Thursday, September 20, 2018

Art, Architecture, History and More in Fun Frederick Maryland


spires
The clustered spires of Frederick.

This has been a very wet summer--I believe the wettest on record in our area, so I have been squeezing in activities while I can.

A few weeks ago, I decided to spend two nights in Frederick, Maryland, Frederick is a great walking city with plenty of independent shops, restaurants, an impressive art walk and the fascinating Civil War Museum of Medicine.

I was disappointed to miss out on a ghost tour due to a deluge, but I realize these are small problems compared to the rest of the country and was thankful that it only rained for a few hours one evening.

Luckily, I was able to swap out the ghost tour with a food tour before I left the following day. Tours, no matter what their theme, are always informative and local tour guides are happy to answer any questions that might pop up during the walk.

First Stop: The Frederick Visitors' Center
Although obvious, it sometimes bears repeating that the Visitors' Center should be your first stop for event schedules, brochures describing activities and maps to learn the lay of the land.

The Frederick Visitors' Center is located at 151 S. East Street, Frederick in a renovated warehouse that dates back to 1899. It is open seven days a week from 9 to 5:30 p.m. and touts 2,200 square feet of interpretive exhibits, along with a state-of-the-art theater that features a film about the area. Helpful Visitors' Services Specialists are always on duty to answer any questions.  They also validate parking, which is free for three hours at any of the area's five garages.

The Public Art Trail
What initially attracted me to the area was the Public Art Trail, which is in walking distance of the Visitors' Center. It did not disappoint

The first stop on the trail is The Delaplaine Arts Center located at 40 S. Carroll Street.
gallery
Bin Feng, a Shanghai-born artist displays his photos in "The American Dream" installation.
 art
The free museum operates as a non-profit and is housed in a re-purposed mill that dates back more than a century. Their tagline: "Everyone Deserves Art," and it is provided abundantly with three floors of rotating exhibits featuring regional and national artists. During our visit, we experienced the thought-provoking work of Bin Feng, whose installation titled, "The American Dream" evokes the isolation he feels as a Shanghai-born artist living in America. His large-scale photographs possess a dream-like quality and he often appears in them as a dispassionate outsider.

Seven galleries of exhibits change monthly, so there is almost always something new to see.
A sculpture garden out back features contemporary art sculptures among the blooms.
sculpture garden
A sculpture garden is located behind the Delaplaine Arts Center.
art center
The Delaplaine Arts Center offers art classes, workshops and seven galleries of rotating artwork.
Located not far from the garden is the Iron Bridge traversing Carroll Creek Park. Created by David David Chikvashvili and Nikolai Pakhomov of Iron Masters, it highlights some of nature's wonders that can be seen in the area.
bridge
The hand-forged iron and steel bridge that crosses Carroll Creek.
bridge

Nearby is the spectacular trompe l'oeil mural, which was conceived and executed by Frederick artist William Cochran in 1993. He and his assistants used permanent silicate paints to create the expansive work on all six walls of the Community Bridge.
trompe l'oeil
"The Forgotten Song."

Trompe l'oeil
Tour guides have noticed birds trying to land on "The Unfound Door."

trompe l'oeil
"The Woman of Samaria."

archangel
"Archangel" depicts a painting technique called "anamorphic projection" a technique invented by Leonardo da Vinci where the image appears different at various angles. The painting's message? "Where we stand, determines what we see."

art
Hands holding the earth.

art
art

The artist's concept was met with quite a bit of controversy at first. It took years before the city was given the green light to go ahead and within a period of five years, the painting of the bridge was completed. The award-winning work of art is described as one that  "speaks with a communal voice." You can learn more about this impressive project by clicking on the video below.


More art awaits on the Stone-Arch Bridge crossing the Carroll Creek where zodiac-themed sculptures are installed on both sides. This is another work created by Nikolai Pakhomov, with the message that time, universe and humanity are connected.
zodiac art
Zodiac Sculptures
statue
This statue is situated in front of the library and was created by George Lundeen. It depicts two children gazing over the shoulder of an adult as he reads the lyrics of the Star-Spangled Banner.
Nature's art plays a part as well, with plants that bloom in the creek that flows through the middle of the park. I believe I may have just missed a spectacular show, but you can see that a few plants were still blooming when I visited in early September. We spotted a few ducks as well.
trompe l'oeil
The bottom one is real.
mallard

Among the 4,000 plants are lilies, lotuses, water irises, reeds and cattail. You can see additional pictures and learn more about "Color on the Creek" here.
bloom
lotus


Additional works of art continue on buildings located downtown, like this depiction of The Frederick News-Post.
newspaper mural
Frederick News-Post mural
And no, the picture below isn't some 80's rocker belting out "Eye of the Tiger." The mural, also done by Cochran, is named "Edge of Gravity," and depicts a young man from 1745. The red, white and blue colors are to intended to evoke a 250-year-old dream of liberty, equality and inclusion.
levitating man mural
The Edge of Gravity.

Further along the way at 108 Church Street is "Guess," the Greyhound sculpture. Lore has it that the dog was named by the impish little girls who lived in the building after the Civil War, who, when asked their dog's name, would reply "Guess."
Greyhound sculpture
Guess, the dog statue is located at 108 W. Church Street
Along the same vein is this sculpture, a Newfoundland known as "Charity Dog," named for the work of the non-profit Federated Charities housed in this building at 22 S. Market Street.
charity dog
"Charity Dog" is located at 22 S. Market Street.
The last piece two pieces of art I'll share with you were painted by Cochran as part of his "Angels in the Architecture" series. 
trompe l'oeil
aging angel mural
The top painting is called"Egress," and is located at Second and Market. The second painting, also created by Cochran, is named "Earthbound" and depicts an aging angel overlooking the city.

Historical Sites

The National Museum of Civil War Medicine
It's easy to think we have it bad when it comes to pain and various ailments our society contends with, so sometimes a trip back in history is necessary to kick us in the pants and remind us of how blessed we are.

The National Museum of Civil War Medicine, which spans two floors, is both interesting and informative. Placards, dioramas and exhibits transport visitors to the Civil War time period and the rapidly evolving world of medicine.
ether
A patient is sedated with ether.
According to Jake Wynn, Educational Programming Coordinator at the museum, the war took place in an interesting time when the Industrial Revolution was just underway. "Engineering, science and a whole host of other fields were just beginning to enter into their modern forms," he said, adding that many of the lessons learned on the battlefield were brought back to civilian life. Specialization emerged from the Civil War, from plastic surgery for treating disfiguring facial injuries, to dental surgery that came with the rebuilding of jaws and neurologists who specialized in treating head injuries.  Fun fact:  Half of the early brain surgeries performed by Civil War era doctors were successful!

Additional innovations that emerged during that period as a direct result of the war was the practice of embalming, females' roles in nursing, and the ambulance system.
Civil War Exhibit
A doctor peers into his medicine chest.
Our informative guide, John Lustrea, led us through the museum to provide us with an overview and answer our questions. There was quite a bit to read along the way, so I think I'll return at some point to delve deeper into more details. I appreciated seeing the Clara Barton exhibit and learning more about her as well. Not only did she found the Red Cross, but she was also instrumental in what would today be described as a crowd-sourcing effort to help connect soldiers' remains with the families seeking them.
Clara Barton artifact
Clara Barton's trunk bed.
Guests can also spend time reading about how various ailments were treated. One exhibit was dedicated to the treatment of  STDs which, I was told, were not uncommon during the period.

There is much to see, read and digest in this captivating museum, which provides insight into this sad, yet fascinating, pivotal point in our history.

The Museum of Frederick County History
The Museum of Frederick County History was once an orphanage and a private home.

The Museum of Frederick County History located at 24 E. Church Street, once served as an orphanage and private residence. It is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum is open to the public from Wednesday through Sunday and a changing selection of exhibits tells the story of Frederick County from Colonial Times to the present day.
room
An interior room of the Museum of Frederick County History.
staircase
Two floors of exhibits share details on Frederick County and its impact on the nation.
history


Signature events include walking and architectural tours. To learn more, consult their website for dates and times.

Before we left, we couldn't resist purchasing "The Diary of Jacob Englebrecht." Jacob served as mayor from 1865 to 1868 and began recording his day-to-day life when he turned 20. He continued to journal on a daily basis for 60 years. I might also add that it was quite the bargain at $25 for both tomes.
Englebrecht
Jacob Englebrecht documents his life over a period of 60 years.
Englebrecht

historical society
A children's room encourages interactive play for budding historians.











Visiting the Monocacy Battlefield
The Monocacy Battlefield  serves as a memorial of the battle fought between the Union and Confederate armies on July 9, 1964. 
Monocacy
The Monocacy National Battlefield Visitors' Center
Each year approximately more than 43,000 tourists visit the area to learn more about the Battle of Monocacy, where Union troops staved off an effort to take Washington, D.C. 

The Visitors' Center, located at 5201 Urbana Drive, is open daily from 9 to 5 p.m. and should be the first stop on your visit. There you can pick up maps and learn more before touring the fields. The two-story center opened to the public in 2007. The first floor contains a welcome area and gift shop and the second floor features interactive exhibits to help shed light on the soldiers, citizens and families who were affected by the battle. 

Guests can learn more about the battle through a self-guided automobile tour, which features five stops spanning six miles. Those who prefer to tour the area on foot can traverse six miles of designated walking trails.
cannons
Cannons seen from the balcony of the visitors' center.
Monocacy visitors' center
Learn about the Battle of Monocacy at the Visitors' Center.
balcony
A view of the battlefield from the balcony with interpretive signage.

Standing on the battlefield, it's difficult to imagine that the peaceful setting along the Monocacy River was once the site of a fierce and bloody battle to the death. This destination, run by the National Park Service, provides the public with the finer details of a fight that doesn't seem to get all much attention, yet is credited for saving Washington, D.C. 

Sippity-Do-Da
brewery

brewery
The exterior of the Flying Dog Brewery on a cloudy day.
Frederick is home to its fair share of breweries and choosing just one was difficult. In the end, we decided to take a drive out to Wedgewood Boulevard to check out the place that could be described as one of the pioneers in the area's craft brewing industry. Flying Dog Brewery was founded in 1990 in Colorado and expanded into Maryland in 2006. Today it is the largest craft brewery in Maryland and the 28th largest in the United States.

Guests can sign up for free tours held Thursday through Sunday. Cards are available listing a number of flights available for tasting and guests can simply mark which ones they'd like to try. The night we visited, the place was hopping (pardon the pun). The tasting room was standing room only, so many patrons wandered outside with their refreshing libations to relax and socialize at the picnic tables, or stare at their phones. (Gotta stay real here.) A few patrons engaged in a friendly game of cornhole, while others lined up at the food truck on site.
tasting room
Flying Dog's busy tasting room.

brewery
Guests relax at tables out front.

Dining and Shopping in Frederick

Frederick is home to scores of independent boutiques and eateries and a few large-scale antique stores. We actually got lost in Emporium Antiques as we strolled through the maze of rooms.
antique shop
Emporium Antiques features scores of vendors.
shop
Interesting decor items at Industrial Home Inc.
On the last day of our visit, we decided to learn more about the city and its food offerings by taking a "Taste Frederick" food tour. We met our guide and about 10 other friendly folks for a three-hour tour that took us through the town and into various eating establishments. Our first visit at Pretzel & Pizza Creations started with what was billed as a "turkey Reuben calzone," something I wouldn't have ordered, but ended up liking quite a bit. Other stops included Firestone's Market on Market located beside the restaurant we had visited the night before There we enjoyed a pastrami sandwich. "People come from miles around for these," said our guide.
restaurant
Firestone's Restaurant
As we walked the streets, we learned stories of Frederick and its architecture, including interesting information about sisters that used to live in this mansion where top-chef alumni Brian Voltaggio operates a popular restaurant by the name of Volt.
restaurant
Volt is located at 228 North Market Street.
On the tour, we sampled craft beer at Brewer's Alley, which has an interesting story that dates back to the 1700s. If that piques your attention, I've provided the link here.
brewery
Brewer's Alley is located at 124 N. Market Street.

We also took a stroll along the picturesque Carroll Creek to The Wine Kitchen on the Creek where we indulged in fried green tomatoes, wine and homemade cinnamon buns.
shops
Shops and restaurants along Carroll Creek.

restaurant
Inside The Wine Kitchen on the Creek.
restaurant

Our last two shops included the North Market Pop Shop, which offers 400 types of soda, some with unusual names like "Always Ask for Avery's Totally Gross Dog Drool."  I am glad we weren't offered that flavor.

soda shop
The North Market Pop Shop offers 400 types of soda.

pop

The last stop on our tour was Zoe's Chocolate Co. where we enjoyed a truffle sampling. Zoe's is a third-generation chocolate company that started in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania and expanded into Frederick. You can learn more about their story here.

shop
Our engaging and knowledgeable guide prepares the chocolates for serving.
Well, that's more than I intended to write for this blog. Hard to believe I spent less than three days in Frederick. Perhaps this will be an enticement to set up your own visit to the area. One thing's for sure--you won't run out of things to do.

Friday, September 14, 2018

A Long Weekend in Historic Charlottesville, Virginia



home
Charlottesville is home to Thomas Jefferson's Monticello
A few weeks ago, I decided to carve out a few days to poke around Charlottesville, Virginia, located along the foothills of the Blue Mountains. What I discovered was an array of activities and attractions to appeal to a wide range of interests.

Because I had but three days to explore, I was forced to use my time wisely, so I made it a point to hit the hot spots. What I walked away with was a new appreciation for the area and its rich history.

Staying in the Heart of the Action
If convenience is high on your list of priorities, you can't go wrong by booking a stay in the historic district at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville, located just 20 minutes away from the Charlottesville airport and steps away from The Downtown Mall.

The 205-room hotel has been named the "Number 1 Hotel in Charlottesville," by the Daily Progress and features a seven-story glass atrium, two pools (indoor and outdoor), a fitness center, coffee shop and an onsite restaurant (The Pointe), which I highly recommend. I'll allow the picture below to speak for itself.
Omni
Our room at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville.
Not to put you to sleep, but one thing that impressed me the most was the bed, which had me at zzzz. I couldn't get over how comfortable it was. Usually, I sleep like a baby, meaning that I toss, turn and whine. Not here. I felt cradled in comfort and was out like a light in short order. I'll probably be comparing that bed to all others for a very long time.
meal
A delicious dinner done just right at The Pointe, Omni's onsite restaurant.
A Shopper's Paradise
It's not often anymore that you can walk out the front door of your room and find yourself in the middle of an outdoor mall, but that's what you'll find just a few steps from the front door of the Omni. The Downtown Mall is a shopper's paradise, with independent shops for blocks. Should you grow tired of spending all that money and need to take a rest, there are plenty of eateries along the way offering dining, either indoors, or al fresco. To me, that's just icing on the cake.
nook
This little throwback dates to 1951. I love the mid-century modern windows.

al fresco
The Nook offers dining both inside and outside.

books
The New Dominion Book Shop is one of the oldest businesses located at the Downtown Mall.

buskers
Buskers play for college money.

mall
A view from the second story of a bar overlooking the mall. The Widow's Sons' Masonic Lodge #60 can be seen in this picture. Chartered in 1799, it is one of the oldest Masonic Lodges in Virginia.


amusement ride
A child's carousel dates back to the early 1900s.

couch
A mosaic couch in front of one of the gift shops.

dining
Outdoor dining areas fill up quickly during the evening hours.
dining

One shop that caught my eye was Timberlake's pharmacy and when I saw it was established in 1890, I just had to wander inside to check it out.

drug store
Timberlake Drugs was established in 1890.
drugs
Perfume, pies and pills are just a few of the items available at Timberlake's.
Timberlake's offers solutions for what ails you and more and what woman can resist a stop at a drug store while on vacation? Maybe I'm just weird like that, but there always seems to be something interesting to be found in an out-of-town drugstore. In this case, their selection of merchandise ran the gamut, from pies, to barrettes, shampoo, aspirin and canes. A rather extensive selection of perfume will have you harkening back on quasi-feminist ditties like this one hawking a scent called Enjoli, which, believe it or not, is still around: "She could bring home the bacon, fry it up in a pan, and never, ever, let you forget you're a man...."

Enjoli

Venture further back and you'll see a quaint space that will transport you to an era when soda fountains were prevalent inside pharmacies due to the common practice of mixing soda water with medicine. The one at Timberlake's has withstood the test of time and still draws its fair share of "regulars," who socialize while sipping on made-to-order drinks like egg creams and milkshakes. Proudly displayed on the wall are old newspaper articles that have been penned about the place over the years. In one article, the writer casually mentions customers ordering ammonia cokes up until the 1980s. Later research revealed "spirits of ammonia" was actually added to the coke and the drink was said to alleviate the side effects of a night on the town. Could it be the gentleman in the story knew where to go to nurse a hangover? I guess we'll never know. I do, know, however, that the place holds a soft spot in the heart of many as one of the oldest businesses in Charlottesville.

historic soda fountain
Step inside Timberlake's soda fountain for a BLT, a coke (sans ammonia) and a side of nostalgia.
The Downtown Mall is also home to Charlottesville's Paramount Theater, created by Rapp & Rapp, the architects who were responsible for the Paramount-Publix theater chain. According to reports, the theater became a landmark almost immediately upon opening on Thanksgiving evening in 1931.  In its heyday, audiences who flocked to the venue week after week numbered in the thousands, but with the advent of television, theaters began to lose their attraction. The Paramount managed to maintain a downtown presence until 1974, when it was forced to shut down. Years later it re-opened, thanks to the grit and determination of those who loved the old mainstay. In 1992, the non-profit Paramount Theater, Inc., purchased the building and worked with a grant from the city on an extensive restoration project costing upwards of $16 million. Today it serves the community as a performing arts center.
theater
The Paramount Theatre operated from 1931-1974, then re-opened again in 2004.
popcorn counter
The popcorn counter at The Paramount Theater.

theater entrance
A separate side entrance is a reminder of the days of segregation.
Before we left the downtown area, we decided to dine at a modern-day speakeasy called The Alley Light, which we had trouble finding. After walking up and down the street several times, we enlisted the help of a friendly local, who steered us in the right direction. (Hint: It was through a gate, off the street and appeared to be a private back entrance to a business.)

While we were there we enjoyed a few small plates and creative libations like "Brunch at Becky's" made with Tanqueray, lime, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse. We even spotted a bride and groom from our perch near a window overlooking the street.

speakeasy
Finding the Alley Light is a little difficult--perhaps that's part of the allure?
drink
Brunch at Becky's made with Tanqueray, summer herbs, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse.
The Downtown Mall is a special destination that should be part of any trip to Charlottesville. So what did it take to create the popular area that draws locals and out-of-towners alike? Click on this link to learn about the evolution of the mall and the personalities and pioneers who joined together to make it what it is today.

Visiting Historic Monticello 
statue

Charlottesville is also the location of Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson, who is best known as the author of the Declaration of Independence. Jefferson spent decades in politics, serving as governor of Virginia,  minister to France, the first U.S. Secretary of State, the second Vice President, the third President of the United States and the founder of the University of Virginia.

Today Monticello exists as an educational destination operated by the non-profit "Thomas Jefferson Foundation," which acquired the property in 1923.  Approximately 440,000 visitors stroll the grounds each year, generating an estimated $47 million for the local economy.

Guests have the opportunity to choose from docent-led and self-guided tours of the interior and exterior of the property. Tours of the first floor of the 43-room mansion are conducted year round. Behind-the-scene tours are offered less frequently and offer guests a peek at the second and third floors, along with the dome room. Interior photography is prohibited, so I am providing this link for those who are interested in viewing gallery pictures of various rooms inside the mansion.

A tour of the garden and grounds gives guests a glimpse of Jefferson's enthusiasm for gardening, botany and agriculture. Visitors will see a colorful array of flowers and plants from around the world and learn that Jefferson grew approximately 300 varieties of vegetables and 170 varieties of fruits ranging from apples, to peaches and grapes, to name just a few.
gardens
Views of the property.

vista
"As Love Lies Bleeding"
"As Love Lies Bleeding."
vine
Cypress Vine
Also offered year round are 45-minute "Slavery at Monticello" tours, where visitors will learn more about the individuals who worked on the property at the time. An additional tour spanning almost two hours provides guests with in-depth information on the Hemings Family and includes information on Sally Hemings, her relationship to Thomas Jefferson and the struggles endured by slaves of the era. To learn more about "The Paradox of Liberty, Enslaved Families of Monticello," click on this link.

cabin
A servant's house reconstructed to reflect the era between 1790 and 1830.

kitchen
The Cook's Room was occupied by Monticello's head cook.

ice house
The Icehouse was used to store meat and butter and for chilling wine. It was packed with insulated wood chips, or straw.
Thomas Jefferson was also known as an oenophile. While serving in Paris as minister to France, he gleaned quite a bit of knowledge about wine. This later enabled him to act in an advisory capacity to Washington, Madison and Monroe. His cellar contained an impressive selection of wines from Portugal, Spain, Hungary, Germany and Italy. It is said he preferred bottles over casks to ensure the integrity of the wine during the shipping process. It appeared that he was a bit cynical when it came to crewmen, wine merchants and adulteration. (That is, as they say, a whole 'nother story). Thomas Jefferson was known to have said this about his beloved beverage. "My measure is a perfectly sober three or four glasses at dinner and not a drop at  any other time, but as to those three or four glasses,'Je Suis bien friand,'" which, translated, means, "I am very fond."


wine
Jefferson's wine cellar included an impressive selection of European wines. 

casks
Jefferson preferred bottles over casks to ensure their integrity during shipping.
Before leaving the property, be sure to take the path to Jefferson's Grave and the graveyard owned by Thomas Jefferson's descendants.
gate


graveyard
The Monticello Graveyard.
graveyard
A list of individuals who are buried at the Graveyard
monument
Jefferson's monument.

As a result of Jefferson's meticulous record keeping, Monticello is known as one of the best-documented, preserved and studied plantations in North America.  To learn more about this designated World Heritage Site, or to schedule a tour, visit the website at monticello.org.

Michie Tavern Area

sign


Next to Monticello is the historic Michie Tavern, which was established in 1784 by Scotsman William Michie and served as the social center of the community until the mid-1800s when it became a private home and was sold out of the Michie family at an estate auction. In 1927, the abode was purchased by an entrepreneur by the name of Mrs. Mark Henderson. Henderson worked as a partner in her husband's shirt-manufacturing business and decided to move the structure to a more accessible and popular area. The home was dismantled, numbered and moved 17 miles by horse, wagon and truck and today it still draws visitors as a museum that tells a tale of 18-century tavern life.

museum
The outside of the Michie Tavern.
room
Interior rooms at the Michie Tavern.
bedroom

colonial kitchen
Kitchen at the Michie Tavern.
Old Game of Life
A game of Human Life that I found particularly fascinating. If you zoom in, you'll see various individuals like the Hasty Man, the Brute, the Learned Man, etc. I suppose if you embark upon the righteous path, you stand a better chance of winning?
In the 1970s, The Michie Tavern Corporation added additional old outbuildings and today the complex is known as the largest collection of reassembled outbuildings in the country.
"The Ordinary," situated next to the Tavern, serves a buffet lunch year round and is quite popular as you can see by the long line, which is often the case, according to our tour guide. "They serve some delicious fried chicken," she said. The Michie Tavern's Bill of Fare for that particular day was southern fried chicken, cornbread, black-eyed peas, stewed tomatoes, cole slaw, beets, green beans with country ham and peach cobbler.
restaurant
After lunch, many guests take the opportunity to visit the four unique themed shops housed in old, restored cabins.
shoppe
gift shop
The Metal Smith Shop is housed in a cabin that dates back to 1822 and was once located just six miles south of where it stands today. 

mill
Remnants of the Old Mill at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.
jelly
Jellies are just some of the products sold at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.
General Store
The General Store is housed in a Grist Mill dating back to 1797 and offers Virginia-made wines, beer and cider, along with candles, jellies, spreads, gifts and more.


These are just a few highlights of my summer trip to Charlottesville. I understand there is so much more to do and see, from winery tours, to James Monroe's Highland, to hop on/off tours, which I always seem to enjoy.  I haven't even mentioned the world famous and historic University of Virginia and the much-touted  "Corner," which is located on campus and is comprised of an array of shops and restaurants. When I return next year, I'll be sure to provide an update.