Learning about the Past in Historic Fredericksburg, Virginia

Visitors who enjoy history can spend days in Fredericksburg, Virginia, soaking in the tidbits from the many well-informed, friendly residents who call the town home.

The picturesque area, located about an hour from our nation's capital, features a variety of destinations designed to educate and enlighten.

I recently took a whirlwind tour the area and decided to offer a few suggestions for those who have limited time and still wish to make the most of a weekend visit.

Begin with a Trolley Tour
I always suggest taking a bus or trolley tour to get an overview of the area so you can plot your return to destinations of interest. The Trolley Tours of Fredericksburg operates year round, with knowledgeable guides who provide details on fascinating local people and important events that played a prominent part in our nation's history.

In the 1860s, four major Civil War battles were fought within 15 miles of Fredericksburg and many lives were lost during that time. During the 75-minute trolley tour, guests will learn more about those battles and view churches and buildings used by Confederate and Union soldiers.

The area is replete with historic structures--350 of which are recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and date back hundreds of years, like the St. George's Episcopal Church picture below. Built in 1720, the church features stained-glass windows installed in 1912 by Louis Comfort Tiffany. One famous scene is deemed, "The Road to Emmaus."

Information flows quickly, which makes it difficult to watch the world fly by AND take notes, but I did manage to jot down a few details here and there for future research.

Another stop along the way includes the Lewis Store,which dates back to 1749. Owned by George Washington's brother-in-law Fielding Lewis, (who was a member of the House of Burgesses and helped found the Fredericksburg Gun Manufactury during the American Revolution), the structure is known as the oldest mercantile shop in the United States.

The Lewis Store

The Trolley also stops in front of the Rising Sun Tavern, built in 1760 by George Washington's younger brother Charles and the Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop, which dates back to 1771. The guide offered colorful details on how Dr. Mercer served the citizenry with treatments that were popular at the time--like leeches and lancets, for instance. Today it is open to the public as a museum.

The Rising Sun Tavern

The Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop

Riders will also view the Historic Kenmore Plantation built by George Washington's sister Betty and his brother-in-law, the aforementioned Fielding Lewis. George chose to buy his mother a house nearby, which is also along the trolley route, but more on that later.

Downtown Fredericksburg is also home to many restaurants and shops, which include 90 independently owned antique stores, some of which the guide will point out along the way.

The cozy and quaint Ristorante Renato serves traditional Italian specialties like lasagna and meatballs. 

Goolricks Pharmacy, also located downtown, is worthy of a visit. I was attracted to the neon sign because I enjoy keeping up with news from the Society for Commercial Archeology, so I snapped a few pictures during my trip, only to discover later that it touts one of the oldest continuously operating soda fountains in the nation.

Goolrick's Pharmacy established in 1847.

These are but a few destinations you'll see along the tour route. Trolleys run year-round and start at the Fredericksburg Visitor Center located at 706 Caroline Street. Winter tours take place twice daily at 11:00 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Visit the Abode of Mary Washington
The Trolly Tour also passes the Mary Washington House built in 1772 and purchased by George Washington for his mother Mary. The white frame home located on the corner of Charles and Lewis Street in Fredericksburg is within walking distance of the Kenmore Plantation, where Mary's daughter Betty lived. Mary moved there at the age of 64 and resided in the house for approximately 17 years before succumbing to what we learned later was breast cancer.

Today the public can tour the house and the garden, where Mary grew flowers and boxwoods.

Many thanks to Washington Heritage Museums for bending the rules a bit and allowing me to snap a few shots of the interior.

The exterior of the Mary Washington House.

Interior photos of the Mary Washington House

Unique details on a chair in the Mary Washington House

Mary Washington's favorite tea set from China

The first-floor bedroom of the Mary Washington House

George Washington was said to have slept here.

A sundial that belonged to Mary Washington.

Hand-carved chair rail 

Take a Self-Guided Tour of Chatham

Chatham Manor is a beautiful and stately Georgian-style home which was once the residence of farmer-turned-statesman William Fitzhugh. It is one of just three locations visited by both Washington and Lincoln. Although built prior to the Revolutionary War, the place is most remembered for its role during the Civil War where it served as a Union headquarters, hospital and soup kitchen.

Today it stands as headquarters for Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park. Staff volunteers greeted us at the front door and offered to answer any questions we had during the self-guided tour.

During our visit, we learned a few grisly details about the condition of the house after the war, from blood and graffiti on the walls, to damage wreaked by horses housed on the first floor.
Needless to say, the grounds and manor have been restored and guests can view a timeline of its many owners and incarnations over the years.

The entrance to Chatham Manor.

Interior pictures of Chatham Manor.

The kitchen at Chatham Manor.

A cool copper sink, with a window that overlooks the grounds.

A scabbard decorated by a soldier is protected by glass and contains a hand-drawing of Chatham.

Learn about our Fifth President
The James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library is located at 908 Charles Street and contains the largest collection of artifacts and documents related to the fifth president of the United States. Relatives of James and Elizabeth Monroe believed that the small brick structure was once the site of Monroe's law office and chose the site to honor their ancestor, who was elected in 1816 with 80 percent of the electoral vote. It has since been revealed that the building is too new to have been the site of Monroe's law office, but there is no dispute that he did practice law on the same plot of land where the building stands today.

The exterior of the James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library.

James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library

Visitors will learn that Monroe was the first president to occupy the White House after it was burned by the British in the war of 1812 and that the onus was on James and his wife to help furnish the residence. A picture depicting the incident hangs on one of the walls near a piano, which dates back to the Monroe administration and is played today during special events.

Guests get a glimpse into the life and times of Monroe by following a series of panels detailing the timeline of his life and legislation he spearheaded. Artifacts on display include the 1795 desk where the Monroe Doctrine was signed, portraits of the President during various times of his life, jewelry worn by his wife Elizabeth Monroe and a bas-relief, which dates back to 1904 and was created by sculptor Karl Bitter. It served as a template for a bronze sculpture that is now displayed at the Missouri State Capitol and depicts James Monroe, Robert Livingston and Francis Barbe-Marbois signing the Louisiana Purchase treaty.

The scale model of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase was displayed at the 1904 World's Fair. 

Jewelry worn by James Monroe's wife Elizabeth.

The desk on which the Monroe Doctrine was signed. 

Unique Accommodations Offer a Step Back in Time
If you're seeking unique accommodations, go no further than Stevenson Ridge located in nearby Spotsylvania Courthouse, Virginia. I have to admit it was the coolest place I've stayed to date.

Debbie and Dan Spears own the 87-acre property and share a passion for antique structures. After the couple purchased the property in the year 2000, they began restoring antique cottages and relocating them to the property located near the Spotsylvania National battlefield. As of today, Dan has restored nine, updating them with modern conveniences while retaining the original character. "There's a lot to admire in the craftsmanship and artistry of these old buildings," he said.

The couple named their property "Stevenson Ridge" for a Union officer who was killed in the area in 1864 while commanding soldiers who fought in the Battle of Spotsylvania Court House.

The oldest building on the property dates back to 1732 and is deemed "The Spy Hill House." The two-story structure includes a master suite, a queen bed, two wood-burning fireplaces, a living room, kitchenette and a private patio overlooking the pond.

Additional renovated accommodations include a log home dating back to 1830, a tobacco barn, an 1812 plantation home, a corn crib and a renovated post office, to name a few.

When we learned that we would be staying at the Post Office, we couldn't help but be intrigued and I have to say it certainly gained our "stamp" of approval. When I later shared pictures of the place, people marveled how unique it was.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

A view of the front porch of the "Post Office."

Can't wait to get into that robe.

An old-fashioned kitchen with a newfangled Keurig.

A working stone fireplace and a coffee table hewn of wood

A view of the woods from our dining room.

The roomy, rustic living room. 

A view of the door from the inside--glad it had a peg lock because we failed at the skeleton key challenge. 

The "Post Office" bedroom, which provided a peaceful night's sleep.

The stairs to the second floor.

The front porch of The Post Office is tailor made for goofing off. 

A neighboring cabin across the way. 

The pond at Stevenson's Ridge

Another view of the neighbor's cabin

An additional shot of the exterior of the Post Office. 

Mike was blowing on the top of that milk jug, slapping his knee and singing a few minutes before I snapped this picture. 

When I started writing this post, I figured that it would be short and sweet, but it turns out that there is a lot to be said about the destinations I've detailed here. There is so much more history to discover in Fredericksburg and much more to write, but I think I'll stop now, but not before I mention Hallowed Ground Tours. Scott Walker, a retired history teacher, tailors his tours to each group he engages, so whether you have a solid knowledge of history or none at all, Walker will work with you to discover your interests and provide accordant information.

My only regret in visiting the area is that we allotted so little time to get the "full-on" Fredericksburg experience. I hear the area is beautiful during the summer, and next year we intend to find out.

Hershey's Antique Automobile Club of America Museum Offers a Little Something for Everyone

Car aficionados come from miles around to enjoy the outstanding collection of automobiles on display at the Antique Automobile Club of America Museum (AACA) in Hershey, but you don't necessarily need to be a car enthusiast to enjoy the tour. I found it both interesting and enlightening.

The Hershey Antique Automobile Club of America (Photo courtesy of the AACA)

The AACA welcomes nearly 70,000 guests per year, with rotating exhibits to keep visitors coming back. Volunteer John Marsh said, "We rotate our cars in and out, so people can see something new every time."

The three-story,70,000 square foot building houses nearly 100 cars and visitors follow a timeline that progresses through the years starting with an Early Model T.

Car pictured against a backdrop of the town of Hershey, Pennsylvania

A permanent exhibit, which fascinates many visitors, features the world's largest collection of Tucker 48 automobiles built by Preston Tucker, a forward-thinking entrepreneur from Michigan. To learn more about Tucker's creativity and ingenuity, consider viewing Francis Ford Coppola's 1988 film, "Tucker: The Man and His Dream." The three vehicles on display at the AACA include the first 'production' prototype, along with number 1022 and 1026--the only Tucker built with an automatic transmission. Tucker crafted each stylish car by hand and touted them as "the car of tomorrow." Today ony 27 are known to exist.

Rare Tucker automobiles on display at the AACA

The AACA is also home to the largest collection of antique buses under one roof. Located on the lower level, the collection includes a 1912 White SF 1038PA bus run by Martz Lines, a 1915 white 15-45 Fullington Autobus Co (Clearfield, Pa) and a 1924 Fageol Safety Coach 12-B.

The AACA is home to the largest collection of antique buses under one roof.

Also on the lower level is a cute, compact diner, which dates back to the 1940s. The restored eatery, once known as the Flo-Inn Cafe, was transported from Wichita, Kansas and was in operation until the 1980s. You can read more about the Flo-Inn Cafe here.

The Flo-Inn Cafe from Witchita Kansas

If you're trying to think of something different to do with the family during the holidays, the AACA is a good choice. The annual "Cars and Christmas" celebration features a vintage Hess toy truck display, a Grinch scavenger hunt and Sammy the 29-ton Snow Plow greets children at the front of the museum.  A perennial favorite for children of all ages is the popular 12-foot-fall, 26-foot long, custom-made Kissmobile cruiser which resembles three Hershey's Kisses and is parked at the main entrance.  An interactive custom train display designed under the leadership of founder Ed Maloy, is also a hit with the little ones.

The famous "Kissmobile"

You can learn more by visiting their website here.

A Museum that Breathes New Life into the Detritus of Broken Relationships

To celebrate our anniversary in early October, my husband and I felt the time was right to visit Los Angeles, just when authorities were warning of a potential earthquake, which, pardon the pun, was a little unsettling. You can read more about that issue here, Around that same time, flights were being canceled due to hurricanes--we always did have good timing. October is a dicey month to fly it seems. In the end, it all worked out, although we were delayed by an hour-and-a-half thanks to United Airlines. I'm still puzzled why that was. We ended up missing our connection and were forced to take the next flight out. Given all the extraneous circumstances, we felt lucky to have encountered just that one issue and our bags actually caught up with us!

After landing at the smallest airport I've ever seen (the Bob Hope airport in Burbank) we were well on our way to an enjoyable time, although the walk to the rental car was a bit of a trek. We learned that when an airport staffer said, "I hope you wore your hiking boots." I suppose it was still much shorter than any walk through LAX.

The tiny Burbank airport

Doing the Touristy Stuff

During our visit we did the typical touristy stuff like visiting the La Brea Tarpits, the Hollywood Walk of Fame and Grauman's Chinese Theatre. The LA weather was wonderful with temps hovering in the low '80s the entire time, enabling us to enjoy a comfortable open-air van tour through Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive. During the 1.5-hour trip, we learned a few details about the celebs and who owned what property. I now refer to the tour as the "Hedges of the Stars tour," although we did get a few clear shots of several that weren't blocked by walls, or greenery. (All these pictures and more will be soon posted on my Cheese Plates and Room Service Facebook page. You can view them by clicking here.) One interesting note: When we passed Drew Carey's house we noticed he had posted a Gary Johnson for President sign out front.

Momentos of the Past

Our visit included more than one stroll down Hollywood Boulevard, where we stumbled on a rather plain building, but for the cryptic and stark sign plastered across the side, which read: Museum of Broken Relationships. Of course, I had to make it my business to return later for a closer look.

Thinking I came upon a real find, I shared it with my North American Travel Journalist Association group and was informed that some of them had already visited the original location in Zagreb, Croatia--what a way to burst my bubble.  Seriously though, the information was helpful in order to learn the launching point for the backstory.

Inside the Museum of Broken Relationships

It turns out that the Hollywood location is the second incarnation of the original idea that had its roots in Croatia when two artists, in the midst of a breakup, pondered on what becomes of treasured objects after the dissolution of a relationship. After four years of touring, a permanent location opened in Zagreb in 2010 and just this year, the sad sediment of sentimentality opened in Hollywood--an apt location where dreams are both created and dashed. Donations come in from around the world and are gratefully accepted.

The collection runs the gamut of items that were once meaningful to the possessors. Stories aren't just relegated to romance; they also include broken relationships with friends, drugs, once-cherished ideologies and more. These stories are laid bare within the protective walls of the museum, many sheltered behind plates of glass. Several rooms of artifacts, sent by anonymous donors are on display on both levels of the museum. Along with the tangible, are the tales of once was--from the wistful, to the sad, to the raging.

A doodled-on mandolin, a shared love of Davida font and a monopoly game crafted by the hands of a loving husband as a 20th-anniversary present are just a few of the items on display. Just 18-months after the husband presented the board game to his wife, she informed him that she no longer loved him. With that, it ended. "I played my 'Get Out of Jail Free' card and I've been 'Advancing Past Go Ever Since,' he writes.

A collection from a couple that loved Davida font.

103 love letters for each day the relationship lasted.

Lovebirds on a mandolin

A monopoly game crafted by a loving husband for their 20th wedding anniversary 

One particularly sad story is that of a broken necklace accidentally ripped from her neck by an infant grandchild who later died a violent death. The story reads: "I cannot say that my heart was broken, a piece of it was torn away and crushed."

Spiral-bound notebooks written in beautiful cursive and photographs span 76 years of family history. They were discovered by a landlord after eviction. My personal wish is that someone will share this and that someday the property will be returned to the rightful owner.

Pages from a notebook documenting 76 years of family history is left behind following an eviction.

I can't say the visit was the most uplifting time I've spent contemplating artifacts in a museum, but it does demonstrate that life goes on after relationships end. We can only hope that with the telling of the stories and the relinquishment of the reminders, that the donors will find the peace that comes with closure. 

Sadly this museum has since closed. Their Zagreb site is still open. This is from the FB page of their site in Los Angeles: "After a successful year & a half at the center & heart of Hollywood, the Museum of Broken Relationships is looking for a new location which will permit it to offer a more dynamic and intimate experience." Keep an eye on their page for future details.  

Ghost Adventures in Maryland and Pennsylvania

I've always enjoyed ghost tours. Last October I actually joined our "Social Travel" meetup group on a "party bus" trip to Gettysburg and I must say it was interesting for the party alone. One of my crafty fellow travelers brought bags of items onboard and made her costume on the way to the destination. When we arrived she was all "decked" out as a Christmas Tree--lights and all!

Because I boarded last, I was relegated to sitting in the rear on a bean bag chair in the renovated school bus where the ride was particularly bumpy. From my bag of tricks I pulled a corkscrew and a wineglass. I attracted a fair amount of attention as they watched me go to work. I must admit I was pretty proud of myself when I failed to spill a single drop and the feat seemed to impress my fellow tipsy travelers as well.

These past few trips were a little more subdued, but I must admit I captured a few interesting pictures in Maryland. Were they ghosts? You can view the photos and decide for yourself.

Gettysburg's Haunted Orphanage

Located at 777 Baltimore Street is the headquarters for the Ghostly Images of Gettysburg tours, where a docent guided me on a tour of the adjoining Civil War orphanage to recount the story of an honorable effort that turned tragic.

The story began with a Union soldier who was found dead on the battlefield, clutching a ferrotype of his three small children. In an effort to locate his family, newspapers around the nation ran with the story and the word spread. After about four months the widow stepped forward and the dead soldier was revealed to be Amos Humiston.

Prominent citizens, "chiefly in Philadelphia," were so moved that they created the National Homestead for Orphans of the United States. The Humiston family took up residence in the institution, with the widow acting as headmistress. All was well until widow Humiston remarried and moved to Massachusetts, leaving the orphanage at the mercy of a cruel headmistress named Rosa Charmichael.

Guests meet at 777 Baltimore Street in Gettysburg, Pa to take the Orphanage Tour

During the 90-minute tour, visitors learn the story of Rosa's reign of terror and can view the basement where those who "misbehaved" were chained. Guests can inspect the "table of toys" that is often disturbed.  Toys often disappear from the table and are found in various places in the basement, according to guides. "Every few months we gather them up and put them back on the table," said Liz Lang.

The table of toys that often end up in other areas of the basement, according to the guide. 

To learn more about Charmichael and how the story ends, you can book a tour by visiting their website at Ghostly Images of Gettysburg.

Touring the Jenny Wade House

Ghostly Images of Gettysburg also features a tour of the Jennie Wade House, which appears much like it did 150 years ago. Wade is known as the only civilian to be killed at the Battle of Gettysburg and the historic house provides guests with a perspective of what life was like when the war wreaked havoc on the town.

Statue of Jennie Wade outside the residence.

Guests may be surprised to learn that Wade didn't actually reside at the house, but was visiting her sister, who had given birth during the Battle. Toiling in the kitchen as her sister convalesced, she was struck by a bullet that pierced two doors.

The breadbox where Jennie Wade worked

Door at the Jennie Wade House where bullet holes are evident.

At the end of the tour, guides lead guests to the basement to view a picture of "What a Mother Saw," to show how Jennie Wade's body was laid out in the dank recesses of the house until the Battle came to an end.

Painting in the basement of the Jennie Wade House, titled, "What A Mother Saw"

An Excursion to Easton Maryland for a Chesapeake Ghost Walk

The Easton Maryland Ghost Walk, one of the Chesapeake Ghost Walking Tours, begins at the beautiful, historic and allegedly haunted Tidewater Inn, which I called home for a few days while visiting the area. A group of us gathered outside the inn to listen to a narrator address the crowd. She told the story of a haunting by Mr. Arthur Grymes, who built the hotel that opened to the public in 1949.  I have yet to make the acquaintance of Mr. Grymes, but hope to if I return.

Narrator tells tales of things that go "bump in the night."

Across the street from the Tidewater Inn  is the Avalon Theater. Built in 1921, the Art Deco style theater allegedly is haunted by a dearly departed actress, whose murdered body was discovered in an elevator, which she rides to this day, according to lore. (One of my favorite performers, Robert Cray, will be appearing there on November 16, by the way.) 

The Avalon Theater, built in 1921, is located on 40 East Dover Street, Easton

Other stops on the Easton Ghost Walk include an old jail, an orphanage, the "Odd Fellows" Hall and Foxley Hall, home of Colonel Oswald Tilghman and known as the "most haunted house in Easton." At the conclusion of my trip, I began researching the house and became a bit sidetracked by an article that ran in The Baltimore Sun in February of 1889. The Board of Trustees of Agriculture of the Eastern Shore of Maryland joined to tantalize their taste buds with an interesting repast. The "test dinner," served at Foxley Hall, was held to decide the "comparative merits of succulent mutton and Chesapeake diamondback terrapins," according to the article.

The newspaper reports that Colonel Tilghman served his guests a "complete Chesapeake Bay dinner," before describing in disturbing detail how the terrapins were cooked alive and subsequently served from chafing dishes. Also on the menu that evening: red-head ducks from Eastern Bay cooked for 18 minutes and salt oysters, served with "subsidiary viands." Ok, so I took a little detour there, but I found it all fascinating and sad for the terrapin.

The ill-fated terrapin

Could it be that Foxley is considered the most haunted house in Easton because the terrapins came back to haunt Tilghman and his cruel band of brothers? The "Terror of the Terrapins" could be a shell of a story, but, alas, it is just a figment of my imagination. The "real" tale, I'm told, is that the house is haunted, in part, due to an insane relative who was confined to the third floor of the Tilghman house. Here's the picture I captured in early September.

The final stop on our tour of haunted Easton was the Spring Hill Cemetary where 10,000 Eastonians have been laid to rest. I snapped a few shots while visiting with our group. 

A member of our group touches what the guide referred to as a "Healing Tree." 

One thing I enjoy about ghost tours is that you learn so much about history and you get to poke around neighborhoods, after dark, within the safety of a group. Snooping around, listening to a little gossip, digging into the story a little more--later, on your own time--it's something most reporters enjoy. At least that's what I surmise. The fact that you might just capture something unusual on camera is merely icing on the cake.