Bethlehem Pennsylvania Earns Its Name as "Christmas City"

Are you one of those overachievers who has already trimmed the tree, bought and wrapped the gifts, baked the cookies and is spending time scanning Pinterest for more projects to complete before Santa arrives? Me neither, so adding an out-of-town getaway to your list might be piling on. (If you're wondering why my blog posts haven't been as frequent, let's just say I blame the season for the reason.)  As an enabler, it's my job to encourage a self-indulgent getaway this time of year. After all,  if your nerves are frazzled, it might be what you need to recharge your batteries so you can return home refreshed and ready to tackle any projects that await. Things do seem to get done one way or another, don't they? Have faith and keep moving is my motto.

One special place I like to visit each year is Bethlehem,located in the Lehigh Valley of  Pennsylvania. And yes, I'll admit I've written about the regon a few times, but there's so much to do and see in the area that I always seem to find new ground to cover. 

Selecting a Place for an Overnight Stay

Since I first set foot in Bethlehem about a decade ago, I immediately became enamored with the historic Hotel Bethlehem, which is particularly striking this time of year, touting dozens of wreaths, Christmas trees and larger-than-life toy soldiers.  The hotel, constructed in 1922 at the direction of Bethlehem Steel President Charles M. Schwab, is located within walking distance of shops, galleries, restaurants and boutiques. Luminaries like Thomas Edison (pardon the pun) and Henry Ford were early visitors and the list of celebrities who have visited is rather long. Evidence remains in the form of pictures, which decorate the wall of the first floor Tap Room, so be sure to stroll over and have a look. 

A picture taken from the second floor of the Hotel Bethlehem.

Staff sets up for Sunday brunch.

Pictures taken from the second floor of the Hotel Bethlehem.

The Hotel Bethlehem is also known for its fabulous brunch, which has earned a spot in the top 100 brunches list as recognized by the OpenTable Diners' Choice Awards. Every Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., people come from miles around to enjoy the bounteous buffet, which includes a selection of seafood, a carving station, made-to-order waffles, omelets and more. 

The hotel also offers fine-dining at "1741 on the Terrace," where CIA graduate Chef Michael Adams demonstrates his culinary talents with dishes like "Osso Bucco," lobster ravioli and New Zealand salmon. 

"1741 on the Terrace" features Palladian windows and Moravian tile floors.

Don't leave without checking out the murals in the "Mural Ballroom." Painted by artist George Gray in 1936, the seven murals tell the stories of people and events in the area, from the founding of Bethlehem, to the birth of the iron and steel industry. Ben Franklin is pictured visiting the area to counsel the Moravians on self protection and a painting of Asa Packer recognizes the businessman's humble beginnings as a "Breaker Boy." Packer later controlled the Lehigh Valley Railroad, before founding Lehigh University.

The Liberty bell was removed from Philadelphia to prevent the British from melting it into cannon. The wagon broke down in Bethlehem, as depicted above. 

A mural depicting Casimir Pulaski, Father of the American Cavalry, visiting the Marquis de Lafayette in Bethlehem in 1777.

Behind the Hotel Bethlehem is an historic area known as the Colonial Industrial Quarter where restored buildings located along the Monocacy Creek tell a tale of days of yore. Among them are a limestone tannery and waterworks (1792), known as the first municipal water-pumping system in the country. Replica buildings include a springhouse and a blacksmith shop where docents demonstrate and explain the craft. Exploring the area is free and signs along the path provide important historical details.

Located across the street from the Hotel Bethlehem is the oldest, continuously operating bookstore in the world. Established in 1745, the Moravian Book Shop offers a wide range of books and out-of-the-ordinary gifts to suit a variety of tastes.

For those interested in gaming and shopping, the Sands Casino Resort is an excellent choice and offers not only comfortable accommodations, but a nice variety of dining options. Seafood lovers will enjoy Emeril's Fish House, with selections like King Crab legs and striped bass, oysters, scallops, crab cakes and a mouthwatering and popular buttermilk fried chicken. 

The Sands offers comfortable and spacious accommodations.

Unique lighting fixtures at Emeril's Fish House.

Buttermilk fried chicken at Emeril's.

Another famous chef represented at the Sand's is the talented "Buddy" Valastro. At "Buddy V's" the cake boss offers up food inspired by Valastro family gatherings with dishes like steak pizzaiola, linguine and clams with lobster and a wide-range of desserts ranging from Cannoli to Zeppole.

Take your chances on slots or table games after dinner, or consider heading next door to the Outlet at Sands Bethlehem. There you'll find a retailers like Charming Charlie's, Coach, Lenox, Dressbarn, Christopher Banks, Chicos and Talbot's, to name just a few.

Guests try their luck at the slots at Sands.

The Outlets at the Sands feature a variety of retailers. 

Visiting the Hoover-Mason Trestle at the Steel Stacks
Not far from the Sands is the Hoover-Mason Trestle, which I visited for the first time this year. The Hoover Mason Trestle was once used as a narrow gauge railroad to transport coke, limestone and iron ore needed to make iron. The railroad carried the materials from the ore yards to the blast furnace. Today people can get up close and personal with the 46-foot tall, 2,000-foot-long trestle via public walkway. As someone who once lived near Steelton, Pennsylvania, I am quite familiar with Bethlehem Steel, which employed many individuals in the area.  

Peering down into a building where employees once worked. 

Museums Galore
Bethlehem has a rich history and, as such, there are no lack of museums. A few include the Apothecary (located behind the Moravian bookstore), the Moravian Museum of Bethlehem,  Gemeinhaus, the Sisters' House, Burnside Plantation and the Goundie House, which is especially fun this time of year. Each day from December 5 through December 23, around 5:30 p.m., a town crier calls for everyone to gather round and a child is selected from the crowd to open the door of the house located at 501 Main Street. What's behind the door usually creates a bit of a buzz until the surprise is revealed, be it  carolers, bagpipers or quartets who emerge from the house to entertain the crowd and afterwards distribute treats to the wide-eyed children. 

For the first time this year, I visited the only museum in Pennsylvania to be dedicated to the decorative arts. The Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts is housed in three, interconnected, mid-1800's homes and features period rooms and galleries containing furnishings that reflect changes in style over the past three centuries. This time of year the museum is decorated for the season.

The Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts Features Several Christmas trees to celebrate the season.

Celebrating American Excellence at the National Museum of Industrial History 
A newcomer to the Bethlehem scene is the National Museum of Industrial History (NMIH), which opened its doors in August of 2016. Housed in a 100-year-old former Bethlehem Steel Facility, the NMIH features approximately 100 machines borrowed from the Smithsonian's 1876 collection. The mission?  To tell the story of America's industrial achievements through the accomplishments of our workers, innovators and entrepreneurs.

An old mosaic that was discovered in one of the Bethlehem Steel offices. 

This Corliss Pumping Engine used by York Water Company kept the city supplied with water during Hurricane Agnes in 1972. 

This slide-valve steam engine powered planes, drills, presses, boring mills and lathes.

One of the first steam hammers used in America was crafted in Manchester, England. 

This "winder" transferred yarns from skeins to bobbins and was typically operated by younger workers in a mill until the 1920's until child labor laws became more restrictive.

Bobbin boys and girls worked nine hours a day in the silk mills in the early 20th century.

Further Off the Beaten Path

If you have some extra time and would like to explore the surrounding area, consider a stop at Vynecrest Vineyards & Winery. The family-owned business is known as the oldest vineyard in Lehigh County and makes approximately 22,000 gallons of wine per year. Today they offer a total of 20 varieties. 

Tasting a few varieties in the lower level of the business. 

Upstairs a crowd begins to gather on a Saturday night.

The Glasbern Inn located in Folgelsville, Pennsylvania offers overnight accommodations and a romantic restaurant that is open to the public seven days a week. People come from miles around to dine in the highly regarded restaurant housed in a 19th-century barn that features soaring ceilings, a cozy fireplace and field stone walls. The owners make it their mission to stay as local as possible in procuring their ingredients, many of which are grown on site. 

Grass-fed beef tenderloin served at the Glasbern Inn.

After reading about all there is to do, you might understand why I find the Bethlehem area so enchanting during Christmastime and if you're lucky, you might encounter a few carolers strolling the streets in period dress.

If you can't find time in your schedule to visit during the Christmas season, there are still plenty of things to do throughout the rest of the year and with a little planning, perhaps you'll have the time to return for next year's Christmas season. 

Foodie Fun on Arthur Avenue

Lamb, pork, pancetta, veal, rabbit, pheasant, tripe, brains--you can find it all at Biancardi's.

Italians instinctively know that food and love go together like spaghetti and marinara sauce. I was lucky to learn that lesson early while growing up and feasting on delicious Italian food crafted lovingly by my grandmother Josephine. Nana spent many hours in her small, cozy kitchen preparing a variety of Italian specialties as only she could, but it was her ravioli and meatballs that we loved the most.

The smell of simmering sauce would permeate the air tempting our taste buds as we approached the porch. Without fail, my dad would make a bee-line for the kitchen, grab a fork and stab a meatball from a simmering pot, inevitably dripping sauce on his shirt in an effort to escape her smack as she shooed him away. I think they both secretly enjoyed the ritual.

Years have gone by and they are gone, but every time I bite into a good Italian meatball, or indulge in a decadent dish of ravioli, I'm reminded of how much I miss them both and wonder if either of them visited Arthur Avenue at some point in their lives.

I recently learned of the foodie destination located in the Belmont section of the Bronx thanks to a local travel  travel agency that offered a bus trip to the area. It piqued my curiosity, so I signed up and was soon exploring the neighborhood also known as "the real Little Italy."

Chockablock with Blocks of Shops
No matter where you live in these United States, you're likely noticing the demise of the "mom-and-pop" establishments. The fact that many continue to thrive in this small area is a testament to their grit and determination.

Many of the businesses are passed down from generation to generation. Maria Cappiello is just one of the individuals who shared her "Arthur Avenue" story with me. Her father was born in 1929 in a cold water flat above his parent's butcher shop on the famous street. "He and his brothers all became butchers and his sister married a man who worked in the store. That man went on to open a deli in the market that is still thriving today," said Capiello, whose mother arrived from Italy in 1951, moved to the neighborhood and frequented the shop. Cappiello said she spent many fun times on Arthur Avenue visiting both sides of her family in the 1970's and 80's and  returns to this day with her children to visit and dine in the old neighborhood.

Danielle Oteri, founder of food tour company "Feast on History," also has familial ties to the area. Her great-grandfather Albino Oteri opened a fish market on Arthur Avenue in 1916.Today she shares stories with tourists who come from miles around to stock up on provisions and take a leisurely stroll around town to indulge in bits and bites of this and that.

Treats along the way include salami and freshly made mozzarrella at Joe's Italian Deli. (Photo Courtesy of Danielle Oteri, Feast on History)

"We have many amazing mom-and-pop shops and our goal is to keep people coming back," said Oteri. And it appears they do. Many individuals who rode the bus with me knew the routine and  brought coolers along to stow their purchases for the ride home.

Oteri takes guests to 12 iconic establishments where they can taste products and learn more about the history of the businesses, many which have survived for years, like Tino's, known for its pizza (shown below), subs, dried pasta and an impressive selection of olive oil and vinegar.

Tino's delicatessen is another stop along the tour. (Photo courtesy of Danielle Oteri, Feast on History)

A popular stop along the way is Calabria's pork shop known for its "sausage chandeliers." A few of the stand-out products include soppresatta, capicollo and a paprika-coated Italian bacon named pancetta Calebrese, "It's a butcher shop devoted solely to pork, which used to be more common years ago," said Oteri, adding that they butcher and cure all their own meat onsite, rather than in a warehouse. "The quality is magical," she said.

Pork chandeliers at Calabria's (Photo courtesy of Feast on History)

Cheese lovers will find a little slice of heaven at Calandra's, which has been in operation since the 1930's. "At one time Calandra's used to sell ricotta only," said Oteri.

A shot of the interior at Calandra's 

Today Calandra's offers an array of cheeses, pasta, sausage and more. I spotted the curiosity pictured below on one of the shelves and learned later that it's a lemon-flavored antacid that hails from Italy and is often taken after meals as a digestive. Galeffi is touted as "thirst-quenching" and "refreshing." The blurb on the bottle gave me a chuckle. It promises a taste that is superior to prior versions. Later research revealed that it is used as a substitute for Brioschi, which has gone out of business. But enough about indigestion...let's talk ravioli!

Galeffi--an Italian product used to aid digestion

Another Bronx institution located not far from Calandra's is Borgatti's Ravioli & Egg Noodles, founded in 1935. The third-generation, family run, specialty pasta shop has been recognized by the Food Network and Epicurious Magazine and was awarded a 29 out of 30 for quality by Zagat's Marketplace survey. All I know is that the overstuffed cheesy pillows were among the best ravioli I've ever tasted.

Borgatti's, founded in 1935, was where I purchased some of the best ravioli I ever tasted.

Purchases made during my trip.

Also worthy of mention is Teitel Brothers. The third-generation, family run business traces its humble beginnings to Jacob and Morris Teitel, a pair of Austrian Jewish immigrants who made their way to America by way of Ellis Island. It's been reported that Jacob speak Italian before he mastered English because his neighbors were predominantly Italian. For more than a century, the family has been doing business on Arthur Avenue and customers continue to flock there for Italian gourmet specialty items like imported olive oil, canned tomatoes, aged vinegar and fresh sausage, to name but a few.

A must-stop for pastry lovers is Egidio Pastry which dates back to 1912 and is known as the oldest pastry shop in the Bronx. The shop remained in the family until the 1990's when the last daughter (who was in her 90's at the time) sold it to a woman of Italian descent by the name of  Carmella Lucciola. "Carmella still uses all the original recipes written by hand on onion skin paper stored in a box in the kitchen. Bakers continue to refer to those recipes," said Oteri.

And no trip to the area is complete without a stop at the Arthur Avenue Retail Market where you'll find Mike's Deli, which earned national attention when Bobby Flay challenged proprietor David Greco to an eggplant Parmesan throw down. To find out who won, you can visit the webpage here. 

During my visit, I even witnessed a few fireworks while strolling between the stalls. An older woman and a younger female (whom I assumed were family) were engaged in a heated exchange. The younger one stormed off the job while the men just smiled and shook their heads; they knew better then to get involved. Don't ask me how I know. Ahh, nostalgia.

Scenes from Arthur Avenue Retail Market, taken from my perch at the Bronx Beer Hall.

Peter's Meat Market in the Arthur Avenue Retail Market

The retail market carries nearly everything you'll need for a splendid repast, from meats, to cheeses, to pasta, fish and more. The Bronx Beer Hall is a relative newcomer that opened in 2013.  Located in the heart of the action, it specializes in beer from local breweries and provides the shopper with a chance to take a break, grab a bite and enjoy an adult libation. I unloaded my packages on the bar and savored a glass of Cabernet before heading back out to explore. 

Restaurants Aplenty
Arthur Avenue is no place for those watching their "carb" intake, so save up those calories and  consider ditching the diet before visiting. I never experienced the food at the restaurants on Arthur Avenue since my time in the area was limited. Nonetheless, I did manage to snack along the way, tasting a little here and a little there.

Having heard much about Michelin-recommended Tra Di Noi (meaning 'between us'), I made it a point to poke my head inside to snap a picture of the old-school, red-checked tablecloth, Italian mainstay.

Tra Di Noi is listed on TripAdvisor as the #1 restaurant in the Bronx. 

The intimate trattoria ranks number one on TripAdvisor with its classical Italian cuisine . Chef Marco Coletta, who once cooked for Italian nobility, brings over 50 years of cooking experience to the table. It's definitely on my list of places to try when I return in May. 

Walk off those calories

During my exploration, I stumbled on the Bronx Library Center, where I bought a few books and browsed amidst the stacks. I was pleasantly surprised to discover a thriving library in a busy shopping area.  

Other Bronx destinations worthy of mention include the Bronx Zoo and the New York Botanical Gardens both located in Bronx Park. The Bronx Zoo, is known for being the largest metropolitan zoo in the United States and is among the largest in the world averaging approximately 2.15 million visitors each year. 

The nearby botanical gardens are recognized as a National Historic Landmark. Dating back to 1891 the destination spans 250 acres and attracts nearly one million visitors per year. Events and exhibitions are listed on their website.

The New York Botanical Garden features an impressive collection of plants, rotating exhibits, educational programs and a host of events according to season. (Photos courtesy of the New York Botanical Garden)

The NYBG features a Holiday Train show, which runs from November 22, 2015 through January 15, 2018

These are but a few of the age-old institutions that make Arthur Avenue what it is today. Have you visited? I'd be interested in knowing about your favorites before I return.