Viewing the Vast Collection of Works at the Philadelphia Museum of Art

A few week's ago my husband and I set aside two hours to visit the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Little did we know that we'd make it through half of the collection in that amount of time. Therefore, I recommend that you consider devoting about three to four hours to see everything. The good news is that the Museum features several cafes onsite where you can take a break, grab a bite and give your feet a rest.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art was founded in 1876 and developed from collections exhibited in 1876 at the Centennial Exhibition in Fairmount Park. The building, constructed of Minnesota Dolomite and modeled after ancient Greek temples, opened its doors in 1928. 

Each year, the museum attracts approximately 800,000 visitors, with their website receiving 10 million page view annually. There are approximately 225,000 objects in the Museum, which features 15-20 special exhibitions each year.

For those who wish to reenact the Rocky scene by running up the 99 steps to get into the museum, I should note that the entrance is currently closed. I certainly didn't mind entering at the rear of the building, which is far less challenging to those of us who are out of shape.

Once inside, visitors will see the grand staircase and Saint-Gaudens' statue Diana. If it seems familiar, that might be because it was moved from New York's old Madison Square Garden.

Diana, by Augustus Saint-Gaudens, faces the grand staircase.

Two of the first paintings we encountered were influential in the art world...eventually. The oil on canvas pictured below was painted by Thomas Eakin. Titled, The Gross Clinic, it depicts Dr. Samuel Gross of Philadelphia operating on a patient, with Eakin sketching in the background. It was created specifically for Philadelphia's 1876 Centennial Exhibition, was rejected and instead appeared at a U.S. Army field hospital exhibit. The rejection prompted an art critic to comment in the Philadelphia Evening Telegraph: "There is nothing so fine in the American section of the Art Department of the Exhibition and it is a great pity that the squeamishness of the Selection Committee compelled the artist to find the place in the United States Hospital Building." Perhaps he was onto something. Today, the painting is recognized as one of the "greatest American paintings ever made."

The Gross Clinic, Thomas Eakins, 1875.

The Agnew Clinic, Thomas Eakins, 1889

Years later, Eakins was commissioned by medical students to commemorate the retirement of Dr. D. Hayes Agnew of Philadelphia. The young students then modeled for the artist in his studio. The painting portrays a mastectomy, but, at the insistence of Agnew, is less bloody than The Gross Clinic. Once again, it received a cool reception by the public until it appeared at the Chicago World's Columbian Exhibition in 1893, alongside his previous work. The medal Eakins received in Chicago recognizing his artistic achievements was a turning point in his career.

Other American collections include extensive holdings of Pennsylvania art and furniture, like the walnut desk below, designed by Philadelphia architect Frank Furness to look like one of his buildings.

Horace Howard Furness Desk, 1871

Cabinet made by American Giuseppe Ferrari (born in Italy), 1874-76.

Pennsylvania has been home to many German immigrants over the years, so it stands to reason that German Americans are well represented at the The Philadelphia Museum of Art. Below is a wardrobe (Kleidershrank) decorated with the owners name Georg Huber and the date it was made in sulfur inlay, a process in which molten lava is poured into carved channels.

Wardrobe, 1779, Lancaster County

Another gorgeous item I saw was this elaborately carved mahogany wine cooler seen below, made between 1825 and 1830, artist unknown.

Mahogany wine cooler, 1825-1830

Wharton Esherick, a Philadelphia sculptor who worked primarily in wood, is responsible for the handsome fireplace shown below.

Wharton Esherick, 1935-38, made in Paoli, Pennsylvania.

Bedstead, 1825-1835, possibly made in Philadelphia.

Those who know me are aware that some of my favorite pieces of furniture are fainting couches (I own three). Below are a few that I saw at the museum.

Sofa, 1762, England

Additional American pieces that caught my eye are the ones shown below. The first one, painted by Daniel Huntington in 1858 is titled: The Counterfeit Note and shows a shopkeeper scrutinizing a bill while a woman whispers in his ear and gestures towards a shady guy standing behind them.

The Counterfeit Note, 1858, Daniel Huntington

The second painting by John Frederick Peto is of an object rarely seen today: the letter rack. The representation of the upside down Lincoln photograph is said to suggest the country's lingering melancholy over the Civil War and the president's assassination. 

Old Time Letter Rack, 1894, John Frederick Peto

What's remarkable about the painting below by Sanford Gifford titled: A Coming Storm is that it was painted in the midst of the Civil War and was first owned by Shakespearean actor Edwin Booth, brother of Lincoln's assassin.

A Coming Storm, Sanford Gifford, 1863

Beautiful sculptures can be seen throughout the museum. Many of them have roots in Philadelphia, like this bronze created by William Rush. Originally carved in wood in 1809 for a fountain that stood in front of Philadelphia's first water system (where City Hall now stands), water spouted from the beak of the bittern, a bird that frequented the banks of the Schuylkill River. Officials, concerned about the deterioration of the original, ordered it cast in bronze in 1872 and moved it in 1829 to the new Fairmount Water Works on the Schuylkill River (next to the museum).

Allegory of the Schuylkill River (Water Nymph and Bittern), William Rush

The next piece is called "The Lost Pleiad," by Randolph Rogers, and is known as his last great mythological work. It represents Merope, who, in Greek legend, is one of seven sisters forming the Pleiades constellation. Having married a mortal, her powers weakened and she was lost from sight.

The Lost Pleiad, Randolph Rogers, 1874

The following is a sculpture done by Augustus Saint-Gaudens and memorializes Maria Gouverneur Mitchell, who died of diphtheria in 1898 in Philadelphia. Her parents commissioned the monument to represent her "singularly sweet and blameless life." It's named, The Angel of Purity.

The Angel of Purity, Augustus Saint-Gaudens, 1902

The museum also holds a collection of Presidential china used by presidents from George Washington to Ronald Reagan in the McNeil American Presidential China Gallery. My favorite collection was owned by Rutherford B. Hayes. You can see these unique pieces below.

China used during the Rutherford B. Hayes administration.

There are also walls of tapestries dating back to the 17th century, which are massive, depict historical scenes and are in surprisingly good condition.

Priceless Turkish rugs were also displayed on walls because of their size.  

Among the rugs was this beautiful Turkish cradle with mother-of-pearl inlay. It dates back to 1750 and was typically pressed into use when an Ottoman prince or princess was born.

Turkish Cradle, 1750

The European collections at the Philadelphia Museum of Art include medieval sculpture, stained glass, Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings and more. Among the artists are Monet, Renoir, Manet, Degas and Pissarro--pictures that I will be taking and sharing on this blog on a return visit.

The painting below stood out to me because it was painted by a female in 1639. Her name was Judith Leyster. The Dutch artist depicts two men drinking and a skeleton looming in the background. What's interesting about Judith is that prior to the 1800s, her paintings were misattributed to male artists until they discovered her initials with a star on her pieces. (Leyster is Dutch for lodestar.) 

The Last Drop, The Gay Cavalier, Judith Leyster, 1639.

The piece below was painted by Englishman Benjamin West titled: Agrippina Landing at Brundisium with the ashes of Germanicus. 

Agrippina Landing at Brundisium with the ashes of Germanicus, Benjamin West, 1770.

The Crucified Christ with the Virgin Mary, Saint John the Evangelist, and Angels Holding the Instruments of Passion, Painted Oak, Belgium, 1460-1490.

The piece above, which appeared to be at least 20 feet tall, was made in Belgium and dates back to the 1400s. It is painted oak and originally stood over the entrance to the choir, or altar area of a church. 

Another huge religious piece is picture below and is hinged and painted on both sides. It depicts scenes from Jesus' life and the events of his final days on earth. Altarpieces like this one were produced by Antwerp craftsmen for the broad European market. The picture doesn't do it justice. 

I'll wrap things up with a few shots from the Chinese Gallery, an ongoing exhibit that spans 4,000 years. 

Guanyin Budhisattva of Compassion, Qiao Bin 1482-1507

The glazed stoneware above was created during the Ming Dynasty and depicts Guanyin above a serpentine dragon and mythical feline. Ink inscriptions on the side point to a Buddhist Temple in the Shanxi Province.

Seated Luohan, wood, 1500s to early 1600s.

The work above, titled, Seated Luohan, is wooden and is estimated to date from the 1500s to the early 1600s. Luohans are enlightened monks who are disciples of Buddha. These sculptures were placed in Buddhist halls in groups of 16 or 18 lining the walls on either sides.

That's about it for my current visit. I'll be returning to write another blog in the spring to cover the other half of the museum we missed touring due to time. Hopefully this whets your appetite enough to consider visiting yourself.

In the meantime, you can learn more about the Philadelphia Museum of Art, its collection, hours, entrance prices and more by visiting the website at https://www.philamuseum.org/.

History, Art and More in Scenic Alexandria, Virginia

Alexandria Virginia, located along the scenic Potomac River, is a great place to visit and people have been taking notice. The area has earned accolades from people like you and me who voted in the Conde Nast Travelers' Readers Choice Awards, naming it one of the Top 5 Best Small Cities in the USA for three years in a row now. 

Known for its rich history, walkability, top-flight restaurants, attractive architecture and flourishing arts scene, it's a place where many escape for an educational and enjoyable getaway.

My recent trip to the region was short--we stayed only two nights, but managed to see quite a bit while we were there, so this itinerary is perfect for a long weekend. If you have more time to experience the region, there's so much more to see and do.

Strolling through Our First President's Abode

George Washington's father Augustine built part of this house in 1734.

Augustine Washington, who was a leading planter and justice of the county court in the Mount Vernon area south of Alexandria, VA, built a one-and-a-half story house there in 1734. His son George began leasing it in 1754 and started executing his dramatic vision of what the place could be. Over the years, George added a story, along with north-and-south wings, a cupola and piazza, expanded the property to 8,000 acres and created four gardens on the estate. He inherited the property in 1761 and continued work on it for approximately 50 years. At approximately 11,000 square feet, with 21 rooms, the mansion is 10 times the size of the average home in colonial Virginia.

When guests arrive at the estate, they will check in at the Ford Orientation Center, to avail themselves of resources like maps, audio tours and other items to help them plan their visit. 

They will also see a miniature model of the mansion itself and a beautiful stained-glass mural highlighting five key moments in George Washington's life.

Mural located at the Ford Orientation Center features five highlights of Washington's life.

Guests will take a path leading from the orientation center to the mansion where they will wait for a guide to take them on a tour which lasts about a half hour. 

The first step on our tour inside Mount Vernon was the "New Room," which was the last addition to the mansion and served as a receiving area for visitors.

The "New Room," served as a receiving area for visitors.

The "Old Chamber"

Next we saw the "Old Chamber" where visitors slept, and the dining room which is painted in a striking bright green and was described by Washington as "grateful to the eye." 

George Washington's dining room, which is part of the original house.

George Washington liked the front parlor best.

The front parlor was considered by Washington to be the "best place in the house." Here the family gathered to read and play games. On rainy and cold days tea and coffee were served here.

The "Yellow Room," which features a fireplace and a window in the east wall.

Visitors are led up the stairs via a beautiful walnut staircase to view various bedrooms, like the one pictured above called the "Yellow Room," which features a corner fireplace and a window in the east wall. 

The bedroom pictured below, known as the "Chintz Room" was considered the finest of the six bedchambers. During that era, the public had a fascination with eastern culture and the furnishings reflect that.

The finest of the six primary bedchambers.

Guests will also be guided through the place where George Washington retreated from the public eye. This was his private area and no one was permitted in the room without his express permission. Could he have tired of being "on" all the time? He would wake up between 4 and 5 a.m. every day and retreat to his study via stairs that led from his bedchamber. Early to bed and early to rise, as his friend Benjamin Franklin said. It was here that he bathed, dressed and kept his clothes. He also wrote diary entries and managed his estate in the study.  A curious artifact is the item attached to the rocking chair, which is an early fan of sorts.

George Washington's man cave.

The final two stops on the mansion tour include the outdoor kitchen and the piazza, which overlooks the Potomac. Guests are invited to sit a spell and experience the same breezes that the Washingtons enjoyed while living there. 

The outdoor kitchen. 

The view from the piazza.

Mt. Vernon Outbuildings

Guests are invited to visit the various outbuildings that area also located on the property, like this "Clerk's Quarters." After Washington retired from the presidency, he hired a man named Albin Rawlins to provide clerical services. Rawlins, a bachelor, was said to find this space sufficient enough for his needs. I guess he preferred to remain a bachelor...

Also seen on the grounds is the smokehouse, the kitchen garden and the stables.

Tombs on the Property

When Washington died in 1799, he was interred in an old tomb that wasn't in the best shape. Being aware of this, he stipulated in his will that he and his family would later be interred in a tomb that would be built after his death. It took awhile, but eventually the new tomb was built in 1831 and is located south of the fruit garden. 

The old vault where Washington was initially interred.

Today's vault is much improved and a guide stands by to answer any questions. 

The "new tomb" where Washington rests today.

When visitors complete their tour, they take a path which leads to a small food court and a gift shop, which features lovely items, like home decor, giftware and more. 

A gift shop awaits at the end of the Mt. Vernon tour.

Also located on the way out is a restaurant, for those who feel like dining somewhere a little fancier than the food court. We didn't eat there, but I did manage to sneak in and snap a pic.

The Mount Vernon Inn Restaurant is located right next door.

A Visit to the Gadsby Tavern

A private dining area in Gadsby's Tavern Museum

In keeping with the history theme, we continued on to Gadsby's Tavern Museum in Old Town Alexandria, where old-time hospitality comes in to view.

The great Gadsby.

The site is comprised of two buildings, a 1785 tavern and the 1792 City Hotel. Named for John Gadsby, who leased and operated the buildings from 1796 until 1808, the tavern and hotel played a large part in the political and social life in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Presidents who visited were John Adams, James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe and George Washington, who wrote in his diary that he ate there in 1786. This particular establishment catered to upper and middle class white men, who used the tavern as a place to build their political and economic influence in Alexandria.

White tablecloths, which, at the time, took skill and experience to clean, were a symbol of refinement. Printed menus didn't exist back then, but guests would given a choice of food that was in season, or preserved. 

Alcohol was part of daily life as a substitute for water, which was associated with causing illness. Cider and beer were cheap and easy to make and cocktails, like punch, toddies, flips and grogs were also served, along with coffee and tea.

The inventory at Gadsby's Tavern in 1802 included the following: 43 beds, 186 pieces of china, 50 dish covers, 14 sleeping rooms, 20 looking glasses and 36 silver tea spoons.

The ballroom at the museum.

Two rooms on site.

My husband and I had the opportunity to grab a lunch at the Tavern and the food was not only reasonably priced for the area, but also delicious.

The tavern, which is in operation today. I recommend the meatloaf.

Art that's "Da Bomb"

The Torpedo Factory is located along the Potomac Riverfront.

Located along Alexandria's scenic Potomac Riverfront is an old munitions plant that found a new purpose beginning in 1974, when it was transformed into the Torpedo Factory Art Center, which touts itself as home to the nation's largest collection of working artists' open studios under one roof (more than 165).

Admission is free and guests can wander the three-story building at their leisure and perhaps purchase a few pieces to take home. Often the artists are on site to answer questions and offer the curious insight into their inspiration. 

Art at the Athenaeum

The Athenaeum was once the Bank of the Old Dominion.

Another art venue located in Old Town Alexandria is The Athenaeum. Housed in a Greek Revival building that belonged to William Fairfax and was constructed between 1851 and 1852, it served as the office of the Bank of the Old Dominion, where Robert E. Lee had an account. The bank operated on the site until the Civil War when Alexandria was occupied by the Union forces and the building became the home of the U.S. Commissary Quartermaster. 

Today it is owned by the Northern Virginia Fine arts Association and is used primarily for exhibitions. When we visited, Robert Schultz's "Memorial Leaves" exhibit was there, memorializing Civil War combatants and those who mourned them, using leaves that grew from the ground that was once soaked by the blood of soldiers.

Alexandria isn't only about art and history--the shopping is on point, with blocks and blocks of shops lining the central thoroughfare on King street. Restaurants are also plentiful, with something for everyone. One in particular that we enjoyed was a French bistro called Bastille, which offered delicious food and stellar service. 

Bastille Brasserie and Bar 

I'm also pleased to say that people seem to be out and about again, so make sure you call ahead to make reservations.

These few suggestions just scratch the surface when it comes to enjoying everything Alexandria has to offer and one can spend days there exploring and enjoying.