Discovering Greenville through the Upcountry History Museum

As many of you know, I've recently relocated to Greenville, South Carolina after spending my entire life in Pennsylvania.

As a travel writer, I'm excited to explore the South with the same curiosity and enthusiasm that I brought to my years of covering the Mid-Atlantic. Just last week I visited the Upcountry History Museum, where I learned about 300 years of cultural, social and economic development that shaped the Greenville region. 

The Upcountry History Museum is one of a cluster of museums on Heritage Green.

The museum, which opened in 2007, is operated by Furman University and is part of the cultural campus known as Heritage Green. The cluster also includes the Children's Museum, the Greenville County Museum of Art, the Sigal Music Museum, the county's main library and the Little Theatre. The museum covers about 15 Upstate counties from settlement to the present day, offering a sweeping look at the area's story.

As a person who is new to the area and encounters the name McBee a lot around here, I was interested to learn that Vardry McBee is often called "The Father of Greenville." McBee established a saddlery, mills, an ironworks, a brickyard, a stone quarry and more in the Greenville area. Eager to give back to his community, he donated land for schools and churches and became an advocate for the railroad, fueling even more development. (Ironically, I once worked for a company called McBee Systems, while in college. I didn't realize it was based in Greenville. Of course, now I do.)

Vardry McBee is also known as the "Father of Greenville."

Another highlight of my visit was learning how the Reedy River's restoration paved the way for Greenville's renaissance. What is now the beloved Falls Park was once a blighted area. Thanks to funds from a hospitality tax, the city transformed a 32-acre area in the West End District into a beautiful public garden and area where the people can stroll, shop, or simply enjoy the view.

Another highlight of my tour was the Pepsi exhibit. I had no idea that it is based in Greenville. Visitors can enjoy learning about the history of the company and even how its logos evolved over the years. (The first one was atrocious!)

The museum has two levels of exhibit galleries, some permanent and some rotating. In 2015, the Upcountry History Museum became a Smithsonian affiliate, enabling it to host curated Smithsonian exhibits.

Music lovers will appreciate the section on the "Piedmont Blues," a style of acoustic guitar music characterized by a unique finger-picking technique that combines a steady, alternating bass line with a syncopated melody.

Influential blues artists like Rev. Gary Davis and Pink Anderson were born in nearby Laurens, leaving their mark on American music.

One thing I like about exploring the history of areas is that I often discover how common words are coined. For example, carpetbaggers got their name when South Carolinians became a bit resentful of outsiders arriving in the area to participate in state government. One common comment was that "everything these men own they could carry in a carpetbag!"

For me, one of the most moving exhibits was the interactive display on Greenville's textile history. The city was once a textile hub, with mills clustered around the Reedy River. Visitors can hear the sounds of the mills while listening to oral histories from women who worked there. The work was arduous: long hours for low pay and constant exposure to dust and noise. Many were derisively called "lint heads" since cotton fibers clung to their hair, clothes and skin, marking them in ways that fueled class prejudice.

Museum visitors will learn more about those who toiled at textile mills.

In another part of the museum is the War Dogs: K-9 Military Exhibit. It runs through February 9, 2026 and tells the stories of a different kind of military hero. The touching display explains how man's best friend exhibited bravery through during some very trying times in our past.

I found the above exhibit of a fallen service dog on an American flag especially hard to view without tearing up.

Debuting this summer is the Avengers: End Game--The Exhibition, which runs through January 18, 2026. It includes original costumes, movie props and memorabilia from the movie Avengers: End Game. Guests will see the Black Panther costume warn by Chadwick Boseman from nearby Anderson. They will also spot the Ant-Man suit and the Captain America costume worn by Chris Evans. 

Beyond exhibits, the museum hosts programs, events, lectures, family days and more special exhibitions. 

A theater for community gatherings.

Upcoming Exhibitions

Sue Reich's The Quilter's Night Before Christmas November 1-January 11, 2026.

Beyond Halloween Land Tim Burton's The Nightmare Before Christmas from October 18-March 1, 2026.

The Art of Warner Bros. Cartoons from January 31- May 24, 2026.

The Upcountry History Museum is open from Tuesday-Saturday 10-5 p.m. and Sunday from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed Mondays)

For newcomers like me—and longtime residents alike—it’s a fascinating place to gain perspective on the region’s past and how it continues to shape the Greenville we know today.

Fall into Autumn Tourism in Northeast Pennsylvania

Fall is a great time to take a road trip to the many businesses and attractions in the Northeast Pennsylvania region.

Shopkeepers in the area prepare early to welcome leaf peepers, festival-goers, Halloween fans and more.

Celebrate Spooky Season

Horror Hall

Two businesses that gear up to embrace spooky season are Reaper’s Revenge in Blakely and Horror Hall in West Nanticoke.

John Rinehimer, chairman of the Board of Directors of HorrorHall, has been watching the attraction grow. “When we started this in 1984, we had between three and four thousand visitors. Today it’s grown to between 10,000 and 11,000,” he said.

The venue serves as a community center during the off season. Proceeds not only help keep the lights on in the 35,000 square-foot facility, but also benefit area charities like the Pennsylvania Wounded Warriors, little leagues, school choirs and police units, to name a few.

The fun starts in the parking lot with food vendors, stilt walkers, jugglers, fire eaters and other acts to captivate attendees.

Once inside, visitors are treated to a stage show to learn the rules before continuing on to a 20-25-minute walk through which evokes startled jumps, screams and laughs. “Guests are entertained from the minute they arrive, to when they leave,” said Rinehimer.

Horror Hall is open weekends throughout October and culminates with even more horror on November 1—one that is so horrific that it requires a waiver, according to organizers. 

Along those same lines is Reaper’s Revenge, which is located just outside of Scranton. The attraction launched in 2009 and delivers a spine-tingling, fright-filled experience with more than five attractions.  The Haunted Hayride, Lost Carnival, Delirium, Pitch Black and Sector 13 provide thrills for thousands of haunt seekers every year.  For the less brave, Reaper's Revenge offers a day-time show "Lil' Grim's" which includes the hay-ride and Delirium walk-through.  The night show runs weekends, through November 2.  Lil' Grim's runs Saturdays and Sundays in October.  

Leaf Peeping Aplenty

Steamtown offers leaf-peeping excursions.

For those seeking a calmer fall adventure, the Steamtown National Historic Site in Scranton offers scenic train rides that showcase the region’s changing foliage. According to Megan Stevens, Park Ranger, options range from 30-minute rides through the historic Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad to day-long excursions with layovers, live entertainment, food trucks and more.

Another event that celebrates fall is The Fall Foliage Festival is held in the picturesque town of Jim Thorpe every October. This year’s celebration kicks off on Oct. 4 and runs weekends through Oct. 19. During this time, businesses and restaurants run specials and many offer Halloween treats for the kids, while vendors will be on hand selling homemade arts and crafts. Those who visit the town will also be able to experience the beauty of the autumn colors on the Lehigh Gorge Scenic Railway. The Autumn Leaf Train runs from October 1 through November 16 and takes passengers on a 45-minute roundtrip excursion for a scenic view of the Lehigh Gorge's fall foliage, including views of the river, cliffs, and mountains.

At night, consider supporting a good cause by signing up for a ghost tour run by the Jim Thorpe Rotary. Proceeds benefit summer programs for children. The walk lasts about one hour and is recommended for ages 7 and up.

Ghost stories in Jim Thorpe.

Explore Delaware Water Gap

Buttermilk Falls in Delaware Water Gap.

The Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area touts 150 miles of hiking and biking trails and offers stunning views to take in the breathtaking beauty of nature’s brilliance.

Those who venture into the borough of Delaware Water Gap, just minutes away from Stroudsburg, will encounter historic places like the Appalachian Trail’s oldest hiker hostel, the Deer Head Inn, known as the longest continually running jazz club in the country.

The porch at the Deer Head Inn, the longest running jazz club in the country.

The bar at the Deer Head Inn.

A painting that hangs on the wall of the Deer Head Inn.

The Castle Inn in Delaware Water Gap.

Nearby there’s the Antoine Dutot Museum and Gallery, which is open weekends in October. The museum operates in an historic red school house, which dates to 1870 and tells the story of the town’s tourism heyday when Delaware Water Gap used to attract half a million tourists each year.

The Shawnee Inn at Delaware Water Gap.

Businesses in the borough are also open for unique shopping experiences like those to be had at The Shoppes at Castle Inn. Located in an historic hotel that dates to 1906, the Inn features a toy shop, art gallery, ice cream, antiques and more. Is anyone old enough to remember Fred Waring (waring blender, Fred Waring and the Pennsylvanians)? Fred was a native of Delaware Water Gap.

And for something a little different, consider popping into Sango Kura, Pennsylvania’s first and only sake brewery. It operates as an izakaya-style restaurant, serving handcrafted sake and Japanese pub fare.

Summer may be over, but that doesn’t mean the fun has to be. From haunted thrills to historic train rides, Northeast Pennsylvania offers many ways to celebrate autumn with activities that appeal to both visitors and locals alike.

Interested in learning more? Visit the following websites for additional information.

Reapers Revenge:  https://reapersrevenge.com/

Horror Hall: https://www.horrorhall.com/

https://www.facebook.com/JimThorpeRotaryGhostWalks/

Steamtown: www.nps.gov/steamtown 

Deer Head Inn: https://deerheadinn.com/

Antoine Dutot Museum and Gallery: https://dutotmuseum.org/

The Historic Castle Inn: https://www.castleinnpa.com/

Sango Kura: https://sangokurasake.com/

Bavaria in the Blue Ridge

It's official--I'm now a South Carolina resident. Moving wasn't easy, but we did it and we're finally settled in enough now to turn our attention to travel. One pleasant surprise? Flights to Florida are much cheaper from Greenville and the airport is only 15 minutes away--all good stuff!

Still, my first "away" adventure was inspired by something closer to home. While flipping through travel brochures, one destination stood out--a town that looked like it belonged in the Alps, rather than here in the American South. In a mere two hours, we discovered that we could be in the midst of a Bavarian-style village, complete with restaurants, charming shops and architecture one might encounter on an excursion to Germany.

The History of Helen

The Helen Arts & Heritage Center

The first stop I recommend is the Helen Arts & Heritage Center to view a short film on the background of the town. Helen was founded in the early 1900s when lumber reigned supreme. (It was named after the daughter of a Byrd-Matthews lumber company official.) By the late 1960s, lumber was on its way out and the town was struggling economically.

Clearly the town needed a way to thrive economically, which led a few local businessmen to invite an artist from nearby Clarksville to help reimagine the town. John Kollock, drawing from his experiences in Germany while in the military, suggested transforming Helen into a Bavarian-style village, complete with alpine architecture and murals. Merchants and craftsmen embraced the idea and began remodeling their storefronts with classic Old World details. By 1970, the transformation was complete and the town launched its first Oktoberfest, which was a great success. This led more shops to begin selling German beer, food and crafts. Soon, the national news was taking notice. Today it's a popular destination, attracting 1.5 million visitors annually.

After viewing the film at the Arts & Heritage Center visitors can take the opportunity to peruse the rooms that showcase the region's many talented artists. 

Art on display at the Helen Arts & Heritage Center

Restaurants, shops and more

Situated throughout the walkable town, a bevy of shops sell everything from German beer, food, apparel, gifts and more.

 

A rare picture of me taken by my husband.

Don't Miss Anna Ruby Falls

Just outside town in the Chattahoochee National Forest lies Anna Ruby Falls. The Visitors Center offers restrooms, a gift shop and educational exhibits.

The Visitor Center provides restrooms, a gift shop and educational exhibits.

From there a paved, half-mile trail (steep in spots) leads to the twin cascades,  It took us about 25 minutes to make it to falls that are named after the daughter of a settler who owned the land.

The U.S. Forest Service, which manages the area, requires a small entrance fee to help maintain the site. Along the trail, visitors can read more about the scenery through interpretive signs and take a break on one of the many benches that dot the trail.

The beautiful payoff at the end.

At the end of the hike, visitors will see the falls that are formed where two creeks--Curtis and York--merge, creating twin cascades that drop 153 feet and 50 feet.

The General Store

Betty's General Store is a local gem for provisions and offers anything anyone needs for camping or staying a few days at a hotel--from fresh-cut meats, to cheeses, jerky, beer, wine and more.

Restaurant Recommendations

Two standout restaurants during our stay were Cowboys & Angels and Bodensee. Cowboys and Angels are known for their steaks and I certainly enjoyed mine. The family-run restaurant has been a fixture in the area since 2015.

Sirloin, corn and sweet potato at Cowboys & Angels.

We couldn't leave Helen, Georgia without experiencing some authentic German food, however. When we chose Bodensee, we were hoping for a good experience. In a town full of German food, we weren't sure what to expect. It turns out we were quite delighted with both the food and the service. We tried the sampler for two comprised of Sauerbraten, Schwein Braten, Beef Roll, Smoked Pork Chop, Garlic Wurst, and Pork Schnitzel served with Spätzle, Sauerkraut, Red Cabbage, and Potato Salad and topped with gravies. Everything was so delicious that we will definitely return again for the experience. Since visiting, I learned that the chef went to culinary school in Romania and later spent years in Germany honing his craft before moving to Helen. 

Final Thoughts

With its unique backstory, Old World Charm and natural beauty, Helen makes for a memorable getaway. Whether you're there for the history, the hiking, or the hearty German meals, this little village in the Georgia mountains is certainly worth the trip.

Preserving History in Pa: Mechanicsburg's Ashcombe Mansion

At a time when “development” often takes precedence over preservation, Deborah Myers Welsh is grateful to have been in the right place at the right time to save the historic Ashcombe mansion in Mechanicsburg.

A stunning house, built in 1892 and nestled on 22 acres, the Queen Anne Victorian boasts classic period details--steeply pitched roofs, a vibrant color scheme which helps one understand why Victorians were called “painted ladies,” large bay windows, a wraparound porch and a prominent round turret making it evocative of the Rapunzel fairytale.

“A developer was going to tear it down to make way for 50 homes,” said Myers Welsh.

How It All Began

The stately abode isn’t entirely unique in its origins in that it was built by someone who had some standing in the community. In this case, that would be the Honorable Henry G. Moser, iron manufacturer, legislator and county judge. Moser built it as a summer house for his beloved wife, Margaret Moser.

The home remained in the Moser family for 93 years until it began operating as a bed and breakfast in 1984. After the B&B business ceased operations, the mansion sat vacant for nearly eight years until Myers Welsh purchased the property saving it from the wrecking ball.

For Myers Welsh it’s been a passion project. “I am an attorney by trade, serving as in-house general counsel to healthcare companies, but when our daughter went off to college, I decided to take it on. I’ve always loved the hospitality business,” she said.

She began renovations in 2018 and completed them about a year later. “We added on the portico and circular porch, the hallway entrance and a sunroom, which was an old enclosed porch. We also installed a commercial kitchen, restrooms and a Sperry tent,” said Myers Welsh. For those unfamiliar with the term, a Sperry tent is a high-end handcrafted sailcloth tent known for its elegant and airy appearance. The 6,000 square-foot, custom-made tent is attached to the building. “It accommodates more than 300 guests and we think of it more as a ballroom. It has permanent heating and air conditioning and a black-and-white checkered floor,” explains Myers Welsh.

Five rooms in the mansion are available for rent, typically in conjunction with events like weddings.

The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion

Today, the mansion operates as an event venue known as “The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion.” The name “Ashcombe” means “grove of ashes,” a nod to the ash trees that stood on the property. Unfortunately, due to blight, many had to be removed. “We were able to save some and new tree plantings have already taken place, including the planting of several willow trees, hence the name,” said Myers Welsh.

Bringing In a Chef

Myers Welsh hired Harrisburg resident Anthony Bianco about a year ago to act as manager and executive chef. Bianco had previously worked at the Hilton. “We started out with a catering company and were a BYO facility, but now we handle everything in-house. It allows us to serve our patrons more efficiently when food is prepared onsite, which is how we set ourselves apart from other wedding venues,” said Myers Welsh.

More recently, The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion has opened its doors to the public for English-style teas on Sundays. A glimpse of the interior alone is worth the visit, with ornate ceiling medallions supporting glistening chandeliers, intricate woodwork, marble fireplaces, and thoughtfully curated furniture, including plush, elegant sofas—all a true feast for the eyes.

Bianco describes the fare served at the Sunday teas.  “A typical tea menu will include petit fours, scones and clotted cream with ingredients like pear butter, brie and apple, or smoked salmon mousse with salmon roe and chives,” said Bianco.

The public is also invited to dine at the mansion from Monday through Wednesday. “We put together a small plate menu with items like wagyu beef sliders with truffled goat cheese and pork-braised onions on grilled brioche and will soon will be switching to a spring menu,” said Bianco, adding that the porch will be open when warmer weather arrives.

Myers Welsh said that there’s much more to look forward to. “We’ll be starting a supper club that will take place around nine times a year with a fixed menu,” she said. As for additional announcements, Myers Welsh advises the public to keep an eye on social media for updates. “We’re looking forward to hosting more new and exciting events in the future,” she said.

The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion is located at 1100 W Grantham Rd, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055. Learn more by visiting the website at https://ashcombemansion.com/.