Omni Bedford Spring's Resort Stands the Test of Time

The older I get, the more I enjoy history, which is not all that uncommon from what I am learning. I have to admit that I am rather late to the party when it comes to visiting the many interesting and unique properties that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. To date, I haven't made much of a dent in that list since since Pennsylvania alone is home to more than 3,000 such structures. Nevertheless however, I am always excited to set eyes on a property that makes it on the list. Learning the backstory from those who carefully present a case for preservation is intriguing as well.

I visited the Omni Bedford Springs for the first time this Valentine's Day. Until then, I knew little about the property and its rich history, but soon learned more thanks to a knowledgeable guide who conducts group tours throughout the week. 

Omni Bedford Springs, view from the bridge.

Located in the Allegheny Mountains of south Pennsylvania, the Omni Bedford Springs is home to eight mineral springs which, for centuries, were used by Native Americans for drinking and bathing. The water, with its rich mineral content, was said to contain curative properties, which eventually caught the attention of a local doctor by the name of John Anderson. In 1796, Anderson purchased the 2,200-acre property on which the resort now stands. Anderson began building bathing facilities for his patients and offered them custom prescriptions based on their individual health issues, while housing them in tents during their stay.

As "taking the waters" grew in popularity, Anderson decided it was time to erect a structure to accommodate visitors. Aaron Burr, with grandson in tow, were among the first notable guests of the Bedford Springs Hotel. Many others would follow.

In 1816, Attorney James Buchanan visited the Springs for the first time, followed by Thomas Jefferson, who suffered from acute rheumatism. By 1842, the resort had earned luxury status. Frequent guests included Presidents Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, James K. Polk and Zachary Taylor. Other dignitaries included Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and John C. Calhoun. As the hotel gained a reputation as a retreat for the elite, it attracted top businessmen and industrialists, including such luminaries as Henry Ford and John Wanamaker, who maintained a suite on the first floor. Buchanan famously used the resort as his "Summer White House" from 1857-1861 and received the first transatlantic cable from England's Queen Victoria while staying at the Bedford Springs Hotel in the summer of 1858. 

The Bedford Springs Hotel also laid claim to other "firsts," including one of the first golf courses. Designed by Spencer Oldham in 1895, the course at Bedford Springs is one of the oldest in the United States. In 1905, the resort also installed the first spring-fed, Olympic-sized indoor pool in the nation.

The hotel's heyday lasted approximately two decades--from 1900 through 1920. During the 1920s,  its popularity began to wane as the country suffered the economic impact of The Great Depression, followed by World War II. In the mid-1940s, the hotel experienced an uptick in business thanks to the construction of the Pennsylvania Turnpike and the subsequent popularity of hotel tourism, which was fortuitously followed by a post-war economic stimulus. 

In 1984, the hotel was added to the National Register of Historic Places as one of the best remaining examples of "Springs Resort Architecture." Two years later the property ended what was a good run in the hospitality industry. This, of course, dismayed the citizens of Bedford, who held out little hope that their crown jewel would ever return. It wasn't until 2004 that the property would undergo a rebirth due to the efforts of a development company that specialized in historic renovation. The three-year, $120 million project was completed in 2007 and was purchased by Omni Hotels and Resorts in 2009.  Today it stands as a mixture of old and new. To wit, a rare, 39-star United States flag dates back to 1865 and hangs behind the modern front desk. Historians may question the date so it's important to note that although only 36 states were in existence at the time, the creator, in a spate of optimism, added an additional three, making the acquisition a rare, one-of-a-kind specimen.

The lobby of the Omni Bedford Springs.

Cozy.

Plenty of Activities

Packing a bathing suit for a dip in the heated indoor pool is a must and guests who gaze upwards will see an elevated opera box where musicians once serenaded swimmers back in the days of yore.

Those hankering for a little pampering will find plenty of opportunities at the 30,000 square foot "Springs Eternal Spa." The spa at the Omni is just one of just a few in the country to use natural spring water for treatments. The "menu" includes an array of services ranging from body scrubs, manicures, pedicures, massages, facials and even reiki. The popular destination is usually booked for weeks on end, so visitors are encouraged to call ahead. Staff recommends six-to-eight-week's advance notification.

Products solds at the "Hope Springs Eternal" spa.

For guests who enjoy the great outdoors, Omni offers a variety of activities like fly fishing, trap shooting, off-road vehicle tours, hiking trails, lawn games, horseback riding, tennis and segway tours beginning on April 1.

A Focus on Dining
The Omni Bedford Springs is known for its quality culinary program and many take advantage of the opportunity to watch chef demonstrations held at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

During our stay, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of sea bass and steak in the formal Crystal Room where chandeliers are a focal point and pictures of guests from a bygone era adorn the walls.

The Crystal Room

Sea bass over wild rice served in the Crystal Room.

Steak with carrots over polenta and pesto served in the Crystal Room.

A lovely Valentine's Day dessert served with a rum "injection."

One afternoon we made it a point to grab a drink at the Frontier Tavern and settle into the oversized comfy chairs to enjoy the view overlooking the front of the property. Directly outside is a fire pit that  is pulled into commission during warm summer evenings for toasting s'mores.

Additional dining is available in the 1796 room named for the year when Dr. John Anderson purchased the property. Known for its USDA 21-day-aged prime beef and world-class wine list, the 1796 Room is a less formal alternative to the Crystal Room known for its historic atmosphere in an older part of the building.

An antique stove is on display at the front of the Frontier Tavern.

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An antique tapestry hangs on the walls of the 1796 room. 

Our tour guide describing the 1796 room as one of the oldest rooms on the property.

Boutique Shopping

Shops line the hall of the first floor.

An array of merchandise ranging from gifts, to books, logo items, clothing and accessories can be found in the shops that line the first floor. And since the Omni Bedford Springs is home to one of the top 100 golf courses in the nation, it stands to reason that they'd offer golfers the opportunity to choose from a variety of accessories and attire at the onsite pro shop. According to the tour guide, panes of glass were salvaged from the original property, so be sure to linger a bit in the "Duke of Bedford" library, where, if you look closely, you'll see names etched into the windows by various guests over the years. Called "the truing of the ring," newly married visitors would etch their names into the glass to test the authenticity of their diamond rings.

Visiting the Springs

Crossing the bridge to the springs.

View from the Bridge.

The Iron Springs and Wedding Grotto.

Of the eight springs on the property, three are capped: the Sweet Spring, the Sulphur Spring and the Crystal Spring. The Sweet Spring  was used by the early hotel for cooking and washing and is marked by a lion's head sculpture. The Sulphur Spring, formerly known as the Yellow Spring, was used to treat moderate bleeding, constipation and chronic diseases. The Crystal Spring, located south of the resort, was once compared to the "Carlsbad of Europe." Part of a mammoth was discovered nearby during an excavation.

Non-capped springs include the Magnesia Spring, the Limestone Spring, the Black Spring, the Iron Spring and the Eternal Spring.

The Magnesia Spring, located behind the wedding grotto, was demonstrated to have many curative properties and was used to treat liver disease, malaria and stomach and kidney disease. 

The Black Spring is said to contain the most potable water and is responsible for the irrigation of the golf course.

The effervescent Iron Spring contains iron and common salts and was used for blood and bone disorders.

The Eternal Spring was discovered beneath the hotel during the most recent renovation. It feeds the indoor pool and the on-site spa. Consult your concierge for directions to these natural wonders.

One courtesy that the Omni generously offers non-guests is the opportunity to explore the springs on the property. Guests are also encouraged to take advantage of any scheduled tours and are welcome to visit the restaurants on site as well.

Exploring Bedford 

After our stay at the Omni, we decided to explore Bedford's quaint downtown. One of our stops was at Bedford Candies. The small business located at 132 East Pitt Street has been making handmade, hand-dipped chocolates since 1929. The bright and cheery store was operated by the Sotirokos family for three generations before employee Tammy Wiley assumed ownership. She continues the daily tradition of making products onsite using old family recipes.

Bedford Candies was founded in 1929.

Bedford Candies sales floor.

Another Bedford shop worthy of a visit is Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant  located on the corner of Juliana Street. The historic building was built in the 1890s in the Italianate style, originally serving as Oppenheimer's Clothing Store. Later it became home to a G. C. Murphy's--as evidenced by the stoop leading to the front entrance. Inside, you'll find an array of merchandise, from gifts, to home decor, crafts, antiques and collectibles. If you have some time to spare, you can easily wile away an hour inspecting all the unique items for sale.

Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant--look closely at the steps and you'll see evidence of the old G.C. Murphy's.

Founder's Crossing offers two floors of crafts, antiques and sundries.

This shotgun shell flag gave me a chuckle.

G.C. Murphy's Lunch Counter.

I would have loved to have taken the free guided walking tour of Bedford, but it was too early in the year when we visited. Tours last 90 minutes and are conducted every Friday at 3:30 p.m.. starting in June. 

A mural of a young George Washington

As we poked around the town, I snapped a picture of this attractive house and later learned that it was owned by Dr. John Anderson--the individual mentioned earlier who was responsible for founding the resort in  Bedford Springs. Built in 1815, it is characteristic of the Federalist style. Federalist homes often featured American symbols and Dr. Anderson's house was no exception. If you look closely at the front door, you'll get a glimpse of American eagle partially obscured by the wrought iron railing.

The Anderson House

Before we left the area, we ducked into another Anderson building. The Golden Eagle Inn was built in 1794 and was known as The Anderson Mansion. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is known as one of  the oldest buildings downtown.We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the downstairs pub before proceeding home. In retrospect, I wish I had ventured upstairs to take a few shots of the interior of the old hotel. Unfortunately all I can share here is a not-so-stellar picture of the outside and the downstairs pub, but if you follow the link, you can get a little better idea of what lies beyond.

The front of the Golden Eagle Inn, once known as the Anderson Mansion.

We enjoyed a delicious lunch of Korean chicken and a Reuben at the pub downstairs.

When we wrapped up our short visit, I was fairly confident that we had seen much of what Bedford had to offer, although I wouldn't mind returning to the interior of the Golden Eagle Inn and taking the walking tour I mentioned. If you're looking for a unique way to spend a long weekend, Bedford offers much to explore. 

Stepping Back in Time to a 1700s-era Tavern in Bedford, Pa

Bedford's Jean Bonnet Tavern

I'm a fan of old taverns and, as such, the Jean Bonnet Tavern located in Bedford, Pennsylvania has held a bit of an allure for me, but it just never seemed convenient to make a special trip there until recently when we decided to visit Omni Bedford Springs resort (more to come on that in a future blog post.)

Many insist that the old tavern is haunted.  For me that adds to its appeal, but as usual, I can't attest to it firsthand. I can, however, provide this link to an interesting video shot by local paranormal investigators.

A Rich History

The exact age of the Jean Bonnet hasn't been quite pinned down. The earliest record on the property is a title transfer of 690 acres from the William Penn family to a land speculator by the name of Hans Ireland, who then transferred it to Indian trader Robert Callender in 1762. Callender was also a commissary for troop supplies and later a scout for George Washington. Many of the features you'll see today like the tavern's stone walls, its impressive fireplaces and the chestnut beams were constructed while Callender owned the property.

The structure, which served as a respite for settlers who made their way west in wooden wagons,  is located along the Lincoln Highway and Route 31. Early on, it served as a French fort and trading post. Old accounts by trappers and traders refer to the building as being on the way to the Old Shawnese Cabins, today known as Shawnee State Park. General John Forbes was said to have stopped at the tavern to await reinforcements before continuing westward in his quest to take Fort Duquesne from the French.

In 1779, Jean (John) Bonnet and his wife purchased the property and shortly thereafter was issued a license to keep a Public House. 

One of the most notable developments after the Revolutionary War was the imposition of a federal excise tax on whiskey, which enraged farmers. The "whiskey tax" was the first tax imposed on a domestic product in the United States and was part of Hamilton's plan to help pay down the national debt caused by Revolutionary War expenditures. The farmers, who would distill their surplus grain and corn into whiskey and sometimes use it in trade instead of money, met in the Jean Bonnet Tavern and raised a "liberty pole," which was a common form of protest during colonial days. 

An example of a "liberty pole" posted on the John Bonnet website
from a Wikipedia image.
Painting by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.  

George Washington lead a group of militiamen to help quell the rebellion and many of his troops camped at the John Bonnet on their way to Pittsburgh in 1794.

Over the years, the property changed hands many times and was also used as a private residence.

Dining at the Jean Bonnet

I suggest making reservations to dine at the Jean Bonnet Tavern. When we arrived during a weekday, the place was doing a brisk business, but I did manage to snap a few pictures surreptitiously, while trying not to disturb anyone. 

The front seating room of the Jean Bonnet Tavern. 

One of the few seats that weren't yet taken when we visited. 

We found the low-lit atmosphere warm and inviting and if you've ever visited The Dobbin House in Gettysburg, it was reminiscent of the Springhouse Tavern. Menu items included a variety of soups, sandwiches and salads, with more substantial dinner offerings. You can view a menu here. 

Mike perusing the lunch menu on Valentine's Day 2018. 

One of the tavern's many fireplaces. 

Another shot of a fireplace in the dining area. 

After we finished our lunch, I ventured upstairs to have a peek and was surprised to see another seating area and a rather large bar. Once again, I tried to be a bit sneaky while snapping a few pics, but this time I didn't quite succeed. As you can tell by the faces of the patrons in the pictures, they weren't very kindly disposed towards me, so the shot could be clearer, but I just found myself wanting to move on. Perhaps they were fugitives, or worse, they may have preferred to protect their identity. One item of note, however, is the impressive fireplace behind their glares. 

Large bar upstairs where yet another fireplace is a focal point.

Unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity to see any of the Inn rooms, but you can have a looky look by clicking on this link here.

Stairs behind the bar lead to the rooms upstairs. 

On the way out, we stopped inside The Cabin Shop, which sold a selection of crafts made by local artisans, including candles, jewelry, accessories and home decor. 

The Cabin Shop on the grounds of the Jean Bonnet Tavern features a variety of merchandise ideal for gift giving.

It might have been a cold, cloudy day when we visited the Jean Bonnet, but the atmosphere was both warm and welcoming and evidently others feel the same. TripAdvisor has awarded the Tavern a Certificate of Excellence Award for its hospitality.

If you'd like to consider visiting, the tavern is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to  9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. 

Small Town Fun from Shepherdstown to Boonsboro

Saturdays are made for exploring and I try to do that as much as I can, schedule and weather permitting. Luckily, I live within a two-hour drive of many interesting destinations, so there are still some "new-to-me" areas I've yet to visit that require relatively little time spent on the road traveling.

Shepherdstown made its way onto my radar when I was flipping through television channels and was intrigued by a show titled, "The Ghosts of Shepherdstown." It occurred to me that I'd never been to that particular area of West Virginia, so my husband and I executed a plan to find out what the buzz was all about.

One thing I especially dislike about winter is that many destinations are closed for the season, so options are somewhat limited. For that reason, we planned a short, overnight stay, with the intention of returning at a later date when more attractions (like the Historic Shepherdstown and Museum) are open.

As we browsed nearby accommodations, we learned about a Bed and Breakfast in nearby Sharpsburg, MD and as luck would have it, we were able to secure a last-minute reservation. The Jacob Rohrbach Inn dates back to the year 1804 and has a rich history. You can read more about the structure and those who once called it home by visiting the website here

Our room at the Jacob Rohrbach Inn.

When speaking with the proprietors, we broached the subject of the town's paranormal reputation, but it was soon obvious that they really weren't all that interested, choosing instead to focus on the history of the area. After all, the Battle of Antietam, also known as the Battle of Sharpsburg, took place only a mile or two away, with some fighting occurring in the town itself. The historic confrontation  became known as the bloodiest, single-day battle in American history, with a combined tally of 22,717 dead, wounded, or missing.

History buffs have been known to spend many hours at the nearby battlefield. Grounds are open for touring from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week, year round. The National Park Service provides helpful information on planning a visit via their website. Details are available here.

Dining at the Bavarian Inn
A light snow began to fall as we made our way to the alpine-style Bavarian Inn's Hunt Room for lunch. The cozy restaurant, which features roaring fireplaces and antlered chandeliers, was an ideal respite from the frigid weather.

Perched on a scenic bluff overlooking the Potomac River, the AAA Four-Diamond property is comprised of 72 rooms situated on 11 acres. Additional options include casual dining in the Rathskeller, or more formal dining in the Potomac Room overlooking the grounds.

The grounds at the Bavarian Inn.

Dining at the Hunt Room at The Bavarian Inn.

The Bavarian Inn's Hunt Room decorated for Christmas

Stepping Back in Time at O'Hurleys General Store
After lunch, we decided to drop by the Shepherdstown Visitor's Center on Princess Street to pick up a few brochures. While there, an ambassador recommended a trip to O'Hurley's General Store. When we pulled up to the inauspicious building, we couldn't help but wonder what we had gotten ourselves into, but it turned out to be a very charming experience. A wood-burning stove keeps the place warm and cozy and a big, furry feline oversees operations.

Visitors can choose from a array of merchandise, from books, to tools, to jams, jellies, hats and hardware, some of which I understand dates back to the early 1900s. You can visit their website to see all they offer here, but you may end up scratching your head like I did when you see coffins among the items listed. I'll admit I didn't spot any of those while touring the rooms full of merchandise, but then again maybe I overlooked them since I'm not quite old enough to be in the market for one just yet. Nonetheless, I'll keep the place in mind for later consideration. Maybe I'll get a good deal.

Come and get yer coffins here at O'Hurley's General Store. 

The owner of O'Hurley's poses for a photo.

Goods sold at O'Hurley's

O'Hurley's General Store decorated for the Christmas season. 

This sign spoke to me--perhaps I was possessed.

The kindly old owner posed for a picture for me and handed me a brochure. "That's me, in the same place, just 30 years earlier," he said, with a chuckle.

A Stroll through Downtown Shepherdstown
After our visit to the General Store, we headed to the heart of downtown where several blocks of shops offered a variety of merchandise from jewelry, to antiques, wine, crafts and clothing.

Four Seasons Books is a family owned bookstore dating back to 1991.

A helpful employee at Grapes and Grain Gourmet assisted us with a wine purchase.

Creative Procrastinations claims to have "a little of everything."

Some of the downtown structures are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Of all the buildings located downtown, I believe the one below was my favorite. Built in the Beaux Arts style, it was constructed in 1906 and once served as a bank. I was disappointed to see that the restaurant that operated there recently went out of business; hopefully someone with a vision will fall in love with it and purchase it soon.

The Yellow Brick Bank Building.

This following building is listed as belonging to actress Mary Tyler Moore, who is known for purchasing old structures that once belonged to her family. When we visited Winchester, we learned that she bought Stonewall Jackson's headquarters, because it once served as her ancestral home.

The George Tyler Moore Center for the Study of the Civil War, Shepherd University.

McMurran Hall

Located on the corner of NE German and King Streets is a Greek Revival structure erected in 1859 by Rezin Davis Shepherd. Its initial purpose was to serve as a town hall. After the Civil War it operated as a county courthouse and by 1872 it became part of a teacher's college known as "Shepherd University."

Another stop on the walking tour is the Entler Hotel and Shepherdstown Museum located at the Northwest corner of German and Princess Streets. The structure operated as a hotel in 1809 and in later years served as a dormitory for students, WWII Navy and Air Force cadets and college faculty. Today it operates as a museum from April through October.

The Entler Hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

During our walk, we took a break to indulge in a libation at Bistro 112. The building was originally constructed in the 1830's as a haberdashery and cigar shop with the residence upstairs. Today the charming boite attracts customers from miles around for its outstanding French cuisine.

Bistro 112 is located at 112 W. German Street in Shepherdstown

Inside Bistro 112

Further down the road is another popular restaurant known as "The Press Room." The Press Room was once the base of operations for The Independent, a newspaper which operated from the 1900s to the 1970s. Today it operates as an eatery, offering a selection of soups, salads, grilled seafood, meats and pasta.

The Press Room

Next door to The Press Room is the Opera House. The current structure was built in 1909, replacing a 100-year-old building. Moving pictures were shown here through 1956. Approximately 35 years later, after extensive renovations, it reopened as a movie theater. These days it serves as a venue for film and live music.

Another building of note on the walking tour is the old "poorhouse" which tended to the elderly and poverty stricken. Dating back to 1805, the poorhouse started out as a log cabin before being enlarged and upgraded with wooden siding. Iron rings in the attic rafters cause some to speculate that residents may have been restrained.

"The Poorhouse" where kids of a certain vintage were accused of "putting" their parents.

These are just a few highlights along the Shepherdstown Walking Tour. If you're interested in taking the self-guided tour yourself, you can download a more comprehensive listing of all the historic structures here.

Dinner at an Old Inn

For dinner, we headed to Old South Mountain Inn in nearby Boonsboro. People come from miles around to visit the historic restaurant. On the night we visited, the extremely large parking lot was packed, making finding a spot rather difficult. Thankfully, there were only a few people waiting in line inside and we were seated in just a few minutes.

The exterior of the popular Old South Mountain Inn

Interior of the Old South Mountain Inn

Bar area of the Old South Mountain Inn where patrons can wait for their table while enjoying a libation.

Located atop historic Turner's Gap, the Old South Mountain Inn is said to date back to 1732. Over the years, the Inn was visited by Henry Clay, Daniel Webster and several presidents. Its long history is detailed on the website here.

Boonsboro Antiques

Antique trunk spotted at Market Place Antiques in Boonsboro.

On the way home, we stopped at Market Place Antiques in Boonsboro where I spotted this cool, old trunk. What made it unique is the hinged lid, with a picture of whom I assume may once have been the owner. Unfortunately, my husband talked me out of spending the $100 they were asking for it. Take note the bonnet and heels were part of the deal--problem was, he wasn't buying. I suppose if I bought all of the old trunks I've been attracted to over the years, we'd have a hoarding problem, so I let it go. (Note: I have yet to buy a trunk.)

Trunk aside, the shop was a great place to browse, with scores of vendors under one roof and was a nice way to end our visit to the historic area.

And just in case your wondering, no, I didn't experience any paranormal activity. Oh well, there's always next time.