Myrtle Beach for Landlubbers

If you're puzzled about the title of this blog post, allow me to explain. I've never been a sunworshipper due to my fair skin and I've always been too uncomfortable and impatient to even "work" on a tan. In fact, a colleague who was observing a photo of myself and my husband on my desk remarked years ago that I "looked like a mime." I will agree that I was a bit washed out there, but I still considered that comment a tad harsh.

So if you're the type who exclusively enjoys sandy beaches and riding waves, this post might not be for you. However, it you want to save some money, avoid the crowds and visit Myrtle Beach in an off season, you'll be happy to know that there's plenty to do in the area, from watching live shows, to taking an educational e-cruise, to touring a large sculpture garden and more. 

What surprised me the most as a first-time visitor was how sprawling the area was. In fact, we spent quite a bit of time in the car driving back and forth to destinations. Two landmarks in the area are Barefoot Landing and Broadway at the Beach and each is about 20 minutes away from each other. 

The few suggestions below are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to everything you can do in the Myrtle Beach area--without ever setting a bare foot on the beach.

The Myrtle Beach Boardwalk

Broadway at the Beach

Broadway at the Beach attracts an astonishing 11 million visitors a year. I learned this fact when I returned home my trip and suddenly I was glad that we visited in mid-April, when the crowds hadn't ballooned yet.

The 350-acre complex is a boon to shoppers, who can browse from among 100 specialty shops and foodies have their choice of about 20 restaurants. Some of the more familiar places include Landry's Seafood House, Senor Frog's, Paula Deen's Family Kitchen and the Hard Rock Cafe. And for the kids and those who are kids at heart, Broadway at the Beach features 20 amusement rides in three different parks.

On our first day there, we planned four activities at Broadway at the Beach, all of which were quite entertaining. This was a good thing because in mid-April the temperature had only reached the high 50s, so we were quite happy to enjoy time indoors.

Our first stop was Ripley's Aquarium where we saw stingrays (which kids can pet), sharks swimming overhead in see-through aquariums, and perky penguins with nametags waddling around, which is a highlight for many. Those who pay an extra fee can be taken behind the scenes where they can touch the cute little creatures and learn more about them.

Guests, for an extra fee, can learn more about penguins and have the opportunity to touch them.

Young and old alike enjoy the Ripley's Aquarium experience.

The stingray encounter is another popular exhibit.

Another destination at Broadway at the Beach features the Simpsons, a 4-D experience that is entertaining for both young and old alike. Upon arrival, we were directed to stand with Homer, Marge and Maggie for a complimentary photo before entering the theater for the show, which included puffs of air and moving seats, for a truly fun experience. Each mini-episode lasted between 10-15 minutes and there were plenty of jokes for adults. When we visited, Ayn Rand starred as a school administrator who refused to candycoat kids' talents, or lack thereof. I enjoyed the humor and the trip to the Kwik-E-Mart afterwards where "Lard Lad," donuts were for sale.

The Simpsons 4-D is fun for all ages.

After the shows, kids can enjoy a "Lard Lad," donut.

By this time, it was lunch so we headed to another destination that is a hit with families: Dave & Buster's.  When we visited, people of all ages seemed to be having a good time playing arcade games, virtual reality games, air hockey, tabletop games, claw games and more.

When I visit entertainment complexes like this I sometimes worry that the food will get short shrift, but I have to say that my husband and I really enjoyed our lunches. He opted for the fish and chips and I ordered the Korean chicken and we highly recommend both.

Our final stop at Broadway at the Beach was Wonderworks--otherwise known as the "upside-down house," where the exterior alone is a draw. 

The unique exterior of Wonderworks.

Wonderworks is another destination where families can spend hours engaging in educational entertainment. Inside are more than 100 exhibits divided into several zones: the extreme weather zone, the physical challenge zone, the light and sound zone, the space discovery zone, the imagination lab and the wonderworks art gallery. 

Experiencing high winds in a hurricane shack, feeling how cold the water was when the Titanic sank and jumping on keys to play a large piano like in the movie Big are just a few of the activities we observed people enjoying. If I had to choose, I'd say my favorite part of the visit was the 6-D extreme motion theater experience. Be sure you're strapped in!

Barefoot Landing

Barefoot Landing on the Waterway is where tourists can spend hours shopping, eating and dining. It is a smaller version of Broadway at the Beach with familiar retail shops like Build-a-Bear, Sunglass Hut, Ron Jon Surf Shop and other smaller independent retail shops.

We visited Barefoot Landing to take a 1.5-hour cruise on a 70-foot authentic wooden riverboat known as the Barefoot Queen, where we enjoyed dinner and a singer who often got the crowd involved. We even met a few new friends while watching the world go by from the back of the boat. 

The Barefoot Queen is a 70-foot authentic wooden riverboat.

Just one of the beautiful properties we saw during our cruise.

We returned to Barefoot Landing the following day to have dinner at a fun dinner place called LuLu's, which serves seafood, salads, sandwiches and cocktails and is owned by Jimmy Buffet's sister. Plenty of parrotheads make sure to stop there to eat while in the area. There they can listen to live music and hear the hits of Jimmy Buffet that play over the soundsystem. After dinner we visited their onsite gift shop to purchase a delicious hot sauce called "Perfect Pepper," that we tasted during dinner.

Lulu's is a popular dining destination owned by Jimmy Buffet's sister.

Stroll the Boardwalk

The boardwalk at Myrtle Beach is 1.8-miles long and features shops, restaurants and rooftop bars, all within view of the beach. I was surprised to later learn that the boardwalk is relatively new, having been built in 2010. It took nine months to complete at a cost of $6.5 million.

During our time there, we visited Ripley's Believe It or Not! Odditorium. If you've read my previous blogs, you might be aware that I always make time for Ripley's when I'm out of town. I'm never disappointed at the quirky collections designed to amaze and amuse, like this gorilla comprised of old tires, a portrait of "The Rock" made of cigar ash and a horse created out of computer keys.

This gorilla that greets guests upon arrival is made of tires.

A horse crafted of computer keys.

Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson made with cigar ash.

Another highlight of the boardwalk area is a famous honky-tonk bar called "The Bowery," where Alabama played as the house band before they were launched into super stardom. The Bowery will celebrate 80 years in business next February, so they must be doing something right. The building exterior which was once brick is now wood, but the interior has stayed the same throughout the years.

The outside of the Bowery.

An antique Schlitz light fixture.

The interior of The Bowery where the band Alabama got their start.

People were eating outside when we visited and the inside was closed until the evening when the place starts hopping as bands take the stage. When I explained why I was there to a waitress on staff, she kindly allowed me access to take a peak inside and snap a few photos.

Off the Beaten Path

We learned about the Murrell's Inlet ecosystem alongside charter school students.

A short drive from Myrtle Beach to Murrell's Inlet will take you to a marina for an eco-tour to learn more about the area and its wildlife. The 1.5-hour trip is interesting and educational and makes a pit stop at a small beach so visitors can walk around, dip their feet in the water, or merely collect shells.

Our guide shows us a sea urchin.

During our cruise, we learned alongside students who were there with a charter school. I even made bold to hold a sea urchin. Its little eyes made me sad, so I was glad that they threw him back in after passing him around. I also learned about jellyfish that they call "cannonballs" which don't sting. Our intrepid guide even licked it to prove this fact as the slime dripped down his arm. I passed on holding that one---no thanks! 

A jellyfish called a "cannonball."

Other interesting tidbits that were new to me is that sand dollars stand to eat and that soft coral, which the guide holds in the photo above, is called carrageenan and is used in many ice-cream products. "The Hershey company uses the most," he said, giving a little shout-out to my native state of Pennsylvania.

Another destination that is a bit off the beaten path, just south of Murrell's Inlet, is Brookgreen Gardens, an area so beautiful that I haven't enough superlatives to describe it. Lovely, fascinating and the best sculpture garden I've ever seen are my lame attempts at praise. I never thought any sculpture garden would beat New Jersey's Grounds for Sculpture, but this one knocks them down to second place. 

The 9,100-acre property, in addition to featuring sculptures, is also a wildlife preserve with a Zoo onsite, which we unfortunately lacked time to see, nor did we check out the $10 boat ride, which sounded like fun.

When it was all said and done, I had snapped about 65 photos and there were still more statues around every corner in this world-class outdoor museum. It's no wonder that Brookgreen Gardens has been designated among the top 10 Botanical Gardens in America. The destination has also received a Garden of Excellence Award from the American Public Garden Association. 

A Gallery onsite is also part of admission. When we visited, Rodin was featured. 

Brookgreen Gardens features a gallery onsite.

 

Brookgreen Gardens is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily.

Take in a Show

On our last night, we decided to take in a show at the Carolina Opry, which celebrates its 37th season this year. The theater seats 2,200 and features state-of-the-art lighting and sound. We certainly weren't disappointed. On the bill was "Time Warp" a variety show with top-notch performers featuring music from the 60s, 70s, and 80s.  

Jordan Gilmore Watkins, Director of Marketing, said that when his father opened the theater in 1986, the idea of a variety show was unheard of and the town practically rolled up the sidewalks at night. "There were plenty of restaurants and mini golf courses, but nothing for the family to do together in the evening," he said. Evidently he was onto something because the venue is still going strong decades later as people are drawn to its world-class shows.

It's not often that I visit a place that has a seemingly endless amount of things to do, but Myrtle Beach certainly fits the bill.

Hopefully these few ideas that I've listed here will pique your interest enough to arrange a visit. 

 

History, Shopping, Art and More Await in Havre de Grace

The Concord Point Light House

I learned about Havre de Grace, Maryland from a local meteorologist, which is a bit of a strange way to happen upon a place. He’d trace his finger along the map and say, “It's today's hot spot, located way down here.” Why he always included Havre de Grace was a mystery to me then and it is now. Did he have ties to the town? I don’t know. What I do know is that my curiosity led me to the area located about an hour and 45 minutes from Harrisburg in Harford County Maryland at the confluence of the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeake Bay.

Havre de Grace touts a total of eight museums, all of which give up their secrets on an area that is rich in history. If history isn't your thing, there are plenty of other places to while away the time.

A relatively short drive leads visitors to a quiet area where boutique shops and restaurants line the streets and elegant bed and breakfasts beckon.

Learn about History along the Lafayette Trail

A good way to see a nice sampling of what Havre de Grace has to offer is to take a self-guided tour of the Lafayette trail, which can be accessed at the Visitors’ Center on Pennington Avenue. One of the first stops along the trail is the Lock House Museum where visitors can learn about the importance of canals in facilitating early trade and commerce in the area. The two-story structure overlooking the Susquehanna was built in 1840 and was home to the lock tender and his family. Guests of the museum will learn about the “locks” that were devised to raise and lower canal boats to adjust for the difference in elevation as they passed through the channels.

One of the most popular landmarks along the trail is the Concord Point Lighthouse, which looms large as a backdrop in many a selfie. It is known as the oldest, continuously operating lighthouse in the country and was once slated for demolition before a concerned citizen’s group banded together to save it. Guests can learn more about the light house at the museum nearby which is known as “The Keeper’s Dwelling” and dates back to 1827.

Along those same lines is the three story, 10,000 square foot Havre de Grace Maritime Museum. On display is a new permanent exhibit which tells the story of the Underground Railroad in the area.

The new installation at the Maritime Museum tells the story of the Underground Railroad in the area.

Two unique shops are Washington Street Books & Music and JoRetro, both located on Washington Street. JoRetro transports customers into the wayback machine to a time when Pyrex was popular and quite a bit of shelf space is dedicated to the kitchenware. 

Jewelry made from Pyrex at JoRetro.

Scenes from JoRetro.

A selection of vintage vinyl, clothing, jewelry and more are just a few of the other items that customers can purchase at the quirky, fun shop. 

Washington Street Books contains dozens of movie costumes displayed in cases throughout the store.

Washington Street Books is a retail shop/museum. During a recent visit, Abba blared on the sound system while 20-somethings browsed comic books that lined one of walls. Items for sale included crystals, toys, minerals and other curiosities, surrounded by dozens of floor-to-ceiling display cases containing costumes worn by stars in movies. The owner rotates out 250 movie costumes from 75 different movies. On display now are costumes from “Hunger Games” and “Respect,” which includes a gown decorated in hundreds of Swarovski crystals and worn by Jennifer Hudson.

Also, not to be missed is Seneca Cannery Antiques, where dozens of vendors sell items that have long been forgotten.

The Seneca Cannery has dozens of vendors selling items that have long been forgotten.

Beautiful B&Bs

Accommodations in Havre de Grace are as charming and historical as the town itself. The Vandiver Inn, located on Union Avenue, is home to many “I Do’s,” and rightly so. The mansion dates back to 1886 and is named after Murray Vandiver, who served as Secretary and Treasurer of Maryland and as Mayor of Havre de Grace. Vandiver built the large Victorian “cottage” as a present for his wife.

The front of the Vandiver.

The breakfast room at the Vandiver.

Our room at the Vandiver.

Our living room at the Vandiver.

Located a short walk from the Vandiver is the Spencer Silver Mansion, built in 1896 and purchased in 1917 by Carles Bartol Silver, a local canning magnate who made it his home, along with his wife “Fannie” Hopkins Silver. Silver was part owner of the firm Silver, Spencer & Company and reputed to be the largest salt fish packer in the East.

Walk the Promenade

The Promenade is a lovely ¾-mile boardwalk that provides a beautiful view of the Susquehanna, where waterfowl frolic and boats traverse the bay. An interesting structure that still stands and is located just off the Promenade is a four-story fieldstone building which opened in 1921 when Jazz was all the rage. Al Capone was said to have stayed there, but the Depression proved to be its death knell and the hotel went out of business. Today the structure is home to luxury condominiums.

This was once a hotel where Al Capone stayed.

An Up-and-Coming Art Center

An ambitious project is underway at Havre de Grace’s Graw Alley. Construction is apace for a 34,000 square-foot indoor facility that will become a creativity incubator, an art center and economic driver. The public will soon be able to able to watch artists as they work, not unlike our Millworks here in Harrisburg.

The outside of Harmer's Town Art Center is taking shape.

Located outside of the center will be the Graw Alley Interactive Art Park containing sculptures, outdoor seating and signage leading visitors on a tour of Havre de Grace history as told through murals and public art installations. Harmer’s Town Art Center will cost millions, according to officials and is slated to open the summer of 2023.

These are just a few highlights of beautiful, quaint and charming Havre de Grace, an area that is ideal for a laidback getaway to refresh and recharge.

 

 

Visiting The House of the Man Who Discovered Oxygen

Pennsylvania winters are notoriously cold so that many historical sites shut down for a few months. As you know, I enjoy writing about history, so I saved this story about the Joseph Priestley House in Northumberland, Pa from a visit I actually made in November.  I knew virtually nothing about Priestley at the time except that my husband recommended the outing, but when I heard that he "discovered" oxygen, I realized that he was a pretty big deal.

 

The Priestley House

Priestley was a man of many talents. He immigrated to the United States from England in 1794 and was known as a clergyman, philosopher, scientist and educator. It's not as if Priestley started out life with a silver spoon in his mouth. His mother died when he was young, so his father placed him in the care of his sister Sarah Keighley, who had no children of her own. Mr. and Mrs. Keighley were Nonconformists, refusing allegience to the Church of England and therefore raised Joseph under Calvinist theology.

When Joseph was 11, one of his first experiments was to observe how spiders could live in bottles minus a change of air. When he became older, he studied for the ministry at the nonconformist Academy at Daventry in Northampton and impressed the administration so much that he was excused from the first year's work and half the second.

When Priestley left Daventry, he accepted a position as a minister in a small church in Suffolk, England. This stint didn't last long due to his views. (Today he would be referred to as a "Unitarian Universalist.") Priestley found that he enjoyed working with students and later accepted work as a tutor at Warrington Academy in Lancashire, before marrying his wife Mary Wilkinson, starting a school and introducing science into the curriculum. His essay on "A Course of Liberal Education for Civil and Active Life,"soon became the outline of grammar school education. Priestley also developed a Chart of Biography and a Chart of History, which was printed many times over the years. These endeavors earned him an honorary Doctor of Laws degree from the University of Ediburgh.

These successes inspired him to write a history of discoveries in electricity. By this time, Priestley had met Ben Franklin, who was in England on business related to Pennsylvania. Franklin encouraged Priestley in his ambitious endeavors by providing him with pamphlets and other printed materials to assist in his projects and the two became life-long friends.

By 1767, Priestley had left the Academy to become the minister at Mill Hill Chapel in Leeds. While there, he carried out his first experiments on gasses, which led to the creation of the soda water we drink today.

In 1772, William Petter, second Earl of Shelburne, approached Priestley to offer him a position as a tutor for his children and a librarian for his estate. He accepted and was extremely productive as a chemist during this time likely due to two reasons: Lord Shelburne provided the money to purchase equipment and supplies and Priestley's new job just wasn't very demanding.

During this time, Priestley identified more than a few gasses, like ammonia, nitric oxide, oxygen, sulfur dioxide hydrogen chloride and more, but, once again, his Unitarian Universalist religious views were frowned upon and were an embarrassment to Shelburne and the two men parted ways. Priestley then went on to accept jobs, mostly as a minister, but life in England became difficult as he dealt with the consternation of the community. On July 14, 1791, the second anniversary of Bastille Day, came the Birmingham riots. Mobs of dissenters put off by Priestley's attacks on the doctrine of the trinity burned Priestley's church and his house. Priestley lost everything, including his manuscripts and library in the fire. By 1793, his sons decided they'd had enough and set off to America, buying land located between the two branches of the Susquehanna River near the Loyalsock Creek. The headquarters for the 300,000-acre settlement would be 50 miles away in Northumberland. Priestley must have missed his three sons, because just a year later he decided to join them.  It turned out to be a good move and Priestley was welcomed warmly by Pennyslvania society. 

In his memoirs, Priestley wrote that Philadelphia may have been more desirable to some, but it was very expensive and he thought that his sons might be less prone to temptation and more industrious in Northumberland.

By 1794, he had chosen for his new home a property overlooking the Susquehanna River, but progress went slowly since the fresh-cut wood needed to be dried. The slow building process set the project out three years and the sad part is that his wife passed before she could enjoy her new house.

A sitting and sleeping area.

The parlor of the Priestley House.

According to records, Priestley discovered carbon minoxide at that time, which he obtained by passing steam over heated charcoal. He also learned that salt, when mixed with snow, contained nitric acid. Priestley then went on to write a total of 30 papers on scientific experiments while in Northumberland.

The open-hearth kitchen of the Priestley residence.

The commodius dining room of the Priestley House.

A bedroom in the Priestley House.

Because his faith was so important to him, he wrote more than a dozen theological books as well. 

Priestley died in 1804 and his son Joseph Priestley, Jr. and his family lived in the home for a time before returning to England. Later, Priestley's grandson took up residence in the home. 

When Priestley's grandson put the place up for sale, Seth Chapman, President Judge of the Eighth Judicial District (Northumberland, Luzerne and Lycoming counties), bought it and lived there until his death. It was later purchased by Rev. James Kay, pastor of the Unitarian congregation in Northumberland, who also resided in the house until he passed. The home then went through a series of owners before becoming a boarding house for railroad laborers, at which time it became neglected and run down. This caught the attention of Dr. George Gilbert Pond, Professor of Chemistry and Dean of the School of Natural Sciences at Penn State, who contacted his students and alumni to pool their funds to prevent destruction of the historic house. Pond had big plans to deconstruct the house and relocate it to the campus grounds. Unfortunately, Pond passed before his plans came to fruition. Later, the Dr. Pond Memorial Association decided instead to restore the house and build a fireproof museum for Priestley's books and equipment.

The fireproof museum which contains Priestley's documents and equipment.

Today the house is in the care of the state of Pennsylvania where it is maintained by the Historical and Museum Commission and has since been designated as a National Historic Landmark, with period furnishings.

It's unfortunate that the Priestley house gets so little attention. To encourage the public to take an interest in the house, the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission holds special activities and musical programs on the lawn during warmer weather. Guests can also see the house decorated for Christmas as it would have appeared when Priestley lived there.

Guests who enter the visitor's center today will see a special exhibit entitled, "Joseph Priestley 1733-1804, One of the Few Lives Precious to Mankind," which borrows a quote taken from Thomas Jefferson. 

An exhibition that greets guests at the Visitors' Center.

Those who may like to take a tour of what has been called "a Mecca for all who would look back to the beginnings of chemical research in America," can do so in the spring. Tours of the house are conducted March through November. The Joseph Priestley House can be found at 474 Priestley Avenue, Northumberland, Pennsylvania.