A Weekend Trip to Electric City

The Lackawanna County Courthouse in Scranton was built in 1884.

Scrantonians have a saying: "All roads lead to Scranton." I'm not sure how true that is, but I can attest that several of my relatives called Scranton their hometown. I visited the area about three years ago seeking to set eyes on the grave of my great-grandparents on my father's side. At the time, I made the mistake of looking in the wrong town for the cemetery. Later, my dear husband did a little more investigating so we returned and this time ready to look in the right place. I'm happy to say that we found them in a little Ukrainian Orthodox resting place located near the Scranton/Taylor line.

A photo of me and great grandpop back in the day.

You can read about my great-grandfather and my first trip to the Scranton area here. 

What we also missed on that last visit was the beautiful, repurposed Lackawanna Train Station, several wineries, a meadery, an "Office" tour, some great Mofongo and the many interesting little creatures that can be seen at the Scranton Aquarium.

A Train Station Turned Hotel

Scranton started out with an agriculturally based economy, but transitioned to a mining economy in the late 1840's with the construction of the city's iron mills.This led to the manufacture of iron rails, which formerly had been imported from England. The 1850's and 1860's saw the emergence of railroad lines, including those that would form the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad, all of which contributed to Scranton's economic strength. The railroad service paved the way for coal mining and Scranton, having one of the largest stores of anthracite coal in the world, benefited from the ability to distribute the region's coal and iron products throughout the United States. As the railroad prospered, so did Scranton and the city's wood-frame train station was replaced with a Victorian-style brick station in 1864.

In 1899, the new President of the D.L.W. launched plans to remodel the entire rail line and soon plans were in the works for a new passenger station and railroad headquarters in Scranton. The new building would replace the existing brick station and a competition was held to select an architect. Kenneth Murchison's reputation preceded him and he was chosen for the job. The New York City architect was already known for train station design, having drawn up plans for terminals at Buffalo, Baltimore and Hoboken. Ground was broken in 1906 and the end result made headlines as one of the most beautiful stations in the nation. Built in the French Renaissance style, with six columns facing the front, it was an imposing structure.

The train station during the day.

The train station, which now serves the public as a Radisson Hotel, is lit up at night.

The interior was no less impressive. The two-and-a-half-stories high waiting room was capped by a barrel-vaulted ceiling of leaded glass, its walls crafted of Sienna marble and its floors of terrazzo tiles.

The station was officially dedicated on November 11, 1908, when a trainload of  D.L.&W. officials, headed by D.L.W. President William Truesdale, arrived in Scranton from New York. Following the ceremony, an open house was held to allow local citizens a glimpse of the new facility.

The ticket counter located to the right of the entrance.

The leaded glass ceiling.

Beautiful woodwork in an area which leads to the elevators.

The hotel bar.

In the early 1980's, plans were afoot by city leaders to redevelop the train station and in 1982, the building was purchased by MetroAction, a Scranton Chamber of Commerce Corporation focused on downtown development. With a combination of private, public and business funding,  a $13 million renovation was underway and in 1983 the business opened on New Years Eve as a Hilton, with musical entertainment provided by the Guy Lombardo Orchestra. A decade later, the building was purchased by DanMar Hotel Inc and now operates as a Radisson.

Learn more about the History of Railroading at Steamtown

Within walking distance from the Radisson, is a destination for those who are interested in learning more about the history and technology of steam railroading, Steamtown, located in downtown Scranton, is run by the National Park Service (NPS). The 65-acre site operates at the former Scranton yards of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Railroad (DL&W). NPS developed Steamtown by using existing portions of the Roundhouse (dating from 1902, 1917 and 1937), as part of the museum complex, adding to it a visitor center, a theater and a technology and history museum. 

A highlight of any trip to Steamtown is a ride on the vintage train.

(Photos courtesy of the National Park Service.)

The 250-seat Surround Sound theater at Steamtown offers visitors a glimpse into the life of a railroader with its 18-minute film called “Steel and Steam.” The History Museum provides guests with a railroading timeline from the early days of rail through the 1980s. The technology museum houses a steam locomotive, caboose and boxcar and explores some of the more technical aspects of railroading from using steam, to operating signals and learning railroad jargon.

A highlight of the visit for many is the 30-minute ride on a vintage train.

To learn more about hours, prices and upcoming events, visit Steamtown’s website at https://www.nps.gov/stea/index.htm.

Lift a Glass to the Wineries

The tasting room at Lucchi Family Wine Cellars.

Scranton is home to several wineries and a meadery. Locate on Main Street is the Lucchi Family Wine Cellars located at 134 W. Main Avenue. Robert Lucchi is the son of the late Mario Lucchi and Catherine Ravioli Lucchi. His parents immigrated from Bologna, Italy to settle in Scranton in the early 1900’s where Robert learned by helping his father at a very young age. Today, Robert and his son Mark work together to bring their award-winning wine to the public.

Further down the road a bit, in Dunmore, is Space Time Mead and Cider Works. President and winemaker Dan Schreffler has won several awards, including some won at the Mazer Cup International, which Schreffler calls the "Olympics of Mead."

The tasting room at Space Time Mead and Cider Works.

Mead, one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to man, is experiencing a resurgence in popularity and Schreffler is always happy to help customers choose one that they will enjoy.

Snakes, Sharks and Psychedelic Frogs, Oh My!

Scranton is also home to a small mall called "The MarketPlace at Steamtown," where you'll find a Boscovs, Shoe Dept., Starbucks, Auntie Anne's and other chain stores, but it's not often one finds an aquarium in a mall. 

This groovy looking little guy is poisonous. As they say, "Beware of the pretty ones.

This Vietnamese Mossy Frog is bound to scare the unsuspecting.

The Electric City Aquarium & Reptile Den spans 20,000 square feet and is home to a litany of sea creatures and reptiles that captivate both young and old. During our visit, we saw frogs, more fish than I can enumerate, lizards, snakes, stingrays, and much more. Everywhere we turned there seem to be an exhibit that elicited oohs and aahs from the crowd. Below is a little taste of what to expect.

Regular hours are Monday through Sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., excluding major holidays. Visit the website for feeding times and ticket purchases.

A Self-Guided Office Tour

Fans of the sitcom "The Office" may enjoy the self-guided walking tour that is available here at the VisitNePa.org website.  Fair warning, however. "The Office" was mostly filmed in Los Angeles. I don't want folks to visit there thinking that they'll see quite a few sites relative to the sitcom. That happened to me in Punxutawny, Pennsylvania when I visited thinking I'd see the stomping grounds of Bill Murray in Groundhog Day. I learned afterwards that Groundhog Day was mostly filmed in a town in Indiana.  However, Bill Murray is the only cast member of the film to ever visit "Punxy" after production. Back to Scranton! There are a few places in Scranton that Office fans will recognize, like watering holes and restaurants favored by the Dunder Mifflin staff like Poor Richards Pub and Alfredo's pizza cafe.

If you saw Dwight and Michael rap about Scranton being the "Electric City" and wondered what that was all about, you might be interested to learn that electric lights were introduced to the public in 1880 at Dickson Locomotive Works, which paved the way for electric streetcars. If you visit Scranton, you''ll see the gorgeous Electric City neon sign downtown and if you venture out at night, you can't miss it.

Good Eats!

Anyone who knows me well is aware of my affinity for mofongo. The Dominican Republic dish made with fried plantains and cracklings is a delicious carb bomb that I happen to love. In my area, it's hard to come across, so I didn't expect to be able to indulge in Scranton. Boy, was I surprised. Located at 1001 S. Main Avenue is Wanda's Mofongo House. I'm glad I was paying attention earlier in the day or I would have missed it. If you've never tasted mofongo, this would be a great place to order it. I thoroughly enjoyed my meal there.

Mofongo with chicharron de pollo 

If mofongo isn't your thing, you can also order items like quesadillas, pork chops, roasted chicken, steaks and seafood. Wanda's is open seven days a week for both lunch and dinner.

Another place we visited while in the area was a little off the beaten path, but we loved the outside atmosphere and the food, even though we had to park about half a mile away. 

That place, located in Simpson, Pennsylvania, is about a half-hour drive from Scranton and when we drove up to it, we were shocked, thinking perhaps a carnival was in town. Cars lined each side of the narrow street for blocks. We soon discovered that they were all there as customers of Frank's Place.  I guess they were on to something. It turns out that the old-school Italian eatery has been around and in the same family since 1968 and serves delicious, simple food for a reasonable price.

Our delicious entrees at Frank's Place in Simpson, Pa. 

Cheese-stuffed pasta.

Outside seating at Frank's Place. 

We enjoyed our trip to Scranton and found plenty to do during our all-too-short stay there and I might also mention that most places were open and operating as usual, despite Covid. My husband and I were especially glad to support the mom-and-pop operations that have taken the brunt of this pandemic. We just hope that more people will continue to do so as we transition to the winter months.

A Beautiful Change of Scenery at Maryland's Historic Eastern Shore

This has been a decidedly different summer and a markedly different year. Thanks COVID. These days I'm traveling less often and looking for different kinds of trips. Last month I enjoyed the serenity of the rural countryside of New Holland, Pennsylvania and this month I traveled to a remote region of rural Maryland. In both instances I was rather shocked to discover that both accommodations were TV free, which is something to be aware of if you plan to stay at either destination. I suppose this is the host's way of encouraging folks to enjoy the great outdoors and I can't say they were wrong, although I am capable of doing both, just sayin.' Nevertheless, both areas were beautiful in their own unique way and escaping house arrest is always exciting these days, no matter how you cut it.

What inspired me to visit rural Maryland was actually the Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art in Salisbury. I stumbled on a few stunning pictures of their collection while browsing Instagram and came to the conclusion I needed to see the collection in person and as I browsed pictures of the region, I learned that Maryland's eastern shore is picturesque, peaceful and private. The short, two-day getaway afforded us plenty of time to take in the scenery and enjoy a few destinations while in the area. 

Kayaking on the Serene Blackwater River

We've been experiencing a drought where I live, so imagine my surprise when it rained nonstop during the first day of our visit. Nonetheless, I made it out on the Blackwater River while getting just a bit wet and I'm glad that I did.

Watching wildlife is always enjoyable from the vantage point of a kayak and paddling through the calm, brackish waters of the Blackwater River is an easy way to take in the beauty of the Blackwater Wildlife Refuge. Matt Meredith’s family have been residents of the area since its founding in the mid-1600s and have been conducting tours at their business Blackwater Adventures for years.

If you’re a birdwatcher, this is where you’ll want to be. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot eagles, ospreys and heron, or have the opportunity to take a photo of an eagle’s nest like I did.

An eagle's nest perched in the crook of a tree.

A word of warning: Be sure to take a map along  because your cell phone may as well be a brick in this neck of the woods and you’re likely to get lost on the way to meet Matt. Don’t ask me how I know.

The Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art

Located at Salisbury University, the waterfront museum established in 1993 and inspired by talented decoy carvers Lem and Steve Ward, is comprised of six galleries, two which rotate periodically.

The Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art (courtesy of the Ward Museum)

Lem and Steve Ward are the two talented brothers who served as the inspiration for the museum.

What is unique about the museum is that most every piece of wildfowl art is crafted of wood, from majestic owls, to ducks which appear to be soaring in mid-flight.

This piece was carved of one block of wood by John Sharp of Kent, Ohio. It is called, "City Pigeons."

 

This one is called, "Curious wren" by John Sharp of Kent, Ohio.

 

This beautiful concept piece depicts an eagle chasing its prey. (both sides pictured)

Hawk and Pheasant by Grainger McCoy of North Carolina.

My favorite: bird, books, binoculars. It's called "Bird Watching" and is carved out of black walnut by John Sharp of Kent, Ohio.

A particularly detailed piece depicts a hawk, wings akimbo, striving to snatch a fleeing pheasant (see above). These representations of wildfowl are so stunning that visitors often marvel at the talent of the carver behind them. Wooden “feathers,” in particular, tend to elicit exclamations of awe for their realism. Many of the wildfowl appear to be in mid-flight, thanks to one well-placed rod—a limitation required to compete in the Ward World Championship held annually in Ocean City Maryland. The competition draws more than 1,000 artists annually who compete in exhibitions to showcase their work, with many of the award-winning pieces gaining a temporary home at the museum.

Guests are invited to watch a short film about the simple, down-to-earth Ward brothers before leaving. To gain a little insight into the minds of these talented artists, I'll leave you with this poem written by Stephen Ward.

Historic Accommodations

Located along the Wicomico River is the Whitehaven Hotel, built in 1810 as a private home. A ferry adjacent to the hotel dates back to 1685 and is known as the oldest publicly operated ferry in the country.  In the late 1800s, the village of Whitehaven was a bustling, vibrant community with shipyards, a canning factory, a school, a church and retail stores. 

Wildfowl are visible from the porch of the Whitehaven Hotel.

The demand for lodging necessitated the transformation of the private home into a hotel in 1877. The hotel was host to steamship passengers, which included salesmen who traveled among the farming communities. It also drew guests who arrived by horse and today it continues to connect the public to places like Quantico and Princess Anne.

A sitting room where guests can help themselves to wine and chocolate chip cookies.

This shot of the dining room reminds me of a Norman Rockwell painting.

The living room. 

Delicious breakfasts were a highlight of every morning.

Today, the hotel features eight guest rooms, with nary a television to be found. As for the internet? Let’s just say that if you recall “dial up,” then you can relate. Let’s just say your time will be better spent gliding through the water in a kayak on the Wicomico River, or relaxing on the spacious porch with a good book, or on a perch near the water while watching the ferry go by.

Good Eats

A 15-minute drive from the Whitehaven Hotel takes visitors to a longstanding, casual crab joint called “The Red Roost Crabhouse and Restaurant” which was established in the 1970's. 

Crab baskets are repurposed into light fixtures.

With trashcans at the end of tables for guests to sweep away detritus, you could say that the décor is more conducive to chowing down than ambiance. That matters not to customers who come from miles around to belly up to the picnic tables and eat their fill of shellfish and fried chicken for which the restaurant is known.

A good eatery near the Ward Museum in Salisbury is the Market Street Inn. They must be doing something right because they've been a fixture in the area since 1979 and in 2018 received the "Hall of Honor Award" from the Maryland Restaurant Association. Pictured is their version of deviled eggs and a Mediterranean salad.

The dining room at the Market Street Inn in Salisbury.

 

Another area favorite is a newer establishment: Evolution Craft Brewing Co. Public House in Salisbury. The micro-brewery and restaurant once housed an ice plant and since opening has won a number of awards, from “Best New Restaurant” in 2012, to “Best Raw Bar,” and “Best Craft Brewery.”

Other Area Attractions

Located about an hour’s drive from Whitehaven are the Assateague and Chincoteague Islands, both of which are known for wild horses that roam free on the beaches.

Those who wish to stay closer to home base can take the free ferry to Princess Anne in Somerset county. There visitors can tour the 200-year-old Teackle Mansion, constructed between 1802 and 1819 by Littleton Dennis Teackle for his wife Elizabeth Upshur Teackle, or take the historic walking tour of the town (the innkeeper can provide you with the pamphlet).

The Teackle Mansion was built between 1804 and 1819.

The living room of the Teackle mansion.

Also notable is an antique shop that benefits the historical society in the area. I always say that you can tell a lot about an area by browsing their antique shops. This one carried an impressive collection of decoys.

Getting away and unplugging from the bad news delivery system is sometimes good for what ails you, especially these days. I know that I returned much more relaxed and better able to take on life’s challenges thanks to a change of scenery and the simple serenity of a life unplugged.