Learning from the Past in Johnstown Pennsylvania

As a native Pennsylvanian, I've traveled all over this vast state, but somehow Johnstown has escaped my radar, so I decided to check that area off my list just a few weeks ago. What I came back with was a newfound knowledge of history after visiting the Wagner-Ritter House, the Johnstown Flood Museum, and the Johnstown Heritage Discovery Center.

When my husband and I first arrived, we decided to get our bearings by taking a stroll around the downtown area. I can't say there's much there in the way of shopping, but a walk around Central Park is an enjoyable way to learn more about the history of the area.

The park was designated as a public space by Johnstown founder Joseph Johns when the area was chartered in 1800. In 1872, all buildings were cleared from the area and a formal public park was laid out, with an ornate fountain as the centerpiece. Approximately 100 trees were planted there, only to be wiped out by the catastrophic flood in 1889. The fountain above is said to approximate the original.

After the flood, the site was buried under eight feet of water and debris. Within days, however, it was transformed into a tent city inhabited by 6,000 laborers and 580 members of the 14th Pennsylvania Regiment who helped clear the area.

A memorial to the town father Joseph Johns erected in 1913 by the Johnstown citizens of German descent.

Additional structures in the park include a war memorial, a gazebo, a memorial to the flood victims, a fire fighters memorial bell and a memorial to the veterans of the Civil War.

Central Park Gazebo

This old fire bell was moved from a Johnstown Fire Station to Central Park.

A memorial commemorating the Wars of the United States.

The Wagner-Ritter House and Gardens

The exterior of the Wagner-Ritter House at 418 Broad Street

The next stop on our excursion was The Wagner-Ritter House, which Johnstown maintains to celebrate the life of the average immigrant working family working in the "shadow of the mills." The home was occupied for more than 130 years from the 1860s to the 1990s by three generations of a steelworker's family.

Before the tour commences, the public is encouraged to read about the residents of the house in the adjacent visitors' center, where large, wall-mounted boards offer background information on those who lived there.

Wagner was an immigrant, laborer, husband and father who worked in the steel mills of the Cambria company and his house was built in the 1860s. The four-room home eventually grew to seven rooms sometime during the births of the Wagner's 13 children. Their daughter Anna later went on to marry a Ritter and her family later lived in the house. Visitors can learn quite a bit about Anna, who lived from 1866 to 1968 and witnessed a dizzying array of technological changes during the course of her 102-year-old lifetime.

Guide Mackenzie Croyle was a wealth of information as we proceeded from room to room as she explained how simply the German family lived, their dedication to their Catholic faith and how their house changed over time. Croyle was extremely thorough, covering even small details down to the plank framing and layers of wallpaper that changed over time.

Our guide, Makenzie Croyle describes one of the most important rooms in the house--the kitchen.

One of the more intriguing items I spotted hanging on the wall of the house was what our guide described as a "last rites kit." I couldn't help but wonder how many times it had been used. I guess that will remain a mystery.

Last rites kit.

Stairs blocked by a wood partition lead to a child's bedroom upstairs.

During the summer of 1991 and 1992, the Johnstown Area Heritage Association sponsored an archeological dig in the backyard of the Wagner-Ritter House. With the help of more than 70 volunteers under the direction of professional archeologists, the project yielded over 20,000 artifacts, some of which were mere shards of glass. Others were larger objects like toys and glassware used by the family. The majority of the items found were related to the Wagner brothers' soda factory. What's notable about those finds is that the project revealed a variety of soda closures to keep the "fizz" in. The excavators also discovered that they used recycled bottles too; some came from as far as Florida. Guests will be able to view the artifacts in the rear of the visitors center after they take the tour of the garden, which replicates what the owners may have grown there. Today, the crops are donated to a local food pantry.

A raised-bed garden not unlike what the Wagner's would have cultivated.

If you schedule a tour, be prepared to spend about an hour and 15 minutes with the guide at the site where questions are encouraged!

The Wagner-Ritter House and Garden is open for pre-booked, guided tours on Tuesdays, Wednesday, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Order your tickets by clicking on this link.

The World's Steepest Inclined Plane

A shot of the world's steepest inclined plane.

Did you know that the world's steepest vehicular inclined plane exists in Johnstown? It can carry passengers and automobiles up or down a slope with a grade of 71.9 percent and was completed in 1891 after the tragic flood of 1889 to serve as an escape route from floods in the valley. While visiting, I learned that the plane served its purpose twice so far in its history--in 1936 and then again in 1977.

I have to say that I was rather disappointed to be unable to ride it during our visit. I learned later that renovations began in February of 2022 and are slated to be completed in the spring of 2023.

Asiago's Italian Restaurant

The view from our table at Asiago's restaurant.

Situated above the Johnstown Incline Plane is Asiago's restaurant, which deserves its own subhead for the view alone, although the food wasn't bad either. I recommend the lobster ravioli with the basil cream sauce.

Lobster Ravioli with Basil Cream Sauce

In addition to the lobster ravioli, Asiagos Tuscan Italian Restaurant offers Italian classics like Veal Parmiagiana, Lasagna, Five-Cheese Ravioli, Chicken Marsala and more. If you make reservations and prefer a window seat, be sure to let them know in advance.

Learning about a Tragedy at the Johnstown Flood Museum

The Johnstown Flood Museum is housed in a former public library.

Before visiting the Flood Museum, I knew little about the 1889 Johnstown Flood. I do know that Pennsylvanians are STILL paying the Johnstown Flood tax on liquor, but Johnstown doesn't see a penny of that money anymore. It was established to rebuild the area and when the project was deemed done, legislators voted to keep it intact, even raising it twice over the years. Are you wondering where that money goes? I can tell you that it gets funneled into the Pennsylvania general fund. This article in the York Daily Record explains everything. 

A representation of the debris that swept through communities

I was also unaware that the South Fork Hunting and Fishing Club played a prominent part in the tragedy. Before taking the tour of the museum, we were encouraged to watch a 20-minute movie which explains it very well.

Members of the secretive and secluded club included wealthy industrialists like Henry Clay Frick, Andrew Mellon and Andrew Carnegie, to name a few. The club purchased an old dam and reservoir from entrepreneur Benjamin Ruff who envisioned a summer retreat in the hills above Johnstown. Over the years the dam had been neglected and, according to the Johnstown Heritage Association (JAHA), not much was done to rectify that situation, other than patching leaks with mud and straw. To add insult to injury, the club decided to make modifications which were, in hindsight, considered dangerous. 

One of the modifications cited by the JAHA included installing fish screens across the spillway to keep prized game fish from escaping. This had the unfortunate effect of capturing debris and preventing the spillway from draining off the lake’s overflow. The club also lowered the dam by a few feet in order to make it possible for two carriages to pass at the same time, so the dam was only about four feet higher than the spillway. Finally, they never reinstalled the drainage pipes so that the reservoir could be drained. 

When the rains came on May 30 and 31st, 1889, the spillway couldn't keep up and the dam burst releasing 20 million tons of water on the communities downstream. The aftermath is well worth reading at the JAHA website: https://www.jaha.org/attractions/johnstown-flood-museum/flood-history/the-club-and-the-dam/

In addition to detailing the history of the flood, the Flood Museum tells stories of journalists reporting on the tragedy, the families devastated by the disaster and how Hollywood capitalized on it with sensationalistic movies and more.

Some statistics learned while at the museum: 

2,209 people died. 

The destruction of Johnstown took 10 minutes. 

396 children under the age of 10 died. 

568 children lost one, or both parents.

The force of the flood swepts several locomotives weighing 170,000 pounds as far as 4,800 feet.

Bodies were found as far away as Cincinnatti, Ohio as late as 1906.

Because of the heavy rains, the damn contained 20,000,000 tons of water before it broke. This is the equivalent of the volume of water that goes over Niagara Falls in 36 minutes

The tour of The Flood Museum was both sobering and enlightening and reminds me of that old saying by George Santayana, who said, "Those who do not learn history are doomed to repeat it." 

We later visited Grandview Cemetery in Johnstown where nearly 800 unidentified victims of the flood were laid to rest. 

Flood victims in Grandview Cemetery.

The Heritage Discovery Center

The Heritage Discovery Center was a brewery in the early 1900s.

The final leg of the trip included a visit to the Heritage Discovery Center located in a 1907 building which once was home to the Germania Brewery.

The tour leads visitors on a journey to discover how immigrants made their way to the Johnstown area and the professions they undertook. Each person is given a card with an immigrants name on it and instructed to stop periodically and wave the card beneath a barcode to learn their chosen immigrants fate at various steps of the way.

I was quite surprised when I was learned my card would follow Prokop Kalina! Kalina is my maiden name and I was excited until I was told these were "composite" immigrants. I thought for a moment I may have found a distant relative.

As we made our way through the museum, we encountered immigration officials who stopped some and waved on others. As we continued, we learned more about how these people lived, raised families and made their livlihoods in their new surroundings.

The ultimate fate of Prokop Kalina? He became a butcher, which is interesting because the other part of my name is Metzger--which means butcher in German.

When we finished that tour, we continued onto the third floor that housed the Johnstown Children's Museum, which was quite extensive and interactive and may warrant its own article in a magazine at a later date. Kids could try on clothing, shop at a supermarket and engage in a variety of fun, yet educational pursuits.

Children can shop for goods at the general store.

An exhibit where children can crawl through the "mines" before taking a ride on a sliding board.

The Children's Center features interactive, educational exhibits.

After we finished the tour in the main building, the guide suggested we visit a separate building called The Center for Metal Arts, which contained an extensive collection of artifacts pertaining to steel forging and manufacturing. 

Steel production artifacts on display at the Iron & Steel Gallery.

Visitors can view a short movie called "The Mystery of Steel," which plays on a 30-foot wide screen on the bottom floor of the gallery and includes historic photography and film shot in Johnstown before Bethlehem Steel closed its local mills in the 1990s. Vibration inducers beneath the seats and heat projectors allow audiences to feel like they're in an actual working mill. To learn more about this area of the center, I suggest watching this presentation put together by JAHA.

Well that's about it for my Johnstown trip to destinations that can be enjoyed no matter what the weather is outside. I hope these few ideas will help you get started in your sightseeing journey should you decide to visit the area.

Seeing the Sights in Hawley

Hawley, Pennsylvania isn't a place that springs to mind when contemplating the Poconos, nonetheless it is worth a visit if you're headed that way. 

The small borough is situated at the northernmost end of Lake Wallenpupack in Wayne County and was founded in 1827 by Irad Hawley, the president of the Pennsylvania Coal Company during the days when coal was king.

My husband and I visited a few weeks ago for a short two-day getaway to enjoy the beauty of the area, from the waterfalls at the Ledges Hotel, to the art at the repurposed silk mill and the scenery at Lake Wallenpaupak.

Accommodations

The Settler's Inn, built in 1927

One of the first things you'll want to do while contemplating visiting the area is to select a place to stay. I can recommend both the Settlers Inn and the Ledges Hotel, both of which are conveniently located within minutes of various attractions.

Built in the 1920s as an Arts and Crafts Lodge, the Settlers Inn is situated on six acres of land surrounded by gardens and bordering the Lackawaxen River. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at the award-winning, chef-owned farm-to-table restaurant and during the warmer months guests can grab a drink at a small bar around the corner from the check-in desk before strolling outside on the expansive deck. Once there, they can relax on the comfy chairs and take in a view of the elaborately landscaped grounds.

Later, guests can retire to their rooms and enjoy other amenities like jacuzzi tubs, microfiber robes, fireplaces and free internet.

A nearby sister property to the Settlers Inn is the newer Ledges Hotel, which features a stunning view of the river gorge falls, which guests can admire from their perch at the onsite bar and bistro known as "Glass."

Shots of the River Gorge Falls taken from the Ledges restaurant "Glass."

Guests relax at the bar inside "Glass."

Comfortably appointed rooms at Ledges feature local artwork and a sitting room in the main area also provides a view of the falls.

The sitting area also provides views of the falls.

Art, Retail and More

The Hawley Silk Mill is the largest bluestone building in the world.

Located adjacent to the Ledges Hotel is the Hawley Silk Mill. Built in 1880, the Mill has the distinction of being the largest bluestone building in the world. The former industrial site now houses Lackawanna College  and features a unique collection of shops, offering home decor, children's clothing, bath and body items, art, candles and gifts.

An artist's rendering of the silk mill hangs inside the building.

If you enjoy craft beer, be sure to head to the lower level of the silk mill where you'll find a nanobrewery called Hopping Eagle. Their lineup includes IPAs, Hefeweizen, Porters and even fruited beer, known as "sours," which are experiencing a spike in popularity in the United States.

Hopping Eagle Brewing Company is located on the lower level of the Hawley Silk Mill.

Before leaving the silk mill, be sure to visit the standalone building in front of the mill called "Cocoon Coffee House and Bakery." The cozy cafe was once home to the cocoons which supplied the silk for the mill. Today visitors can enjoy coffee crafted from custom-blended beans and pair that with pastries, sandwiches, soups, snacks and more.

The eatery known as "Cocoon."

Located just a mile away from the area is Lake Wallenpaupack, where you can hop on board a pontoon boat for a 50-minute cruise, during which you'll learn about the history of the region, along with details about the reservoir, which was created in 1926 by PPL for hydroelectric purposes.

Scenes along Lake Wallenpaupack.

If you're planning on visiting with a group, Lake Wallenpaupack Tours offers charters for groups of four or fewer on their Harris Sunliner Pontoon Boat. Charters come with a captain and prices start at $325.

Another attraction in Hawley that is fun for the entire family is Costa's Family Fun Park, which operates from mid-June through Labor Day and offers go-karts, batting cages, mini-golf, water slides, laser tag, bumper boats and more. 

Costa's Family Fun Park in Hawley features mini-golf and more.

Well that's about it, for now. This is what I call a "hit and run" excursion--a quick way to enjoy a short trip to another region for a change of scenery and a little fun as the summer begins winding down. 

 

Much to Explore in Bedford, Pa

If you love history and you're looking for something special to do on a long weekend, Bedford, Pennsylvania is sure to fit the bill, from a village that takes visitors back in time, to a museum that commemorates the construction of the original French and Indian War Fort built in 1758, to a hotel that was built to take advantage of the healing waters of the area.

My first recommendation upon entering town, however, is to stop at the Visitors' Center, which, you'll discover is larger than most and is full of pamphlets and helpful guides who can describe the many diverse activities available to those in the area.

One of the first things my husband and I did last time we visited Bedford was to take the 90-minute, self-guided tour, which combines walking and driving to visit various places.  Founder's Crossing, located on Juliana Street, is one of the first stops on the list and is home to an array of merchandise from home goods, to antiques and collectibles. Look down upon entering and you'll see a reminder of a store that once operated there.

G.C. Murphy once operated at Founder's Crossing.

Founder's Crossing carries home decor, antiques, collectibles and more.

Also, on the tour is the Anderson House. Built in 1815 for Dr. John Anderson by Solomon Filler, designer of the nearby Bedford Springs Resort, the courthouse and the art museum, the Anderson House is characteristic of the Federalist style of architecture.

The Anderson House built in 1815.

And no trip to Bedford would be complete without a glimpse of a piece of programmatic architecture, also referred to as mimetic architecture and even as "ducks." The famous "Coffee Pot" has been the site of many a selfie and was built in 1927 by David Koontz. It was slated for demolition in the 1990s, but cooler heads prevailed and it was saved and restored in 2004.

The Coffee Pot in Bedford, built in 1927.

After becoming familiar with the area on the architectural tour, you can continue your history lesson by visiting a living history site known as Old Bedford Village. Old Bedford Village opened in 1976 and portrays life in Pennsylvania from 1700 until 1899.

Old Bedford Village Welcome Center

Visitors are provided with a map upon arrival to help them navigate their way around the sprawling village. On the back of the map is a short description of the 40 buildings situated on the site, some of which are authentic and others which are reproductions. 

Old Bedford Village is especially attractive to families with children of all ages because they can take off and run from building to building, while learning from re-enactors who are skilled in commanding tots' attention.

Log homes like these are the first structures visitors see on the self-guided tour.

The first house on our stop was the Biddle House and inside was a re-enactor who explained the concept of Bedford Village and how it became a mixture of old and replicated structures to assist in aiding visitors to understand what life was like in the days of yore.

A re-enactor at an 18th-century log farmhouse moved from an area nearby called Dutch Corner.

The 8-square (sided) public school built in East St. Clair Township in 1851 by Quaker Nat Hoover.
It closed in 1932.

The Pendergrass Tavern

The Pendergrass Tavern is a recreation from a historical novel titled, Bedford Village. The original Pendergrass Tavern operated just outside the walls of Fort Bedford in the 1750's.

The volunteers/re-enactors are extremely dedicated to sharing their knowledge of history with all guests who visit. The gentleman above drives from West Virginia to share his passion. Everything displayed on the table is crafted by him.

The tin shop.

Children are invited to engage in various activities around the village. In the tin shop they can try their hand at making their own tin punch by choosing from a variety of patterns ranging from liberty bells to puppies and hammering away on the wooden blocks in the shop.

Families can visit Bedford Village Memorial Day Weekend through October 31, Thursday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Another educational site located in Bedford is the Fort Bedford Museum, built in 1958 to commemorate the construction of the original French and Indian War fort in 1758. Today the museum houses approximately 4,000 artifacts.

The Fort Bedford Museum houses thousands of artifacts.

In 2019, the museum decided to bring to life the story of "Indian Eve" Ernst, whom guests will learn about when they visit. "Indian Eve" spent nine years in captivity before being able to return to her hometown of Bedford. Below is a small, deer-hide covered trunk that she took with her when she was able to head for home. It was donated by the family.

Indian Eve's trunk manufactured in 1777.

A model of Fort Bedford.

The "Becoming Bedford" exhibit displays many relics of days gone by like the items shown below.

An early mail sleigh.

Another exhibit titled, "Cave to Empire," helps guests understand the clash of cultures that set the stage for the French and Indian War in the mid-1700's. 

Those interested in visiting the Fort Bedford Museum will find it at 110 Fort Bedford Drive. Hours and admission prices can be found at the website by clicking here. 

The Omni Bedford Springs

The history continues, only this time we skip ahead quite a bit to the Omni Bedford Springs. You may recall Dr. John Anderson who was mentioned earlier. Dr. Anderson was also responsible for purchasing the 20,000-acre property where the Omni now stands after learning about the eight mineral springs onsite. He then set about building bathing facilities for his patients there, offering them prescriptions for their ailments and housing them in tents on the property.

As "taking the waters" grew in popularity, Anderson decided to take the next step and erect a hotel for his guests. In 1816, Attorney James Buchanan visited the Springs for the first time, followed by Thomas Jefferson, who suffered from acute rheumatism. By 1842, the resort had earned luxury status. Frequent guests included Presidents Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, James K. Polk and Zachary Taylor. Other dignitaries included Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and John C. Calhoun. As the hotel gained a reputation as a retreat for the elite, it attracted top businessmen and industrialists, including such luminaries as Henry Ford and John Wanamaker, who maintained a suite on the first floor. 

Buchanan famously used the resort as his "Summer White House" from 1857-1861 and received the first transatlantic cable from England's Queen Victoria while staying at the Bedford Springs Hotel in the summer of 1858. 

Guests can explore the springs themselves. Of the eight springs on the property, three are capped: the Sweet Spring, the Sulphur Spring and the Crystal Spring. The Sweet Spring was used by the early hotel for cooking and washing and is marked by a lion's head sculpture. The Sulphur Spring, formerly known as the Yellow Spring, was used to treat moderate bleeding, constipation and chronic diseases. The Crystal Spring, located south of the resort, was once compared to the "Carlsbad of Europe." Part of a mammoth was also discovered nearby during an excavation.

The Iron Spring is one of eight springs on site.

Non-capped springs include the Magnesia Spring, the Limestone Spring, the Black Spring, the Iron Spring and the Eternal Spring. The Magnesia Spring, located behind the wedding grotto, was demonstrated to have many curative properties and was used to treat liver disease, malaria and stomach and kidney disease. The Black Spring is said to contain the most potable water and is responsible for the irrigation of the golf course. The effervescent Iron Spring contains iron and common salts and was used for blood and bone disorders. The Eternal Spring was discovered beneath the hotel during the most recent renovation. It feeds the indoor pool and the on-site spa. 

One courtesy that the Omni generously offers non-guests is the opportunity to explore the springs on the property. They are also encouraged to take advantage of any scheduled tours and are welcome to visit the restaurants on site as well.

Let's Go Shopping

In addition to Founder's Crossing mentioned earlier, there are many other shops in the walkable town of Bedford. One of the first shops I usually make while visiting is Bedford Candies. The small business located at 132 East Pitt Street has been making handmade, hand-dipped chocolates since 1929. The bright and cheery store was operated by the Sotirokos family for three generations before employee Tammy Wiley and her son Adam assumed ownership. She continues the daily tradition of making products onsite using old family recipes.

Bedford Candies run by Tammy Wiley and her son Adam.

Next up, is Pigeon Hill Studios on Juliana Street, for those who enjoy art. Below are a few works that commanded my attention while visiting.  I love how they repurpose horseshoes here. 

A stool crafted with horseshoes.

More local art.

Also located on Juliana Street is the Peppercorn Market where you'll find an array of jams, jellies, olive oils and more to purchase for yourself or a foodie friend. The owner is very friendly and so are her customers; we all ended up having a lovely conversation when I visited.

The Peppercorn Market carries an array of jams, jellies, olive oil and more.

Another fun shop for the foodie is LifeSTYLE, which carries everything from pasta, to Pannettone and pesto. One item that stands out to me now after I had a chance to get a good look at the picture below is the pasta made with hemp flour. Hemp flour is notable for being high in protein--a good choice if your goal is to increase your protein levels. I have yet to try it, but if any of you have, please let me know what you think. 

LIFeSTYLE carries an array of Italian specialties.

Other downtown shops include the BellaTerra Vineyards, Hebrews Coffee Company, KJ Seasonals and Juli's Wearable Art to name just a few.

BellaTerra Vineyards and tasting room below.

Juli's Wearable Art offers artisan and vintage apparel.

A Trip to the Art Museum

The Southern Alleghenies Museum of Art

The Southern Alleghenies Museum of Art (SAMA) was founded in 1976 and operates the longest-running museum satellite system, with facilities in Altoona, Bedford, Johnstown, Ligonier and Loretto. It maintains a permanent collection of more than 7,500 works of local, regional, national and international artists. 

When we visited the Bedford location, the work of Michael Mosorjak was on display.  The Johnstown artist is skilled in working with oils and several of his pieces are shown below.

Middle Street, by Michael Mosorjak.

Red on Blonde, by Michael Mosorjak

Christmas Amaryllis, by Michael Mosorjak

Upstairs, the museum usually offers classes for the community. While I visited, a group of ladies were working on fiber art.

Fiber art class.

The SAMA is open from Wednesday to Sunday and admission is free.

Accommodations

The Golden Eagle Inn is within walking distance of most destinations.

Accommodations in the heart of the action can be found at the Golden Eagle Inn. Our room was bright, spacious and comfortable. Free breakfast is offered at their onsite restaurant, which is known for its excellent food. 

The room at the Golden Eagle.

These are just a few ideas you may want to consider on a trip to Bedford and are ideal for a three-day weekend. For more ideas, I'll invite you to visit the Bedford Visitor's Bureau website at: https://www.visitbedfordcounty.com/.