On the Road to Doylestown

As a Pennsylvania resident who enjoys spending weekends exploring various regions, I was surprised when someone suggested a trip to Doylestown. "Doylestown, really?" I asked. I'd driven past it, but never through it, so after some research I packed my bags for a two-day visit. I was so impressed that I ended up pricing real estate in the area. 

Located just 27 miles north of Philadelphia, the town rivals nearby destinations like New Hope, but compared to New Hope, it's less "Wavy Gravy" and more "James Michener," one of the many artists and writers who settled in the area.

Specialty shops line the streets of the historic downtown area, providing an array of items from antiques, to art, clothing, jewelry and accessories.   

Located in the heart of the town is the Doylestown Inn, which dates back to 1902. The 11-room boutique hotel is full of charm and character, from the wall of vintage suitcases that captures guests' attention on check in, to the old phone booth located in the lobby. Our comfortable and spacious room, located on the second floor, was equipped with a fireplace and Jacuzzi and personal service is reminiscent more of a bed and breakfast than a traditional hotel.

The outside of the Doylestown Hotel.

Dining in Doylestown

Because we were staying at the Doylestown Inn, we chose to dine at the onsite restaurant, "The Hattery Stove and Still," named for a hat shop, which once operated on the premises. As with the Inn itself, special little details capture the eye like the two-story hat tree, "bowler" hat lights which hang above the bar, gilded mirrors hung on exposed brick walls, bench seating which resembles coffee sacks and a bar crafted from a 1936 Oldsmobile, which is located in the dimly lit "speakeasy" located at the lower-level bar.

Hattery Stove & Still

Fare runs the gamut from burgers to steaks, veal, fish and pasta dishes, served in a creative atmosphere with something to see at every turn.

For a casual lunch, the Hickory Kitchen is within walking distance of the Doylestown Hotel and is a favorite of barbecue lovers near and far. It sets itself apart from the crowd by offering vegan options as well.

Visiting Fonthill Castle

If there's one place you must see in Doylestown, it's Fonthill Castle, once home to Henry Chapman Mercer.

Fonthill Castle (Photo: Jeff Fusco)

A Mercer tile

Mercer was an industrious, quirky fellow who was known as a leader in the turn-of-the-century Arts and Crafts Movement. His tiles decorate the floor of the state Capitol in Harrisburg, representing 254 scenes ranging from artifacts, to birds, insects, animals and industries.

Mercer chose concrete to build his castle due to its fireproof nature and alarmed the townsfolk back in the early 1900's by christening it with a rooftop bonfire.

The Bucks County Historical Society now owns the medieval style structure and conducts tours there seven days a week. 

The castle contains 44 rooms, 10 bathrooms, five bedrooms and 18 fireplaces. Guests who step outside on the terrace will see the weather vane created in homage to the workhorse named Lucy, who helped build the structure. 

During the tour, guides tell the story of the lifelong bachelor, his penchant for entertaining, his boundless energy, prolific creativity and his insatiable curiosity. Mercer's extensive tile collection is on display throughout the castle. Tiles are everywhere, embedded on ceilings, stairs, walls and many places in between.

Reading room at Fonthill

Ceiling tile at Fonthill

Mercer's love of tile inspired him to found the Moravian Pottery and Tile Company in 1912. Located on the same tract of land. It, too, is open to the public seven days a week as a "working history museum."

Inside the Moravian Pottery Works

Those interested in taking the tours should check the websites and call in advance. Prepare to spend about 75 minutes viewing the castle and do wear comfortable shoes to avoid foot fatigue caused by traversing the cold, hard concrete floors.

Tool Displays Aplenty at the Mercer Museum

Also within walking distance from the Doylestown Inn is the Mercer Museum. The six-story high, concrete structure contains more than 50,000 artifacts, telling the story of American progress through tool displays. 

Artifacts hang from the Mercer Museum

Mercer, the original "American Picker," started the tool collection by attending auctions, rummaging through barns, attics and yards of junk dealers. Eventually word spread and collectors began contacting him and before long he had established an elaborate collectors' network.

Tools inside the Mercer Museum

Stagecoach inside the Mercer Museum

More than 60 early American trades like blacksmithing, fishing, tanning and butchering are represented and organized in groups in rooms, alcoves and displays throughout the museum. Be sure to look up to see the larger pieces like sleighs and whaling boats that hang from the ceiling and look down to see footprints of Mercer's faithful dog Rollo.

The James Michener Art Museum

Sculptures outside the James Michener Art Museum.

Also ocated near downtown in a 19th-century prison is the James Michener Art Museum named after the prolific Pulitzer prize-winning author. The museum features historic and contemporary American works, with a concentration on Bucks county notables.

Outside of the James Michener Art Museum

To the left of the front entrance is a room dedicated to the late writer and featuring artifacts like his typewriter, manuscripts and ephemera that tell the story of his life. 

Michener artifacts

Permanent exhibitions include outdoor art and sculpture, Bucks County landscape paintings, along with modern and contemporary art. 

The Wooded Watershed Lunette

Sculpture outside of the James Michener Art Museum

These are just a few of the attractions that left me scratching my head wondering why I hadn't visited Doylestown sooner. 

Oh and if you stay at the Doylestown Hotel, be sure to visit the great used book store located directly across the street.  

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Facing the New Year in an Uncertain Industry

First of all, I'd like to wish everyone a happy and healthy New Year. The upcoming months will certainly be interesting to say the least, with elections looming and so many other changes that are likely to ensue, including those in the newspaper industry.

For those who don't know me, I began freelance writing five years ago after spending years in education until a $22 million deficit forced layoffs.

As a writer, I'm not altogether sure what to expect these next 362 days and because of that, I keep a wary eye on newspaperdeathwatch.com.  It seemed the minute I started this new "venture" is when the industry started taking on water and so I often feel like I'm on a sinking ship. I have been known to say more than once, "I picked a good time to start freelance writing." When I do, my mind wanders to this clip, which still cracks me up, but then again, I'm a big fan of the short-lived Police Squad too, so there you have it.

For several years, I freelanced for one of the leading newspapers in our area and then the hammer came down. The popular periodical, which launched in 1854, and during its heyday was published twice daily, reduced print production to three days a week starting on January 1, 2013. With the changes, so went the majority of the freelancers.

Thankfully, I am still employed by two other newspapers, but these days I'm noticing far fewer pitches being accepted at one, likely due to a reduced six-day a week schedule, or maybe end-of-the-year budget concerns, but speculation at this point is simply that. Other changes have been implemented as well, including the elimination of coverage in certain municipalities and a reduction in home delivery to several areas. 

I live about an hour away from the home based of another newspaper where I've been assigned steady work over the years. Not long ago, I visited the city, only to witness the building up for sale. (See Airplane! clip again.)

I love working for both newspapers, but the second one covers most of the big acts that perform at the Luhr's Center in Shippensburg, Pa. Because of this, I have had the opportunity to interview music stars like Peter Noone, Robert Cray, Walt Parazaider of Chicago (such a nice man) and Rodney Justo, lead vocalist of the Atlanta Rhythm Section, to name just a few. Today Danny Hutton from Three Dog Night called me and we're scheduled for an interview tomorrow.

I still work regularly for a local monthly publication that is going strong and several regional magazines as well, so for now, I'm managing to stay busy.

This year gets a B- on the rating scale due to newspaper cut backs, but brights spots include a new food column and the invitation to two press trips, which were a lot of fun and a good learning experience.

For the new year, I plan on pitching to more national publications and continuing with this relatively new blog--which I hope to upgrade as time passes.

I am more than anxious for January 4 to get here because things grind to a halt during the holidays. Few folks are available for interviews and queries stay maddeningly stuck in the queue.

I did manage to get some work done during the past two weeks however and combined it with a stay at the Radisson Blu in Philly where we visited our favorite places like Rittenhouse Square, Liberty Place and diBruno Bros. In between, I paid a work visit to Longwood Gardens, in Kennett Square, Pa. The trip through Gratz alone was worth it with its rolling countryside and Amish buggies everywhere. I never saw so many hawks in one place either--too bad I couldn't get pictures of them.

Traveling through Stroudsburg, Pa

A plethora of buggies were spotted in and around Gratz, Pa

 Lobby of the Radisson Blu Warwick, Philadelphia

 

Longwood Gardens is a beautiful place and worthy of a visit. An orchid extravaganza is coming up in a few weeks and in summer the grounds are breathtaking. You can read more in the article I wrote for the Chambersburg Public Opinion here.

Meanwhile, here are a few pictures that didn't make the 'cut.'

Behold the Beauty of Bryn Athyn's Glencairn Museum

Located in Montgomery County in the bucolic borough of Bryn Athyn, is a spectacular residence-turned-museum that is home to an impressive collection of some of the finest antiquities in the nation.

The stately structure looms high atop a hill at the top of Cathedral Road, a castle-like Romanesque building that will make you question for a moment if you're been transported beyond our shores. 

Glencairn Museum in Bryn Athyn, Pa in the winter

The Cathedral

The mansion, deemed "Glencairn," was once home to Raymond and Mildred Pitcairn and their eight children. Open to the public since 1982, the structure serves as a museum of religious art and history. The building houses thousands of works of art from Greece, Rome, Medieval Europe, ancient Egypt and the Near East and showcases one of the finest private collections of French Medieval stained glass in the country. On average, more than 21,000 guests tour the museum every year.

Just a few of the many beautiful stained-glass windows that adorn the interior of the Glencairn Museum

Following the Tenets of the "New Church"
The Gothic Cathedral that is located within viewing distance of Bryn Athyn's Glencairn Museum and the adjacent home named Cairnwood, were all built as a tribute to the faith embraced by Raymond and his father John Pitcairn.

John hailed from Scotland, arriving in the United States in 1846 and soon afterwards was baptized into the church whose adherents followed the teachings of Swedish scientist and theologian Emanuel Swedenbord (1688-1722.) Swedenborg provided guidelines for having a relationship with God and bringing religion to everyday life.

John left home to work on the Pennsylvania railroad at a young age, starting out as a telegraph operator and rising to the rank of Superintendent. During the 1870s oil boom, he amassed enough wealth to co-found the Pittsburgh Plate Glass Company.

Pitcairn later moved to Philadelphia and befriended Rev. Henry Benade, the first pastor of the "New Church" and the two traveled to Egypt and the Holy Land to share their message. During this time, Pitcairn and Benade transported more than 1,0000 artifacts, from pottery, to bronze statues and amulets, to name a few.

Antiquities that populate the Glencairn Museum

By the end of the 19th century, John was a wealthy industrialist and was able to purchase land in Montgomery County, building a home in Bryn Athyn, which he named Cairnwood. There he and his wife Gertrude raised three sons, with Raymond being the eldest. Raymond exhibited a love of architecture at a young age and pursued the passion throughout his life.

When Raymond married Mildred Glenn in 1910, the couple moved into Cairnwood and he embarked upon the ambitious project of building a medieval-style cathedral on the grounds for New Church practitioners to worship. The project took more than 14 years to complete and was dedicated in 1919, after which, Raymond turned his attention to the construction of Glencairn. Much of Pitcairn's collection of medieval Christian art, which is considered to be one of the nation's finest, served as models for the artists and craftsmen who worked on the Bryn Athyn Cathedral.

The Glencairn Collection
The 90-room, 11-story mansion's exterior is crafted from Massachusett's granite, greystone from Pennypack Creek and feldspar from New York. Approximately 8,000 objects are housed within, including an impressive collection of stained glass, of which Raymond was an avid collector.

Planning around his collection was of utmost importance to Raymond as he designed the dwelling and went to great lengths to ensure the pieces fit logically and naturally to highlight them to their utmost within the given setting.

The first thing guests will encounter upon entering is the five-story, impressive and imposing Great Hall, illuminated by the sunlight, which streams through the colorful panes of stained glass. The Hall, which once served as the family's living room, features the largest mosaic in the building with a rendering of the school seal for the Academy of the New Church, which was the Alma mater of both Raymond and Mildred Pitcairn. Medieval furniture, Persian rugs, sculptures and six, 22-foot-high, full-scale replicas of Chartres Cathedral windows remind visitors of how diminutive they seem in comparison.

One of the first rooms guests encounter

Where the family spent time, with the grandchildren putting on plays on the stage shown above.

Tour guides escort visitors to the children's bedroom, which are now art galleries and feature Medieval Christian and American Indian antiquities,along with pieces from ancient Egypt, ancient Greece, the ancient Near East, ancient Rome and Asia.

Guests will be guided to the fifth-floor chapel where the family worshiped and will view a magnificent mosaic depicting a scene from the Bible from the book of Revelation, large tablets inscribed with the Ten Commandments in Hebrew and the Lord's Prayer written in Greek.

A trip to the observation tower is a must. Available to guests via elevator, the glass enclosure affords breathtaking view of the Bryn Athyn Cathedral and the Philadelphia skyline.

The observation tower

To learn more about Glencairn Museum and upcoming events, visit: http://www.glencairnmuseum.org/

A Christmas Visit to Jim Thorpe

If you live in Pennsylvania and are itching for a change of scenery, it's likely that Jim Thorpe, located about 75 minutes from Philadelphia and just 30 minutes from Allentown, is a good choice for a day trip.

The town of Jim Thorpe was originally known as "Mauch Chunk," a derivation of a phrase meaning "Bear Place" in the language of the native Munsee-Lenape Delaware peoples. This quaint little gem of an area is located in Carbon County, Pennsylvania and has been deemed the "Switzerland of America" by the Swiss Tourist board due to its mountainous terrain, attractive scenery and stunning architecture.

During the summer, outdoor enthusiasts flock to the area for hiking, biking, rafting and kayaking and for leaf peepers, it's a stunning fall destination.

Tourists aren't as plentiful this time of year, but that's what makes it especially appealing to those who enjoy a more laid-back atmosphere. Christmas shoppers can take their time strolling along the streets and viewing the many attractive homes and quaint shops that line Broadway and Race streets.  

Beth Beers and her mother operate a shop at 31 Race Street  called "Everything Nice Gift Shop," which features a wide variety of gifts, including games, home decor, candles and toys, to name a few. Beers meets people who visit from all around and is often amazed how far people travel. "This sleepy little town was on their list of places to see," she said.

Lodging Options Abound

For those who are interested in staying overnight, there are several choices in the heart of town including "Rosemary Remembrances II guest lodging," located off Trapp Alley. The studio apartment is equipped with everything you need to stay one night, or several days, including a refrigerator, stove, cabinets full of dishes and a dining table.

For those who prefer to stay at a Bed and Breakfast, The Times House on Race Street is elegantly appointed and centrally located. The building was home to "The Times-News," from 1927 to 1967. For Diane Prokop, a freelance writer who worked for two newspapers with the word "Times" in their names, the purchase was meant to be. 

The Times House Bed and Breakfast was once home to a newspaper business.

Another convenient choice steeped in history is the Inn at Jim Thorpe, which dates back to 1849. More information on the history of the Inn can be found here. 

Dining Suggestions
Dining options are plentiful around town and range from casual establishments like the Molly McGuire's Pub and Steakhouse, owned by the Behan family of Dublin, Ireland, to more upscale options like Moya and Tony Stella's Encore, which he operates from a mansion once owned by General Charles Albright, the lead prosecuting attorney of the notorious Molly McGuires.

Moya Restaurant at 24 Race Street

Encore is especially known for its elegant dinner fare, featuring lamb, veal, seafood and beef, with owner Stella often taking the reins in the middle of the dining room flambeing bananas Foster for some lucky customer.

Before departing, be sure to check out the absinthe room in the rear of the restaurant.

Absinthe served at Tony Stella's Encore

Musical Entertainment
For musical entertainment, look no further than the Mauch Chunk Opera House. The historic building opened in 1882 where the comedy Edgewood Folks was performed before a packed house. 

The old Opera House soon became a regular stop along the Vaudeville Circuit, with Al Jolson and May West performing regularly. It ceased operations as a performing venue in 1959 as audiences dwindled due to the popularity of television and movies. For years, the building was used as a warehouse, until the Mauch Chunk historical society purchased it in 1974 and set about bringing the building back to its former glory.

Mauch Chunk Opera House , which first opened in 1892

Today, music takes center stage, with a Grateful Dead tribute band slated for December 18 and a Springsteen Tribute Band scheduled for December 26, along with a New Year's Eve Dance party on December 31. Learn more about upcoming shows in 2016 here.  

A bit off the beaten path is Penn's Peak, which is also a well-attended music venue, with a gorgeous view, especially in the summertime. Learn more about Penn's Peak and upcoming shows here .

These few suggestions should keep you busy during your time in Jim Thorpe.You'll pass by the  historic Dimmick Memorial Library which is located in the center of town and dates back to 1890. Don't fail to stop in and take in the beautiful wood work.

Dimmick Memorial Library dating back to 1890.

The Asa Packer Mansion and the Old Jail are stories that should be told too. I'll post more about them at a later date since they aren't slated to reopen until May.

Visiting the Shriver House Museum in Gettysburg

If you're visiting Gettysburg this holiday season, you may want to pay a visit to the Shriver House Museum.

The Shriver House--view from outside

Located in the historic district, the Shriver House Museum exists to educate the public on the Civil War from a civilian perspective. 

During a recent visit, a docent dressed in period dress told the story of the Shriver family--George, Hettie and their two daughters Mollie and Sadie.

The Shriver family were well-to-do thanks, in part, to George's father, who ran a prosperous farm and was in the liquor manufacturing business. He died when George was only 16, leaving him quite an impressive inheritance, which included 3,000 gallons of liquor and a 200-acre farm.  

Just two years later, George married Hettie Weikert.  The couple started a family of their own, selling a portion of his farm to acquire a property on Baltimore Street where the family would reside and where George would operate a business known as "Shriver's Saloon & 10-Pin Alley." 

The saloon would be located in the basement of the home and the 10-pin alley would operate in a building erected in the backyard.

Just as soon as everything was built and ready to go, war broke out and in 1861 George volunteered to serve. Both he and his wife thought he would be away for a short period of time, but this turned out to be untrue and the businessman-turned soldier served for several years, returning to visit only once before being captured by Confederate soldiers and taken to Andersonville Prison in Georgia, known for its cruel conditions. It was there George died in 1864.

Guests are shown the parlor, which today is decorated for the season with a small Christmas tree taking center stage and adorned with simple ornaments, small flags and candles, which we are told were generally lit once. 

The Parlor of the Shriver House

Simplicity ruled the day in the mid 1800's during this time of year and small, inexpensive gifts were usually inserted "on" the tree in between the branches." For a person who always wondered why the lyrics of White Christmas," described presents as being on the tree, this was a moment of clarity for me.  

We were shown the dining room where the food was served, Hettie's kitchen with its impressive stove (due to their wealthy economic status), the sitting room and the bedrooms upstairs.

The dining area of the Shriver House

Shriver House bedrooms

A curious thing happened to me outside of one of the bedroom's upstairs when I took the tour. As I listened attentively to the docent, my stomach began aching, causing me to break out in a sweat from head to toe. Too embarrassed to make a scene, I withstood the urge to leave the group, fanning myself with literature I had picked up along the way. When we moved from the area, the pain passed.

I have to admit that I have been in all sorts of structures in Gettysburg, including the attic and the basement of the Farnswarth House, alone with just a docent and nothing like this had happened to me before, so I really didn't know what to think.

More upstairs rooms in the Shriver House. Docent points out the Necco Wafers in the foreground. So now you know why they taste like the 1830s.

 
As we continued on in our tour, the docent told the story of the family leaving the house, only to return and find that it had been taken over by Confederate soldiers. We learned what scenes the family encountered in the fields surrounding their house and that the odor could be smelled as far away as Harrisburg. 

In the attic, guests will see where soldiers took turns keeping watch and firing at the enemy, while others passed the time in a separate, dimly lit area. (This you'll have to experience during your visit since the Shriver House prohibits flash photos.) 

Attic "nest" where soldiers were on watch

Modern CSI detectives using luminal determined that at least two deaths occurred in the attic perch.

Guests will end their tour with a trip to the basement which leads to an area where a makeshift operating table was crafted out of a piece of wood and two barrels. Just a few steps away is the home of what would have been the Shriver's Saloon, had it opened. Sadly, with the loss of George, the business plans for the tavern and the "10-Pin Alley," never came to fruition. During the summer, guests can instead tour the small, award-winning period garden that is cultivated outside.

       Makeshift hospital "bed" for wounded soldiers just steps away from the              Shriver's Saloon

A dream that never came true--The Shriver's Saloon

Next up: A visit to quaint Jim Thorpe, often referred to as the "Switzerland of Pennsylvania."