There's More to Gettysburg Than Just the Battlefield

History buffs love visiting the Gettysburg battlefield to learn about the infamous and bloody three-day battle. Over the years, I've visited the area many times, even touring the battlefield via Segway, which in my opinion is the best way to do it. 

I've also taken ghost tours, which can be filled with historical tidbits and can be very interesting, as well.

However, my favorite thing to do is simply stroll around the downtown area, enjoying the little boutique shops, dining at the restaurants, taking part in tastings at the wineries and learning more about some of the structures identified by historical markers. 

A tasting at Reid's Winery Tasting Room and Cider House on Baltimore Street.

One of my favorite downtown buildings inspired me to reach out to author Brad Gottfried to learn more about the structure pictured below. Gottfried knows the Gettysburg area well, having written 17 books on the subject. He informed me that the structure was once a service and parking garage--which was quite a let down, being that it is so attractive. If you zoom in on the information underneath the arch, you'll see that it dates back to 1916. They sure knew how to park in style back then, I said to myself, wondering why modern-day parking garages needed to be so brutalist. These thoughts went through my head when I began researching and discovered through the 'Celebrate Gettysburg' facebook page that it was initially intended for a movie theater, until a hotel moved in nearby, necessitating the need for parking. That made more sense.

This beautiful building once served the community as a parking garage.

After I got over the notion that this beautiful building was used for parking, Gottfried took me on a tour where he offered details on other points of interest and I left knowing much more about the interesting and walkable downtown area.

Historical Houses

The Will's House

"Return Visit" is built to scale.

One of the most-oft photographs of downtown Gettysburg is the statue of Lincoln standing beside a tourist near the David Wills House, where he worked on his famous Gettysburg Address. Artist J. Seward Johnson, Jr., of Johnson & Johnson pharmaceutical fame, was responsible for creating the now-famous piece, which shows Lincoln pointing up at the room in which he stayed. I've always been rather fascinated with Seward Johnson's life-like sculptures. You can view more of them at the Grounds for Sculpture in New Jersey. Once you've seen a Seward Johnson piece, you'll recognize it immediately. (You can see more of Seward Johnson's work and read about the Grounds for Sculpture in a blog I wrote here). This statue that stands on the Gettysburg square is called "Return Visit."

The Will's House, for a long time, charged admission. Today it is free and contains six galleries and two rooms that have been restored to their 1863 appearance. 

The Farnsworth House

The Farnsworth House Inn not only serves as a Bed and Breakfast, but also as a place to stop and have a bite to eat after a day of touring. 

The Inn was named after Brigadier General Elon John Farnsworth of the Union Army, who died in battle along with 65 of his men after being ordered by Major General Hugh Judson Kilpatrick to lead an unsuccessful charge against Confederate positions south of the Devil’s Den area.

The back part of the house, now featuring Sweney’s Tavern, was built in 1808, while the front of the house was added in 1833. Banker John McFarland, who built the house, fell on hard times and sold it to the Sweney family, who owned it during the battle.

Furious fighting began almost immediately when the Confederates inhabited the house during the very first day of the war. Confederate sharpshooters positioned themselves at a tiny window in the attic, shooting towards Cemetery Hill while laying on their stomachs. In fact, the shot that killed Jenny Wade, the only civilian directly killed in the battle, was said to have come from that very window. More than 100 bullet holes now riddle the walls of the house.

The Shriver House

Another interesting house near downtown is the Shriver House Museum and one that is foremost in my mind because of how I felt during a tour of the place. As we gathered around a docent, I began to feel a debilitating pain my stomach as if someone was twisting my insides. This was followed by a bit of panic and sweating and I wrestled with interrupting the docent by telling her, or fleeing, but I stuck it out, not wanting to create a scene and the feeling passed within a few minutes.

I learned later that the house was used as a hospital during the war. Was I feeling the way one of those soldiers felt after being shot in the stomach? I guess I'll never know.

Tourists who want to learn how people lived in the period of time before, during and after the Civil War get a clearer picture after visiting the Shriver House.

In the attic is a sharpshooter's nest where two confederates died.

Sharpshooter's nest in the attic of the Shriver House.

The Majestic Theater

The Majestic Theater dates back to 1925.

Downtown Gettysburg is also home to the Majestic Theater, which dates back to 1925 and at the time was known as the largest vaudeville and silent movie theater in south-central Pennsylvania.

In the late 1950s, it wasn't unusual for patrons to take a seat, only to spot Mamie and Dwight Eisenhower in the audience. 

In 2005, the theater underwent restoration to bring it back to its original charm and today people visit to enjoy music acts, comedians and classic films.

Learn about History during a Virtual Reality Experience

The Gettysburg train station.

Located a few steps away from the Majestic Theater is one of the newer attractions operated by the Gettysburg Foundation. "Ticket to the Past," located at the Gettysburg train station, transports visitors back to 1863 when the structure served as a hospital, a supply station and a presidential arrival platform.

Bringing stories to life are: Cornelia Hancock, soldier caregiver and hospital heroine, Eli Blanchard, soldier, musician and amputation assistant and Basil Biggs, Gettysburg Resident and Facilitator for the Fallen (exhuming Union soldiers for reburial). Visitors will also witness a recreation of Lincoln's arrival in Gettysburg and learn more about this important period of time in our nation's history.

For tickets, visit GettysburgFoundation.org/Ticket-to-the-Past.

Shopping Opportunities Abound

LARK is located in a historic building on Lincoln Square.

LARK carries this cute selection of clocks that I'm always tempted to buy.

One of my favorite places is LARK, especially during the Christmas season. If you're at a loss as to what to buy as a gift for someone who seemingly has everything, LARK is the place to go.The 5,000 square foot shop, which opened in 2011, is located in an historic building located at 17 Lincoln Square on one of the original 210 lots developed in 1785 by James Gettys. 

Other shops downtown offer everything from art, to home decor, jewelry, apparel and more.  Gallery 30, at 26 York Street, is another shop you won't want to miss. Below are a few shots of the many interesting and beautiful items that they sell.

Dining Downtown

There are plenty of places to eat in the downtown area. One of my favorites is the historic Dobbin House Tavern, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This popular restaurant and Inn is known as Gettysburg's oldest building and was built by Reverend Alexander Dobbin, an early pioneer who helped settle the area. Dobbin needed a large house to not only accommodate his first wife and 10 children she bore to him, but his second wife who came along with nine additional children after the first one died. You can probably imagine that space might be a huge deal to him and his family, but also for the students at the school he founded. "The Classical School" was a combination theological seminary and liberal arts colleged and was one of the first in the area west of the Susquehanna River.

The Dobbin House contains seven cozy fireplaces that are often lit in the winter, as well as original stone walls and woodworking that has been restored to appear as it did during the days of Dobbin. To add to the charm, the waitstaff greets customers in colonial clothing. What is even more interesting, however, is that the silverware and china that are used at the restaurant. They were recreated to match fragments that were discovered during a cellar excavation.

Restaurant customers dine by candlelight and can tuck into items like crab cakes, filet mignon and prime rib. Downstairs at the Spring House Tavern, customers will experience an equally interesting, yet more casual atmosphere where sandwiches and salads are served. I suggest getting there early to avoid a long line for both places. Unfortunately, neither takes reservations at this time, but both are open seven days a week for lunch and dinner.

If you like your libations, you may enjoy the only Irish-owned pub in Gettysburg, located at 126 Chambersburg Street. The Garryowen offers an impressive list of 120 Irish whiskies, a selection of Irish beer on draft, and other imported and domestic selections as well. Menu favorites are created from locally sourced ingredients and include Irish Stew, bangers and mash, authentic Shepherd's pie made from an old family recipe and Irish onion soup (made with Guiness stout). The Pub is open for both lunch and dinner and often features live music.

The Garryowen Irish Pub is the only Irish-owned pub in Gettysburg.

The Mahogany bar at the Garryowen at an unusual time before patrons arrived.

These are just a few of the places I enjoy when I visit Gettysburg. You may also be interested to know that, for such a historical place, it's not very crowded and parking is reasonable compared to many other places I've visited.

If you decide to take my advice and visit any of these destinations, the best place to set your GPS for is the Racehorse Alley Parking Garage, where you'll pay $1.00 per hour and if that's not a bargain for a major tourist destination, then I don't know what is.

Safe travels!

Downtown Greenville--The South's Best Kept Secret

Here I am, once again, facing a long Pennsylvania winter. If you're familiar with Pa winters, you may be aware that we can easily get mountains of snow. This is always great fun for the kids, but for adults, not so much. This is why I am eyeing South Carolina as a permanent destination and am making it a point to keep an eye on the real estate market during the next few years. If we plan it right, my husband and I will be resettled there by the spring of 2025. And although I realize that I may not be sunning myself while sipping a cocktail with an umbrella in it during my birthday in March, I do think I'll be quite a bit warmer and as for that white stuff? I do hope I'll be seeing less of that and more of this below.

Man walks dog at Falls Park Along the Reedy.

Another shot of Falls Park along the Reedy.

By now you may have deduced that I'm exploring the Greenville area of South Carolina. Just last month we rented a very cute Airbnb with a balcony downtown. The only problem was that we were awakened most nights around 4 a.m. as food deliveries arrived at the local restaurants. This is a normal feature of urban life.  So while the location was super convenient, it was also a bit noisy.  If you're one of those people who like to sleep past 8 a.m., you might want to trade convenience for a good night's sleep and stay either in a high rise, or in the suburbs. 

The most striking thing about downtown Greenville is the Falls Park on the Reedy. The city, using funds from a hospitality tax, transformed a 32-acre area in the West End District into a beautiful public garden and area where the public can walk, shop, or simply people watch.

Part of the project included a suspension bridge designed by architect Miguel Rosales, to offer dramatic views of the falls and gardens below.

Visitors can also enjoy the artwork in Falls Park. Among the pieces installed there are the Rose Crystal Tower by Dale Chihuly, commissioned to honor Harriet Wyche, who was a life-long Greenville resident and community volunteer. Wyche was instrumental in establishing Falls Park.

Another work includes Falls Lake Falls, located at the entrance to Falls Park and sculpted by Bryan Hunt. Then there's "Untitled 2002-2003" by Joel Shapiro, which is the most valuable piece in the city's collection and known as the dancing, or running sculpture. There's also the "Sunflower Fountain," which can be found in Pedrick's Garden and was created by Ed Ziegler, Charles Gunning and Robert Brown. The cast bronze fountain was named after Pedrick Lowrey, a principal fundraiser for the park; it was also his favorite flower. 

Walking through the park is not only a lovely way to get some exercise, but also a way to spend time in some of the area's boutique shops, of which there are quite a few. Among the items sold are jewelry, apparel, art, and more and if you get hungry, you can always stop at one of the restaurants.

We enjoyed a nice dinner at the Passerelle Bistro, a casual French restaurant which serves dishes like mussels, croque monsieur and creme brulee, to name a few.

"Rose Crystal Sculpture" by Dale Chihuly. Photo credit: Stephanie Thorn

Passerelle Bistro, Credit: Vanzeppelin Arial/Visit Greenville, SC

When we visited Falls Park last year, a hotel was being built. It was cool to see it in its finished state this year. I was able to wander around inside to get a bit of a feel for the place. The décor is quite attractive and pulls from the beauty of its surroundings and the native Americans who once lived in the area.

The Grand Bohemian Lobby, featuring a stone fireplace.

A bison stone sculpture in front of the Grand Bohemian Hotel.

Falls Park is open from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., with free two-hour parking both on the street and in a parking lot located at West End Market, access via University Street.

Learn more about Falls Park by taking a virtual tour at https://citygis.greenvillesc.gov/FallsParkTour/index.html.

A short walk from Falls Park on the Reedy will take you to Main Street, where you'll find even more boutique shops, along with a wide selection of independent restaurants serving a variety of cuisines. On our first night, we indulged in small plates at Hall's Chophouse. Later we enjoyed a lunch at Limoncello. I heartily recommend both.

When we're out of town seeing the sights, it's difficult to pass up a local bookstore, so my husband and I spent time browsing the books at M. Judson Booksellers located at 130 Main, where I spotted an interesting light fixture comprised of spoons.

A chandelier, of sorts, hangs at M. Judson Booksellers.

The entrance to M. Judson Booksellers.

You'll also find more art scattered around downtown, paying homage to the area's native sons, or offering tribute to other symbols relevant to Greenville's history.

Joel Roberts Poinsett sits here.

If you travel to Greenville and its environs, you'll see Poinsett's name mentioned more than once. Poinsett was an American physician and member of the South Carolina legislature. He served as Secretary of War under Martin Van Buren and was a co-founder of the National Institute for the Promotion of Science and the Useful Arts, which was a precursor to the Smithsonian Institution.

Another curious piece of art located in downtown Greenville is the piggy below, which is a replica of a famous statue in Florence called Il Porcellino. The initiative was undertaken by an organization called "Young Friends of Florence" and its purpose is to raise funds to support restoration work in Florence, Italy. Legend has it that if you put money in his snout and it falls through the grate you'll receive good luck. Evidently rubbing his nose is supposed to do the same thing. I missed out on my chance to win the lottery since I didn't learn of these tips until after I returned home.

A boar statue crafted in the likeness of Florence's Il Porcellino. 

Vardry McBee, also known as the Father of South Carolina.

Another sculpture you'll come across in downtown Greenville is of Vardry McBee, a saddlemaker, merchant, farmer, entrepreneur and philanthropist who has also been called the father of South Carolina.

The Westin located in the heart of downtown.

In this building, you'll find a restaurant and a bookstore.

Downtown Greenville is also home to attractive architecture, like these buildings shown above and below.  

In the foreground is the visitors center. In the background is the Fidelity Investments Tower.

Of course, I had to take a photo of the local newspaper building, since I may be doing some work with them when I move. You never know. 

The Greenville News Building

The Mast General Store is famous because of its history, the first of which dates back to 1883. Mast stores sell home goods, work clothes, outdoor clothing and gear, old-fashioned candy and more.

Mast General Store Candy Barrels. Credit: South Carolina Parks, Recreation and Tourism.

Mast General Store Sign. Credit: Visit Greenville, South Carolina.

Another business of note, particularly for its uniqueness, is "Gather GVL" I spotted the colorful place about a year and a half ago when I was riding a tour bus. It certainly commands attention from the street and I vowed to return later to check it out. 

Gather GVL can be described as a food court, crafted of colorful shipping containers.

The destination, made of brightly colored intermodal shipping containers, offers a variety of food and drink for guests to enjoy.

It is located within walking distance of Fluor Field and a children's theatre, making it a convenient destination for families to gather after a game, or a show. Often visitors bring along their four-legged friends.

This is just a taste of what Greenville has to offer when it comes to restaurants, art, architecture, retail and more. And although it's currently known as the "best kept secret of the South," I doubt it will be known as such for very much longer.

 

Learning about William Penn at Pennsbury Manor

Few will argue that Pennsylvania is rich in history and even the small towns hold gems of information—just consult any local historical society and you’ll discover that to be true.

These past few years, I’ve spent time learning more about Pennsylvania history thanks to various organizations dedicated to keeping the past alive.

The front of the house, which faces the Delaware river.

A trip to Bucks county took me on an educational journey to Pennsbury Manor in Morrisville, where I learned a wealth of information about Pennsylvania’s founder William Penn, who became known as a champion of religious liberty and and a promoter of principles that laid the groundwork for the First Amendment.

For those who have yet to visit, Pennsbury Manor is the recreated home of William Penn on the Delaware River. Open to the public since 1939, the 43-acre site is comprised of 20 buildings designed to educate visitors on the life of those who lived during the early days when Pennsylvania was first founded.  A woodworker’s shop, a blacksmith shop, barns, stables, a woodshed, a “necessary,” (“outhouse”), a worker’s cottage and a Manor House are just a few of the buildings erected on the property.

The garden at Pennsbury Manor.

An exhibit at the visitor’s center titled, “The Seed of a Nation” provides insight into the how Penn laid the groundwork for religious tolerance and representative government.  A detailed timeline takes visitors on a journey of the life of William Penn, describing periods of his life where he progressed from “Young Aristocrat,” to “Quaker Spokesman,” “Optimistic Proprietor,” and finally, “Disillusioned Leader.”  A large scrolling list enumerates the many religions that were practiced here thanks to Penn. Many are recognizable, others require the assistance of google.

They say behind every successful man is a strong woman and Penn’s wife Hannah Callowhill Penn is no exception. A timeline takes visitors through the highlights of her life and the role she played as a helpmate to Penn. She resided in the Manor house while Penn spent most of his time in England.

An attractive, tiled fireplace at the manor.

An eating area at the Manor.

Doug Miller, Pennsbury Manor Director, said that “The Seed of a Nation” earned a national award from the American Association of State and Local History and that the site is significant in that it is the only place in Pennsylvania dedicated to William Penn.

The bedchamber reserved for overnight guests.

A particularly colorful bedroom in bright shades of yellow and red stands in stark contrast to some of the less vibrant colors in most of the other rooms and is a curiosity to many. Miller explains: “You’d set aside the best bedchamber for the overnight guests. The color choice was based on a period example of a home in England called the “Hamn House,” and they were the royal colors at the time,” he said.

In addition to guided and group tours, Pennsbury offers 60 types of educational programming ranging from period cooking, to woodworking and blacksmithing.

A re-enactor cooks on an open hearth.

Matthew Russell, formerly of the Harrisburg area, spent several summers learning about history there at day camp. “The staff is well educated and it’s a good place to gain an understanding about William Penn’s contributions,” said Russell, who benefited from hands-on experiences like baking muffins using flour milled on the property and currants grown onsite. “From a young age I was interested in William Penn and the month-long experience was really immersive; it was a great experience,” he said.

To learn more visit: www.pennsburymanor.org

Enjoying a Road Trip to Quaint Quebec

Fortification Gate at Rue Saint Louis.

The beauty and charm of Quebec can’t be underestimated.

When we visited the area last fall, we carefully weighed the decision to fly or drive from Pennsylvania. Because patience isn’t my strong suit, flying at first appeared to be preferable. But on further consideration, after factoring in the two-hour advance wait at the airport to fly out of the country, coupled with layovers and connections, we decided it would be less of a hassle to drive. 

The 670-mile drive went smoothly, with no traffic tie-ups and barely a wait to cross the border. If you rely upon the radio for your musical entertainment, please be aware you’ll be grooving to the sweet sounds of the French language during the last three hours of the drive. I can’t say this was unpleasant however, until the radio scanned to a rap station. Let’s just say rap music loses its edge a bit in the French language. C’est pas terrible…

The good news is that driving in Quebec is fairly easy, especially with today’s GPS systems.

Le Dauphin Quebec

The architecture and charm of Old Quebec City will take your breath away. So will the cost of staying in the town. The breathtaking Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac rents for approximately $530 a night. Knowing this, we opted for the more affordable Hotel & Suites Le Dauphin Quebec, situated about 15 miles away from Vieux Quebec. The rooms were spacious and clean, featuring attractive, striated hardwood floors throughout. I even managed to shoehorn in a nice swim in the hotel pool located off the first-floor lobby.

Vieux Quebec

Fountaine de Tourny in front of Parliament.

Parking is difficult in Vieux Quebec, but large lots on the outskirts offer ample parking and a five-minute walk will take you to the heart of the action. The narrow streets, many of which are one way, have perplexed many a non-native driver, so my advice is to park and walk, or take a taxi.

Hills abound in the city and you’ll definitely get your exercise, so plan your trip accordingly. Cobblestone streets designed for horse carts aren’t kind to heels either, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes.

Quaint stone shops dot the landscape with shopkeepers selling everything from clothing, to art, to maple candy on ice.

If you tire of walking, you’ll easily locate a horse and carriage with an English-speaking driver, who will be more than willing to give you a grand tour. Take a few minutes to ride the funicular, or incline, which is available for a few bucks and will take you on a short ride from the upper to the lower town.

Because the weather was unseasonably warm during our stay, we often opted for al fresco dining. During one of those days, we enjoyed lunch at Restaurant 1640, located within viewing distance of the aforementioned Chauteau Frontenac—a fabulously impressive building that dominates the skyline and is one of the iconic images of Quebec City. 

Views of the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, one of the most oft-photographed hotels in the world.

Fine dining in Old Quebec City is prevalent and the food is good, but you’ll pay a premium. One of the places we enjoyed was Conti Caffe, an Italian restaurant located on Rue Saint Louis. The veal ravioli was excellent, as were the other dishes we sampled. The interior, with its exposed brick walls and impressive artwork was romantic and inviting. Later, we indulged in after-dinner drink at aux Anciens Canadiens restaurant. Named for a 19^th-century book penned by Philippe Aubert de Gaspe, who once resided there, the house dates back to 1675. When we entered, we were greeted and led to the top floor, where we enjoyed watching people on the street from the window of our cozy perch. 

Aux Anciens Canadiens dates back to 1675.

On your visit, be sure to stop at the House of Parliament. The eight-floor building, located just outside the walls of old Quebec, is an impressive structure featuring 22 statues of prominent historical figures standing in windows, and lined up in front and on the grounds of the spectacular building.

House of Parliament.

Separating the Upper Town from the Lower Town is the elevated Promenade of Governors, a boardwalk that offers a lovely view of the St. Lawrence River.

La Promenade des Gouvernours

Another must-see in Old Quebec, especially for art lovers is the Rue de Tresor, which can best be described as an open air art gallery. 

Art abounds at the Rue de Tresor.

Wandering the Side Streets of the Old Town at Night

Edifice Price--the tallest building in old Quebec.

Don’t opt out of a ghost tour just because you think it’s hokey. We often learn fantastic historical tidbits when we go on these excursions and Quebec City was no exception. Did you know that there was a maritime disaster that rivaled the Titanic, but barely made the news? Called the “Empress of Ireland,” the ship sank in the Saint Lawrence River in 1914 and more than a thousand passengers perished on the ill-fated trip.

As we were led around the town at dusk, I snapped pictures that didn't turn out so well. However, I have decided to share this one here since I may have captured a shot of a ghost, as you can see in the foreground.

Did I capture a shot of a ghost here?

Our lantern-toting tour guide led us up and down the streets of Quebec City, through alleyways, behind restaurants and past historical residences, and into nooks and crannies we never knew existed. The 90-minute, briskly paced tour allows no time for lollygagging. My husband and I dallied once, towards the end of the tour, to snap a picture. We turned around to discover our group was gone. Like ghosts, they disappeared into thin air and we missed the end of the excursion.

Le Petit Seminaire de Quebec is a private, French language secondary school in the old city.

Baie- Saint-Paul

The last-minute decision to drive an hour to one of Quebec’s oldest municipalities was worth it for the scenery alone. Leaves were morphing into their spectacular fall colors and vistas seemed to be everywhere as our car made its way over the steep, hilly mountainsides.

One of the many beautiful vistas on our way to Baie-Saint-Paul

As we entered the city situated along the St. Lawrence at the mouth of the Gouffre River, we immediately found a lot with ample parking and took a slow, leisurely walk through the city known for its art galleries, shops and restaurants. For those who have visited New Hope, Pennsylvania, it’s reminiscent of that little town, but about one fifth the size.

Street scene in Baie-Saint-Marie

Les Galeries de la Capitale

Kids will have a blast at Les Galeries de la Capitale

On our way back from Baie-Saint-Paul, we stopped at a huge mall that you don't hear much about here in the states. If you really want to get your shop on www.galeriesdelacapitale.com offers plenty of opportunities to drop some serious cash. Touted as the largest complex in Eastern Canada, spanning 1.2 million square feet, the mall is a destination unto itself, with the biggest IMAX theatre in the country. Kids, in particular, will be pleasantly surprised when they see the Mega Parc, complete with amusement rides like bumper cars, a roller rink, a ferris wheel and arcade games. 

Preparing to Return

The lessons we learned during this trip was that our command of French wasn’t as good as either of us thought and because we turned off data on our phones while in transit, an old-fashioned guidebook might have been helpful. Many menus are completely in French and although English is spoken in Quebec, it’s not as ubiquitous as we anticipated.

We also learned that it might just be worth the money to stay in the heart of Old Quebec next time, even if just for two nights, which should be plenty of time to take in most of the sights. There are VRBOs out there that range around $200 a night.

We also learned that casual dining is plentiful in the many strip malls and fast food restaurants on the outskirts of town, while fine dining is prevalent in the old city. Now that we know our way around and what to expect we’ll definitely be returning to Old Quebec at some point to further enjoy this unique and beautiful city.