Bavaria in the Blue Ridge

It's official--I'm now a South Carolina resident. Moving wasn't easy, but we did it and we're finally settled in enough now to turn our attention to travel. One pleasant surprise? Flights to Florida are much cheaper from Greenville and the airport is only 15 minutes away--all good stuff!

Still, my first "away" adventure was inspired by something closer to home. While flipping through travel brochures, one destination stood out--a town that looked like it belonged in the Alps, rather than here in the American South. In a mere two hours, we discovered that we could be in the midst of a Bavarian-style village, complete with restaurants, charming shops and architecture one might encounter on an excursion to Germany.

The History of Helen

The Helen Arts & Heritage Center

The first stop I recommend is the Helen Arts & Heritage Center to view a short film on the background of the town. Helen was founded in the early 1900s when lumber reigned supreme. (It was named after the daughter of a Byrd-Matthews lumber company official.) By the late 1960s, lumber was on its way out and the town was struggling economically.

Clearly the town needed a way to thrive economically, which led a few local businessmen to invite an artist from nearby Clarksville to help reimagine the town. John Kollock, drawing from his experiences in Germany while in the military, suggested transforming Helen into a Bavarian-style village, complete with alpine architecture and murals. Merchants and craftsmen embraced the idea and began remodeling their storefronts with classic Old World details. By 1970, the transformation was complete and the town launched its first Oktoberfest, which was a great success. This led more shops to begin selling German beer, food and crafts. Soon, the national news was taking notice. Today it's a popular destination, attracting 1.5 million visitors annually.

After viewing the film at the Arts & Heritage Center visitors can take the opportunity to peruse the rooms that showcase the region's many talented artists. 

Art on display at the Helen Arts & Heritage Center

Restaurants, shops and more

Situated throughout the walkable town, a bevy of shops sell everything from German beer, food, apparel, gifts and more.

 

A rare picture of me taken by my husband.

Don't Miss Anna Ruby Falls

Just outside town in the Chattahoochee National Forest lies Anna Ruby Falls. The Visitors Center offers restrooms, a gift shop and educational exhibits.

The Visitor Center provides restrooms, a gift shop and educational exhibits.

From there a paved, half-mile trail (steep in spots) leads to the twin cascades,  It took us about 25 minutes to make it to falls that are named after the daughter of a settler who owned the land.

The U.S. Forest Service, which manages the area, requires a small entrance fee to help maintain the site. Along the trail, visitors can read more about the scenery through interpretive signs and take a break on one of the many benches that dot the trail.

The beautiful payoff at the end.

At the end of the hike, visitors will see the falls that are formed where two creeks--Curtis and York--merge, creating twin cascades that drop 153 feet and 50 feet.

The General Store

Betty's General Store is a local gem for provisions and offers anything anyone needs for camping or staying a few days at a hotel--from fresh-cut meats, to cheeses, jerky, beer, wine and more.

Restaurant Recommendations

Two standout restaurants during our stay were Cowboys & Angels and Bodensee. Cowboys and Angels are known for their steaks and I certainly enjoyed mine. The family-run restaurant has been a fixture in the area since 2015.

Sirloin, corn and sweet potato at Cowboys & Angels.

We couldn't leave Helen, Georgia without experiencing some authentic German food, however. When we chose Bodensee, we were hoping for a good experience. In a town full of German food, we weren't sure what to expect. It turns out we were quite delighted with both the food and the service. We tried the sampler for two comprised of Sauerbraten, Schwein Braten, Beef Roll, Smoked Pork Chop, Garlic Wurst, and Pork Schnitzel served with Spätzle, Sauerkraut, Red Cabbage, and Potato Salad and topped with gravies. Everything was so delicious that we will definitely return again for the experience. Since visiting, I learned that the chef went to culinary school in Romania and later spent years in Germany honing his craft before moving to Helen. 

Final Thoughts

With its unique backstory, Old World Charm and natural beauty, Helen makes for a memorable getaway. Whether you're there for the history, the hiking, or the hearty German meals, this little village in the Georgia mountains is certainly worth the trip.

Preserving History in Pa: Mechanicsburg's Ashcombe Mansion

At a time when “development” often takes precedence over preservation, Deborah Myers Welsh is grateful to have been in the right place at the right time to save the historic Ashcombe mansion in Mechanicsburg.

A stunning house, built in 1892 and nestled on 22 acres, the Queen Anne Victorian boasts classic period details--steeply pitched roofs, a vibrant color scheme which helps one understand why Victorians were called “painted ladies,” large bay windows, a wraparound porch and a prominent round turret making it evocative of the Rapunzel fairytale.

“A developer was going to tear it down to make way for 50 homes,” said Myers Welsh.

How It All Began

The stately abode isn’t entirely unique in its origins in that it was built by someone who had some standing in the community. In this case, that would be the Honorable Henry G. Moser, iron manufacturer, legislator and county judge. Moser built it as a summer house for his beloved wife, Margaret Moser.

The home remained in the Moser family for 93 years until it began operating as a bed and breakfast in 1984. After the B&B business ceased operations, the mansion sat vacant for nearly eight years until Myers Welsh purchased the property saving it from the wrecking ball.

For Myers Welsh it’s been a passion project. “I am an attorney by trade, serving as in-house general counsel to healthcare companies, but when our daughter went off to college, I decided to take it on. I’ve always loved the hospitality business,” she said.

She began renovations in 2018 and completed them about a year later. “We added on the portico and circular porch, the hallway entrance and a sunroom, which was an old enclosed porch. We also installed a commercial kitchen, restrooms and a Sperry tent,” said Myers Welsh. For those unfamiliar with the term, a Sperry tent is a high-end handcrafted sailcloth tent known for its elegant and airy appearance. The 6,000 square-foot, custom-made tent is attached to the building. “It accommodates more than 300 guests and we think of it more as a ballroom. It has permanent heating and air conditioning and a black-and-white checkered floor,” explains Myers Welsh.

Five rooms in the mansion are available for rent, typically in conjunction with events like weddings.

The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion

Today, the mansion operates as an event venue known as “The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion.” The name “Ashcombe” means “grove of ashes,” a nod to the ash trees that stood on the property. Unfortunately, due to blight, many had to be removed. “We were able to save some and new tree plantings have already taken place, including the planting of several willow trees, hence the name,” said Myers Welsh.

Bringing In a Chef

Myers Welsh hired Harrisburg resident Anthony Bianco about a year ago to act as manager and executive chef. Bianco had previously worked at the Hilton. “We started out with a catering company and were a BYO facility, but now we handle everything in-house. It allows us to serve our patrons more efficiently when food is prepared onsite, which is how we set ourselves apart from other wedding venues,” said Myers Welsh.

More recently, The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion has opened its doors to the public for English-style teas on Sundays. A glimpse of the interior alone is worth the visit, with ornate ceiling medallions supporting glistening chandeliers, intricate woodwork, marble fireplaces, and thoughtfully curated furniture, including plush, elegant sofas—all a true feast for the eyes.

Bianco describes the fare served at the Sunday teas.  “A typical tea menu will include petit fours, scones and clotted cream with ingredients like pear butter, brie and apple, or smoked salmon mousse with salmon roe and chives,” said Bianco.

The public is also invited to dine at the mansion from Monday through Wednesday. “We put together a small plate menu with items like wagyu beef sliders with truffled goat cheese and pork-braised onions on grilled brioche and will soon will be switching to a spring menu,” said Bianco, adding that the porch will be open when warmer weather arrives.

Myers Welsh said that there’s much more to look forward to. “We’ll be starting a supper club that will take place around nine times a year with a fixed menu,” she said. As for additional announcements, Myers Welsh advises the public to keep an eye on social media for updates. “We’re looking forward to hosting more new and exciting events in the future,” she said.

The Willows at Ashcombe Mansion is located at 1100 W Grantham Rd, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055. Learn more by visiting the website at https://ashcombemansion.com/.

 

 

 

 

48 Hours in Pittsburgh: Making the Most of Every Moment

Located in Western Pennsylvania and situated at the confluence of the Monongahela, Allegheny and Ohio Rivers, the scenic city of Pittsburgh is basks in well-deserved accolades as a must-see destination.

Harper’s Bazaar named it one of the Best Places to Travel for its award-winning restaurants, vibrant arts and culture scene, and world-class accommodations.

Choosing from among the many attractions is the difficult part, but getting there is easy. Most destinations are located within 20 minutes of the downtown area. Less time commuting and more time enjoying is certainly a plus when schedules are tight during a short getaway.

Staying in the Heart of the Action

Omni William Penn

First-time guests of the Omni William Penn Hotel are often mesmerized by the beauty of the opulent lobby, with its crystal chandeliers, oversized archways, and a floor that mingles marble from seven different countries. Built by Pittsburgh industrialist Henry Clay Frick and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the hotel dates back to 1916 and still exudes much of that old-world charm. The icing on the cake is that it’s conveniently located within a short drive of many destinations.

There are a number of activities to enjoy while staying at the Omni, from kayaking, to biking, to touring and dining at any of the restaurants perched atop the Duquesne Incline. No visit is complete without a trip to Grandview Avenue’s Mount Washingtons' Restaurant Row, where diners are treated to spectacular views of downtown, especially as the sun sets.

The Omni also provides guests with its own dining options, from the elegantly appointed and upscale Terrace Room, with its original molded plaster ceiling and mahogany arches and creative American cuisine, to the more casual Taproom. Once deemed “The Continental,” the Taproom dates back to 1934 and is one of two “Repealatoriums” that opened in the hotel after Prohibition ended.

Tucked away beneath the stairs of the grand lobby is another celebratory toast to the end of Prohibition. The Speakeasy, named among the 12 Most Essential Bars by Thrillist, with its cozy ambiance and plush red-velvet décor is a welcome respite for guests seeking a place to relax with their favorite libation.  

Taking a Tour

Pittsburgh is all about choices and finding a tour tailored to one’s interests is as easy as consulting a concierge, or AI these days.

The one-hour Gateway Clipper tour traverses the three rivers and treats visitors to a beautiful view of the city, while providing them a unique glimpse into Pittsburgh’s past and future via onboard narrators. It’s a 15-minute walk from the hotel and an interesting way to view the architecture of the city and our bridges.

For the foodie, there’s “Burgh Bits and Bites," which takes guests on a walking tour to their choice of several different neighborhoods, including Pittsburgh’s acclaimed Strip District. The excursion convenes in Old St. Patrick’s Church courtyard. Sylvia McCoy, tour founder, offers guests a “behind-the-counter” peek at a variety of eateries in Pittsburgh’s market district. “The Strip District features an array of cuisines, from Asian, to Polish, Greek, Italian, Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, all on one street,” she says.

And no trip to Pittsburgh is complete without a ride on the famous Duquesne Incline, which is a historic funicular railway located at 1197 W. Carson Street.  The Incline was designed by Samuel Diesher, a Hungarian-American civil engineer based in Pittsburgh and was completed in 1877 It offers scenic views of the city and its three rivers, including the Allegheny, Ohio and Monongahela.  

An Insider Tip: Exit the incline, turn to the right and head up the hill to view the spectacular “Point of View” sculpture, which features George Washington and the Seneca leader Guyasuta. It conveys what their face-to-face meeting may have been like in 1770 while Washington was in the area examining land for future settlement along the Ohio River. The two-minute walk from the Incline is worth it for the unobstructed view of the skyline alone.

George Washington and Seneca Leader Guy Asuta.

Nature, History and Art Abound in Oakland

One can spend an entire day in Oakland soaking in the exhibits at Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, Carnegie Museum of Art and the Carnegie Museum of Natural History. All are conveniently located within walking distance of each other, making it easy to mix and match as time permits.

Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens

Phipps dates back to 1893 and is often described as one of Pittsburgh’s “crown jewels.” Visitors are often in awe of the striking botanical displays, many of which change throughout the year. Phipps Conservatory is also one of those places you can visit multiple times each year for their seasonal flower shows.

Phipps also has the distinction of being LEED™ platinum certified. Designed to be the greenest building in the world, Phipps generates all of its own energy and treats storm and sanitary water on site.

The Children’s Discovery Garden is a big hit with the kids and is designed to attract birds, butterflies, and bees. It also includes a bog garden, a sensory garden, and outdoor spaces to entertain and enlighten the youngsters.

Allocate approximately 90 minutes to tour the indoor and outdoor gardens, which feature stunning displays of plants ranging from palm trees, to orchids, bonsai and cacti, to name just a few.

Insider Tip: To avoid crowds, plan to visit on a Monday or Tuesday.

Carnegie Museum of Art

It’s easy to spend hours roaming the halls of the Carnegie Museum of Art (CMOA), so if this destination is at the top of your list, you may wish to get an early start by visiting when doors open at 10 a.m.

The impressive collection exists courtesy of Andrew Carnegie, a wealthy industrialist/philanthropist and proud Pittsburgher who envisioned opening up the art world to all segments of society.

The 110,570-foot space is comprised of 33 galleries which feature approximately 1,800 works of art at any given time.  Painting and sculpture, prints and drawings, photographs, architectural casts and film and video are all represented under one roof, ensuring that the museum offers something for every taste.

Artists run the gamut from Van Gogh, to Matisse, Picasso, Warhol and more.

A unique exhibit featuring a piece of furniture that is universally pressed into service is the chair collection, which celebrates the diversity of chair design from the 17^th Century to the present.

Also notable is the cast of the West Portal of Saint-Gilles-du-Gard located in the Hall of Architecture. Paid for by Andrew Carnegie at the recommendation of art experts, it is said to be the largest architectural cast ever made.

The Carnegie Museum of Natural History

Adjacent to the CMOA is the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, also founded by Andrew Carnegie. Ranked among the top five natural history museums in the United States, it boasts a collection of 22 million specimens, 10,000 of which are on view at any given time.

The family friendly destination features an array of dinosaurs and mammals, fossils, mummies and more, which are sure to intrigue guests of all ages.

Don’t miss the Hall of Gems for a dizzying array of rocks and minerals.

Insider Tip: The price of admission to both museums is reduced to half off after 3 p.m. on weekdays.

These are just a few of the many options available in a city where choices abound and making the most of every moment is limited only by the imagination of the visitor.

Photo Credits:

Gateway Clipper (with picture of bridge) Courtesy: Gateway Clipper/Visit Pittsburgh

Omni William Penn, Courtesy: Omni Hotels and Resorts

Duquesne Incline: Credit: Richard Nowitz