Touring Maryland's Scenic Eastern Shore

Fall is a fantastic time to visit the picturesque area of Talbot County Maryland and the small towns of Easton, Oxford and St. Michaels are especially pleasant this time of year when temperatures are tolerable and crowds are minimal.

Exploring Historic Downtown Easton

Downtown Easton

The Talbot County seat of Easton, Maryland is a quaint, small town with a population of just under 16,000. Visitors who prefer to be centrally located may consider staying at the Tidewater Inn on Dover Street. Located in the historic district, the charming, 95-room inn, which dates back to 1949, is within walking distance of boutique shops offering everything from gifts, to jewelry, antiques and apparel.

The Tidewater Inn

Located across the street from the Tidewater is the historic Avalon Theatre. Built in 1921 and touted as the “Showplace of the Eastern Shore,” the renovated, art-deco style venue continues to draw crowds from across the region.  Guests of the Tidewater can simply walk across the street to enjoy a show. Today the theater serves the community as a performing arts center, often featuring nationally renowned acts.

The Avalon Theatre

Easton appeals to art lovers as well, with plenty of galleries located within walking distance of the Inn. The Academy Art Museum, located at 106 South Street, attracts nearly 50,000 visitors annually.

The Academy Art Museum

The interior of the Academy Art Museum.

The Tidewater Inn's Hunters' Tavern, serves dishes like lamb loin, duck, scallops, filet mignon and more, with additional dining establishments within walking distance of the hotel. The Bartlett Pear Inn, which opened in 2009 and serves French-inspired, farm-to-table cuisine, continues to gain accolades from foodies from around the region. In 2014, the husband-and-wife team ranked #25 in the list of “100 Very Best Restaurants” according to the Washingtonian. I recently learned that the historic inn, built in 1790, is on the market for $1.295 million. You can learn more about 10,251-square foot property and the cost to acquire it here. 

A soft-shell crab salad at the Bartlett Pear.

Visit One of the Oldest Towns in America

The nearby town of Oxford, with a population of less than 1,000, gives off a decidedly laid-back vibe. A stroll down the tree-lined streets of the waterfront village is especially lovely this time of year as the fall foliage unfolds in all its splendid glory and early risers can observe watermen unloading the day's catch.

Downtown Oxford.

Tourists seldom leave the area without sampling the ice cream available at the Scottish Highland Creamery, which boasts nearly 600 flavors. Favorites like tiramisu, birthday cake and double Belgian Chocolate, receive rave reviews from locals and visitors alike.

Not far from the Creamery is The Robert Morris Inn, known as the oldest full-service inn in the United States. Known as one of the crown jewels of Oxford, the Inn was built in 1710 and named after the father of the financier of the American Revolution. Setting foot inside is like stepping back in time. For an authentic, historic experience, rent one of the heritage colonial rooms, which are original to the main house and offer scenic views overlooking the water.

The tavern, with its exposed brick walls and slate floors, is an ideal place for a casual repast. Those who prefer to dine al fresco can enjoy a bite on the patio. A formal dining room is also available for those who choose to enjoy their meals in an elegant, upscale atmosphere.

The Robert Morris Inn.

One of the more popular items at the Robert Morris Inn is the jumbo lump crab cake. Baltimore Style magazine reports that “Chef Mark Salter’s crab cakes are just as good as the ones James Michener touted when he supped here many moons ago.”

Ride a Ferry to St. Michaels
Step outside the Robert Morris Inn and onto a historic ferry, which will escort you to St. Michaels. Established in 1683, the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry is known as America’s oldest privately owned ferry. The passenger boat runs seven days a week from April through October and on weekends through mid-November.

The Open Boatshop at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

One of the first guest stops is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. The 90-minute, guided tour educates visitors on the history and culture of the Chesapeake Bay. Many tourists climb the steps of the 1879 Hooper Strait Lighthouse to experience the best view in the area.

Also located on the property is a boat shed, which was once a cannery warehouse used by the St. Michaels Packing Company. Today visitors walk through the structure to inspect boats that were once used for fishing, crabbing and oystering.

For accommodations in St. Michaels, look no further than the 78-room Perry Cabin Inn. Don’t let the rustic name fool you. If your idea of roughing it is choosing between a couple’s massage, or an 80-minute pumpkin peel facial, the Inn at Perry Cabin is the right choice for you. The resort offers an array of spa treatments, along with complimentary bike and kayaks to pedal, or row, your way around the region. Staff serves daily afternoon tea and the waterfront property offers beautiful views of the Miles River.

The Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond

A room at the Inn at Perry Cabin.

The front lawn at the Inn at Perry Cabin.

These are but a few tips that will take you on an easy drive through three areas of Talbot County where you can indulge in a laid-back, unhurried, luxurious trip. Talbot County offers so much more than I’ve described here, so for help in planning your own perfect, long weekend, visit their website at www.tourtalbot.org

Butterflies and Blooms at Hershey Gardens

When you think of the quaint town of Hershey, chocolate and amusement park rides likely come to mind, but what you may not know is that Hershey is also home to a 23-acre botanical display garden which touts 3,500 rose bushes, 11 themed gardens, including a  Children's Garden, and the newest installation, The Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory, which features a Butterfly Atrium that is enjoyed by visitors year round.

The Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory at Hershey Gardens opened in July, 2016.

The idea, of course, sprang from the mind of no other than Milton S. Hershey himself, who, when approached to sponsor a national rosarium in Washington, D.C., decided instead to bring the idea home to his local community.

Hershey's intent to create a "nice garden of roses,' began simply enough, with 3.5 acres opening to the public in 1937. In typical Hershey fashion however, the project expanded exponentially over the years.

A fountain flows just beyond the Conservatory.

Hershey Gardens features an impressive display of 3,500 roses comprised of 175 different varieties.

One wonders if Hershey's employees might have placed bets on whether his humble ideas would always end up expanding into projects that would dwarf the initial plans.

Today the Gardens span 23-acres, with 3,500 roses of 175 varieties stealing the show. Eleven additional themed gardens add to the impressive and colorful array. Among them are an herb garden, a nut grove featuring dozens of trees, an ornamental grass garden, a Japanese Garden, a children's garden and  a perennial garden featuring flowers that bloom according to the season, from tulips and daffodils in the spring, to sunflowers and daisies in the summer, to chrysanthemums in the fall.

I felt like returning with a book; I wonder if that's permitted. 

A butterfly bench for visitors to rest in between touring.

A group of  bright, cheery sunflowers.

Daisies and coneflowers bloom in the summer.

The Butterfly Atrium

One of the newest and most popular features of the Hershey Gardens is the Butterfly Atrium where guests can marvel at hundreds of the winged creatures and watch them feed on the fruit provided at various stations around the room.

The Welcome Pavilion is one of the first things visitors will see upon entering the Hershey Gardens. This is the Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory where the Butterfly Atrium is located.

The Butterfly Atrium features hundreds of tropical and North American butterflies.

Butterflies feast on ripe fruit.

The Butterfly Atrium is one of only 25 year-round tropical butterfly atriums in the United States and represents 200-300 species. It is kept at a constant temperature of approximately 80 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 percent humidity.

The Children's Garden
Children of all ages enjoy the 1.5-acre educational children's garden, which opened to the public in 2003. Lolly Tai, author of The Magic of Children's Gardens, describes it as "an excellent educational resource providing opportunities for hands-on learning, self-discovery and fun with water features, hideaways, creatures, surprises and whimsical features."

The entrance to the Children's Garden.

Misters shaped like Hershey's Kisses keep children cool and encourage play.

Scavenger hunts make education fun.

A dancing pig sculpture and dance chimes elicit smiles in the Hugs and Kisses Garden

If you're in town to visit Hershey Park, the Gardens are located nearby, making it easy to add both destinations to your itinerary. These are but a few highlights you'll experience during your visit. You can view additional information on prices, hours of operation and more by clicking on this link. 

Visiting the Wooded Wonderland of Mount Gretna

Summer is a perfect time to visit tranquil Mt. Gretna. The small Lebanon County borough attracts vacationers seeking a quaint, quiet, wooded respite from crowded city life. Those who are familiar with the area might be just a tad jealous of the lucky individuals who regularly sprawl out on hammocks with the latest novel on the oversized porches which are part and parcel of the Mt. Gretna Experience. The good news is that you, too, can have that same experience. In the past, I wasn't quite sure that any of the cottages were for rent, but this year I made it a point to do some research and discovered quite a few available through Air B&B, or Penn Realty. I do suggest booking a few weeks, if not months, in advance, to reserve the cottage you want at a price you can afford.

Below are a few pictures of a place we rented during a recent summer visit. Penn Realty provided us with nearly everything we needed, from place settings, to paper products and more to ensure that our stay would be a comfortable one.

A four-bedroom rental on Princeton.

The rear of the property.

The sprawling front porch.

Not quite unplugged, but tranquil nonetheless.

The spacious kitchen included everything to entertain.

The living room.

Roots in Chautauqua
It comes as a surprise to some that Mount Gretna was modeled after New York's Chautauqua, which was established in 1874 in New York State. The movement began as an outdoor educational experience for Sunday school teachers and grew in popularity until automobiles and movie theaters captured the public's attention.

When guests first visit Mt. Gretna, they'll see an imposing structure that seems a bit out of place in the little cottage community. The Hall of Philosophy, built in 1910, was inspired by Greek architecture and looms large as one enters the enclave. To this day, it serves as a center for learning where members of the community can gather together to hear lectures on religion, learn about arts and crafts, or take part in political discussions.

When we visited this summer, a group of ladies were enjoying a game of Mahjong on the front porch of the Hall of Philosophy.

Today there are only 19 remaining member communities of the Chautauqua Trail, which is based on the four pillars of Chautauqua: art, education, religion and recreation.

The Mount Gretna Historical Society
Visitors can learn more about the history of the area at the Mt. Gretna Historical Society located at 206 Pennsylvania Avenue. The two-story building contains relics of years past, including a deer from a carousel that once entertained guests who visited the area.

Historical society artifacts.

Woodland Shopping
No destination is complete, (at least in my opinion), without shopping opportunities. The Gretna Emporium, located in the heart of Mount Gretna along route 117, was once the Chautauqua's Literary and Scientific Circle building. Today guests can spend time browsing yard art and other items displayed on the front porch. Inside are a variety of books, toys and unique gift items.

Enjoying Time on the Water
Mount Gretna Lake and Beach is open every year from the last weekend in May through Labor Day. The family-owned entertainment hub is a favorite for those who enjoy frolicking on the water. Canoes, tubes and kayaks are all available for rent.
Teens, in particular, seem to enjoy lining up to take their turn on a huge swing that soars high into the sky and reaches out over the lake.
For those interested in making a day of it, a snack bar and shaded picnic grove are provided and a children's playground offers hours of fun for those who visit.

Mt. Gretna Lake & Beach

This is me in the front and Sue, otherwise known as Lucy and Ethel, when we started going off course. We made it back though.

Seeing a Show
Theater fans have not one, but two options in the Mt. Gretna area.  The Gretna Theatre, situated at the top of the hill at Carnegie and Pennsylvania Avenues, is known as one of the oldest summer theatres in the United States. Audiences have been entertained in this same location since 1927 by such notable figures as Charlton Heston, Bernadette Peters and Sally Struthers, to name just a few.

Mount Gretna Theatre sits up on a hill, not far from the Hall of Philosophy.

The interior of the Mount Gretna Theatre

The Timbers Restaurant and Dinner Theatre, located at 350 Timbers Road, is another venue that has been a favorite of theater fans for decades. Diners can choose from a buffet, or an ala carte meal before each performance. Owner Kathleen Roberts takes great care to hire top-notch talent, escorting her team to New York every February to audition first-class performers. She winnows down the field of talented actors to the very best and those who are talented enough to make the cut have the pleasure of performing at this beloved establishment. To see upcoming plays and times, visit their website here.

The Timbers has been a beloved family owned institution for decades.

Dining at Gretna
Guests can enjoy breakfast and lunch all year round at the homey Porch and Pantry, open Tuesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Morning favorites include grilled sticky buns, maple French toast coffee and pancakes that are big enough to satisfy even the largest appetites. During warmer weather guests can relax outside on the spacious front porch beneath the gentle breeze of ceiling fans.

Breakfast and lunch is available year round from Tuesday through Sunday at The Porch and Pantry.

Another dining option is the Mount Gretna Hideaway at 40 Boulevard Avenue. It's become a gathering place for locals and visitors alike and is known for it's casual atmosphere and its shaded outdoor deck. Menu items include burgers, salads, sandwiches and entrees ranging from pasta to steaks.

Another perennial favorite is the popular Jigger Shop, which has been a fixture in the community for a century. For many families, it's a tradition to visit there at least once during the summer. Open daily from noon to 10 p.m., the casual eatery serves soups, salads, sandwiches and ice cream. If you're an out-of-towner interested in trying a regional specialty, you might want to give the LCB, otherwise known as the Lebanon County Banquet, a try. Made with grilled sweet bologna crafted at the nearby Seltzer's bologna plant from a recipe that has been handed down through generations, it is a unique menu item that you won't find just anywhere.

Guests enjoy ice cream on the deck of The Jigger Shop.

The Jigger shop is best known for its frozen concoctions with choices ranging from Baked Alaska, to Gretna's Frozen Hot Chocolate, Pineapple Upside Down Cake, Apple Fritter Flambe and peach melba. One of the most popular items on the menu is the "Jigger," a specialty sundae that is made with French vanilla ice cream, a choice of chocolate or butterscotch topping, whipped marshmallow and a crunchy topping known as "jigger nuts."

One other notable eatery I must mention, located just outside Mt. Gretna, is The Divine Swine. My husband and I passed it by until this last visit. Little did we know what we were missing.  The stand alone building, located across the street from the Renaissance Faire , is a casual eatery that specializes in BBQ, offering everything from pulled pork sandwiches, to brisket, chicken and ribs and cajun sausage. We placed our orders at the front counter and took a seat at a cute, high-top table made from a beer keg sporting chicken feet.

Tables at The Divine Swine.

There we shared "The Divine," and indeed it was. The sampler, which was plenty for both of us,was piled high with pulled pork, brisket, and Cajun sausage and served with Texas toast and two sides--in our case mac and cheese and beans. We're still craving a repeat of that meal, but it's a bit out of the way. Perhaps next year.


Annual Home and Garden Tour

An example of some of the homes you'll see in Mt. Gretna

This home was on a tour stop a few years ago.

On the first Saturday in August, Gretna Music hosts the Tour of Homes and Gardens. Mt. Gretna Music brings chamber music, jazz and other musical genres to Central Pennsylvania and the organization has been going strong for decades now. The popular fundraiser gives guests a glimpse inside of about a dozen homes and several gardens. Ticket prices can be found on their website. The tour starts at the post office on Princeton Avenue and at the tent in front of the Mt. Gretna Playhouse.

The Annual Outdoor Art Show
Each year, on the third Saturday in August, art lovers visit from near and far for the Mt. Gretna Outdoor Art Show. The is year number 44 for the juried exhibition, which is comprised of hundreds of exhibitors who work in a variety of mediums. A Kids Art Show features children's art and activities for the up-and-coming little artist. A food tent, live music and strolling performers are all part of the experience that runs all weekend. To learn more, follow this link.

These are just a few suggestions on how to make the most of a trip to scenic Mount Gretna, a place where generations of families return year after year to socialize, embrace the serenity and soak in nature's beautiful surroundings.