Friday, April 13, 2018

A Tour of the Beautiful Hershey Theatre

program
Hershey Premiere Program (courtesy of the Hershey archives)

I happen to have the good fortune of living within just a few miles of Hershey, Pennsylvania, a small town made famous by that sweet treat that nearly everyone craves and where street lights are shaped like Hershey kisses.

During the summer, the town comes alive with families seeking to spend a fun-filled day at Hersheypark. Adult-oriented attractions include the Antique Auto Museum Club of America, which I've written about earlier for this blog, The Hershey Story , which celebrates the history of the town and its founder Milton Hershey, Hershey Gardens, (the subject of a future blog post) and the beautiful Hershey Theatre, to name just a few.

Despite attending many performances at the theatre, I'd never seen the place up close and personal absent a crush of people, that is until a few weeks ago when docent Terri Dorwart shined a light on little details and told the story of how the theatre came into existence. During the one-hour tour, I learned quite a bit about the beautiful building that has seen its fair share of stars over the years.

It's impossible to talk about the Hershey Theatre, however, without mentioning the man responsible. During the tour, I learned a few facts about the hard-working entrepreneur by the name of Milton Hershey, who conceived of the structure as a community treasure. It's hard to believe that the opulent and elegant building sprung from the mind of a man born into the Mennonite faith. Milton's mother, Veronica Snavely, just happened to be a clergyman's daughter, to boot. Despite this, "Fannie," as she was known, fell in love with Henry Hershey, a man whom many kindly refer to as a "dreamer." Henry never seemed content to stay in one place for very long. One story tells of him hauling the family to Titusville, Pennsylvania in 1860 to take advantage of the short-lived (yet fascinating) oil boom. When this venture failed, he returned to Lancaster County and bought a farm described by some as "rundown." He soon took off on the road and for all intents and purposes, the couple was separated. Throughout his life, Henry seemed to follow this pattern of coming and going as he pleased, often appearing back on the scene here and there to capitalize on Milton's success, and to work for him at times. This didn't seem to bother Milton much and when the old man died, Milton mourned his passing.

Milton was permitted to drop out of school at age 13, a surprising fact, given Fannie's penchant for discipline. Young Milton's first foray into the big world was when he took a job as a printer's apprentice. Not surprisingly, he struck out. His mother encouraged him to seek a different path in life, suggesting that he make something tangible and in demand. This inspired Milton to pursue a career in candy making and he began working under the tutelage of master confectioner Joseph Royer. 

Hershey eventually used his newfound knowledge to set up his own caramel making shop in Philadelphia, working long hours and struggling to make ends meet. Hershey had what many refer to as "stick-to-it-ive-ness." Each time his future would appear grim, he'd manage to show enough pluck to extricate himself from financial failure. Things finally took a turn for the better after a fortuitous trip to The Great Columbian Exhibition in Chicago. When he laid eyes on a chocolate-making machine from Germany, he saw his future and it included bringing chocolate to the masses. He arranged to have the operation disassembled and brought to Lancaster. "Caramels are a fad, but chocolate is permanent," Hershey was said to have uttered. The Biography Channel uncovers more information on the successful entrepreneur and philanthropist.

Thumbing his Nose at The Great Depression
Milton Hershey's grit and dogged determination played a huge role in his success.When the businessman began making money, he decided to create his own community, offering workers housing and gainful employment. It's been said that residents of Hershey suffered less than most other communities during The Great Depression, thanks to Milton S. Hershey, who was known to most often choose men over machines.

A Community Hub 
The Hotel Hershey, the Hersheypark Arena and the Hersheypark Stadium. The flurry of activity was especially remarkable since it all took place during an otherwise grim time known as The Great Depression.


The Grand Lobby

From the minute guests walk through the door of the Grand Lobby, they are enchanted by old world elegance, from the floor, which is laid with polished Italian lava rock, to the walls crafted of four different types of marble, both imported and domestic.
lobby
The Grand Lobby


lobby


Lobby
ceiling
Ornate ceilings are a focal point 
Theatregoers will miss much should they fail to "look up" to behold the beautifully crafted ceilings filled with bas-relief images of sheaves of wheat, swans and pastoral scenes. Apollo, the patron god of music, poetry and the arts is shown in his horse-drawn chariot.
Apollo


ceiling
art



The inner foyer's "canopy of gold" arched tile ceiling is indeed a stunner and reportedly took two German artisans two years to create. Pictures really don't do it justice.


mosaic
Canopy of gold arched tile ceiling took two German artisans two years to create.
mosaic
window
A beautiful stained glass window located on the second floor.

Inside the Auditorium



theatre


Zooming in on the Lion on the Main Stage.

The sides of the auditorium appear to be modeled to resemble the outer walls of a Byzantine castle, with walls of  pink granite and faux balconies on windowed towers. Unfortunately, I didn't have the opportunity to view the theatre's six-ton fire curtain displaying a water color of the city of Venice. 

Special Features


Other features of the theatre include 44 counter-weight lines for sets and lights and a four-manual, 78-rank Aeolian-Skinner concert organ commissioned by Milton Hershey. The organ's 4,715 pipes and 25 bells are concealed behind the French doors of the front balconies.


stage
My niece prepares for her future stage career.
stage
Behind the scenes.
As we wrapped up the tour, I learned with some excitement, that we would be viewing the dressing rooms, where many luminaries once prepared to take the stage. I'm always a bit surprised at how humble most dressing room accommodations are. I learned this decades earlier on when I visited the "Green Room" of Regis and (at the time) Kathy Lee. The space featured a lone card table, stale donuts and a sagging couch. As the "Fresh Prince of Bel Air's" butler geared up for an interview, he struggled to extricate himself from the well-worn piece of furniture. I recall him being a large man and the not-yet-so-large Will Smith grabbed his hand in an effort to pull the struggling actor to his feet.

The dressing rooms in the Hershey Theatre didn't disappoint and I couldn't help but think of all the celebs who spent time in the unassuming areas tucked away in corners beyond the stage.


dressing room
Unassuming spaces where actors prepare to take the stage.

dressing room
Dressing room at the Hershey Theatre.

This is just a small taste of what it's like to tour the historic theatre. Tours are held every Friday at 11 a.m. year round, or on Sundays at 1 p.m. starting Memorial Day weekend and continuing through Labor Day. To make arrangements for your own personal tour, call 717-533-6299.

Friday, March 16, 2018

Omni Bedford Spring's Resort Stands the Test of Time

The older I get, the more I enjoy history, which is not all that uncommon from what I am learning. I have to admit that I am rather late to the party when it comes to visiting the many interesting and unique properties that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. To date, I haven't made much of a dent in that list since since Pennsylvania alone is home to more than 3,000 such structures. Nevertheless however, I am always excited to set eyes on a property that makes it on the list. Learning the backstory from those who carefully present a case for preservation is intriguing as well.

I visited the Omni Bedford Springs for the first time this Valentine's Day. Until then, I knew little about the property and its rich history, but soon learned more thanks to a knowledgeable guide who conducts group tours throughout the week. 
Omni Bedford Springs, view from the bridge.
Located in the Allegheny Mountains of south Pennsylvania, the Omni Bedford Springs is home to eight mineral springs which, for centuries, were used by Native Americans for drinking and bathing. The water, with its rich mineral content, was said to contain curative properties, which eventually caught the attention of a local doctor by the name of John Anderson. In 1796, Anderson purchased the 2,200-acre property on which the resort now stands. Anderson began building bathing facilities for his patients and offered them custom prescriptions based on their individual health issues, while housing them in tents during their stay.

As "taking the waters" grew in popularity, Anderson decided it was time to erect a structure to accommodate visitors. Aaron Burr, with grandson in tow, were among the first notable guests of the Bedford Springs Hotel. Many others would follow.

In 1816, Attorney James Buchanan visited the Springs for the first time, followed by Thomas Jefferson, who suffered from acute rheumatism. By 1842, the resort had earned luxury status. Frequent guests included Presidents Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, James K. Polk and Zachary Taylor. Other dignitaries included Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and John C. Calhoun. As the hotel gained a reputation as a retreat for the elite, it attracted top businessmen and industrialists, including such luminaries as Henry Ford and John Wanamaker, who maintained a suite on the first floor. Buchanan famously used the resort as his "Summer White House" from 1857-1861 and received the first transatlantic cable from England's Queen Victoria while staying at the Bedford Springs Hotel in the summer of 1858. 

The Bedford Springs Hotel also laid claim to other "firsts," including one of the first golf courses. Designed by Spencer Oldham in 1895, the course at Bedford Springs is one of the oldest in the United States. In 1905, the resort also installed the first spring-fed, Olympic-sized indoor pool in the nation.

The hotel's heyday lasted approximately two decades--from 1900 through 1920. During the 1920s,  its popularity began to wane as the country suffered the economic impact of The Great Depression, followed by World War II. In the mid-1940s, the hotel experienced an uptick in business thanks to the construction of the Pennsylvania Turnpike and the subsequent popularity of hotel tourism, which was fortuitously followed by a post-war economic stimulus. 

In 1984, the hotel was added to the National Register of Historic Places as one of the best remaining examples of "Springs Resort Architecture." Two years later the property ended what was a good run in the hospitality industry. This, of course, dismayed the citizens of Bedford, who held out little hope that their crown jewel would ever return. It wasn't until 2004 that the property would undergo a rebirth due to the efforts of a development company that specialized in historic renovation. The three-year, $120 million project was completed in 2007 and was purchased by Omni Hotels and Resorts in 2009.  Today it stands as a mixture of old and new. To wit, a rare, 39-star United States flag dates back to 1865 and hangs behind the modern front desk. Historians may question the date so it's important to note that although only 36 states were in existence at the time, the creator, in a spate of optimism, added an additional three, making the acquisition a rare, one-of-a-kind specimen.

The lobby of the Omni Bedford Springs.
Cozy.

Plenty of Activities
Packing a bathing suit for a dip in the heated indoor pool is a must and guests who gaze upwards will see an elevated opera box where musicians once serenaded swimmers back in the days of yore.
Those hankering for a little pampering will find plenty of opportunities at the 30,000 square foot "Springs Eternal Spa." The spa at the Omni is just one of just a few in the country to use natural spring water for treatments. The "menu" includes an array of services ranging from body scrubs, manicures, pedicures, massages, facials and even reiki. The popular destination is usually booked for weeks on end, so visitors are encouraged to call ahead. Staff recommends six-to-eight-week's advance notification.
Products solds at the "Hope Springs Eternal" spa.
For guests who enjoy the great outdoors, Omni offers a variety of activities like fly fishing, trap shooting, off-road vehicle tours, hiking trails, lawn games, horseback riding, tennis and segway tours beginning on April 1.

A Focus on Dining
The Omni Bedford Springs is known for its quality culinary program and many take advantage of the opportunity to watch chef demonstrations held at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

During our stay, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of sea bass and steak in the formal Crystal Room where chandeliers are a focal point and pictures of guests from a bygone era adorn the walls.
The Crystal Room


Sea bass over wild rice served in the Crystal Room.

Steak with carrots over polenta and pesto served in the Crystal Room.

A lovely Valentine's Day dessert served with a rum "injection."

One afternoon we made it a point to grab a drink at the Frontier Tavern and settle into the oversized comfy chairs to enjoy the view overlooking the front of the property. Directly outside is a fire pit that  is pulled into commission during warm summer evenings for toasting s'mores.

Additional dining is available in the 1796 room named for the year when Dr. John Anderson purchased the property. Known for its USDA 21-day-aged prime beef and world-class wine list, the 1796 Room is a less formal alternative to the Crystal Room known for its historic atmosphere in an older part of the building.
An antique stove is on display at the front of the Frontier Tavern.
.
An antique tapestry hangs on the walls of the 1796 room. 
Our tour guide describing the 1796 room as one of the oldest rooms on the property.
Boutique Shopping
Shops line the hall of the first floor.

An array of merchandise ranging from gifts, to books, logo items, clothing and accessories can be found in the shops that line the first floor. And since the Omni Bedford Springs is home to one of the top 100 golf courses in the nation, it stands to reason that they'd offer golfers the opportunity to choose from a variety of accessories and attire at the onsite pro shop. According to the tour guide, panes of glass were salvaged from the original property, so be sure to linger a bit in the "Duke of Bedford" library, where, if you look closely, you'll see names etched into the windows by various guests over the years. Called "the truing of the ring," newly married visitors would etch their names into the glass to test the authenticity of their diamond rings.

Visiting the Springs
Crossing the bridge to the springs.
View from the Bridge.
The Iron Springs and Wedding Grotto.
Of the eight springs on the property, three are capped: the Sweet Spring, the Sulphur Spring and the Crystal Spring. The Sweet Spring  was used by the early hotel for cooking and washing and is marked by a lion's head sculpture. The Sulphur Spring, formerly known as the Yellow Spring, was used to treat moderate bleeding, constipation and chronic diseases. The Crystal Spring, located south of the resort, was once compared to the "Carlsbad of Europe." Part of a mammoth was discovered nearby during an excavation.

Non-capped springs include the Magnesia Spring, the Limestone Spring, the Black Spring, the Iron Spring and the Eternal Spring.

The Magnesia Spring, located behind the wedding grotto, was demonstrated to have many curative properties and was used to treat liver disease, malaria and stomach and kidney disease. 
The Black Spring is said to contain the most potable water and is responsible for the irrigation of the golf course.

The effervescent Iron Spring contains iron and common salts and was used for blood and bone disorders.

The Eternal Spring was discovered beneath the hotel during the most recent renovation. It feeds the indoor pool and the on-site spa. Consult your concierge for directions to these natural wonders.

One courtesy that the Omni generously offers non-guests is the opportunity to explore the springs on the property. Guests are also encouraged to take advantage of any scheduled tours and are welcome to visit the restaurants on site as well.

Exploring Bedford 

After our stay at the Omni, we decided to explore Bedford's quaint downtown. One of our stops was at Bedford Candies. The small business located at 132 East Pitt Street has been making handmade, hand-dipped chocolates since 1929. The bright and cheery store was operated by the Sotirokos family for three generations before employee Tammy Wiley assumed ownership. She continues the daily tradition of making products onsite using old family recipes.
Bedford Candies was founded in 1929.
Bedford Candies sales floor.
Another Bedford shop worthy of a visit is Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant  located on the corner of Juliana Street. The historic building was built in the 1890s in the Italianate style, originally serving as Oppenheimer's Clothing Store. Later it became home to a G. C. Murphy's--as evidenced by the stoop leading to the front entrance. Inside, you'll find an array of merchandise, from gifts, to home decor, crafts, antiques and collectibles. If you have some time to spare, you can easily wile away an hour inspecting all the unique items for sale.
Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant--look closely at the steps and you'll see evidence of the old G.C. Murphy's.
Founder's Crossing offers two floors of crafts, antiques and sundries.
This shotgun shell flag gave me a chuckle.
G.C. Murphy's Lunch Counter.
I would have loved to have taken the free guided walking tour of Bedford, but it was too early in the year when we visited. Tours last 90 minutes and are conducted every Friday at 3:30 p.m.. starting in June. 
A mural of a young George Washington
As we poked around the town, I snapped a picture of this attractive house and later learned that it was owned by Dr. John Anderson--the individual mentioned earlier who was responsible for founding the resort in  Bedford Springs. Built in 1815, it is characteristic of the Federalist style. Federalist homes often featured American symbols and Dr. Anderson's house was no exception. If you look closely at the front door, you'll get a glimpse of American eagle partially obscured by the wrought iron railing.

The Anderson House

Before we left the area, we ducked into another Anderson building. The Golden Eagle Inn was built in 1794 and was known as The Anderson Mansion. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is known as one of  the oldest buildings downtown.We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the downstairs pub before proceeding home. In retrospect, I wish I had ventured upstairs to take a few shots of the interior of the old hotel. Unfortunately all I can share here is a not-so-stellar picture of the outside and the downstairs pub, but if you follow the link, you can get a little better idea of what lies beyond.
The front of the Golden Eagle Inn, once known as the Anderson Mansion.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch of Korean chicken and a Reuben at the pub downstairs.
When we wrapped up our short visit, I was fairly confident that we had seen much of what Bedford had to offer, although I wouldn't mind returning to the interior of the Golden Eagle Inn and taking the walking tour I mentioned. If you're looking for a unique way to spend a long weekend, Bedford offers much to explore. 

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Stepping Back in Time to a 1700s-era Tavern in Bedford, Pa

Old Tavern
Bedford's Jean Bonnet Tavern

I'm a fan of old taverns and, as such, the Jean Bonnet Tavern located in Bedford, Pennsylvania has held a bit of an allure for me, but it just never seemed convenient to make a special trip there until recently when we decided to visit Omni Bedford Springs resort (more to come on that in a future blog post.)

Many insist that the old tavern is haunted.  For me that adds to its appeal, but as usual, I can't attest to it firsthand. I can, however, provide this link to an interesting video shot by local paranormal investigators.

A Rich History

The exact age of the Jean Bonnet hasn't been quite pinned down. The earliest record on the property is a title transfer of 690 acres from the William Penn family to a land speculator by the name of Hans Ireland, who then transferred it to Indian trader Robert Callender in 1762. Callender was also a commissary for troop supplies and later a scout for George Washington. Many of the features you'll see today like the tavern's stone walls, its impressive fireplaces and the chestnut beams were constructed while Callender owned the property.

The structure, which served as a respite for settlers who made their way west in wooden wagons,  is located along the Lincoln Highway and Route 31. Early on, it served as a French fort and trading post. Old accounts by trappers and traders refer to the building as being on the way to the Old Shawnese Cabins, today known as Shawnee State Park. General John Forbes was said to have stopped at the tavern to await reinforcements before continuing westward in his quest to take Fort Duquesne from the French.

In 1779, Jean (John) Bonnet and his wife purchased the property and shortly thereafter was issued a license to keep a Public House. 

One of the most notable developments after the Revolutionary War was the imposition of a federal excise tax on whiskey, which enraged farmers. The "whiskey tax" was the first tax imposed on a domestic product in the United States and was part of Hamilton's plan to help pay down the national debt caused by Revolutionary War expenditures. The farmers, who would distill their surplus grain and corn into whiskey and sometimes use it in trade instead of money, met in the Jean Bonnet Tavern and raised a "liberty pole," which was a common form of protest during colonial days. 

pole
An example of a "liberty pole" posted on the John Bonnet website
from a Wikipedia image.
Painting by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.  
George Washington lead a group of militiamen to help quell the rebellion and many of his troops camped at the John Bonnet on their way to Pittsburgh in 1794.

Over the years, the property changed hands many times and was also used as a private residence.

Dining at the Jean Bonnet
I suggest making reservations to dine at the Jean Bonnet Tavern. When we arrived during a weekday, the place was doing a brisk business, but I did manage to snap a few pictures surreptitiously, while trying not to disturb anyone. 
Tavern
The front seating room of the Jean Bonnet Tavern. 

tavern booth
One of the few seats that weren't yet taken when we visited. 

tavern

tavern
We found the low-lit atmosphere warm and inviting and if you've ever visited The Dobbin House in Gettysburg, it was reminiscent of the Springhouse Tavern. Menu items included a variety of soups, sandwiches and salads, with more substantial dinner offerings. You can view a menu here
menu
Mike perusing the lunch menu on Valentine's Day 2018. 

fireplace
One of the tavern's many fireplaces. 

tavern sign

fireplace
Another shot of a fireplace in the dining area. 
After we finished our lunch, I ventured upstairs to have a peek and was surprised to see another seating area and a rather large bar. Once again, I tried to be a bit sneaky while snapping a few pics, but this time I didn't quite succeed. As you can tell by the faces of the patrons in the pictures, they weren't very kindly disposed towards me, so the shot could be clearer, but I just found myself wanting to move on. Perhaps they were fugitives, or worse, they may have preferred to protect their identity. One item of note, however, is the impressive fireplace behind their glares
historic bar
Large bar upstairs where yet another fireplace is a focal point.
Unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity to see any of the Inn rooms, but you can have a looky look by clicking on this link here.
stairs
Stairs behind the bar lead to the rooms upstairs. 
On the way out, we stopped inside The Cabin Shop, which sold a selection of crafts made by local artisans, including candles, jewelry, accessories and home decor. 
shop
The Cabin Shop on the grounds of the Jean Bonnet Tavern features a variety of merchandise ideal for gift giving.
It might have been a cold, cloudy day when we visited the Jean Bonnet, but the atmosphere was both warm and welcoming and evidently others feel the same. TripAdvisor has awarded the Tavern a Certificate of Excellence Award for its hospitality.

If you'd like to consider visiting, the tavern is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to  9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.