Roaming with the Wolves in Lancaster County

You may wonder what this post has to do with "Cheese Plates and Room Service," and I'll admit it is a stretch to say that this fits in with the theme, but  you could consider the Lititz Wolf Sanctuary a hotel for wildlife and instead of cheese plates, frozen turkeys and roadkill tend to be their snack of choice. Plus, there is an historic B&B onsite called "The Speedwell Forge Bed and Breakfast," where you can plan to stay if you visit the Sanctuary, so I suppose I'm not deviating from the theme too much this time. 

Rather than focusing on the onsite B&B however, I've chosen instead to describe the sanctuary due to the unique nature of the place. For those who enjoy wildlife, it's a must-see destination to add to your travel plans if you happen to be poking around Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

The non-profit organization was borne out of love and dedication to the well-being of the wolves that lay claim to the sprawling expanse of land.

Darin Tompkins, caretaker at the sanctuary, tells the story of how it all began, explaining that founder and owner Bill Darlington was fascinated with wolves, allowing several to roam the property until the Pennsylvania Game Commission changed the rules in the 1980's. “They were considered pets, but when the rules changed making it illegal, Bill had to get a license and a permit to keep the animals. He fenced in part of his yard and owned five wolves at the time. Before long, the game commission began calling Bill to see if he could take in others whose owners couldn’t afford the permits, or the fencing, or just simply didn’t want to deal with the animals anymore.”

According to the Pennsylvania Game Commission, due to a bounty that was placed on wolves starting in the late 1600's and continuing through the early 1900's, it's been 100 years since the last wild wolf existed in Pennsylvania.

Darlington certainly had the room to accommodate the wolves on his 120 acres of land, which once operated as a horse and dairy farm in the 1970's. “Until 1993, Bill funded it all himself. He invited friends over and took them on tours. They would spread the word and others would visit. Eventually Darlington established the wolf sanctuary as a non-profit and started doing tours to help with expenses,” said Tompkins.

When Darlington passed in 1998, his daughter Dawn took over and has been running the place with Tompkins ever since. “Since 2007, we’ve made a lot of changes, added new enclosures and revamped old ones to keep up with the changing laws," said Tompkins. Today the wolves roam approximately 30 acres in enclosed areas on the property.

Wolves at the Sanctuary in Lititz

Volunteering at the Wolf Sanctuary

Volunteers come from miles around and do everything from cleaning, to running the gift shop, to conducting tours. Guides stand at the front of each enclosure and feed raw meat to the wolves, who anxiously await their meals, much to the delight of the crowd. Guides engage the public, answering questions and imparting information on life, habits and behavior of the wolves on their property and in the wild. “We try to make it informative and educational,” said Tompkins.

Volunteers who achieve the rank of tour guides must first expend a lot of time and effort. “We require our volunteers to put in 500 hours to be a tour guide,” said Tompkins, adding that few are allowed behind the fences. “I don’t take just anybody in the pens. Volunteers have to learn our routines, know the animals, learn their and be aware of their body language.”

Wolves roam grounds of the Wolf Sanctuary in Lititz, Pa. 

Dennis Binkley has been a tour guide for approximately eight years now. The Lancaster County resident said, “I’ve always had a fascination with wolves and my wife and I went up six or seven years ago and we kept going back, so we signed up as volunteers.” His wife helps run the information center, while Dennis gives tours. “I love talking to people and educating them on the wolves,” he said. Binkley said the wolves aren’t vicious toward humans, but only about 10 of them permit touching. “We can interact with a few we bottle fed as puppies and they will rub against you, but if you reach down to try to touch them, they take off,” he said of the animals.

“Some come once or twice a year, others come quite often,” Tompkins said of the volunteers. “It’s hard to get people to volunteer during the week, which is why our tours are limited to specific days."

Feeding the Wolves

Because one wolf can eat 25-30 pounds of raw meat in one feeding, providing them with enough food can be very expensive, according to Tompkins. “Companies who distribute meat to grocery stores will sometimes bring it to us if the meat has been refused. For instance, once there was a leak and blood was on the boxes, so they called and asked us if we wanted it. People clean out their freezers sometimes and bring us food and sometimes when there is a power outage, people bring us food too. Hunters sometimes give us food as well.” The organization has also been known to receive calls when roadkill is spotted.

Visiting the Sanctuary

Tours are conducted at 10 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays from June through September. “We like to have the tours early before it gets too hot for the wolves,” said Tompkins. From October through May, public tours are held on Saturdays and Sundays starting at noon. Entry fees are $12 per person, $10 for children and $11 for senior citizens.

Tours are also conducted on Tuesdays and Thursdays by appointment.

The Bed and Breakfast, mentioned earlier, also belongs to Darlington and dates back to 1760. Two private cottages are situated on the property and feature eat-in kitchens, whirlpool tubs and fireplaces. The main house features three guest rooms and visitor staying there are permitted to tour the grounds for free.

For more information on the Bed and Breakfast visit Speedwell Forge B&B and to learn more about the Wolf Sanctuary visit at: www.wolfsanctuarypa.org.

Music, Art, Architecture and More in Historic Winchester, Virginia

If you're interested in a change of scenery, Winchester, Virginia is an interesting place to poke around. From my home base in Pennsylvania, it's less than a two-hour drive, so it's a convenient destination for a weekend getaway just to explore.

Fans of music legend Patsy Cline can tour her childhood home from April through October and architecture enthusiasts can download a handy self-guided walking tour of the area. Those interested in the arts can visit a museum containing thousands of artifacts and history buffs can choose from any number of guided tours to learn more about the region.

These are just a few suggestions on what to do and see when visiting the city.

Take a Walking Tour

A handy self-guided walking tour titled, “250 years of History and Architecture” is available online here and will take you on a short walk to 29 different destinations from the Old Frederick County Courthouse, to George Washington’s Office Museum, which served as Washington’s headquarters during the French and Indian attacks. The final destination on the tour will take you to the historic George Washington Hotel built in 1924.

The Old Court House Civil War Museum

An old stone house on Loudoun Street

The George Washington Hotel

Listed among the Historic Hotels of America, the George Washington Hotel is centrally located and convenient to area attractions.

The tidy, five-story brick building was one of the first “fire-proof” hotels to be built in the United States and visited by many luminaries throughout the years, from Bob Hope to Lucille Ball and Betty Crocker, who hosted an apple pie baking contest there as part of the popular Shenandoah Apple Blossom Festival.

In addition to providing comfortable accommodations, the hotel offers visitors a glimpse of historic artifacts displayed in glass cases throughout the property. Other amenities include an onsite restaurant called Georges and live entertainment at the Half -Note Lounge.

Guests of the hotel can relax in an impressive and luxurious Roman-style indoor pool located on the lower level.

Shop and Dine on Loudoun Street

Not far from the George Washington Hotel is Loudoun Street, an outdoor "mall" where tourists can steps inside historic buildings like the Old Court House Civil War Museum and Miller’s Drug Store, known as the "oldest continuing family-run drug store" in America.

Restaurants line the streets, giving visitors ample dining choices and during the warmer months customers gather outside at tables, shielded from the sun by over-sized umbrellas, where they enjoy eating, drinking and people watching.

Shoppers and window shoppers alike will be pleased with the eclectic variety of shops, which offer an array of unique items.

Learn More about Patsy Cline

This year marks the 53rd anniversary of the untimely death of Virginia “Ginny” Patterson Hensley, otherwise known as legendary singer “Patsy Cline,” who met an untimely death at the young age of 30 due to an airplane crash.

Her childhood home is tucked away on a small, residential street in Winchester and is open to visitors from April through October. Located on the National Register of Historic places, the humble abode Cline shared with her mother from 1948-1957 appears how it would have looked when Patsy was growing up there and is furnished with personal items owned by the family. Relatives were consulted to help ensure the authenticity of the decor.

Cline's childhood home on Kent Street in Winchester, Virginia

Guests can view the small living room where she practiced her music, the sewing area where her mother crafted her outfits, the kitchen nook where many a conversation likely took place and the bedrooms where they laid their heads to rest each night.

A bedroom in the Cline house.

The Cline living room.

Volunteers Moe and Bill Hull will be happy to answer any questions you may have about the beloved singer and will even play you a clip of her first-ever professional appearance, circa 1957, where she sang “Walkin’ after Midnight,” on Arthur Godfrey’s Talent Scouts.

A nook in the Cline kitchen provides a view to a large backyard.

A sewing area where Patsy's mom made her outfits.

The 45-minute tours are held from Tuesday through Sunday from April through October. To schedule a tour, click here. 

Visit “Stonewall” Jackson’s Headquarters

Stonewall Jackson's headquarters

Gen. Thomas Jonathan Jackson’s headquarters sits back among other houses in a residential area along a tree-lined street. Those visiting during the warmer months will likely witness neighbors out and about doing landscaping work in the yards of their private homes.

Jackson was known as a fearless soldier who arrived in Winchester in 1861 and set up headquarters at the Taylor Hotel, drawing so much attention that he was offered to use a vacant house on Braddock Street by Lt. Col. Lewis Moore, the great grandfather of actress Mary Tyler Moore.

Today the house showcases much of the original furnishings purchased by Moore in the 1850's, along with personal and professional artifacts of Jackson, many of which were donated by Jackson’s granddaughter.

On display are personal items like his prayer book, his prayer table, a lock of his hair, his death mask and pictures of Jackson’s family.

Docents tell the story of “Stonewall” Jackson while leading visitors through the house and sharing excerpts from his logs. In one particularly interesting log entry, Jackson describes in detail the wallpaper he admired in the room where he worked. This original wallpaper was uncovered during a renovation and Mary Tyler Moore decided to replicate it as close to the original as possible so visitors can get a feel for what Jackson found so striking so many years ago.

The house is open for tours from April 2 to October 31, seven days a week. For more information click here. 

Learn about the Art, History and Culture of the Shenandoah Valley

Museum of the Shenandoah Valley

Open Tuesday through Sunday, the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley provides a glimpse into the arts, history and culture of the region.

Designed by internationally acclaimed architect Michael Graves, the museum showcases more than 11,000 pieces, which make up the permanent collection and includes baskets, ceramics, textiles, furniture and more. Many of the objects can be viewed by online by clicking on this link. 

The Glen Burnie House located on the grounds dates back to the 18th century and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Those who visit during the warmer months can tour six acres of gardens that are open from April through October.

Gardens of the Museum of the Shenandoah Valley (picture courtesy of Judy Watkins, Virginia Tourism Corporation) 

Now that the weather is improving, it's a great time of year to visit the region. Please keep in mind some attractions are closed on Mondays, so be sure to visit the individual websites before making final plans.

Remembering the Milkman

Working as a milkman was often thankless, but those old enough to remember the days of milk delivery often look back with nostalgia on that period of time when life operated at a slower pace.  Folks would begin the day by opening their doors to retrieve bottles of milk, fresh from the farm, just waiting to be enjoyed by adults and children alike.

Kruger milk delivery in horse and carriage

Sweet Recollections

Maryland resident Judy Bach remembers hearing the clinking bottles early in the morning as the milkman arrived at her house and even recalls a certain jingle after all these years, “If you don’t own a cow, call Cloverland now, North 9222,” she said with a chuckle.

One thing that stands out in Dennis Royer’s mind is a little mischief he engaged in back in those days. The Perry county resident said, “My mother always left a note in the milk box on our front porch with our order. Once I got into trouble by imitating her printing and adding one quart of chocolate milk to the bottom of the note.” He also recalls the bottles being used for something other than milk. “The opening of those returnable bottles was about one- inch wide. At kiddie birthday parties we used to play a game to see who could drop the most old-style clothes pins into those bottles by holding the clothes pins at waist height.”

Pat Fallon, who currently lives in Catasauqua, said, “My grandmother lived in an old, but well-maintained, four-floor apartment building in Scranton. There were two apartments per floor, with a common stairwell in the center. I can still remember hearing the clinking of the glass milk bottles as the milkman went up and down the stairs leaving cold bottles of milk on the back porches. Everyone used to have a little milk box by their back door. The bottles of milk had a small round cardboard lid that fit snug just down in the top of the glass bottle; you pulled up with a little tab in the center to pry it open. The bottles were smooth, curved glass, but they were easy to handle and pour as they were not that big in diameter and fit in your hand. I think they had an emblem engraved in them instead of a paper label.”

Old milk bottles, courtesy of the East Pennsboro Historical Society

Starting a Successful Milk Delivery Business

According to most accounts, milk delivery began in the 1800s, when milkmen traveled by wagon, with cans full of the product, which they ladled out with dippers into customer-provided containers.

Carlisle resident Charles Kruger, now in his mid-80s, tells how milk not only nourished his family physically, but provided for them financially as well. “Sometime around 1916 or 1917, my mother made a deal with this farmer to bring his milk in and she would peddle it. Those days they used buckets, crocks, jars--whatever customers brought to hold the milk. Kids would pull the express wagon with the can of milk on it.

My dad was a railroader and he got hurt, so he had to quit and do other things. During WWI, they conscripted the railroad guys to haul equipment to the seaports, so dad returned to the railroad. At that time, my mom sold milk off her wagon. When the war was over, all the railroad guys got their jobs back, so my dad was bumped. He said, ‘mother, how we gonna make a living?’ She said, ‘well, this milk business isn’t so bad,’ so dad bought a horse and wagon and started to peddle milk,” he said.

Kruger said his father would visit a local farm after the twice-a-day milking. “He started to cool the milk in an ice bath and stirred it until it was cold. What he was doing was stopping the growth of bacteria because most people’s milk was sour in the morning as it curdled overnight,” he said, adding that his dad’s milk became popular because it would last several days. “They thought we were putting something in it,” he said with a laugh.

Before homogenization, customers would have to shake the milk to distribute the cream evenly. Kids, in particular, used to enjoy the cream that would rise to the top. “In the winter, when the milk froze, it would pop up the cap and the first kid out the door would get the cream ball,” said Kruger. 

The Plights of the Profession

As milk delivery became increasingly popular, the milkmen of yore contended with problems unique to the profession. An article in the San Francisco Chronicle, dated September 6, 1902, said, “He comes and goes like a shadow in the early dawn, communicated with, if at all, by means of notes, which he has to strike a match to read.” It continues with tales of beleaguered milkmen who were vexed with a litany of issues. Inspectors would halt them on the street and subject their milk to a lactometer test, forcing those who failed to dump their product out on the streets, or into the marshes. Thieving competitors, who would run short on their own routes, might swipe a few bottles from another’s porch delivery. 

The article suggests there was a time when milkmen held keys to residences. “He is baffled by bunches of keys for which he must select one for every door along his route.”

Until delivery trucks arrived on the scene, another challenge milkmen faced was training the horses where to stop along the route. “We had horses until 1939 on two routes,” said Kruger. “They were later replaced by a specialized Diamond T Pack-Age Car, which was open on both sides. Often the helpers on the trucks would run out both sides at the same time.” 

Other problems revolved around the milk bottles themselves--from the lazy customer who refused to wash them, to the careless ones who forgot to return them and the unscrupulous scofflaws who had other ideas for their use.   

Milkmen often returned from their routes short many a bottle. One reported catching a customer preserving fruits in his bottles and sharing a laugh with her about it, only to return later with helpers to recapture the stolen bottles.  Needless to say, he wasn’t invited back. Many a milkman may have welcomed the advent of “returnable bottles,” which gave customers a financial incentive to “remember” to relinquish them.

The onset of the war brought even further challenges to the milkmen. “They were trying to conserve fuel, so delivery was reduced to every other day,” said Kruger. “Our competitors found this out and used it against us, delivering on the off days, so instead of a family ordering four quarts from us, they’d order two from us and two from the other guy,” he said.

Before insulated porch boxes were used, sunlight would oxidize milk left on the doorstep. Kruger tells the story of how a local glass company made an error on a large lot of amber bottles. “We got a heck of a deal on a bunch of them,” he said, adding that they just labeled over the problem. The dark protected the milk from the sunlight, providing his company with a competitive edge. “We marketed it as more wholesome,” said Kruger.

Old four-inch-high creamers, courtesy of the East Pennsboro Historical Society

The End of an Era?

As time passed, so did the need for the milkman.  Refrigerators reduced the need for frequent deliveries and many families purchased second cars so any spouse could drive to the supermarket whenever the need arose. Soon dairies like Kruger’s began to merge in order to stay in business.

The age of milk delivery reached its nadir near the 1970's, although some businesses continued the practice years later.

Today milk delivery is more of a novelty, although a search on the internet proves that it’s still taking place.  Here in Central Pennsylvania, a business called Mr. Milkman touts home delivery in Cumberland, Dauphin, York and surrounding counties. Does this prove that what’s old is new again and that there’s a modern market for the days of old? Only time will tell, but for now there will always be those who long for the good old days when the cream would always rise to the top.

Exploring Cozumel

During the last leg of our 2016 Flower Power Cruise, we docked in Cozumel, an island in the Caribbean off the eastern coast of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. To make the most of the few hours available, we purchased "The Best of Cozumel" tour package from the cruise line and hit the ground running. 

Duty-free shops offering liquor, jewelry and souvenirs were directly located at the end of the pier and we took a few minutes to browse among the many selections before climbing aboard a van that whisked us away to our first stop, "Discover Mexico." 

A visit to "Discover Mexico" starts with a short film portraying the Mexican people, their culture, crafts and countryside. Afterwards, visitors stroll through a small arts and crafts museum. This particular sculpture is known as a "Tree of Life." Such modeled clay sculptures originated in the colonial period as a way for Spanish friars to teach the biblical story of creation to the native population. They later included non-biblical representations. This one is covered in Monarch butterflies, which are known for their annual winter migration to a remote spot in Mexico. 

"Tree of Life"

Seen here is sand art titled "Our Lady of Guadalupe" and an attractive folk art trunk.

Our Lady of Guadalupe Sand Sculpture

Folk art trunk

As we made our way outside to the park and walked the grounds, we encountered miniature representations of various Mexican landmarks, like the Great Pyramid of Cholula. Located four miles west of Puebla, it is the largest man-made structure in the world by volume. Dating back to 300 BC, the structure was built in six stages, with the Oto-Manguean as the original architects. In 600 AD, the Oto-Manguean were conquered by the Olmeca-Xicallana, who added another layer to the pyramid. Between 900 and 1300 AD, they, too, were conquered and the Toltecs added more layers. Finally, when the Aztecs conquered the city, the inhabitants fled and it fell into ruin.  

When archaeologists tunneled into the the pyramid, they discovered the remains of 400 sacrificial victims, many of whom were children of both sexes. 

The Great Pyramid of Cholula

Another miniature site included Palenque's Temple of the Inscriptions. Founded around 2,200 years ago, the pre-Columbian city of Palenque is located in the Mexican state of Chiapas. The Temple of the Inscriptions was built as a tomb for K'inich Janaab' who was known as one of the city's great leaders. It is said to be decorated with some of the most detailed inscriptions in Mayan glyphs ever discovered, giving an account of rulers and their accomplishments.

Palenque's Temple of the Inscriptions

The old village of Miguel de Xamancab

This gentleman was making customized bracelets with thread in record time at the park.

After viewing to-scale replicas, we were treated to this daredevil exhibition before boarding the van to the Mayan Cacao Company. (The full video can be seen on the Cheese Plates and Room Service Facebook site since blogger wouldn't allow it here.)

The "Discover Mexico" park tour finale.

At the Mayan Cacao Company we learned a little more about the history of chocolate and its roots in  the Mayan culture. Afterwards, we participated in a chocolate tasting and were served an authentic mole on a tortilla crafted onsite. My husband, meanwhile, sneaked off to snap pictures of birds he discovered on the property.

The Mayan Cacao Company offers tastings, demonstrations and products at their gift shop.

A chocolate-making demonstration. 

Birds cozy up on the premises of the Mayan Cacao Company.

Next, we were off  to what was once the capital of Cozumel. El Cidral is a small village and is home to the oldest Mayan Ruins on the island, dating back to 800 AD. Here a warrior guards the ruins and tourists pay for pictures. 

"Mayan Warrior" guards the ruins.

During our time in El Cidral, we browsed some of the souvenir shops and I purchased a pair of silver earrings for a very reasonable price, but of course bartering is de rigueur in El Cidral and the shopkeeper accepted my first offer. Afterwards, she followed me around urging me to buy more before hustling me over to her brother's tequila shop. I learned later that a few people have had issues with some heavy handedness of some of the merchants and that it's better to visit El Cidral as part of a tour group than trying to "wing" it on your own. We escaped to join our scheduled tequila tasting at the Hacienda Tequila Museum just a few doors down.

There we learned a little about the history of tequila and gathered around to try five different types of the beverage made from the blue agave plant. I am not a fan of tequila, but I enjoyed all of the samples--go figure. Perhaps it was the setting and the fact that I was on vacation. I left before any of the salespeople spotted me and learned later the prices on the tequila were quite high.

Let the tequila tasting commence

Before we boarded the van to our next stop on the island, we stepped inside the first Catholic church built on Cozumel. Located up on a hill near the small ruins, the chapel is open for visitors and we had the place to ourselves as we strolled around taking pictures.

Inside the first Catholic Church erected in Cozumel.

Our tour van traveled along the eastern shore of the island for a brief stop at the beautiful El Mirador beach where we had just enough time to snap a few scenes and spot a bride posing for wedding pictures.

Scenes from El Mirador beach

After strolling the beach for 15 minutes, it was time to head to our next destination. My heart-rock-collecting friend asked me to find her one for her collection while visiting Cozumel, so we had to scour the beach in record time. I didn't think I did too bad with this one.

Our final tour stop was San Miguel, where we enjoyed lunch at Pancho's Backyard , an attractively appointed restaurant where we snacked on a sampler platter of typical Mexican fare.  Afterward, we browsed the large gift shop located in the front of the restaurant and stocked with a wide variety of Mexican products.

A picture taken from our seat through the windows of Pancho's Backyard.

On the way back to the ship, I viewed San Miguel from the windows of the van and wished they would have allowed us more time to walk the streets, stroll along the wide sidewalks next to the seawall, or peer inside the shops and galleries, but the clock was ticking and the ship was waiting. Perhaps another time.

Although it was a whirlwind tour, it was a lot of fun and I felt like now we have a good sense of where we should spend more time should we decide to return.