History Unfolds with Mercersburg Walking Tour

Mercersburg, in Franklin County, is located 72 miles southwest of Harrisburg, which is about an hour and a half away from where I live, so, for a change of scenery, my husband and I decided to explore the area, which, according to the last census, is home to less than 2,000 people.

Thanks to the The Franklin County Tourism Board, I was able to take a self-guided walking tour and learn more about the houses that dot the town. Here I share photos that I took, along with a brief explanation of the structures provided by the Tourism Board. In some instances, I was able to find additional information on these old places and am including links to relevant articles I discovered at Newspapers.com.

The first stop on the tour is the McKinstry House named for William McKinstry, a native of Belfast, Ireland, who came to Mercersburg around 1796. McKinstry bought a general store from James Buchannan, Sr. and was also responsible for publishing the town's first newspaper, The Visitar, which was the forerunner of The Mercersburg Journal. His residence and general store (pictured below) was built in 1910. McKinstry represented Franklin County in the Legislature from 1838 until 1840. Fun Fact: Fancy graffiti leading to the attic reads, "Vote for Henry Clay of Tennessee."

The McKinstry House can be seen at 5 N. Main Street.

The second stop on the tour is a home built in 1984 by Judge James Carson, friend of James Buchanan. The brick building replaced two log cabins and the "eyebrow windows" in the attic are typical of the Greek Revival style. This house is also known for having the first bake oven in town.

When I delved into the archives at Newspapers.com and searched Judge James Carson, I ran into this interesting clip. https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80502708/

This brick building, built by Judge James Carson, is found at 11 N. Main.

The next step on the tour is the Buchanan Hotel, built in 1796 by James Buchanan, Sr. It was where the future president James Buchanan spent his childhood. It was purchased by James O. Carson and later bought by the McAfee brothers who enlarged it and converted it to a hotel. In 1909, it was sold to C.W. McLaughlin, who named it Hotel Mercer. I uncovered an article written in the Chambersburg Public Opinion in 1932, which announced the 25th anniversary of the business, stating that the hotel opened in 1909 with 300 guests, all of whom were offered a free turkey dinner. You can learn more about the guests of the hotel, along with an interesting tidbit about 185 "intemperate drinkers" who were on the list of those who were forbidden alcohol on the premises. https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80503951/

C.W. McLaughlin's son later named it the James Buchanan Hotel. 

The Buchanan Hotel is located at 17 N. Main St.

The next step on the tour is The Creigh House, named for Thomas Creigh, D.O., who was the fourth Presbyterian minister in Mercersburg and member of the Board of Regents of Marshall College and founder of Wilson College in Chambersburg. It was built in 1792, has nine fireplaces and initially served as a tavern, afterwards serving as a "center for fashion and dancing." I thought it rather peculiar to name a house given to drinking and dancing after a religious man, but I couldn't seem to find any additional information in the archives of various local papers.

The Creigh House at 39 N. Main is named after Thomas Creigh, D.O.

Next on the tour is the home of William Smith, who first laid out the town. He left directions at his death that a "neat and commodious house of middling size" be erected for his wife and daughter Sarah. You can read a little more about William Smith in this small history of the town written in 1985.

https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80506012/

This lovely house at 52 N. Main was built for William Smith's wife and daughter.

Up next is a dwelling at 30 N. Main, which was once two houses, one of which was occupied by a hatter. Both were purchased by William Smith, who combined the two as a single residence. The brochure describes the first floor as having a "borning room," which had me stumped. I soon learned that "borning rooms" were reserved for births and were often adjacent to the kitchen for warmth. This rather humble looking house features ornate woodwork adorning the fireplaces and stained glass throughout the first story.

This house at 30 N. Main was once two houses.

The stone house below was built in 1786 and enlarged in 1830 by Joseph Cowan, who operated a carpenter's shop in the backyard, with his stepson Cephus Huston. This is now a summer kitchen. Also on the property is a smokehouse, a horse barn, an outhouse and a well. The basement served as Mercersburg Savings Fund in the 1850's.

This stately house at 26 N. Main was home to the Mercersburg Saving's Fund in the 1850's.

The brick house below was built in the late 1700's, with eight rooms, eight fireplaces and a facade that features keystones above the lintels. At the rear of the property is a horse and cow barn with German siding and a stone foundation, along with a smokehouse.  The house next door shares many of the same attributes.

This structure is located at 22-24 N. Main Street

The next house below belonged to Robert Parker, who, after serving as a Captain Lieutenant in the Second Continental Artillary, was appointed Collector of Excise for Franklin County. He went on to marry William Smith's daughter Sarah. Remember him? Smith was the man who laid out the town. The structure, which now serves as the Fendrick Library was built of native limestone in 1788. The library takes its name from Mrs. Fendrick a local historian and geneologist born in 1862. Leading to the passageway over the alley is a wide plank door with original strap hinges. I can't quite understand what this architectural detail is for, so if someone out there has an idea, feel free to let me know. 

The Fendrick Library is located at 16 N. Main.

Across the street from James Buchanan's boyhood home is the Lane House, which features Georgian architecture. The house was built in 1828 by Thomas Lane, but occupied by Elliott Lane, who married Jane Buchanan, the sister of James Buchanan. Elliott and Jane were the parents of Harriett, who served as hostess at the White House during her uncle's  presidency. (You can read about Harriett in this clipping from the Baltimore Sun, dated December 9, 1906). https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80508958/the-baltimore-sun/

The house features hand-carved woodwork and a hallway with a curved ceiling that runs from the front, to the rear and is equipped with 10 fireplace mantels, all with a different design.

The Lane House is located at 14 N. Main.

I crossed the square to end up at the 15th house on the tour called "The Mansion House." Built around 1790, this house was used by Marshall College from 1840-1945. Afterwards, it was operated by Colonel Murphy and according to the Franklin County tourism brochure, it was often crowded with people from near and far. I wondered why and came across this old article published in 1911. Apparently farm auctions were held there. https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80509475/ Today it appears to be operating as a bar that may or may not have made it through the ravages of COVID. It's listed as "temporarily closed."

The Mansion House is located at 2-6 S. Main.

We proceeded down S. Market to view the houses across the street, so the tour numbers will no longer be in sequence, but will follow the map provided on the brochure.

This house below is number 30 on the tour and was purchased in 1908 by the Board of Directors of the First National Bank. According to the brochure, the bank opened for business on February 1, 1909, with total assets of $22,232.84, two full-time workers and a night watchman who earned 75 cents a night. It's know as the brownstone building.

The Brownstone Building located at 13 S. Main St.

Not far from the square, we found this statue in homage to Mercersburg's native son and 15th President of the United States, James Buchanan.

James Buchanan, a Mercersburg native, was elected 15th president of the United States.

The stone building, pictured below, dates back to the late 1700's. The shed-roof barn located at the rear of the building was once a livery stable. After the onset of automobiles, it housed the town taxi. The log building to the right has been home to many businesses.

This stone residence dates back to the late 1700's and is located at 35 S. Main.

The house below was built in the Colonial Revival style and was made of California brick. Interesting features include three tile fireplaces: one maroon, one green and one yellow. Built in 1906, it has three pocket doors, oak woodwork and arched cathedral windows on the south side. 

This house, built in the Colonial Revival style is located at 35 S. Main St.

The attractive stone house below is known as Mercersburg's first full-sized stone house. It was built in in 1780 by Dr. William McGaw, a distinguished soldier and surgeon in the Revolutionary War. After the war, he settled in Mercersburg and practiced medicine for 40 years. The house touts walls that are a feet thick and 10 fireplaces, all in working condition.

The first full-sized stone house was built in Mercersburg in 1780 and is located at 43 S. Main St.

The next house, a two-story log home, is now encased with brick and was built around 1787. Prior to 1810, the house had no stairway, the purpose of which was to evade unfriendly Indians. Those interested in reaching the second floor did so by ladders. The house shares a common wall with the stone house next door.

This residence was initially a log house with no stairway prior to 1810. It's located at 49 S. Main St.

The following house was build in the late 1700's. In the 1800's, a man by the name of Captain Dick enlarged it and established a butcher shop with the slaughterhouse at the rear of the lot. When I tried to find more about the old butcher shop, I came up with nothing, other than this interesting cradling competition described in the Mercersburg Journal in 1903. https://www.newspapers.com/clip/80557351/

A butcher shop operated at the rear of the lot at 57 S. Main St.

Next up is a structure that was built between 1820 and 1825 by Harry Spangler, who rented it out before selling it to Frederick Waidlich, who enlarged it. Later, when the sidewalk was being rebuilt, what was known as the "Waidlich well," was discovered and determined to be 40-50-foot deep. This was one of five or six wells that supplied the town with water prior to the installation of the water system in 1912.

A well was discovered at 101 Main Street when the sidewalks were being replaced.

The Borough Hall below was built in just four months in this Colonial Revival style. In the end it cost $4,308.39. In 1909, Council authorized George W. Seylor, for the sum of $375, to erect a wood tower to encase a town clock.

The Borough Hall is located at 113 S. Main St.

The structure below serves as the Mercersburg Post Office and is constructed of locally quarried limestone, with granite steps. At the dedication in 1937, Postmaster General James A. Farley was the principal speaker.

The Mercersburg Post Office is located at 128 S. Main St.

The mansion below contains five commodious porches and five dormer windows in the attic. The house is known as "Rosemont" and stands on the same foundation as the former Presbyterian church. Built by William Smith in 1910, the four-bedroom mansion is in the Classical Revival Style.

Rosemont is located at South Main St. at Linden Ave.

A marker honors Hugh Mercer, for whom the town is named.

Hugh Mercer is recognized with a marker as a Scot, who came to the area in 1749, established a local medical practice and served with distinction as a Colonel of the Pennsylvania Militia during the French and Indian War.

As we returned to our car, we saw this cute log cabin on the square. The structure pictured in the brochure, which was the home of the grandparents of U.S. President William Henry Harrison, burned down and this cabin was found under the charred ruins. It now operates as a consignment shop.

A consignment shop now operates at 5 S. Main St.

There are more steps along this tour, for a total of 35 stops, making it an interesting and insightful walking tour for history buffs. Thanks to the Franklin County Tourism Board for the handy brochure which provided the many details describing the stops along the way. 

Plenty to Do and See in Reading, Pa

The historic Reading Pagoda was completed in 1908 and was intended to be a luxury resort atop Mt. Penn, but due to a bank foreclosure and denial of a liquor license, it never was opened.

I’m sure I’m not alone in looking forward to traveling this summer, but doesn’t it figure that once things begin to return to a semblance of normal, we end up with higher gas prices? If the price of gas has you down, you may want to consider exploring closer to home. I travel quite a bit and still marvel at what I have yet to experience in our area. A recent trip to Berk’s county took me to a Hawk Sanctuary, a renovated train-station turned restaurant, a Barn Star Art Tour, a train trip on a renovated railroad, a museum, an art collective and a cave that has been a tourist destination for 145 years. These destinations were all new to me and I was able to see them all on one tank of gas.

Hitting the Open Road

If you’re not quite up to mingling with crowds yet, you can take a scenic ride through rural Berks county on a self-guided Barn Star Art Tour, make a stop at Crystal Cave and continue on to Hawk Mountain.

Barn stars, otherwise known as “hex signs,” are a type of Pennsylvania Dutch Folk Art. According to Patrick Donmoyer, Director of the Pennsylvania German Cultural Heritage Center at Kutztown University, the designs are first and foremost artistic, but they tell of the culture’s interest in the heavens and the cosmos. One of the artists featured on the tour is Milton Hill, who began painting at the age of 14 under the tutelage of his father and grandfather. “He was extremely elaborate and created designs that were previously less complex,” said Donmoyer. Hill is just one of many artists whose work can see along the trail. According to Donmoyer, the tour traverses about 40 miles and can be completed in about an hour and 15 minutes.

The Sunday Barn in Virginville features artwork by Milton Hill.

Three miles into the tour, guests will arrive at Crystal Cave, which attracts thousands of visitors every year. A 55-minute guided tour begins with an educational film called, “Inside the Earth. Afterwards, a tour guide leads guests are through the cave, pointing out fascinating rock formations comprised of stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone and more. One interesting fact pointed out by the guide: A wedding reception once took place there. I researched this later and a photo of the bride and groom can be found on the internet. Even more implausible is that a piano was somehow lugged there. After climbing several dozen steps and getting plenty winded while making my way to the cave, I wonder how they managed.

View of outbuildings from atop the hill at Crystal Cave

Interior rooms at Crystal Cave

Crystal Cave giftshop

A small detour along the Barn Star Art Tour will take visitors to Hawk Sanctuary in Kempton, which features a visitor’s center, eight miles of trails and beautiful vistas.  From August 15 through December 15, staff and volunteers are stationed at lookouts to help visitors spot hawks, eagles, falcons and vultures. Annual counts for this four-month period average 18,000 raptors.

I wish I would have seen more hawks when I visited, but the vistas were beautiful

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Activities for Art Lovers

Seward Johnson's "Calling Girl"

The Reading Public Museum features science, history and art displays, a planetarium with children and adult programming and a 25-acre arboretum open daily from sunrise, to sunset. The fine art collection includes 700 oil paintings by American and foreign artists. Rodin, Picasso, Monet and Degas are among their collection, as are contemporary artists like Warhol, Chihuly and native son Keith Haring.

Elton John with Billy Jean King

Outfit worn by Rosie Casals on the Virginia Slim circuit, 1975

Special exhibits rotate seasonally. When I visited, women’s tennis fashion was the focus and represented by the Seward Johnson statue greeting guests at the entrance. After seeing many Seward Johnson works at the Gardens for Sculpture in New Jersey, I learned that it’s easy to spot them. There’s also one (of Abe Lincoln) on the square in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania.

Large girl reading, by Henri Matisse, 1923

What I also found interesting is that the Neag Planetarium is featuring Floyd Final Fridays for Pink Floyd fans like myself, with shows occurring at 8, 9 and 10 on various Fridays throughout September. That would have been something I would have enjoyed had I known about it prior to my visit. Children’s programming is also featured throughout the week. Check their website for information and times.

The Goggleworks Center for the Arts gets its name from a goggle factory that operated at the site from 1871-2002.  Today it is a 145,000 square foot community art and cultural center that offers art classes in various mediums, from glass, to metals, paint, ceramics and more. A community art room enables both amateur and professionals to work side by side, ostensibly to learn from each other. While I was there, I tried my hand at making a glass flower in their glass blowing area, with a little help from the staff.

Flower making in the glass shop.

Amateurs and professionals work side by side at Goggleworks.

Steampunk artwork by Julio Cesar Cepeda Duque

Some of my favorites by David Bogus--these are ceramic suitcases.

More from David Bogus

A separate room tells the story of Wilson Goggles, which used to be produced onsite.

Visitors are welcome to tour the facility free of charge and view the work of the many talented artists who create there. Also onsite at the Center is the 130-seat Albert and Eunice Boscov Film Theatre, which shows arthouse and international films.

The Albert and Eunice Boscov Film Theatre

Good Eats

Folino's retail store and tasting room.

Cucina Cafe

A selection of wines we chose to bring home with  us.

Cucina Cafe

Antipasto salad.

Folino Estate Vineyard, Winery and Restaurant near Kutztown is run by a family who has 40 years of experience in the restaurant industry. Guests can taste award-winning wines in their tasting room from Wednesday through Sunday, then walk over to the Cucina Café located in the same building for pizza, pasta, salads and more. If you love your lasagna extra cheesy, you can’t go wrong ordering it here.

For a bit of nostalgia, grab a bite at Jimmie Kramer’s Peanut Bar and Restaurant in downtown Reading, where little has changed over the decades, not least of which is the outdoor sign with the smiley peanut man wearing pants, bowtie and suspenders overlooking cursive lettering spelling out Jimmie Kramer’s name. Jimmie Kramer’s dates back to 1933 and lays claim to being one of the first restaurants to serve peanuts and invite guests to throw the shells on the floor. The story has it that Jimmie always wanted to give his guest a little something extra, a lagniappe, of sorts, so when he ran out of pretzels, he asked an employee to run across the street to a peanut roaster and a trend was created.  Menu items include steaks, seafood, wings and other American fare.

Jimmie Kramer's Peanut Bar dates back to 1933.

To dine in a unique and beautiful setting, there’s the Saucony Creek Craft Brewery + Pub located in the restored Reading Railroad Franklin Street Station, which was built in the 1930s in the Renaissance Revival Architectural style. Its soaring windows, ornate details and terrazzo floors make it something special to see and if a train passes by, expect all the diners to stand up and clap; it’s a tradition.

Saucony Creek Craft Brewery + Pub operates in a repurposed train station.

Take a Ride on The Coalbrookdale Railroad

Continuing with the railroad theme is the tourist destination located in Boyertown that takes visitors on a scenic, roundtrip ride from Boyertown, to Pottstown. The railroad boasts some of the most beautiful railcars you’ll ever see, with stained-glass windows and a wealth of little details designed to give the passenger a feeling of opulence.

White tablecloth service aboard the Coalbrookdale Railroad.

Guest Relations Manager Nathan Labb said that non-profit rescued some of the cars from Canada and the project started out with one diesel, a coach and a caboose. Today there are six cars in service, three on the property and three awaiting restoration. According to Labb, the cars underwent a restoration taking between 1,000 and 2,000 man-hours to complete. “It took us about three years to get everything running and this is our seventh year of tourist operations,” said Labb, adding that restorations are covered by ticket sales, private donations and state and federal grants. A particularly busy time for the railroad is on Mother’s Day when families take mom out to eat brunch and dinner aboard comfortable surroundings made even more special by white tablecloths and fresh flowers.

The tour presentation highlights the importance of the early iron works which flank the railroad tracks for nearly the entire distance of the line. 

Accommodations

My husband and I stayed at the Reading Doubletree by Hilton, which is located near the Santander Arena, a half mile from Goggleworks and two miles from the famous Reading Pagoda, (completed in 1908 and intended to be a luxury hotel/restaurant for a resort that never came to fruition).

We enjoyed our stay there and can highly recommend the hotel. Not only was the manager a presence (he greeted us within a few minutes after we checked in), but we also saw him meeting with his staff often to ask what they had done that day to make guests comfortable.  Another service, of which we took advantage, was the shuttle to various places, like Jimmie’s and Saucony Creek.

The above suggestions should keep the most ambitious traveler busy for a while, or at least for a long weekend. To learn more about what to see and do in the Reading area, visit Pennsylvania’s Americana Region website at https://visitpaamericana.com/.