Charmed by Chestnut Hill--Philly's Best Kept Secret

Nestled on the northwestern edge of Philadelphia, Chestnut Hill beckons to those seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of daily life. With its cobblestone streets, cozy cafes, lush gardens, bountiful boutiques and burgeoning arts scene, this walkable neighborhood is tailor made for a weekend getaway to relax and recharge.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

The historic hotel dates back to the 1800s and its evolution can be seen in the photos that were posted in the elevator.

Our room was spacious and comfortable.

Using the the Chestnut Hill Hotel located at 8220 Germantown Avenue as a central location allows the the convenience of a large, free parking lot. It’s an ideal basecamp for daily strolls to the many shops and restaurants in the area.

A Growing Art Museum

A large sculpture in front of the Woodmere.

Also located on Germantown Avenue is the Woodmere Art Museum. Housed in a historic building that once belonged to founder and avid art collector Charles Knox Smith, the museum touts approximately 8,000 works, showcasing the talents of the many artists who call Philadelphia their home.

Outdoors, visitors can explore the museum’s growing sculpture collection known collectively as Woodmere’s Outdoor Wonder (WOW). Guests can take advantage of the opportunity to scan QR codes to learn more about each piece.

The exterior of the Woodmere Art Museum (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

A highlight with ties to Harrisburg is an exhibit by Violet Oakley, who is known for her 43 murals which festoon the walls of the Capitol building.

Violet Oakley artwork.

Edge of a Forest on the Susquehanna River by Edmund Darch Lewis

The Woodmere is among the elite three percent of U.S. museums accredited by the American Alliance of Museums, a recognition of its commitment to excellence. Recently, it announced the acquisition of a nearby building and four additional acres for expanded gallery space and outdoor exhibits. Officials expect an October/November 2025 opening.

Flora and Fauna

Beautiful blooms are in abundance. (Photo: Cynthia Schemmer, Courtesy of UPenn)

Nature lovers will enjoy the Morris Arboretum and Gardens, a 92-acre oasis that’s part of the University of Pennsylvania. The private estate of siblings John and Lydia Morris, the property was transformed from desolate land in the late 1800s, into a verdant landscape with plants from around the world. It became a public arboretum in 1933 after Lydia’s passing.

Morris Arboretum is home to 17 "champion trees." (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District )

Home to 17 "champion" trees--recognized as outstanding specimens in Pennsylvania—the grounds include a rare katsura tree and a grove of dawn redwoods once thought extinct.

Designed with inspiration from English parks and Japanese gardens, the arboretum features a lovely swan pond and scenic overlooks. Morris also hosts educational programs designed for both kids and adults on art, wellness, botany, birding, and more.

Bountiful blooms at the Morris Arboretum (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

Another natural retreat is Wissahickon Valley Park located at 120 Northwestern Avenue. With 50 miles of trails, the 1,800-acre park is perfect for a picnicking, walking, biking and wildlife watching.  On any given day one is likely to see wildflowers, deer and perhaps the occasional fox.

Shopping Along Germantown Avenue

I purchased a memoir written by Anthony Bourdain's assistant at Booked.

Germantown Avenue is home to many boutique shops, each offering something unique. At the Antique Gallery at 8523 Germantown Avenue, you may meet Gerald Schultz, a man with a passion for the decorative arts. Schultz established the business in the 1980s and enjoys offering information about his many interesting and beautiful pieces. During my visit, he introduced me to a striking Art Deco-style Longwy service in earthenware cloisonné enamel. I learned that Longwy is a French town known for its enameling techniques.

The Antique Shop can be seen here with the green awning. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

A Longwy service at The Antique Gallery.

Art enthusiasts will also enjoy browsing the street’s many other galleries—there are at least seven along the avenue. Since I own a Britto and two Peter Max paintings, these two works caught my eye and were for sale at Moondance Farm Studios.

A piece by Romero Britto.

Peter Max painting

Food and Drink

McNally's Tavern is a popular spot for the locals. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

No trip to Chestnut Hill is complete without a visit to McNally’s Tavern at 8634 Germantown Avenue. McNally’s is viewed as an institution in Chestnut Hill. The eatery dates back to 1921 when Rose O’Brien McNally, wife of a trolley conductor, opened “McNally’s Quick Lunch” in a small steel building across from its current location. The eatery was a respite for Philadelphia Rapid Transit workers and local laborers.

In 1927, the eatery expanded to where it is today, serving spirits and beer after the repeal of prohibition. Today the landmark, run by Anne and Meg McNally, is a testament to their great-grandmother’s legacy. Known for its signature Schmitter sandwich made with steak, cheese, fried onions, tomatoes, cooked salami, and "Schmitter sauce,” it is served on a kaiser roll.

Adelinas Restaurant and Bar is another standout located on Germantown Avenue. The Italian eatery opened in 2022 by brothers Antonio and Giuliano Presta and is named after their grandmother. The menu features traditional Italian fare made with locally sourced ingredients. Popular dishes include stuffed focaccia, chicken parmesan and a porterhouse topped with black truffle butter.

Adelinas, located next door to the Chestnut Hill Hotel, serves a variety of Italian dishes (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

After dinner, enjoy a nightcap at Char & Stave located at 8441 Germantown Avenue. The coffeehouse/cocktail bar hybrid was founded by Jared Adkins who applied his whisky-making talent to the art of coffee roasting.

Coffee and cocktails are available at Char & Stave. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District.)

There's also Wednesday night trivia held from 7-9 p.m.at the Chestnut Hill Brewing Co., where guests can engage in friendly competition for a prize.

Wednesday night is trivia night at Chestnut Hill Brewing Co.

Customers also like gathering around the fire at Chestnut Hill Brewing Co. (Photo courtesy Chestnut Hill Business District)

For breakfast, head to CAKE, a place so popular that people queue up early to wait in line for employees to open the place. The bright, airy eatery housed in a converted Victorian greenhouse, is known for its baked goods and its brioche French toast with honey butter and spiced pecans. The business also serves up hearty lunch options like Philly cheesesteak marsala.

Cake is an eatery in a repurposed Victorian greenhouse (Photo courtesy of Chestnut Hill Business District)

Whether you're wandering through fragrant gardens, admiring local art, savoring a Schmitter at a historic tavern, or browsing boutique shops, Chestnut Hill offers the perfect blend of culture, history, and natural beauty. For a weekend escape that delights the senses, look no further than Chestnut Hill.

How a PA Boom Town with an Unlikely Name Gave Rise to the Petroleum Industry

This blog entry has nothing whatsoever to do with cheese plates, nor room service--quite the opposite. Yet it's a story I felt like sharing due to its interesting backstory and it seemed easiest this way. So here it is, shoehorned in. I hope you find it as interesting as I did.

When my husband and I first learned of Pithole, we got quite the laugh and contemplated why a town would have such a name. Might it be Spanish? Pronounced Pit-hole-aay? No, we were told, there was no putting lipstick on that moniker, but we can't say we didn't try to fancy it up. And yes, it does indeed rhyme with another word that about sums it up.

Deeper research revealed that the origin of the name is a bit murky, not unlike the streets of that place located in between Pleasantville (once you emerge from Pithole I suppose) and Plumer in Venango County, Pennsylvania. There are two schools of thought here: it was named thusly due to the sulfur gases that wafted up through the holes between the rocks near a local creek. This led some to speculate that it was a portal to hell. Another hypothesis is that the name was derived from the excavations that took place when drilling for oil.

One thing’s for sure, the town lived up to its name, or down rather. You could say that the area attracted some of society's worst and became a haven for those with only the strongest stomachs and the most rugged constitutions.

How It Began

The City of Pithole, courtesy of the Drake Museum and Parks Collection

Pithole City began on the Thomas Holmden farm in Venango County in 1865 when two speculators, named Frazier and Faulkner, leased 65 acres of farmland hoping that there’d be gold in them thar hills, liquid gold, so to speak. It stood to reason, they figured, since nearby Oil Creek Valley was revealed to be rich with it. So, using a divining tool with a witch hazel twig, (it’s a Pennsylvania thing), they set off to drill. Well, their efforts paid off handsomely and pretty soon people from all parts of the country we’re flocking to the area to get rich quick. It seemed everyone and his brother wanted a piece of the action.

The City of Pithole photographed from the flats by Pithole Creek looking up towards the city (photo courtesy of the Drake Museum and Parks Collection)

The land was leased to speculators at $3K per half acre, a whopping sum in 1865. Because these speculators didn’t own the land, they’d erect makeshift wooden structures for living and drilling there. One two-story hotel built with astonishing rapidity was the Astor Hotel, which went up in one day.

Soon the city was home to 15,000 residents, 57 hotels and numerous brothels and bars. It seems as if those who had taken up residence there were also patrons of the arts. Never let it be said that those residents lacked class! In no time they had constructed theaters and hired actors. The city also established a hometown newspaper and a post office which was said to be the third-busiest in Pennsylvania.

People congratulated each other on the swiftness with which they acted to erect structures to accommodate their needs, but it turned out that the builders were short-sighted. Pennsylvania winters in the buildings were brutal, with gusts of air blowing through the hastily made log cabin structures.

Forget the Tussie-Mussies—Send Some Smelling Salts Over Here

According to Susan Hutchison Tassin in her book titled “Pennsylvania Ghost Towns,” the place literally reeked—reeked plus ultra, stunk to the high heavens—you get the idea. And water was hard to come by. Those who did manage to procure some were charged 10 cents a cup and then one couldn't guarantee it wouldn't be oily.

Shopkeepers, hoteliers, residents all pitched their garbage and chamber pots right into the streets. Those who had to cross said streets would remove their shoes and socks and then dunk them into a large vat of water provided by the business people around the city. The poor Pithole mules were flogged when they couldn’t keep up dragging barrels of heavy oil around and most were bald from the neck down due to the sludge that damaged the capillaries to the skin. When they finally chose death over pain, they were dragged to the edge of town and unceremoniously dumped. According to Tassin, the life expectancy of the poor creatures was but a few months. Because of the maltreatment, they ran out of beasts of burden, but the enablers just shipped them more, bringing mules in from Ohio and New York.

The Wild, Wild West

As time went on, the city became like the Wild West. According to reports, there were shootouts, murders and riots. One brothel felt the need to “advertise” and the girls would ride naked down the streets at night in a unique marketing campaign.

By 1866, Pithole City denizens had realized it was time to move on after wells dried up and a series of fires took on a life of their own with so much kindling in the form of shacks around. That was the death knell for the area and the end of the liquid gold rush that gave birth to a town which lasted a mere 500 days.

Today’s Pithole

When my husband and I visited a few years’ ago, there really wasn’t much to see. There was a small visitor’s center that displays photos of Pithole City, but it was closed when we visited. I later learned that the Visitor Center is open to the public from May 31 through August 31 on weekends from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For those who are interested in seeing old pictures of Pithole City during its heyday, there’s also the Drake Well Museum and Park located in nearby Titusville Pa. The museum opened in 1934 and pays tribute to the area’s petroleum industry, so visitors will be able to see even more photos of Pithole during its rough-and-tumble, short-lived heyday. The museum's 240-acre site features a replica of Edwin L. Drake’s engine house built around the National Historic Landmark well, along with operating oil field machinery. Guest will also be able to browse among 12,000 square foot of interior exhibits and view the largest artifact and archival collection focused on the birth of the modern petroleum industry.

Drake Well Visitors Center
Photos courtesy of Drake Well Museum and Park

The Drake Well building 

Drake Engine House

We ended up with one, lone picture of what used to be Pithole City, a photo which fails to reveal the state of the area all those years’ ago.

Today's Pithole.

Hershey AACA Pays Tribute to Antique Automobiles

When parents take their kids to Hershey Park, they aren't always aware that a world-class automotive museum is virtually right around the corner. 

The Kissmobile welcomes visitors.

The Antique Automobile Club of America (AACA) Museum, located at 161 Museum Drive in Hershey, attracts car aficionados who come from miles around. The first thing guests see parked out front is the 12-foot-tall, 26-foot long, custom-made Kissmobile cruiser which resembles three Hershey's Kisses. This is quite a sight for those who have never seen the Kissmobile and it's always a hit with kids.

According to staff, the museum welcomes approximately 70,000 guests per year, with rotating exhibits to keep them returning to see something new every time. The three-story, 70,000 square-foot building houses nearly 100 cars, a train exhibit, motorcycles, a diner and a selection of busses.

When my husband and I visited recently, we were delighted to learn that "Forgotten Features" was the theme and that the exhibit will continue through November 16, 2025.

It was fascinating to learn about long-forgotten options like the bed-in-a-car seat option, shown in the 1941 Nash below. It makes sense since the cars were huge at that time, especially in contrast to today's models.

Cars with doors that are hinged to the roof and lift up are features that are a bit more modern. The Bricklin car (as seen below) was the first ever to feature the powered version.

1976 Bricklin

One of my favorite cars in the latest exhibit is this 1957 lime green Pontiac that sports an illuminated car ornament, a piece of car jewelry that I wish would return.

1953 Pontiac Chieftain

Then there's this car below, which would intimidate even the most skilled parallel parker. The 1957 Ford Skyliner sported the world's first mass-produced retractable top, tailor made for speeding down the road on balmy summer days.

1957 Ford Skyliner

Another interesting, long-forgotten accessory, was the sun visor, as seen below in this 1954 Chevrolet Bel-Air.

1954 Chevrolet Bel-Air with white sun visor.

I've been to more than a few car museums in my life and this is the first time I've seen this nifty accessory displayed in the automobile below. Called a swamp cooler, Thermador, or car cooler, the wire cage was filled with water and balsa wood shavings and allowed warm air to enter, evaporating the water so that cooler air could be blown inside.

Early air conditioning.

Another interesting car with unique styling is this 1951 Studebaker, with an attractive hood ornament, a huge "nose" and a wraparound roof. It makes our current cars seem positively boring in comparison.

1951 Studebaker with wrap-around roof and cool hood ornament.

Then there's this 1957 Chrysler New Yorker with a push-button shift selector. Having driven a stick-shift, I felt like this would have been an easier option for those of us who were forced to learn on one, but research tells me that they did away with them because they were viewed as a "novelty" feature and became outdated. Why am I skeptical?

1957 Chrysler New Yorker

Then there's the color-changing speedometer that seems like a fun feature, but that too, was fleeting.

A permanent exhibit, which fascinates many visitors, features the world's largest collection of Tucker 48 automobiles built by Preston Tucker, a forward-thinking entrepreneur from Michigan. To learn more about Tucker's creativity and ingenuity, consider viewing Francis Ford Coppola's 1988 film, Tucker: The Man and His Dream. The vehicles on display at the AACA include the first 'production' prototype, along with number 1022 and 1026--the only Tucker built with an automatic transmission. Tucker crafted each stylish car by hand and touted them as "the car of tomorrow." Only 27 are known to exist today.

Beautiful Tuckers on display.

The AACA is also home to the largest collection of antique buses under one roof. This took me back to the days when I would ride the bus with my grandmother to visit my father in Pittsburgh.

Also on the lower level are a selection of motorcycles, an interactive, custom train exhibit for kids designed under the leadership of founder Ed Maloy, and a cute, compact diner, which dates back to the 1940s. The restored eatery, once known as the Flo-Inn Cafe, was transported from Wichita, Kansas and was in operation until the 1980s. You can read more about the Flo-Inn Cafe here

A 1940s Valentine Diner from Kansas called the Flo-Inn

The Flo-Inn was once located in Wichita, Kansas

If your group, or your company needs to schedule a get together, the AACA also rents out space for events and meetings. 

This and more is what awaits you if you decide to do something in Hershey other than visit the famous park. Learn more about this family friendly destination by visiting their website at https://www.aacamuseum.org/.

Beholding the Beautiful State of Utah

Bridal Veil Falls

As a kid, my only reference to Utah was watching Donny and Marie Osmond on TV. Later, shows like Sister Wives (don’t judge) showcased the state’s stunning landscapes in the background of the Brown family drama. Still, visiting Utah had never crossed my mind—until our 25th wedding anniversary.

My husband and I wanted to experience something entirely different, which was no small feat given how much we’ve traveled. Then it struck me—Utah would be fresh, unique, and visually spectacular. I'm thrilled to say it exceeded our expectations. No matter where we drove, we were surrounded by breathtaking views.

Mountains were seemingly everywhere.

We explored three regions: Provo, Salt Lake City, and Ogden. If you enjoy shopping, art, and history, as I do, you’ll likely find all three destinations a delight.

Art and Shopping in Provo

Our first stop was The Shops at Riverwood, where we ate a delicious lunch at La Jolla Groves, then proceeded to explore shops like Jos. A Bank, Bath and Bodyworks and more. Being a bibliophile, Moon's Rare Books caught my eye and, of course I had to venture inside.

The Shops at Riverwoods

What I experienced was an amazing collection of books set amidst a lovely, pleasingly aesthetic backdrop. Reid Moon is the owner and collector of the artifacts at Moon's Rare Books, and it's said that he's a storyteller who enjoys the history behind the items that he's collected over the past three decades. All I know is that it was the coolest bookstore I've ever had the pleasure of visiting.

Moon's Rare Books is not only an interesting shop but also a beautiful one.

The Federalist on the New Constitution.

Brigham Young University Museum of Art

Our next stop was the Brigham Young University Museum of Art, a destination so impressive that you'll marvel at the fact that admission is free.

The BYU Museum of Art houses a diverse collection of more than 18,000 works, which include American, European and religious art, with a large portion reflecting the university's connection to The Church of Latter-Day Saints.

Titled, "When to Stop," by Brian Kershisnik, an angel cautions a writer to stop and be quiet.

 

The Museum also features contemporary art.

The piece above was done by Li Lhong in China in 1974 and is called McDonald (Flowers and Birds) and is said to represent historical and contemporary circuits of global trade and exchange.

Crucifixion: A Triptych

Bernard Sleigh's altarpiece depicted above is said to be a message of hope and was initially commissioned for a women's prison in London.

Visitors can expect to spend about an hour in the museum, which is open Monday through Saturday.

Salt Lake City

Our next excursion was the Tracy Aviary at Liberty Park, where we not only interacted with the birds, but enjoyed a captivating show, along with a group of children, who were entirely enraptured by it all (pardon the pun). The bird shows are programs designed to be educational by showcasing the fowls natural behaviors.

Kids squealed with delight as various birds flew over their heads.

This bird enjoyed pecking on my noggin.

The birds at the Tracy Aviary were once part of a personal collection of banker Russell Lord Tracy, who collected and displayed them in his home in Salt Lake City. As the collection became more popular, he decided to work with the city to dedicate a portion of Liberty Park to the collection. 

Over the years, the Tracy Aviary expanded from four acres to eight and is now home to about 400 different birds representing 135 species like vultures, macaws, hawks, owls and more. In 2016, the Aviary opened "Treasures of the Rainforest," which is home to dozens of birds and plant species from along the equator.

A highlight of the show are the Spoonbills and the owls.

Bird shows occur at 11 a.m. from Tuesday through Sunday and are free with the price of admission.

A guide addresses the audience (photo courtesy of Tracy Aviary).

Temple Square

Our next stop in Salt Lake City was Temple Square, a 35-acre area that serves as the Latter-Day Saints (LDS) headquarters. We were a bit disappointed at the condition of the iconic temple during our visit, the view of which was practically obliterated by scaffolding. I learned later that the renovation work won't be finished until 2026.

Renovations to the Temple will be finished in 2026.

The Temple may have been a disappointment, but there was plenty to do in Temple Square , like listening to a daily organ recital in the iconic Mormon Tabernacle, or shopping at the nearby City Creek Center, which features upscale stores like Louis Vuitton, and such other well-known brands as Nordstrom, GAP, Lush and Macy's.

An organ recital is held daily at the Mormon Tabernacle.

Nordstrom is just one of the stores at the sprawling City Creek Center.

Another interesting Salt Lake City attraction is the Utah Museum of Contemporary Art (UMOC).

Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., the UMOC hosts a variety of temporary exhibitions, featuring local and international artists working in a diverse range of media like painting, sculpture, photography, video and more. 

Below are a few pieces I thought were interesting, including this one by Dalila Sanabrias, who uses cardboard as a medium to reflect on her childhood and her family whose father was deported to Columbia when the child was 12 year's old.

Dalila Sanabrias, Repisasi 2024

Rene Magritte, L'aube a' L'antipode, etching

The etching above depicts a man with a shattered mind, exploding in multiple directions. The deeply traumatized person's memories lead to a kind of rupture of the self and a shattering of the brain. 

Portrait of My Anxiety

Portrait of My Anxiety, by Margaret Curtis, shows a knitter tied up in knots while the world burns outside. Curtis is an artist who hails from Bermuda and her work can be seen in galleries across the United States.

The State Capitol

Also located in Salt Lake City is the Utah State Capitol. Completed in 1916 in the Beaux-Arts style, the capitol overlooks downtown Salt Lake City.

Lions greet visitors at the entrance.

The impressive structure with its marble floors and ornate ceilings is home not only to the legislature, but also the Governor. The 10-acre site features monuments and sculptures that are situated on beautifully landscaped gardens and walking paths.

Brigham Young is just one of the many statues in the Salt Lake City Capitol.

Visitors take photos of the impressive dome.

Visitors can take advantage of free guided tours, which last between 45 minutes and one hour.

History and Art in Ogden

Ogden reminded me of an old-west town with its painted horses everywhere and its retro feel. A visit to Historic 25th Street will take visitors through the small town where they will be reminded of a simpler time.

My first stop was a chocolate shop that is beautiful in an old-world way. The owner was extremely welcoming and we had a nice chat before I moved on.

Lene' Marie Chocolates is a great place to satisfy a sweet tooth.

I recommend the salted caramels.

Plenty of old neon signs on Historic 25th Street.

Union Station is an old train station that now attracts visitors from all over the world. It contains the John M. Browning Firearms Museum and the Utah State Railroad Museum.

Guns displayed at the John M. Browning Firearms Museum

I particularly enjoyed the antique automobiles on display at the station.

Our last stop in Ogdon was the Eccles Art Center located in the historic home of David and Bertha Eccles in the historic Jefferson District. Its mission is to promote visual and performing arts. 

The beautiful Victorian mansion was an impressive place to stroll through and I even spotted a cute feline sunning himself near a curved radiator--a shape I've never seen before.

The Eccles Art Center is housed in a beautiful Victorian mansion.

A cat suns himself in this cool nook.

Those who visit the area are likely to see the Eccles family name more than once. The family members were influential business leaders in Ogden who were instrumental in the success and prosperity of the town.

David Eccles, in particular, was known as Utah's first multimillionaire who built an empire with the Ogden Lumber Company.

A painting of the outside of the Victorian.

The Great Salt Lake

On our final day, we returned to Salt Lake City to explore the Great Salt Lake, otherwise known as the largest saltwater lake in the Western Hemisphere.

The lake is highly saline, with salinity levels ranging from 5% to 27%, much higher than typical seawater (which is around 3.5% salinity). This high salt content is a result of the lake having no outlet, meaning that water flows in but doesn't flow out. The evaporation process leaves behind minerals, creating the lake's saltiness.

Visitors enjoy various recreational activities at the lake, including boating, swimming, and birdwatching and the lake’s high salinity allows swimmers to float easily.

By this time, we felt like we had covered a lot of ground, but there really is quite a bit to do in the area, so I hope that this overview gives you somewhat of an idea of what's in store if you decide to visit the beautiful areas of Salt Lake City, Provo and Ogden.

The end of a great trip.