a "living history museum" to represent a comfortable high/middle-class home of the late 18th and 19th centuries. Author Carl A. Dickson, who wrote, "Fort Hunter Mansion and Park, a Guide, said, "In opening the museum, Margaret had the opportunity to experiment in the creation of historical period rooms, using the many raw ingredients existing in the house from the various Reily and Meigs homes. Because of the overwhelming number of items from the second half of the nineteenth century, she decided that the interiors of the mansion would reflect the early Victorian period."

According to Dickson, Meigs quickly became an 'evangelist' for the museum, taking on speaking engagements to share the history with others. She hired photographers for stills and postcards of the attractive property and developed slogans to spread the word. Two of the most oft-used slogans were: "Fort Hunter: Where the Blue Mountains Cross the Susquehanna," and "Fort Hunter: Where Godey's Ladey's Book Comes to Life." (Learn more about "Godey's Lady's Book here.)

Meigs' trips from Washington, D.C. eventually became fewer and fewer as she grew older and in 1958, she died in her home on M Street. On "Fort Hunter Day" in 1960, her children placed a memorial on the property--a birdbath constructed of handmade tiles and bricks from her demolished Washington home.

Memorial to Meigs placed at Fort Hunter by her children

Through a series of twists and turns too numerous to mention here, Dauphin County took control of the property in 1980 when 38 acres, the buildings, the endowment fund and their contents were transferred from the Fort Hunter Foundation. The county still strives to maintain the property's historical integrity as Meigs intended.

Today mansion guests are invited to view a short film on the history of the area before being escorted through the Federal style mansion where they can view many original furnishings depicting life during a simpler era.

Visitors will view a short film here before proceeding through the rest of the house.

Parlor in the Fort Hunter Mansion--Note the picture back in the era when boys were pink dresses and girls wore blue.

Master Bedroom with bathing basin near the fireplace.

Outside kitchen and antique implements like the cabbage shredder pictured below.

A walking tour of the grounds offers magnificent views of the Susquehanna and a centuries-old Buttonwood Tree towers over the property. An old ice house located behind the mansion was built in 1814 and an impressive Centennial Barn built in 1876 and once used for a dairy operation, is located directly across the street. Also present on the property is the Spring House built around the year 1800 and a Tavern House thought to be the oldest structure on the property.

The Centennial Barn

The Tavern

A Perry County covered bridge Meigs saved from demolition.

The self-guided grounds tour is free and the 45-minute mansion tour costs $5. "It makes for a nice little outing without having to spend a lot of money," said Park Manager, Julia Hair.

Upcoming events:

From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. from September 7 through September 30, the Pennsylvania State Historic and Museum Commission will be conducting an archeological expedition. This is the 10th year for the free event where state archeologists search for artifacts dating back to the 1700s, as well as objects from prehistoric Indians. Members of the public are invited to observe.

From September 11 to September 13, Dauphin County will host its annual Jazz & Wine fest on the grounds of Fort Hunter Park from 4 to 9 p.m. each evening and on September 18, the annual free autumn festival will take place from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. On tap: a craft show, children's activities, exhibits, music and more. 

Additional upcoming events can be seen here. 

"American Treasure Tour" Delights Guests with Extensive Collection of Americana

Tucked away in a nondescript warehouse in Montgomery County not far from the Valley Forge National Historical Park is an extensive collection of Americana that has been delighting visitors since opening in 2010.

The unique assemblage of antiques, kitsch and pop art housed in an old B.F. Goodrich tire plant, spans 100,000 square feet and is owned by a mysterious man who eschews the limelight. "He prefers to remain anonymous to allow the collection to take the spotlight," said Treasure Tour Director Virginia Frey.  
Although the collection itself is whimsical, viewing it on a whim is not. Groups are favored, so a bit of pre-planning may be required in order to take the 90-minute tour. With that in mind, I suggest reaching out to others who may be similarly intrigued, like social meetup groups, for instance.
Music Collection Strikes a High Note with Visitors
Guides greet guests at the front door of the warehouse and lead them up a set of stairs to an expansive room containing one of the largest collections of mechanical music machines in the world.

Music Machines Galore

The "Encore Automatic Banjo" dates back to 1897

The Double Violano-Virtuoso made by the Mills Novelty Company

Player Piano with rare drum attachment

Nickelodeons, calliopes, PianOrchestras, player pianos, dancehall organs and massive band hall organs all spring to life via a modern-day iPad operated by a tour guide. Colorful lights blinking in time with the music may conjure up an image of great-grandparents enjoying themselves at an amusement park or dance hall so many years ago.
Many guests express amazement at the pristine condition of the machines. The oldest of them, deemed the "Mills Violano-Virtuoso Double Violin," dates back to 1897 and is a beautiful piece of equipment. Those rich enough to part with five cents back then could observe the two violins playing a tune, with the assistance of small, electric-powered rollers manipulating the strings. The impressive invention struck quite a chord in the music world and was named one of the "Eight Great Inventions of the Decade," by the United States Patent Office. It was was just one of the curiosities displayed at the World's Fair in Seattle in 1909.
A two-tiered arranger's piano like the one below is on display and was owned by J. Lawrence Cook, one of the most prolific piano roll artists in history. The instrument was used to compose approximately 20,000 recordings. 

A hulking piece of equipment will undoubtedly intrigue movie buffs. Guests can sit at the 2,500-pound machine and manipulate the piano-like pedals to produce up to 35 sounds like horns, bird tweets, train whistles and more. Only 100 of the rarities still survive and a dozen of them are owned by the mysterious collector.

A music collection would be incomplete without a selection of music boxes. Before being whisked off on a tram to the second half of the tour, guests are permitted to inspect a collection on loan from the

International Music Box Society. The machines, which play through the use of punched paper, punched disks and pinned cylinders, predate electrically amplified music and the selection comes from various parts of the world.The one directly below hails from Bavaria. 

Riding the Tram

During the second half of the tour, guests are whisked hither and yon through the warehouse, hardly knowing where to look first--up, down, side to side? Blink and you'll miss something. Car aficionados will enjoy the diverse selection of automobiles, ranging from the 1905 Franklin, to the 1905 Curved-Dash Oldsmobile, a 1914 Woods Mobilette, a 1914 Liberty Brush with wooden axles and a 1922 Stanley Steamer. And guests can only guess where the collector acquired the 1934 Buick, complete with bullet hole and suicide doors.A 1908 Sears Motorbuggy is interesting in that it was ordered via the famous "Sears Catalog" for $395 and arrived at customers' homes unassembled. A 1929 "Whippet" on display is a precursor to the modern-day Jeep and a 1909 ABC is one of only three known to exist. Early ads I discovered described the car as a "fine hill climber with speeds up to 35 miles per hour. Air or water cooled, with solid, or pneumatic tires." I also found this interesting video on how the Stanley Steemer operates at this link.

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A 1917 Model T Huckster

The tram continues with a journey through the "toy box," revealing a jaw-dropping selection of old store "animatons," which come to life as the tram rolls down the aisles. A life-sized Steiff elephant waves its ears and clowns entertain the crowd around with jumps, flips and rolls. Carnival memorabilia, including calliopes and carousels activated by the guide, add to the festive atmosphere on this half of the tour.

It's hard to believe that only half of the collection is on display. The other half is currently in storage, according to Frey. "We are always adding new things to the collection so that people feel like it's a different tour each time they visit," she said.

An extensively decorated dollhouse is just one of the curiosities in the "toy box"

Modern-day pieces also made their way into the collection. Whether it's a fiberglass cow by the name of Cowlamity Jane, a 20-foot-tall high-heeled pump from a since-cancelled cable show called "Wedding Central," a five-foot tall head of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ws-Kp2aLcEcAlbert Einstein, or a miniature tableau of pop icons made with found objects--one thing's for sure--it all seems to fit within the wacky and whimsical world within the warehouse.

To learn more, visit their website at http://americantreasuretour.com//

Learning about the Life of My Coal-Mining Great-Grandfather on a Visit to Scranton, Pa

I remember little about my great-grandfather Ignatz Kalina. I have but one picture of him--a fading black-and-white photo of the two of us, sitting together on a couch, in what, I assume, is his living room in Taylor, Pennsylvania. A word to the young: Question your relatives and embrace curiosity because one day you may cherish that information and it may not be at your fingertips.

A few years ago I took the time to do some research on the internet about  "Pop" Kalina and found a miner's certificate from Moffat Coal. To this day I can't seem to locate it, so any recommendations on how to find it would be greatly appreciated.

Through the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission (PHMC), I did find his name on a list of mining accidents. While working as a trackman's helper in his '40s, he was struck in the jaw when a bar slipped. Evidently, he advanced in his profession to become a full-fledged miner, certified to work with explosives only later in life.  "Pop" Kalina, who arrived in this country with his bride Paulina, (yes, I got a laugh out of the fact that her first and last name rhyme, in the "Americanized" pronunciation), lived to be 86 years old. The man who toiled in the damp, dark, recesses of the earth for many years, was, by accounts, hale and hearty (as they would say in the old days), and managed to escape the perils of black lung--a condition that struck down so many of those who worked in his profession.

Me and "Pop" Back in the Day

When an editor asked me to visit the Scranton region for an upcoming article, I decided to take advantage of the opportunity to learn more about Ignatz and what it was like to live the life of a coal miner. 

The first stop on my path to discovery was Eckley Miners' Village. This fine example of a typical coal "patch town" tells a story of how the miners lived when coal was king. Located a bit off the beaten path in Weatherly, Pennsylvania, the "ghost town" is now maintained by the PHMC as a historical site dedicated to educating the public about coal-mining life. 

There my husband and I viewed a short film as told through the eyes of a coal miner. Afterward, we strolled around the small museum, which gave us insight into each job performed by those who worked in the mines, from the nippers to the breaker boys and the miners themselves.

Young boys were forced to grow up early in the mining community. There were no "pajama boys," whining about their plight way back when. These pictures of haunted faces are telling and should shame those who have it so much better.

Those who thought mining paid well for the era might be interested to know that many were forced to shop at the "company store" for goods sold at elevated prices. Suddenly the old Tennessee Ernie Ford song seemed to make sense. 

The exhibits portrayed the day-to-day existence of the miner and his family, describing seasonal duties and painting a portrait of a hardscrabble life. Being married to a miner couldn't have been easy, with common stories like the one associated with the picture below. At least the wives were encouraged to think "good thoughts" when they cobbled together a family dinner. (Note the stove brand.)

Outside, visitors can stroll the Eckley area with a docent, or drive through the village. The planned community was arranged by social status from east to west. Miners and their families lived on the east side in double homes and engineers lived farther west in single-family homes. The mine owner resided farthest west at the opposite end of town. 

Pic. 1: Main Street in Eckley
Pic. 2: Presbyterian Church circa 1854
Pic. 3: Double Home in which coal miners raised their families
Pic. 4: A 1968 re-creation of a Breaker which stood near the site of one of the three original breakers. 

In 1970, Hollywood came calling and a cast and crew arrived in Weatherly to film "The Molly Maguires," a gritty movie based on a true story about Irish coal miners and corporate exploitation.The visit to Eckley was insightful and I was ready to learn more at the Lackawanna County Coal mine where my great-grandfather used to work as an employee of Moffat Coal. I can't help but admit it was a bit of a thrill to walk the same path he walked oh so many years ago. Tours are offered between April 1 and November 1 and are conducted frequently throughout the day.

After we parked in the ample lot, we walked a few minutes to the main center where staff provided us with tickets, a hair net and a hard hat. We were then invited to watch a short film about coal mining and browse the small gift shop while waiting the call for the tour to start.

When it was our turn, we joined about 25 others and piled into a bright yellow car to make our descent into the mine. I have to say I had a few butterflies plunging slowly down that deep hill into darkness, but hey, I'm supposedly built of good stock, so I stuffed that down and sucked it up. When we arrived at the bottom and were permitted to exit the car, I breathed a sigh of relief.

Our descent into the mine

Our guide led us through the mine, describing various duties performed by the workers. We learned that in 1902, the certified rates paid for laborers were 18 cents an hour and breaker boys earned 13 cents--the same as mule drivers. Engineers made $78 a month and nippers were paid the least at 11 cents an hour, likely due to their young age.

We also learned that mine workers had to always be on guard, especially for electrocution hazards. Our guide relayed a story about a mule whose ear touched a wire and he was struck dead on the spot, landing on the damp ground with a sickening thud. Perhaps this is why earwear like this was eventually employed. This picture of a mule hate was taken at the Anthracite Heritage Museum. 

A mule hat to protect the mules from being accidentally electrocuted

As we made our way through the mine, we peered into the bosses office carved from earth  and looking rather, shall we say, rustic? I still imagine "Pop" Kalina peering in and waving a friendly hello here and there.

A miner and his mule

At the end of the tour, we were all given a "mining certificate," earned by doing little but observing how those who were ready, willing and able to contribute to the fabric and success of America by assimilation, grit, hard work and determination. I left feeling thankful and a deep debt of gratitude to those who came before--for their intestinal fortitude, pride and their work ethic and am very proud to count my great-grandfather among that group of fine men.

Discover Art, Antiques, Shops and More in "Quirky" Lambertville

Nestled along the banks of the Delaware River is the scenic city of Lambertville, New Jersey. Despite being named by Forbes as "one of the prettiest small towns in America,"it's often overlooked by vacationers who are dazzled  by the neighboring artisan enclave of New Hope, Pennsylvania, which is located just across the the bridge.

Founded in 1705, the gem of a town offers practically everything New Hope touts, from boutique shops, to art galleries and restaurants. Comparing the two, I'd describe Lambertville as "less hippy, more relaxed." I'd be remiss if I failed to mention that it's also quieter. The motorcyclists have yet to figure out that there are cool places just right across the bridge and I'd like to keep it that way. And before anyone casts aspersions on my age due to that remark, I have only one thing to say: "Get off my lawn!"

But as I was saying, there are many reasons to visit Lambertville, not the least of which is its uniqueness. In addition to being named one of the prettiest small towns in 2013, the area was also ranked one of the five "quirkiest" towns--a distinction bestowed in 2014 by Travel & Leisure magazine.

Finding Your Way Around
Visitors will encounter old and interesting sites while strolling around town. As a first order of business Melanie Tucker, owner of "Rare Finds Travel," recommends scheduling a free walking tour hosted by the Lambertville Historical Society.

Presbyterian Cemetery spotted along the street. Holcombe and Coryell monuments.

Finkle's Hardware Store--serving Lambertville since 1917.

"On the tour, visitors will see things like the Cowin Stone mansion built by the mayor of Lambertville and the owner of Stoneworks.  He engaged Italian stone makers to hand cut each stone on site. Guests will also learn about another homeowner who operated a spoke factory and went on to become wealthy due to the Civil War," said Tucker, adding, "Lambertville provided many of the spokes that were affixed to the caissons that carried the cannons for the Union Army."

The hour-long tours start at 2:00 p.m. and are offered on the first Sunday of the month from April through November. Learn more here.

Galleries Galore
Lambertville is known for its collection of art, a reputation that has continued for over a century when an artist colony was formed there. Behold the bold, colorful paintings of artist Tony La Salle at his gallery at the corner of Bridge and Main, discover unique pieces at The River Queen Artisans' Gallery on Church, or set aside some time to stroll through Jim's of Lambertville to view a remarkable collection of impressionist paintings.

If you're a fan of old, re-purposed buildings, you'll also enjoy A Mano Galleries, where you'll find a variety of artwork, including one-of-a-kind gifts and sculptures like the one shown below.

A Mano Galleries

Sculpture at A Mano

"The Antique Capital of New Jersey"

Also known as the "antique capital of New Jersey," Lambertville is home to myriad antique shops, including The People's Store. Those who are passionate about all things old can get lost in the four-story building which dates back to 1835. Treasure hunters will enjoy inspecting every nook and cranny of the place which houses a collection of items from scores of dealers. Among the eclectic array you'll find furnishings, art, period clothing, jewelry and more.

Sign at The People's Store

The Dining Scene
Restaurants are plentiful and appeal to a variety of tastes. Jump start your morning with a great cuppa Jo at Rojo's Roastery, a business which specializes in roasting beans procured from small farms across the globe.

For an indulgent lunch, step inside an old train station and enjoy American cuisine at the Lambertville Station Restaurant. Situated along the banks of the Delaware, the eatery offers scenic views and a menu to suit a variety of tastes.

Those who prefer to "grab and go" can enjoy the signature Italian Roast Pork served at DiNapoli's restaurant on Kline's court. You may recognize the name from the Reading Terminal Market where they've been a fixture for years.

For dinner, I can't say enough about Anton's at the Swan, which marries old-school atmosphere with upscale dining.

Swan Creek near Anton's at the Swan

Hubby at Anton's at the Swan

Filet of beef at Anton's at the Swan

The low-lit and elegantly appointed dining room make it a perfect place to take your date. When we visited, quite a few couples were enjoying the romantic atmosphere. The farm-to-table cuisine is handled expertly by Chef Chris Connors and the menu changes seasonally. Current selections include New York Strip, chicken breast, pan-roasted duck, filet of beef and red snapper, to name a few. My filet was done to perfection and my husband thoroughly enjoyed his duck as well.

Stay in the Heart of Downtown

For convenience, we chose to stay at the Lambertville House . Built by Captain John Lambert in 1812, the business initially operated as Lambert's Inn--a stagecoach stop that provided lodging for U.S. presidents, including Andrew Johnson and Ulysses S. Grant. The Inn also offered respite for visiting dignitaries and business leaders who traveled the main thoroughfare from New York to Philadelphia.

The historic hotel has been awarded the AAA Award of Excellence for the past 15 years and each room contains a fireplace, robes and jetted tubs. The only complaint we had during our visit is that we were forced to park off the property during part of our stay due to a corporate event. Parking is extremely limited,so be sure to query in advance.

The Lambertville House

These are just a few of my suggestions for an enjoyable stay in Lambertville and now is a great time of year to visit the laid-back little town that seems to offer a little something for everyone.