Monday, April 25, 2016

Remembering the Milkman


Working as a milkman was often thankless, but those old enough to remember the days of milk delivery often look back with nostalgia on that period of time when life operated at a slower pace.  Folks would begin the day by opening their doors to retrieve bottles of milk, fresh from the farm, just waiting to be enjoyed by adults and children alike.
Kruger milk delivery in horse and carriage

Sweet Recollections
Maryland resident Judy Bach remembers hearing the clinking bottles early in the morning as the milkman arrived at her house and even recalls a certain jingle after all these years, “If you don’t own a cow, call Cloverland now, North 9222,” she said with a chuckle.

One thing that stands out in Dennis Royer’s mind is a little mischief he engaged in back in those days. The Perry county resident said, “My mother always left a note in the milk box on our front porch with our order. Once I got into trouble by imitating her printing and adding one quart of chocolate milk to the bottom of the note.” He also recalls the bottles being used for something other than milk. “The opening of those returnable bottles was about one- inch wide. At kiddie birthday parties we used to play a game to see who could drop the most old-style clothes pins into those bottles by holding the clothes pins at waist height.”

Pat Fallon, who currently lives in Catasauqua, said, “My grandmother lived in an old, but well-maintained, four-floor apartment building in Scranton. There were two apartments per floor, with a common stairwell in the center. I can still remember hearing the clinking of the glass milk bottles as the milkman went up and down the stairs leaving cold bottles of milk on the back porches. Everyone used to have a little milk box by their back door. The bottles of milk had a small round cardboard lid that fit snug just down in the top of the glass bottle; you pulled up with a little tab in the center to pry it open. The bottles were smooth, curved glass, but they were easy to handle and pour as they were not that big in diameter and fit in your hand. I think they had an emblem engraved in them instead of a paper label.”
Old milk bottles, courtesy of the East Pennsboro Historical Society

Starting a Successful Milk Delivery Business
According to most accounts, milk delivery began in the 1800s, when milkmen traveled by wagon, with cans full of the product, which they ladled out with dippers into customer-provided containers.

Carlisle resident Charles Kruger, now in his mid-80s, tells how milk not only nourished his family physically, but provided for them financially as well. “Sometime around 1916 or 1917, my mother made a deal with this farmer to bring his milk in and she would peddle it. Those days they used buckets, crocks, jars--whatever customers brought to hold the milk. Kids would pull the express wagon with the can of milk on it.

My dad was a railroader and he got hurt, so he had to quit and do other things. During WWI, they conscripted the railroad guys to haul equipment to the seaports, so dad returned to the railroad. At that time, my mom sold milk off her wagon. When the war was over, all the railroad guys got their jobs back, so my dad was bumped. He said, ‘mother, how we gonna make a living?’ She said, ‘well, this milk business isn’t so bad,’ so dad bought a horse and wagon and started to peddle milk,” he said.

Kruger said his father would visit a local farm after the twice-a-day milking. “He started to cool the milk in an ice bath and stirred it until it was cold. What he was doing was stopping the growth of bacteria because most people’s milk was sour in the morning as it curdled overnight,” he said, adding that his dad’s milk became popular because it would last several days. “They thought we were putting something in it,” he said with a laugh.

Before homogenization, customers would have to shake the milk to distribute the cream evenly. Kids, in particular, used to enjoy the cream that would rise to the top. “In the winter, when the milk froze, it would pop up the cap and the first kid out the door would get the cream ball,” said Kruger. 

The Plights of the Profession
As milk delivery became increasingly popular, the milkmen of yore contended with problems unique to the profession. An article in the San Francisco Chronicle, dated September 6, 1902, said, “He comes and goes like a shadow in the early dawn, communicated with, if at all, by means of notes, which he has to strike a match to read.” It continues with tales of beleaguered milkmen who were vexed with a litany of issues. Inspectors would halt them on the street and subject their milk to a lactometer test, forcing those who failed to dump their product out on the streets, or into the marshes. Thieving competitors, who would run short on their own routes, might swipe a few bottles from another’s porch delivery. 

The article suggests there was a time when milkmen held keys to residences. “He is baffled by bunches of keys for which he must select one for every door along his route.”

Until delivery trucks arrived on the scene, another challenge milkmen faced was training the horses where to stop along the route. “We had horses until 1939 on two routes,” said Kruger. “They were later replaced by a specialized Diamond T Pack-Age Car, which was open on both sides. Often the helpers on the trucks would run out both sides at the same time.” 

Other problems revolved around the milk bottles themselves--from the lazy customer who refused to wash them, to the careless ones who forgot to return them and the unscrupulous scofflaws who had other ideas for their use.   

Milkmen often returned from their routes short many a bottle. One reported catching a customer preserving fruits in his bottles and sharing a laugh with her about it, only to return later with helpers to recapture the stolen bottles.  Needless to say, he wasn’t invited back. Many a milkman may have welcomed the advent of “returnable bottles,” which gave customers a financial incentive to “remember” to relinquish them.

The onset of the war brought even further challenges to the milkmen. “They were trying to conserve fuel, so delivery was reduced to every other day,” said Kruger. “Our competitors found this out and used it against us, delivering on the off days, so instead of a family ordering four quarts from us, they’d order two from us and two from the other guy,” he said.

Before insulated porch boxes were used, sunlight would oxidize milk left on the doorstep. Kruger tells the story of how a local glass company made an error on a large lot of amber bottles. “We got a heck of a deal on a bunch of them,” he said, adding that they just labeled over the problem. The dark protected the milk from the sunlight, providing his company with a competitive edge. “We marketed it as more wholesome,” said Kruger.

Old four-inch-high creamers, courtesy of the East Pennsboro Historical Society
The End of an Era?
As time passed, so did the need for the milkman.  Refrigerators reduced the need for frequent deliveries and many families purchased second cars so any spouse could drive to the supermarket whenever the need arose. Soon dairies like Kruger’s began to merge in order to stay in business.
The age of milk delivery reached its nadir near the 1970's, although some businesses continued the practice years later.

Today milk delivery is more of a novelty, although a search on the internet proves that it’s still taking place.  Here in Central Pennsylvania, a business called Mr. Milkman touts home delivery in Cumberland, Dauphin, York and surrounding counties. Does this prove that what’s old is new again and that there’s a modern market for the days of old? Only time will tell, but for now there will always be those who long for the good old days when the cream would always rise to the top.


Thursday, April 14, 2016

Exploring Cozumel

During the last leg of our 2016 Flower Power Cruise, we docked in Cozumel, an island in the Caribbean off the eastern coast of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. To make the most of the few hours available, we purchased "The Best of Cozumel" tour package from the cruise line and hit the ground running. 

Duty-free shops offering liquor, jewelry and souvenirs were directly located at the end of the pier and we took a few minutes to browse among the many selections before climbing aboard a van that whisked us away to our first stop, "Discover Mexico." 

A visit to "Discover Mexico" starts with a short film portraying the Mexican people, their culture, crafts and countryside. Afterwards, visitors stroll through a small arts and crafts museum. This particular sculpture is known as a "Tree of Life." Such modeled clay sculptures originated in the colonial period as a way for Spanish friars to teach the biblical story of creation to the native population. They later included non-biblical representations. This one is covered in Monarch butterflies, which are known for their annual winter migration to a remote spot in Mexico. 
folkart
"Tree of Life"
Seen here is sand art titled "Our Lady of Guadalupe" and an attractive folk art trunk.

Our Lady of Guadalupe Sand Sculpture

Mexican folk art
Folk art trunk
As we made our way outside to the park and walked the grounds, we encountered miniature representations of various Mexican landmarks, like the Great Pyramid of Cholula. Located four miles west of Puebla, it is the largest man-made structure in the world by volume. Dating back to 300 BC, the structure was built in six stages, with the Oto-Manguean as the original architects. In 600 AD, the Oto-Manguean were conquered by the Olmeca-Xicallana, who added another layer to the pyramid. Between 900 and 1300 AD, they, too, were conquered and the Toltecs added more layers. Finally, when the Aztecs conquered the city, the inhabitants fled and it fell into ruin.  

When archaeologists tunneled into the the pyramid, they discovered the remains of 400 sacrificial victims, many of whom were children of both sexes. 
The Great Pyramid of Cholula

Another miniature site included Palenque's Temple of the Inscriptions. Founded around 2,200 years ago, the pre-Columbian city of Palenque is located in the Mexican state of Chiapas. The Temple of the Inscriptions was built as a tomb for K'inich Janaab' who was known as one of the city's great leaders. It is said to be decorated with some of the most detailed inscriptions in Mayan glyphs ever discovered, giving an account of rulers and their accomplishments.
Palenque's Temple of the Inscriptions
The old village of Miguel de Xamancab
This gentleman was making customized bracelets with thread in record time at the park.
After viewing to-scale replicas, we were treated to this daredevil exhibition before boarding the van to the Mayan Cacao Company. (The full video can be seen on the Cheese Plates and Room Service Facebook site since blogger wouldn't allow it here.)
The "Discover Mexico" park tour finale.

At the Mayan Cacao Company we learned a little more about the history of chocolate and its roots in  the Mayan culture. Afterwards, we participated in a chocolate tasting and were served an authentic mole on a tortilla crafted onsite. My husband, meanwhile, sneaked off to snap pictures of birds he discovered on the property.
The Mayan Cacao Company offers tastings, demonstrations and products at their gift shop.
chocolate
A chocolate-making demonstration. 
Birds cozy up on the premises of the Mayan Cacao Company.
Next, we were off  to what was once the capital of Cozumel. El Cidral is a small village and is home to the oldest Mayan Ruins on the island, dating back to 800 AD. Here a warrior guards the ruins and tourists pay for pictures. 
"Mayan Warrior" guards the ruins.
During our time in El Cidral, we browsed some of the souvenir shops and I purchased a pair of silver earrings for a very reasonable price, but of course bartering is de rigueur in El Cidral and the shopkeeper accepted my first offer. Afterwards, she followed me around urging me to buy more before hustling me over to her brother's tequila shop. I learned later that a few people have had issues with some heavy handedness of some of the merchants and that it's better to visit El Cidral as part of a tour group than trying to "wing" it on your own. We escaped to join our scheduled tequila tasting at the Hacienda Tequila Museum just a few doors down.

There we learned a little about the history of tequila and gathered around to try five different types of the beverage made from the blue agave plant. I am not a fan of tequila, but I enjoyed all of the samples--go figure. Perhaps it was the setting and the fact that I was on vacation. I left before any of the salespeople spotted me and learned later the prices on the tequila were quite high.
Let the tequila tasting commence
Before we boarded the van to our next stop on the island, we stepped inside the first Catholic church built on Cozumel. Located up on a hill near the small ruins, the chapel is open for visitors and we had the place to ourselves as we strolled around taking pictures.
old church
Inside the first Catholic Church erected in Cozumel.


Our tour van traveled along the eastern shore of the island for a brief stop at the beautiful El Mirador beach where we had just enough time to snap a few scenes and spot a bride posing for wedding pictures.
beaches
Scenes from El Mirador beach
After strolling the beach for 15 minutes, it was time to head to our next destination. My heart-rock-collecting friend asked me to find her one for her collection while visiting Cozumel, so we had to scour the beach in record time. I didn't think I did too bad with this one.

Our final tour stop was San Miguel, where we enjoyed lunch at Pancho's Backyard , an attractively appointed restaurant where we snacked on a sampler platter of typical Mexican fare.  Afterward, we browsed the large gift shop located in the front of the restaurant and stocked with a wide variety of Mexican products.
A picture taken from our seat through the windows of Pancho's Backyard.
On the way back to the ship, I viewed San Miguel from the windows of the van and wished they would have allowed us more time to walk the streets, stroll along the wide sidewalks next to the seawall, or peer inside the shops and galleries, but the clock was ticking and the ship was waiting. Perhaps another time.

Although it was a whirlwind tour, it was a lot of fun and I felt like now we have a good sense of where we should spend more time should we decide to return.



Monday, March 28, 2016

Visiting Key West and the Hemingway House

Ports of call on the Flower Power Cruise 2016 included a stop in Key West, a small city in Florida, which is walkable at only four miles long, so we set out on a self-guided tour of the area. Our time was limited, but we did manage to see a lot in the few hours we were there before returning back to the ship. Because it was the first week of March, the weather hovered at a comfortable 73 degrees.
One of the first buildings we passed was the Key West Art & Historical Society Custom House. The landmark is an award-winning museum and home to the Key West Historical Society and if we had more time, we would have ventured inside. These cool statues out front caught my eye.
Statues in front of Art & Historical Society Custom House Museum

Our next stop was Mallory Square, which I understand is hopping at night. It was a good place to scout out a few bargains, from jewelry, to clothing and souvenirs. I ended up with a cute pair of sandals that cost a mere $10. The place was rather sedate that particular morning, I suspect because the "Sunset Viewing Party" is the big event of the day. During that time, street performers entertain the crowds who flock there to be amazed and amused. I found this clip of some of the regular performers captured on YouTube. Because we were instructed to be back on board the ship by 4 p.m., we had no choice but to miss the popular event, along with the Shipwreck Museum and the Aquarium also located in the complex.
Sights at Mallory Square

During our stroll around the island, I was impressed with the quiet beauty of the area and snapped a few pictures of the surroundings--including this house, formerly owned by Joseph Yates Porter, the first health officer for the state of Florida. Across the street, a Yuengling truck pulled up to make a delivery to the Whistle Bar, which reminded me of my home in Pennsylvania where it seems like everyone is a Yuengling fan. As we gazed up at the top deck of the Whistle Bar, we noticed a sign that read "clothing optional." My husband said he saw a topless woman through the slats. I noticed he was squinting pretty hard, but I kept it moving, ha.
Beautiful travelers palms, ficus trees and ginger blooms dotted the island. We spotted a few interesting trees as well. Shown below is a Banyon and a Kapok. Kapok trees were known as the sacred tree of the Mayans and used to make caskets and dugout canoes.
Formerly home to Joseph Porter Yates, M.D. and first health official of the state of Florida.

A taste of Pennsylvania in Key West.

Banyon Tree
Hens and roosters are also a common site in Key West and were originally brought to the area by Cuban refugees back in the 1950's. Today, they are considered part of the area's charm.

Roosters are a common sight in Key West.

During our walk, we stumbled upon the  "Little White House." The dwelling, constructed in 1890, was home to Navy officers. In 1911, it was converted into a single family residence. Theodore Roosevelt visited in 1917, 1926 and 1939 and Thomas Edison stayed at the house for six months while working on 41 new weapons during World War II. Harry Truman used the house for 175 days during his administration and eventually the dwelling became known as the "Little White House." President Dwight D. Eisenhower conducted meetings there while recovering from a heart attack and Bill and Hillary Clinton used the house as a weekend retreat. The structure is considered the birthplace of the U.S. Department of Defense and the U.S. Air Force. Tours are conducted daily every 20 minutes from 9-4:30. 
The "Little White House."
We decided to forego the "Little White House" tour due to the rather long line and because I had my sights set on the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum located about a mile away. When we arrived, we were free to venture inside, at which time I had a few minutes to shoot a picture of the dining room and kitchen before the crowds poured in. 
Outside of the Hemingway Home and Museum
Kitchen and dining room of the Hemingway home.
                                    

During the tour, we learned all about the Hemingway homestead and a little more about the life of the prolific writer. The house was built in 1851 and Hemingway resided there from 1931 to 1939 with his second wife Pauline. The dwelling was presented to the couple as a wedding gift from Pauline's Uncle Gus, who purchased it for $8,000. The grounds are also home to 54 descendant cats, many of whom are polydactyl and consume about 80 pounds of food a week. We learned that Hemingway was once a boxer, a bit on the clumsy side and suffered from a total of nine concussions, which may have contributed to his sometimes erratic behavior.
This picture was taken just a few weeks before the famous writer committed suicide.
We also viewed his writing quarters which, in the past, were initially accessed via a catwalk from the second floor of the main house.  The catwalk no longer exists and visitors climb a set of narrow stairs resembling a fire escape to peek into the room, which is barred off to direct entry. Here the late Nobel prize winner penned works like "For Whom the Bell Tolls," "Death in the Afternoon," and the "Snows of Kilimanjaro."
Hemingway's writing room.
The Hemingway headboard is a gate from a monastery and yes, that's a real cat.
The in-ground pool seen below was a bone of contention between husband and wife. According to the guide, his intention was to build a boxing ring, but when Pauline got wind of one of his affairs, she commissioned a crew to install a pool for $20,000--a mighty sum for the time and understandably so since the labor intensive project was hand dug with pickaxes. To this day, it is the largest residential swimming pool in Key West.

Word has it that when Hemingway learned of the cost, he tossed a penny on the ground and said, "Well, you might as well have my last cent." She memorialized the moment and visitors can view the penny embedded in the cement.
Hemingway's "last cent."
The urinal he dragged back from Sloppy Joe's (his favorite bar) during a renovation is now a water source for the cats that roam the grounds.

One of the 54 happy cats who lay claim to the Hemingway home and grounds.

When the couple parted ways and Hemingway set off for Cuba, Pauline resided in the home until her death in 1951, after which the family decided to sell it to Bernice Dixon, who now runs the museum. Thirty-minute tours are conducted 365 days a year from 9 to 5 p.m.  Tickets (cash only) can be purchased at the door. Prices can be seen here.

As we walked down the street a few blocks from the Hemingway House, we spotted this structure with an interesting plaque out front. I researched the house a bit and didn't learn much, other than the realtor said it was built in 1928, so someone is likely pulling our legs. Last I heard, the house was for sale.


On the way back to the ship, we peeked in a few shops and I snapped a picture of the infamous "Sloppy Joes," which friends tells me is huge now, compared to 20 years ago. Here's a link to the history and a few pictures of how it looked back "in the day."
We shopped a bit on Duval Street and enjoyed lunch in the courtyard of a lovely restaurant called Bagatelle, before returning to the ship.
Uncharacteristically quiet moment on Duval Street
A unique truck we spotted parked on the walk to the Hemingway House.

We chose Bagatelle as our lunch destination.

To learn more about travel in the Florida Keys and Key West, visit their website by clicking here.

To view more pictures, visit and be sure to "like" the facebook page here: Cheese Plates and Room Service

Next up: A little more about our brief time in Cozumel.