48 Hours in Pittsburgh: Making the Most of Every Moment

Located in Western Pennsylvania and situated at the confluence of the Monongahela, Allegheny and Ohio Rivers, the scenic city of Pittsburgh is basks in well-deserved accolades as a must-see destination.

Harper’s Bazaar named it one of the Best Places to Travel for its award-winning restaurants, vibrant arts and culture scene, and world-class accommodations.

Choosing from among the many attractions is the difficult part, but getting there is easy. Most destinations are located within 20 minutes of the downtown area. Less time commuting and more time enjoying is certainly a plus when schedules are tight during a short getaway.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

Omni William Penn

First-time guests of the Omni William Penn Hotel are often mesmerized by the beauty of the opulent lobby, with its crystal chandeliers, oversized archways, and a floor that mingles marble from seven different countries. Built by Pittsburgh industrialist Henry Clay Frick and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the hotel dates back to 1916 and still exudes much of that old-world charm. The icing on the cake is that it’s conveniently located within a short drive of many destinations.

There are a number of activities to enjoy while staying at the Omni, from kayaking, to biking, to touring and dining at any of the restaurants perched atop the Duquesne Incline. No visit is complete without a trip to Grandview Avenue’s Mount Washingtons' Restaurant Row, where diners are treated to spectacular views of downtown, especially as the sun sets.

The Omni also provides guests with its own dining options, from the elegantly appointed and upscale Terrace Room, with its original molded plaster ceiling and mahogany arches and creative American cuisine, to the more casual Taproom. Once deemed “The Continental,” the Taproom dates back to 1934 and is one of two “Repealatoriums” that opened in the hotel after Prohibition ended.

Tucked away beneath the stairs of the grand lobby is another celebratory toast to the end of Prohibition. The Speakeasy, named among the 12 Most Essential Bars by Thrillist, with its cozy ambiance and plush red-velvet décor is a welcome respite for guests seeking a place to relax with their favorite libation.  

Taking a Tour

Pittsburgh is all about choices and finding a tour tailored to one’s interests is as easy as consulting a concierge, or AI these days.

The one-hour Gateway Clipper tour traverses the three rivers and treats visitors to a beautiful view of the city, while providing them a unique glimpse into Pittsburgh’s past and future via onboard narrators. It’s a 15-minute walk from the hotel and an interesting way to view the architecture of the city and our bridges.

For the foodie, there’s “Burgh Bits and Bites," which takes guests on a walking tour to their choice of several different neighborhoods, including Pittsburgh’s acclaimed Strip District. The excursion convenes in Old St. Patrick’s Church courtyard. Sylvia McCoy, tour founder, offers guests a “behind-the-counter” peek at a variety of eateries in Pittsburgh’s market district. “The Strip District features an array of cuisines, from Asian, to Polish, Greek, Italian, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, all on one street,” she says.

And no trip to Pittsburgh is complete without a ride on the famous Duquesne Incline, which is a historic funicular railway located at 1197 W. Carson Street.  The Incline was designed by Samuel Diesher, a Hungarian-American civil engineer based in Pittsburgh and was completed in 1877 It offers scenic views of the city and its three rivers, including the Allegheny, Ohio and Monongahela.  

An Insider Tip: Exit the incline, turn to the right and head up the hill to view the spectacular “Point of View” sculpture, which features George Washington and the Seneca leader Guyasuta. It conveys what their face-to-face meeting may have been like in 1770 while Washington was in the area examining land for future settlement along the Ohio River. The two-minute walk from the Incline is worth it for the unobstructed view of the skyline alone.

George Washington and Seneca Leader Guy Asuta.

Nature, History and Art Abound in Oakland

One can spend an entire day in Oakland soaking in the exhibits at Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, Carnegie Museum of Art and the Carnegie Museum of Natural History. All are conveniently located within walking distance of each other, making it easy to mix and match as time permits.

Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens

Phipps dates back to 1893 and is often described as one of Pittsburgh’s “crown jewels.” Visitors are often in awe of the striking botanical displays, many of which change throughout the year. Phipps Conservatory is also one of those places you can visit multiple times each year for their seasonal flower shows.

Phipps also has the distinction of being LEED™ platinum certified. Designed to be the greenest building in the world, Phipps generates all of its own energy and treats storm and sanitary water on site.

The Children’s Discovery Garden is a big hit with the kids and is designed to attract birds, butterflies, and bees. It also includes a bog garden, a sensory garden, and outdoor spaces to entertain and enlighten the youngsters.

Allocate approximately 90 minutes to tour the indoor and outdoor gardens, which feature stunning displays of plants ranging from palm trees, to orchids, bonsai and cacti, to name just a few.

Insider Tip: To avoid crowds, plan to visit on a Monday or Tuesday.

Carnegie Museum of Art

It’s easy to spend hours roaming the halls of the Carnegie Museum of Art (CMOA), so if this destination is at the top of your list, you may wish to get an early start by visiting when doors open at 10 a.m.

The impressive collection exists courtesy of Andrew Carnegie, a wealthy industrialist/philanthropist and proud Pittsburgher who envisioned opening up the art world to all segments of society.

The 110,570-foot space is comprised of 33 galleries which feature approximately 1,800 works of art at any given time.  Painting and sculpture, prints and drawings, photographs, architectural casts and film and video are all represented under one roof, ensuring that the museum offers something for every taste.

Artists run the gamut from Van Gogh, to Matisse, Picasso, Warhol and more.

A unique exhibit featuring a piece of furniture that is universally pressed into service is the chair collection, which celebrates the diversity of chair design from the 17^th Century to the present.

Also notable is the cast of the West Portal of Saint-Gilles-du-Gard located in the Hall of Architecture. Paid for by Andrew Carnegie at the recommendation of art experts, it is said to be the largest architectural cast ever made.

The Carnegie Museum of Natural History

Adjacent to the CMOA is the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, also founded by Andrew Carnegie. Ranked among the top five natural history museums in the United States, it boasts a collection of 22 million specimens, 10,000 of which are on view at any given time.

The family friendly destination features an array of dinosaurs and mammals, fossils, mummies and more, which are sure to intrigue guests of all ages.

Don’t miss the Hall of Gems for a dizzying array of rocks and minerals.

Insider Tip: The price of admission to both museums is reduced to half off after 3 p.m. on weekdays.

These are just a few of the many options available in a city where choices abound and making the most of every moment is limited only by the imagination of the visitor.

Photo Credits:

Gateway Clipper (with picture of bridge) Courtesy: Gateway Clipper/Visit Pittsburgh

Omni William Penn, Courtesy: Omni Hotels and Resorts

Duquesne Incline: Credit: Richard Nowitz

Bologna, Breweries, History and More in Lebanon County Pa

When planning a vacation the weather warms, it’s easy to dream of far-off destinations. But sometimes there are interesting experiences located less than a tank of gas away. Such was the case recently when I took a trip to Lebanon County and was surprised to uncover a wealth of attractions that were entirely new to me.

Walking Tours

Most all of us are familiar with Seltzers Lebanon Bologna, but did you know that you can tour their facilities located on Railroad Street in Palmyra? Guests can begin their experience at the outlet store where Lebanon bologna is sold in every iteration, from hot or sweet jerky bites, to pre-sliced packets and the newest product, double-smoked slices. If there’s a bologna lover on your list, there are gift boxes available as well.

After visiting the shop, guests will move to a second building to view a short film where they will learn about the story of Harry Seltzer, an entrepreneurial German immigrant who founded the business in 1902.

The tour continues with a visit to a small museum of company artifacts, followed by a walk to the rear smokehouses located in a narrow alley where employees produce an impressive 100,000 pounds of bologna a week.

Smokehouses are located in a small alley in a residential location.

Lebanon bologna being manufactured.

Fun fact: 750,000 end pieces are donated weekly to local charities.

Another walking tour takes place at the Cornwall Iron Furnace where guests learn about the only surviving intact charcoal cold-blast furnace in the Western Hemisphere. The 45-minute tour of the complex offers a glimpse into the iron industry’s role in American history where iron was produced to make everything from household tools, to Revolutionary War cannons. During the tour guests will also learn about the people who played a part in the industry.

Visitors take photos of the large furnace that consumed an acre of trees a day.

Fun Fact: The furnace consumed an acre of trees a day to fuel its operations.

History lovers also enjoy yet another tour--this time at the Lebanon County Historical Society located on 924 Cumberland Street. The three-story museum is packed with local artifacts like an antique printing press, old organs, a selection of elaborately decorated fire engine hose carts, vintage photos of Haak’s Department store once located in downtown Lebanon and so much more.

Antique fire engine hose cart.

A school house inside the historical society.

Fun fact: On display is an iron cradle from Cornwall (of course). It was made for Margaret Coleman Buckingham who was the last owner of the Cornwall Mansion. Beneath the cradle is a compartment for a heated stone to be placed, which radiated heat to keep the baby warm.

An iron cradle has an area for a heated stone to keep the baby warm.

Axes, Forges and Mead, Oh My!

Who says malls aren’t happening? At the Lebanon Valley Mall you’ll find The Drunken Smithy where you can take on the role of blacksmith. The forge area spans approximately 2,500 square feet and provides all the tools necessary for customers to create their own metal projects under the guidance of skilled blacksmiths. Tools like hammers, tongs, anvils, power hammers and hydraulic presses are all available for customers to bring their projects to completion.

My husband (left) takes direction from one of the owners of The Drunken Smithy.

Outside of the forge area are stalls where customers can try their hand at hitting a target with an ax, before retiring to a picnic table to enjoy hand-crafted mead, ciders and other beverages.

Fun Fact: One of the owners formerly worked at the Renaissance Faire and is planning a Viking Mead Fest to take place this summer. Slated for the end of July, it will feature street performers, scavenger hunts, venders and more.

Take In Nature's Beauty

Up to 200,000 snow geese stop at The Middle Creek Wildlife Management area every spring.(Photo taken by Melody Mellinger)

                                              

Nature lovers will enjoy The Middle Creek WildlifeManagement Area located at 100 Museum Road in Stevens. The sanctuary for birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts is a prime area to view birds, ducks, dragonflies, butterflies and more. A wall of windows inside the visitor’s center enables guests to view the action from a seat which comes equipped with its own set of binoculars.

Fun Fact: Up to 200,000 snow geese stop here in the spring on their migratory pattern heading north to the Arctic breeding grounds.

Behold the Beauty of St. Luke’s

St. Luke's Episcopal Church

One of Lebanon’s most stunning landmarks is the St. Luke’s Episcopal Church at 22 S. 6th Street. The walls of the church are made of native bluestone from the Carmany Quarry in South Lebanon and red sandstone from quarries in Schaefferstown and Cornwall. The great tower rises to 85 feet above the pavement. A turret on the east rises an additional 17 feet, making it the highest point in the city of Lebanon. Construction on the church began in 1879 and services are still held today.

Fun Fact: Eight red sandstone gargoyles extend four feet from the building and act as spouts directing water away from the structure.

Fans of history, nature, architectural beauty and hands-on adventures will more than likely enjoy a getaway to this special area. For me it signifies that sometimes the most interesting and enriching activities are often found in my own backyard.

Charmed by Chestnut Hill--Philly's Best Kept Secret

Nestled on the northwestern edge of Philadelphia, Chestnut Hill beckons to those seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life. With its cobblestone streets, cozy cafes, lush gardens, bountiful boutiques and burgeoning arts scene, this walkable neighborhood is tailor made for a weekend getaway to relax and recharge.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

The historic hotel dates back to the 1800s and its evolution can be seen in the photos that were posted in the elevator.

Our room was spacious and comfortable.

Using the the Chestnut Hill Hotel located at 8220 Germantown Avenue as a central location allows the the convenience of a large, free parking lot. It’s an ideal basecamp for daily strolls to the many shops and restaurants in the area.

A Growing Art Museum

A large sculpture in front of the Woodmere.

Also located on Germantown Avenue is the Woodmere Art Museum. Housed in a historic building that once belonged to founder and avid art collector Charles Knox Smith, the museum touts approximately 8,000 works, showcasing the talents of the many artists who call Philadelphia their home.

Outdoors, visitors can explore the museum’s growing sculpture collection known collectively as Woodmere’s Outdoor Wonder (WOW). Guests can take advantage of the opportunity to scan QR codes to learn more about each piece.

The exterior of the Woodmere Art Museum (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

A highlight with ties to Harrisburg is an exhibit by Violet Oakley, who is known for her 43 murals which festoon the walls of the Capitol building.

Violet Oakley artwork.

Edge of a Forest on the Susquehanna River by Edmund Darch Lewis

The Woodmere is among the elite three percent of U.S. museums accredited by the American Alliance of Museums, a recognition of its commitment to excellence. Recently, it announced the acquisition of a nearby building and four additional acres for expanded gallery space and outdoor exhibits. Officials expect an October/November 2025 opening.

Flora and Fauna

Beautiful blooms are in abundance. (Photo: Cynthia Schemmer, Courtesy of UPenn)

Nature lovers will enjoy the Morris Arboretum and Gardens, a 92-acre oasis that’s part of the University of Pennsylvania. The private estate of siblings John and Lydia Morris, the property was transformed from desolate land in the late 1800s, into a verdant landscape with plants from around the world. It became a public arboretum in 1933 after Lydia’s passing.

Morris Arboretum is home to 17 "champion trees." (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District )

Home to 17 "champion" trees--recognized as outstanding specimens in Pennsylvania—the grounds include a rare katsura tree and a grove of dawn redwoods once thought extinct.

Designed with inspiration from English parks and Japanese gardens, the arboretum features a lovely swan pond and scenic overlooks. Morris also hosts educational programs designed for both kids and adults on art, wellness, botany, birding, and more.

Bountiful blooms at the Morris Arboretum (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

Another natural retreat is Wissahickon Valley Park located at 120 Northwestern Avenue. With 50 miles of trails, the 1,800-acre park is perfect for a picnicking, walking, biking and wildlife watching.  On any given day one is likely to see wildflowers, deer and perhaps the occasional fox.

Shopping Along Germantown Avenue

I purchased a memoir written by Anthony Bourdain's assistant at Booked.

Germantown Avenue is home to many boutique shops, each offering something unique. At the Antique Gallery at 8523 Germantown Avenue, you may meet Gerald Schultz, a man with a passion for the decorative arts. Schultz established the business in the 1980s and enjoys offering information about his many interesting and beautiful pieces. During my visit, he introduced me to a striking Art Deco-style Longwy service in earthenware cloisonné enamel. I learned that Longwy is a French town known for its enameling techniques.

The Antique Shop can be seen here with the green awning. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

A Longwy service at The Antique Gallery.

Art enthusiasts will also enjoy browsing the street’s many other galleries—there are at least seven along the avenue. Since I own a Britto and two Peter Max paintings, these two works caught my eye and were for sale at Moondance Farm Studios.

A piece by Romero Britto.

Peter Max painting

Food and Drink

McNally's Tavern is a popular spot for the locals. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

No trip to Chestnut Hill is complete without a visit to McNally’s Tavern at 8634 Germantown Avenue. McNally’s is viewed as an institution in Chestnut Hill. The eatery dates back to 1921 when Rose O’Brien McNally, wife of a trolley conductor, opened “McNally’s Quick Lunch” in a small steel building across from its current location. The eatery was a respite for Philadelphia Rapid Transit workers and local laborers.

In 1927, the eatery expanded to where it is today, serving spirits and beer after the repeal of prohibition. Today the landmark, run by Anne and Meg McNally, is a testament to their great-grandmother’s legacy. Known for its signature Schmitter sandwich made with steak, cheese, fried onions, tomatoes, cooked salami, and "Schmitter sauce,” it is served on a kaiser roll.

Adelinas Restaurant and Bar is another standout located on Germantown Avenue. The Italian eatery opened in 2022 by brothers Antonio and Giuliano Presta and is named after their grandmother. The menu features traditional Italian fare made with locally sourced ingredients. Popular dishes include stuffed focaccia, chicken parmesan and a porterhouse topped with black truffle butter.

Adelinas, located next door to the Chestnut Hill Hotel, serves a variety of Italian dishes (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

After dinner, enjoy a nightcap at Char & Stave located at 8441 Germantown Avenue. The coffeehouse/cocktail bar hybrid was founded by Jared Adkins who applied his whisky-making talent to the art of coffee roasting.

Coffee and cocktails are available at Char & Stave. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District.)

There's also Wednesday night trivia held from 7-9 p.m.at the Chestnut Hill Brewing Co., where guests can engage in friendly competition for a prize.

Wednesday night is trivia night at Chestnut Hill Brewing Co.

Customers also like gathering around the fire at Chestnut Hill Brewing Co. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

For breakfast, head to CAKE, a place so popular that people queue up early to wait in line for employees to open the place. The bright, airy eatery housed in a converted Victorian greenhouse, is known for its baked goods and its brioche French toast with honey butter and spiced pecans. The business also serves up hearty lunch options like Philly cheesesteak marsala.

Cake is an eatery in a repurposed Victorian greenhouse (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

Whether you're wandering through fragrant gardens, admiring local art, savoring a Schmitter at a historic tavern, or browsing boutique shops, Chestnut Hill offers the perfect blend of culture, history, and natural beauty. For a weekend escape that delights the senses, look no further than Chestnut Hill.

How a PA Boom Town with an Unlikely Name Gave Rise to the Petroleum Industry

This blog entry has nothing whatsoever to do with cheese plates, nor room service--quite the opposite. Yet it's a story I felt like sharing due to its interesting backstory and it seemed easiest this way. So here it is, shoehorned in. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

When my husband and I first learned of Pithole, we got quite the laugh and contemplated why a town would have such a name. Might it be Spanish? Pronounced Pit-hole-aay? No, we were told, there was no putting lipstick on that moniker, but we can't say we didn't try to fancy it up. And yes, it does indeed rhyme with another word that about sums it up.

Deeper research revealed that the origin of the name is a bit murky, not unlike the streets of that place located in between Pleasantville (once you emerge from Pithole I suppose) and Plumer in Venango County, Pennsylvania. There are two schools of thought here: it was named thusly due to the sulfur gases that wafted up through the holes between the rocks near a local creek. This led some to speculate that it was a portal to hell. Another hypothesis is that the name was derived from the excavations that took place when drilling for oil.

One thing’s for sure, the town lived up to its name, or down rather. You could say that the area attracted some of society's worst and became a haven for those with only the strongest stomachs and the most rugged constitutions.

How It Began

The City of Pithole, courtesy of the Drake Museum and Parks Collection

Pithole City began on the Thomas Holmden farm in Venango County in 1865 when two speculators, named Frazier and Faulkner, leased 65 acres of farmland hoping that there’d be gold in them thar hills, liquid gold, so to speak. It stood to reason, they figured, since nearby Oil Creek Valley was revealed to be rich with it. So, using a divining tool with a witch hazel twig, (it’s a Pennsylvania thing), they set off to drill. Well, their efforts paid off handsomely and pretty soon people from all parts of the country we’re flocking to the area to get rich quick. It seemed everyone and his brother wanted a piece of the action.

The City of Pithole photographed from the flats by Pithole Creek looking up towards the city (photo courtesy of the Drake Museum and Parks Collection)

The land was leased to speculators at $3K per half acre, a whopping sum in 1865. Because these speculators didn’t own the land, they’d erect makeshift wooden structures for living and drilling there. One two-story hotel built with astonishing rapidity was the Astor Hotel, which went up in one day.

Soon the city was home to 15,000 residents, 57 hotels and numerous brothels and bars. It seems as if those who had taken up residence there were also patrons of the arts. Never let it be said that those residents lacked class! In no time they had constructed theaters and hired actors. The city also established a hometown newspaper and a post office which was said to be the third-busiest in Pennsylvania.

People congratulated each other on the swiftness with which they acted to erect structures to accommodate their needs, but it turned out that the builders were short-sighted. Pennsylvania winters in the buildings were brutal, with gusts of air blowing through the hastily made log cabin structures.

Forget the Tussie-Mussies—Send Some Smelling Salts Over Here

According to Susan Hutchison Tassin in her book titled “Pennsylvania Ghost Towns,” the place literally reeked—reeked plus ultra, stunk to the high heavens—you get the idea. And water was hard to come by. Those who did manage to procure some were charged 10 cents a cup and then one couldn't guarantee it wouldn't be oily.

Shopkeepers, hoteliers, residents all pitched their garbage and chamber pots right into the streets. Those who had to cross said streets would remove their shoes and socks and then dunk them into a large vat of water provided by the business people around the city. The poor Pithole mules were flogged when they couldn’t keep up dragging barrels of heavy oil around and most were bald from the neck down due to the sludge that damaged the capillaries to the skin. When they finally chose death over pain, they were dragged to the edge of town and unceremoniously dumped. According to Tassin, the life expectancy of the poor creatures was but a few months. Because of the maltreatment, they ran out of beasts of burden, but the enablers just shipped them more, bringing mules in from Ohio and New York.

The Wild, Wild West

As time went on, the city became like the Wild West. According to reports, there were shootouts, murders and riots. One brothel felt the need to “advertise” and the girls would ride naked down the streets at night in a unique marketing campaign.

By 1866, Pithole City denizens had realized it was time to move on after wells dried up and a series of fires took on a life of their own with so much kindling in the form of shacks around. That was the death knell for the area and the end of the liquid gold rush that gave birth to a town which lasted a mere 500 days.

Today’s Pithole

When my husband and I visited a few years’ ago, there really wasn’t much to see. There was a small visitor’s center that displays photos of Pithole City, but it was closed when we visited. I later learned that the Visitor Center is open to the public from May 31 through August 31 on weekends from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For those who are interested in seeing old pictures of Pithole City during its heyday, there’s also the Drake Well Museum and Park located in nearby Titusville Pa. The museum opened in 1934 and pays tribute to the area’s petroleum industry, so visitors will be able to see even more photos of Pithole during its rough-and-tumble, short-lived heyday. The museum's 240-acre site features a replica of Edwin L. Drake’s engine house built around the National Historic Landmark well, along with operating oil field machinery. Guest will also be able to browse among 12,000 square foot of interior exhibits and view the largest artifact and archival collection focused on the birth of the modern petroleum industry.

Drake Well Visitors Center
Photos courtesy of Drake Well Museum and Park

The Drake Well building 

Drake Engine House

We ended up with one, lone picture of what used to be Pithole City, a photo which fails to reveal the state of the area all those years’ ago.

Today's Pithole.