Not-So-Hidden Gems in Historic Lewisburg

Copper Beech Manor

The upside of living in Central Pennsylvania is that it's within driving distance of so many destinations. The downside is that the winters sometimes seem interminable, which leaves a six-month window to sightsee, unless you feel like contending with Mother Nature pitching a fit and stomping all over the best-laid plans. It doesn't help that most museums and other attractions are open from May through October. When you factor in the weekly obligations that often take precedence over wayfaring, you start to realize just how precious those free weekends are.  This past Saturday I was able to find time to visit the Lewisburg area. I had to return home Sunday morning for a graduation party, so I fit in everything I could during my short, but substantive stay.

What first attracted me to the small town was the annual icefest held in February--a delightful celebration intended to boost business and at the same time nudge us over that winter-doldrum hump. You can read more about it here in an article written by my friend Tricia Kline. When I laid eyes on the cute shops, elegant B&Bs, attractive neighborhoods and diverse restaurants, I knew a return visit was in order. I scheduled my visit during Memorial Day weekend, when I knew the town wouldn't be quite so busy. Students had graduated the week before and fighting the crowds wasn't an issue this time.

First Stop--An Historic Hotel

The Lewisburg Hotel is located in downtown Lewisburg at the corner of Market and Second Streets

The Lewisburg Hotel, once known as the Kline's Hotel, has the distinction of being the longest-lived hotel in the area. Dating back to 1834, its proximity to the Pennsylvania Canal, the Old East-West Turnpike and two major railroads, made it a convenient stop for generations of travelers. By 1992, the weathered mainstay was feeling its age. It was clear to observers that the well-worn destination with the good bones was overdue for a renovation, so in stepped Norman and Nancy Buck to help bring it back to its former glory. In 1997, the hotel reopened and today is owned and operated by Dale Walize, who has been with the hotel for many years. Walize took over operations in November, after Norm's sudden passing.

Walize knew Norm well and said that part of his vision was to bring the historic hotel back to the way it appeared in the days of yore. Walking into the lobby is like stepping back in time when craftsman used woodwork as an eye-catching focal point. Guests can't help but be impressed with the attractive coffered ceilings, the original check-in desk and the tall wooden phone booth that is situated in the corner and an oft-discussed conversation piece.  

As for the elevator--I've decided against spoiling the surprise. Let's just say that the Lewisburg Hotel put the elegance in elevator. If you visit, be sure to check it out.

Over the years, the hotel has seen its share of august dignitaries. In addition to being home to the first president of The Victorian University of Lewisburg, (later known as Bucknell), every Pennsylvania governor from 1831-1901 was said to have been a guest at one time or another (and not always in August).

Views of the room decor in the Lewisburg Hotel

Today the business serves the community as a meeting place, hotel, motel and bar. Guests can choose from casual dining in the Cameron Bar, or fine dining with a side of Victorian ambiance in the Governor's room located on the first floor.

Take a peak behind the elevator doors when you visit.

The patio outside features live music during the warmer months and Tuesday's "Grillin' and Chillin' on the Patio" is an area favorite.

Before you leave the building, be sure to take a look across the street where you'll see another handsome, old structure by the name of the Lewisburg Club.

The Lewisburg Club--a community hub

The Lewisburg Club started out as a simple, brick residence built sometime between 1800 and 1814. The building was later sold to Rebecca and Joseph Nesbit who are responsible for transforming it into the beautiful brownstone you see in the picture, done in the Richardsonian Romanesque style. In 1911, the couple sold it to the Lewisburg Club, which continues to use it for community activities.

A Stately, Comfortable Bed and Breakfast 
Our second stop was to check in at the beautiful Copper Beech Manor, named for a Rohan Copper Beech tree located at the rear of the property known to be approximately 125 years old.

Owners Linda and Bill Petry lovingly care for the Federal Style Manor, which dates back to 1857 and was built by Jonathan Nesbit, who also built the First Presbyterian church (located across the street) and Christ's Lutheran church, located on Third Street. In 1861, Nesbit built an addition on the house and according to local lore, a hidden room on the third floor sheltered slaves on their way to freedom on the Underground Railroad.

View from the second floor

Breakfast room

Parlor

Sitting room

The home has four, original working fireplaces that have been converted to gas and four large, first-floor public rooms. Breakfast is served every morning.

Breakfast fruit

A beautiful, winding staircase leads guests to five, comfortable guest rooms located on the second floor. Our cheery room was not only comfortable, but quiet and conducive to a good night's sleep. Bill and Linda spent many hours renovating the house and they recount the story of their journey in a book they've made available to guests, so be on the lookout for that as well. The hospitable couple are warm, welcoming and eager to assist visitors in making the most of their visit to Lewisburg.

The 1857 room, named for the year the home Copper Beech Manor was built

At the end of the evening, many guests take the opportunity to relax in a lovely sitting area in view of a Koi pond to enjoy the tranquil surroundings.

The Koi pond located in the rear of Copper Beech Manor

Patio at Copper Beech Manor

 Visiting a Neighborhood Jewel

The Campus Theatre marquee

Art Deco became all the rage just before World War I. Representing glamour and modernism, it influenced the design of everything from architecture to fashion and furniture. The Campus Theatre, which debuted in 1941, was done in the popular style that began to wane with the onset of WWII. Shortly after the Campus Theatre was designed, it could be said that the once-popular style was falling out of fashion. Today the theatre is appreciated and treasured as one of the few remaining art-deco movie houses in the country.

Courtesy of the Campus Theatre

Courtesy of the Campus Theatre

Courtesy of the Campus Theatre

Entrance to the Campus Theatre

Situated at 413 Market Street, the Campus Theatre was designed by Philadelphia architect David Supowitz and built by a Russian immigrant by the name of Oscar Stiefel. Oscar opened his first movie theatre in Philadelphia and soon business was booming, so he enlisted his brothers Harold, Barney and Morris to lend a hand. The Stiefel brothers would eventually operate 11 theatres in Pennsylvania. Those closer to South Central Pennsylvania may be interested to learn that Steifel owned The Roxy in Ephrata, which was destroyed by fire in 1955. 

In 1953, Morris' son Harold Stiefel took over the Lewisburg theatre and managed it with his wife Jacquie until he passed in 1988. The couple was dedicated to the Lewisburg community and are greatly missed. Many of their outreach programs exist to this day. In 2001, the Campus Theatre transitioned into a non-profit organization and in 2004 underwent a major restoration. "The Jewel of Market Street" partnered with nearby Bucknell University in 2011, when the college assumed ownership of the building. Both entities are dedicated to preserving and promoting this historic landmark. 

Free family films are shown every Tuesday during the summer and on Saturday the BYOB night draws quite the crowd. To learn more about what's playing and when, click on the monthly schedule here.

Shops Galore

Marc Williams Goldsmith has been creating handcrafted jewelry for more than 35 years.

There's no dearth of shopping opportunities in Lewisburg, from ladies fashions and accessories, to antiques and more. Some old mainstays are housed in buildings with mid-century modern charm (like the one above), while others tout more contemporary storefronts and cater to the college crowd offering a selection of the latest styles and apparel.

One of the many women's shops in downtown Lewisburg

"The Famous Street of Shops" at 100 North Water Street is a favorite of shoppers both near and far.  Once used as a woolen mill, it now touts 375 shops and a lower-level flea market. A restaurant located on the main floor offers customers the opportunity to grab a bite in between browsing.

Scenes from the House of Retro in the Street of Shops

Not far away from the Street of Shops is the "Roller Mills Marketplace" located at 517 Saint Mary Street. Roller Mills dates back to 1883 and was originally constructed as a flour mill, with product that was sold under the brand name "Oriole." For the past 20 years, customers have been rising to the occasion to visit the business which spans three floors and 60,000 square feet.

The Street of Shops touts 375 shops in a restored, historic woolen mill

Another shot inside the Street of Shops

Just one of the many unique items you'll find in Lewisburg--this was spotted at the Roller Mills

This little beauty will cost you $2800. Keep an eye out for my story in June 2018 issue in theburgnews.com and see what happened to a few Harrisburg horses.

Cuddle a Cat if You Please

Heck, you can even shop for a cat in downtown Lewisburg. If I hadn't just adopted my second terrorist, err, kitten, I'd likely be heading home with one of these little cuties. Whether you're in the market, or not, for $5 an hour, the Scratching Post Cafe permits people to cuddle and play to their hearts content and perhaps find it in that heart to adopt one of these furry felines.

And talk about coincidences--one of the very sweet and helpful staff members shares a name with me--her first name is Kalina, which is my maiden name. She informed me that the rather chubby girl in the last picture below has a reputation as being a bit of a treat hog.

Play all day at the cat cafe

This one reminds me of Frankie

The guardian of the treat galaxy

A Delicious Dinner at Brasserie Louis
Did I mention that we managed to see a lot in one afternoon? By now it was time for dinner at Brasserie Louis, which, at 101 Market Street, was just a short walk from our B&B. 

Brasserie Louis--exterior

Brasserie Louis--interior

A delicious salad was the prelude to a wonderful selection of small plates at Brasserie Louis.

Once again, we found ourselves admiring the old woodwork in yet another historic building. Brasserie Louis dates back to 1825 and once served as The Lewisburg Inn. It was the home of James Fleming Linn, whose two sons were authors and historians. The house was equipped with a water tank stored in the attic, which supplied the first running water in a home in Lewisburg.


Today it serves the community as an attractive restaurant and tavern that features not only delicious food, but inventive libations. After dinner, consider relaxing with a Vesper (gin, vodka, lillet) in the inviting bar area (featuring more stunning woodwork). Chances are you'll have the opportunity to enjoy the talented vocals of local resident Billy Kelly.

Street Views
Before I wrap up this blog post, I will leave you with a few street views. I hope to publish a later post on a "Walking Tour of Lewisburg," with additional pictures and a few details on each building. Enjoy.

Can you believe this is a police station? Neither could I.

Susquehanna Life Magazine--where my articles sometimes appear

Bucknell University offices

Exploring Historic West Chester

Several weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit downtown West Chester, Pa not just for a change of scenery, (which I enjoy every month or two), but also to learn more about the history of the area.

I learned that the borough of West Chester has been known as a haven for hospitality since the 1760s when Phineas Eachus was licensed to build a tavern in the area. Today it's a growing region that is drawing increasing interest from out-of-towners seeking a getaway.

Shoppers, history buffs, foodies and art enthusiasts will all likely find something enchanting in the walkable little town.

Upscale Accommodations in a Renovated Theatre

The West Chester downtown historic district earned a place on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 with its impressive number of structures built between 1789 and the 1930s and the centrally located family owned and operated Hotel Warner, is just one of them.

The lobby of the Hotel Warner features the original theater staircase.

A floor-to-ceiling photo hangs in the lobby to give guests a glimpse into the days of yore.

The hotel welcomes guests today with 80 comfortable rooms and amenities like free wi-fi, an indoor pool, a free breakfast buffet, and a workout room, but the structure was once home to a state-of-the-art theater that was renown for its over-the-top grandeur. This both enthralled and confused the local community sending the rumor mill into overdrive with speculation that it was all a big mistake and that the theater was intended for West Chester, New York, rather than West Chester, Pennsylvania.

The outside of the Hotel Warner as viewed from the top of the Chestnut Street garage.

Local Eateries 

Downtown West Chester is replete with eateries within walking distance of the Warner Hotel, some continuing in the tradition of repurposing that which once was.

For example, Restaurant 51 is a fine example of an old-firehouse-turned-hip eating establishment. Located at 30 N. Church Street, the eatery has been popular with the locals since opening in February. The spacious interior decor, with its exposed brick, ductwork and Edison lights can be described as "industrial chic."

For many, it is a gathering place to root for their favorite team, or just to knock back a few, grab a bite and socialize. The menu features casual fare like burgers, fries, soups, salads and entrees like chicken parmesan and fish and chips, with rotating craft brews, select wines and specialty cocktails rounding out the menu.

Restaurant 51 Tap & Spirit

The front of the Iron Hill Brewery, which was once home to a Woolworth's.

Another popular area restaurant is the Iron Hill Brewery located at 3 Gay Street, where you'll find handcrafted beer served in a casual atmosphere. Both my husband and I decided to grab lunch there and we were not disappointed. I ordered the "Zeus Burger," which is named after the Greek god to highlight the Greece-inspired ingredients. All I know is that its good I don't live closer, or the New Years' diet resolutions would be out the window. The combination of lamb and beef was perfectly matched with cucumber, onion and feta. Add to that the crowning touches of garlic aioli and herb sauce and pile the entire shooting match on a brioche bun and there you have a cravable dish.

Inside of the dining room of the Iron Hill Brewery. 

In front of the Iron Hill Brewery

My husband was equally pleased with his selection--the "Grilled Brewben." The corned beef/swiss cheese sandwich topped with bacon beer kraut and thousand island dressing was served on marble rye. Mike described it as the "best Reuben he ever had." (That's saying something since I've witnessed him consume an untold number throughout the years.)

The Grilled "Brewben."

The "Zeus Burger" served with delicious homemade chips; I want another.

Architectural Walking Tours

With so many historic structures looming large in West Chester, it would be a pity to stroll by and guess at their provenance, so that's why Malcolm Johnstone makes himself available to those who are interested. Johnstone, history buff extraordinaire, tailors tours to time and interest and can be reached at mjohnstone@wcbid.com.

One notable building guests will learn about on Johnstone's tour is located near the Chester County Historical Society. Horticultural Hall is known as the last West Chester commission of renowned architect Thomas U.Walter before he oversaw construction of the dome atop the U.S. Capitol. Walter used serpentine stone--a limestone extracted from the Taylor Quarry north of West Chester. Once guests learn about the limestone, they then recognize other buildings around town that also contain the green-hued stone.

Horticultural Hall

The historic post office.

Another interesting structure is the historic post office, located at 101 E. Gay Street. The federal building was erected during a time when James Knox Taylor served as the supervising Architect of the Treasury at the turn of the 20th century. He believed that government buildings should be monumental, beautiful and constructed of the highest quality materials.

The post office was built in two phases, with construction starting in 1907 and then resuming in 1935. Cockeysville Marble that was quarried at Baker's Station nearly 18 miles away was used in the construction and is said to glitter in the sunlight. I visited on a cloudy day, unfortunately.

The William Darlington Building seen below and built in 1789 is considered the oldest surviving First Period structure and is dedicated to William Darlington, considered one of the fathers of West Chester. Darlington was an educator, botanist, banker and politician, who lived and worked at this location during most of his career.

The William Darlington Building located at 13 North High Street.

This picture of William Darlington hangs in the local historical society.

Other historic buildings include the Chester County Courthouse, built in 1848 and the First Bank of Chester County built in 1837. Now owned by Wells Fargo, the First Bank building is the oldest commercial structure in West Chester operating in the capacity for which it was built. It's a fine example of Greek Revival and is one of the reasons why West Chester earned the nickname the Athens of Pennsylvania. If you visit, you can step onto the portico and look towards the ceiling to see the inscription by the architect, who must have been proud of his work. Engraved into the stone is his name: Thomas U. Walter

The West Chester Courthouse built in 1848

First Bank of Chester County built in 1837, now occupied by Wells Fargo.

Thomas U. Walter added his name to the structure.

Visiting the Chester County Historical Society
The Chester County Historical Society located at 225 North High Street is home to a research library of rare documents, photographs and newspapers spanning a period of 300 years. The Society hosts a variety of youth programs and features rotating exhibits.

The Chester County Historical Society

From now through December, guests can view the artwork of Adrian Martinez, who brings history to life with his exhibit titled, "The Visionary World of Humphry Marshall 1750-1800." The talented artist, who hails from D.C., tells the story of Chester County native Humphry Marshall, who is now viewed as a "renaissance man." Marshall used his talents working as a stonemason, farmer, astronomer, botanist and chemist, to name a few. Martinez describes Marshall as a "curious man," not unlike Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. In his exhibit, Martinez depicts Marshall and the people around him as he imagines them to be, while, at the same time crediting another West Chester notable, William Darlington, who recognized that men such as Marshall should not be forgotten.

Susannah Wright confers with Deborah Norris Logan 

Artist Andrian Martinez poses with his painting: Downings' Town, which depicts the peaceful aspirations of Quakers against the reality of war.  

A Nice Variety of Shops

West Chester is home to an eclectic mix of shops and visitors can spend hours browsing among all 75.  For foodies, I recommend a visit to Carlinos--a market that sells a wide array of sweets, cheeses, olives, meats, pasta and other artisan creations designed to make your mouth water. 

The olive bar at Carlinos. 

Chocolate aficionados won't want to miss Eclat, located at 24 S. High. Christopher Curtin pulls out all the stops to ensure that he provides his clientele with the highest quality chocolate available. The Master Chocolatier honed his skills at some of the finest chocolate houses in the world, from France, to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland and Japan.  I recommend trying the lavender caramels and one of their unique "parallel bars," like the one shown here flavored with green tea and roasted rice.

Curtin has worked with Anthony Bourdain and his chocolates have been recognized by Bon Appetit as some of the "Best Chocolates in America." He has appeared on CNN's "Parts Unknown," with Anthony Bourdain (Peru episode). He collaborated with Bourdain and chef Eric Ripert to create "Good & Evil," a chocolate bar embedded with nibs and crafted from dark Peruvian Pure Nacional chocolate that grows wild and was thought to be extinct.

A few of the chocolate selections available at Eclat. 

West Chester isn't just for foodies. The many retail boutiques offer a wide selection of apparel, gifts, art and collectibles. As a matter of fact, West Chester was recently voted "Best New Shopping District" by Philadelphia Magazine and Frommers recognized it as one of the top 10 Best Small-town downtowns.

Book lovers in search of a bargain can generally bank on finding something of interest at Second Reading Book Store at 32 N. Church Street. The small shop carries a range of books, most of which are $3 or less and sales proceeds benefit senior citizens. I picked up a like-new Malcolm Gladwell hardback for a mere $3.

Second Reading sells used books at bargain prices.

Downtown West Chester is growing and reaching out to an even wider variety of tastes for those, who like me, need a change of scenery every now and then. To keep up-to-date with what's happening in this burgeoning area, take a look at their website at www.downtownwestchester.com.