Beaufort South Carolina: One of the Lowcountry's Most Charming Coastal Towns

A late fall visit to Beaufort (pronounced BYOO-fert) offered the chance to experience the coastal town after the bustle of tourist season had faded and the heat and humidity had eased.

Beaufort is located on Port Royal Island, between Charleston and Savannah, along South Carolina's southern coast. Surrounded by salt marches and tidal creeks, the city is part of the Sea Islands, a region known for its natural beauty. Although I once wrote for Sea Island Life magazine, I realized--somewhat to my surprise--that this was my first time truly experiencing Sea Island life firsthand.

History Abounds

Beaufort's scenic waterfront.

Founded in 1711, Beaufort is the second-oldest city in South Carolina. Its walkable downtown is a designated National Historic Landmark District, with many well-preserved buildings dating to the 18th and 19th centuries. Unlike many Southern towns, Beaufort emerged from the Civil War with much of its architecture intact--partially because it was captured early, sparing it from retaliatory destruction.

The scenic waterfront is a favorite among visitors for its park and promenade with sweeping views of the marsh which stretches towards the horizon. Unfortunately, we missed strolling there at sunset when the skies glow with colors of gold and pink and shrimp boats drift quietly by.

We rented a lovely and very old AIRBNB in a residential neighborhood that was just a short drive from  downtown, which served as a comfortable base for our overnight stay.

A lovely old rental was our base camp.

In the afternoon, we explored Bay Street, in the heart of downtown, where boutique shopping, waterfront dining, coffee shops and galleries line the street. Boat excursions and kayaking trips were available, but we opted to save those for another visit, given the short length of our stay.

The John Mark Verdier House built in 1804. It now serves as a house museum.

Old Bay Marketplace, an artisan and specialty market.

Rightside Design, Gallery and Gift Shop

I loved so much in this little shop that sold beautiful glass art.

One shop in particular caught my attention was RightSide Design gallery and gift shop filled with beautiful glass art that made lingering inevitable.

After an afternoon of sightseeing, we relaxed at the Old Bull Tavern, housed in a building that was once a general store in the 1800s before becoming a tavern and eventually the popular restaurant it is today.

The Old Bull Tavern was once a general store in the 1800s.

Following dinner, we continued our stroll along the oft-photographed waterfront. Everything was so quiet in November, which made me consider returning during a lively season to see it at its most animated. 

A candy shop.

Along the way, we passed the Beaufort Candy Shoppe and Superior Coffee showcasing classic Lowcountry architecture with its raised covered porches, wide overhangs, and light-colored siding--design features meant to provide shade and airflow and protect against coastal weather.

The Superior Coffee Shop

A pair of cute rainboots as street art.

Whimsical street art, including a pair of brightly painted rain boots, added a playful touch to the walk. As dusk approached, we passed by Luther's Rare & Well Done, a longtime casual hangout that, during busier months, draws crowds to its patio for sunset views. Nearby, Saltus River Grill's expansive patio hinted at the area's more upscale dining options, particularly known for seafood and steaks.

Luther's Rare and Well Done.

Saltus River Grill patio.

The Beaufort Water Festival is a big draw in the summer.

We also came across signage for The Beaufort Water Festival. Founded in 1956, the 10-day event begins in late July and is one of South Carolina's oldest festivals. It features a boat parade, live concerts, arts and crafts for kids, water races, low-country fare, fireworks and more.

A bust of Thomas Heywood, Jr.

We also passed by a bust of Thomas Heywood, Jr., who was a signer of the Declaration of Independence and a Revolutionary War officer. Many places throughout South Carolina bear his name.

The Marina Ship's Store at Safe Harbor.

Near the marina, we passed the Ship's Store at Safe Harbor, a stop for boaters and visitors alike. 

By the end of the day it was clear that Beaufort rewards unhurried exploration and we found ourselves already discussing plans to return and discover more of what this town has to offer. 

Myrtle Beach for Landlubbers

If you're puzzled about the title of this blog post, allow me to explain. I've never been a sunworshipper due to my fair skin and I've always been too uncomfortable and impatient to even "work" on a tan. In fact, a colleague who was observing a photo of myself and my husband on my desk remarked years ago that I "looked like a mime." I will agree that I was a bit washed out there, but I still considered that comment a tad harsh.

So if you're the type who exclusively enjoys sandy beaches and riding waves, this post might not be for you. However, it you want to save some money, avoid the crowds and visit Myrtle Beach in an off season, you'll be happy to know that there's plenty to do in the area, from watching live shows, to taking an educational e-cruise, to touring a large sculpture garden and more. 

What surprised me the most as a first-time visitor was how sprawling the area was. In fact, we spent quite a bit of time in the car driving back and forth to destinations. Two landmarks in the area are Barefoot Landing and Broadway at the Beach and each is about 20 minutes away from each other. 

The few suggestions below are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to everything you can do in the Myrtle Beach area--without ever setting a bare foot on the beach.

The Myrtle Beach Boardwalk

Broadway at the Beach

Broadway at the Beach attracts an astonishing 11 million visitors a year. I learned this fact when I returned home my trip and suddenly I was glad that we visited in mid-April, when the crowds hadn't ballooned yet.

The 350-acre complex is a boon to shoppers, who can browse from among 100 specialty shops and foodies have their choice of about 20 restaurants. Some of the more familiar places include Landry's Seafood House, Senor Frog's, Paula Deen's Family Kitchen and the Hard Rock Cafe. And for the kids and those who are kids at heart, Broadway at the Beach features 20 amusement rides in three different parks.

On our first day there, we planned four activities at Broadway at the Beach, all of which were quite entertaining. This was a good thing because in mid-April the temperature had only reached the high 50s, so we were quite happy to enjoy time indoors.

Our first stop was Ripley's Aquarium where we saw stingrays (which kids can pet), sharks swimming overhead in see-through aquariums, and perky penguins with nametags waddling around, which is a highlight for many. Those who pay an extra fee can be taken behind the scenes where they can touch the cute little creatures and learn more about them.

Guests, for an extra fee, can learn more about penguins and have the opportunity to touch them.

Young and old alike enjoy the Ripley's Aquarium experience.

The stingray encounter is another popular exhibit.

Another destination at Broadway at the Beach features the Simpsons, a 4-D experience that is entertaining for both young and old alike. Upon arrival, we were directed to stand with Homer, Marge and Maggie for a complimentary photo before entering the theater for the show, which included puffs of air and moving seats, for a truly fun experience. Each mini-episode lasted between 10-15 minutes and there were plenty of jokes for adults. When we visited, Ayn Rand starred as a school administrator who refused to candycoat kids' talents, or lack thereof. I enjoyed the humor and the trip to the Kwik-E-Mart afterwards where "Lard Lad," donuts were for sale.

The Simpsons 4-D is fun for all ages.

After the shows, kids can enjoy a "Lard Lad," donut.

By this time, it was lunch so we headed to another destination that is a hit with families: Dave & Buster's.  When we visited, people of all ages seemed to be having a good time playing arcade games, virtual reality games, air hockey, tabletop games, claw games and more.

When I visit entertainment complexes like this I sometimes worry that the food will get short shrift, but I have to say that my husband and I really enjoyed our lunches. He opted for the fish and chips and I ordered the Korean chicken and we highly recommend both.

Our final stop at Broadway at the Beach was Wonderworks--otherwise known as the "upside-down house," where the exterior alone is a draw. 

The unique exterior of Wonderworks.

Wonderworks is another destination where families can spend hours engaging in educational entertainment. Inside are more than 100 exhibits divided into several zones: the extreme weather zone, the physical challenge zone, the light and sound zone, the space discovery zone, the imagination lab and the wonderworks art gallery. 

Experiencing high winds in a hurricane shack, feeling how cold the water was when the Titanic sank and jumping on keys to play a large piano like in the movie Big are just a few of the activities we observed people enjoying. If I had to choose, I'd say my favorite part of the visit was the 6-D extreme motion theater experience. Be sure you're strapped in!

Barefoot Landing

Barefoot Landing on the Waterway is where tourists can spend hours shopping, eating and dining. It is a smaller version of Broadway at the Beach with familiar retail shops like Build-a-Bear, Sunglass Hut, Ron Jon Surf Shop and other smaller independent retail shops.

We visited Barefoot Landing to take a 1.5-hour cruise on a 70-foot authentic wooden riverboat known as the Barefoot Queen, where we enjoyed dinner and a singer who often got the crowd involved. We even met a few new friends while watching the world go by from the back of the boat. 

The Barefoot Queen is a 70-foot authentic wooden riverboat.

Just one of the beautiful properties we saw during our cruise.

We returned to Barefoot Landing the following day to have dinner at a fun dinner place called LuLu's, which serves seafood, salads, sandwiches and cocktails and is owned by Jimmy Buffet's sister. Plenty of parrotheads make sure to stop there to eat while in the area. There they can listen to live music and hear the hits of Jimmy Buffet that play over the soundsystem. After dinner we visited their onsite gift shop to purchase a delicious hot sauce called "Perfect Pepper," that we tasted during dinner.

Lulu's is a popular dining destination owned by Jimmy Buffet's sister.

Stroll the Boardwalk

The boardwalk at Myrtle Beach is 1.8-miles long and features shops, restaurants and rooftop bars, all within view of the beach. I was surprised to later learn that the boardwalk is relatively new, having been built in 2010. It took nine months to complete at a cost of $6.5 million.

During our time there, we visited Ripley's Believe It or Not! Odditorium. If you've read my previous blogs, you might be aware that I always make time for Ripley's when I'm out of town. I'm never disappointed at the quirky collections designed to amaze and amuse, like this gorilla comprised of old tires, a portrait of "The Rock" made of cigar ash and a horse created out of computer keys.

This gorilla that greets guests upon arrival is made of tires.

A horse crafted of computer keys.

Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson made with cigar ash.

Another highlight of the boardwalk area is a famous honky-tonk bar called "The Bowery," where Alabama played as the house band before they were launched into super stardom. The Bowery will celebrate 80 years in business next February, so they must be doing something right. The building exterior which was once brick is now wood, but the interior has stayed the same throughout the years.

The outside of the Bowery.

An antique Schlitz light fixture.

The interior of The Bowery where the band Alabama got their start.

People were eating outside when we visited and the inside was closed until the evening when the place starts hopping as bands take the stage. When I explained why I was there to a waitress on staff, she kindly allowed me access to take a peak inside and snap a few photos.

Off the Beaten Path

We learned about the Murrell's Inlet ecosystem alongside charter school students.

A short drive from Myrtle Beach to Murrell's Inlet will take you to a marina for an eco-tour to learn more about the area and its wildlife. The 1.5-hour trip is interesting and educational and makes a pit stop at a small beach so visitors can walk around, dip their feet in the water, or merely collect shells.

Our guide shows us a sea urchin.

During our cruise, we learned alongside students who were there with a charter school. I even made bold to hold a sea urchin. Its little eyes made me sad, so I was glad that they threw him back in after passing him around. I also learned about jellyfish that they call "cannonballs" which don't sting. Our intrepid guide even licked it to prove this fact as the slime dripped down his arm. I passed on holding that one---no thanks! 

A jellyfish called a "cannonball."

Other interesting tidbits that were new to me is that sand dollars stand to eat and that soft coral, which the guide holds in the photo above, is called carrageenan and is used in many ice-cream products. "The Hershey company uses the most," he said, giving a little shout-out to my native state of Pennsylvania.

Another destination that is a bit off the beaten path, just south of Murrell's Inlet, is Brookgreen Gardens, an area so beautiful that I haven't enough superlatives to describe it. Lovely, fascinating and the best sculpture garden I've ever seen are my lame attempts at praise. I never thought any sculpture garden would beat New Jersey's Grounds for Sculpture, but this one knocks them down to second place. 

The 9,100-acre property, in addition to featuring sculptures, is also a wildlife preserve with a Zoo onsite, which we unfortunately lacked time to see, nor did we check out the $10 boat ride, which sounded like fun.

When it was all said and done, I had snapped about 65 photos and there were still more statues around every corner in this world-class outdoor museum. It's no wonder that Brookgreen Gardens has been designated among the top 10 Botanical Gardens in America. The destination has also received a Garden of Excellence Award from the American Public Garden Association. 

A Gallery onsite is also part of admission. When we visited, Rodin was featured. 

Brookgreen Gardens features a gallery onsite.

 

Brookgreen Gardens is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily.

Take in a Show

On our last night, we decided to take in a show at the Carolina Opry, which celebrates its 37th season this year. The theater seats 2,200 and features state-of-the-art lighting and sound. We certainly weren't disappointed. On the bill was "Time Warp" a variety show with top-notch performers featuring music from the 60s, 70s, and 80s.  

Jordan Gilmore Watkins, Director of Marketing, said that when his father opened the theater in 1986, the idea of a variety show was unheard of and the town practically rolled up the sidewalks at night. "There were plenty of restaurants and mini golf courses, but nothing for the family to do together in the evening," he said. Evidently he was onto something because the venue is still going strong decades later as people are drawn to its world-class shows.

It's not often that I visit a place that has a seemingly endless amount of things to do, but Myrtle Beach certainly fits the bill.

Hopefully these few ideas that I've listed here will pique your interest enough to arrange a visit.