Wednesday, August 23, 2017

Columbus Antiquities Discovered in the Unlikeliest of Places

Sometimes it's amazing the roundabout way we discover treasures that were heretofore unbeknownst to us. In fact, it was quite by accident that I learned that Pennsylvania is home to an impressive collection of antiquities once owned by Christopher Columbus--yes, that  Christopher Columbus--the one who sailed the ocean blue in Fourteen Hundred Ninety-Two.

I learned about the collection after returning from Key West, where I visited the Hemingway House. When I sat down to share the details on this blog, I realized that I needed a few more specifics about the abode that once belonged to the famous author, so I picked up the phone to reach out to the contacts listed on the web page. The kind lady who answered my questions soon discovered that I lived in Pennsylvania. She then shared that she hailed from the Boalsburg area and marveled at the fact that as a travel writer, I was unaware of the astounding collection of Christopher Columbus artifacts that are tucked away in her small corner of the woods. 

Since then, I always tell people that we made our way to the treasures in Boalsburg by way of Key West.

The Boal Mansion Museum
house
The mansion from the front

Boalsburg is home to fewer than 4,000 inhabitants, but it also has the distinction of being known as the birthplace of Memorial Day. The kind lady on the phone offered up that little factoid as well. It's amazing how few realize the historical importance of Boalsburg, let alone the fact that a king's ransom of priceless artifacts lies just beyond the treeline on business route 322.    

Less than two hours after leaving our home near Harrisburg, we found ourselves navigating our way up a long gravel driveway to the 200-year old Boal Estate and poking around the "rustic" grounds which are home to the "Columbus" chapel and the Boal Mansion. Director Bob Cameron explained that manicured lawns don't necessarily "hew to history" and furthermore, a tornado had just touched down taking out several large trees. We felt lucky to have avoided that storm.

A docent greeted us and led us through the Mansion first, providing us with a great deal of information about the Boal family beginning with David Boal, a Scottish-Irish pioneer. Boal, in his quest for inexpensive land and freedom, founded the village and established a popular tavern nearby. The mansion began as a simple log home and evolved into what it is today.

David's son George became a farmer and advocated for those who worked the land after securing a seat in the Pennsylvania House of Representatives and founding the Centre County Agricultural Society. The Farmer's College, now known as Pennsylvania State University, is located in nearby State College. Penn State fans can thank George for that.

The Columbus connection can be attributed to the fourth generation of the Boal family. Colonel Theodore Davis Boal traveled to Europe in the 1890s to study architecture. It was there that he met a French-Spanish aristocrat by the name of Mathilde de Lagarde, who was related to Christopher Columbus by marriage.

Visitors who tour the mansion will view original furnishings belonging to the Boal family, along with portraits, tools, weapons, place settings and other artifacts.

The Boal family was "well-connected" and it shows. Among the collection are five different original presidential signatures, a lock of Napolean's hair, (de Largarde was a descendant of Josephine), and items signed by the astronauts from Apollo 11. I'd be remiss in failing to mention the items that are on display from King Tut's great grandparents' tomb, courtesy of George Jack Boal, who married a woman whose brother-in-law was the Egyptologist who made the discovery.

living room
The Living Room/Library of the Boal Mansion was added to the home in 1809.

room
The Boal Mansion Dining Room
The elegant Boal Mansion ballroom was added in 1898 by Theodore Davis Boal and features a piano once owned by Dolly Madison.
Piano owned by Dolly Madison

room
Ballroom at the Boal Mansion 
Docents prefer to hold the information about the contents of the Columbus Chapel close to the vest until the end of the house tour when guests are then led to an ancient-looking stone structure with a unique backstory all its own.

The Columbus Chapel
Located just a short walk from the mansion, the Columbus Chapel is said to contain "the most significant collection of Christopher Columbus artifacts in North America." For this, you can thank Mathilde de Lagarde, the wife of Theodore Boal. De Lagarde inherited the collection from her Aunt Dona Victoria Columbus. Columbus died widowed and childless and willed the chapel to her niece. Colonel Boal's initial desire was to transport the structure to Boalsburg, but the Spanish government would have no parts of it, so he decided to build an exact replica on the Boalsburg mansion grounds and move all the contents to the property.

The anticipation of what lies beyond hangs heavily in the air as the docent fiddles with the lock on the metal security doors. Finally, it's time to reveal the original entrance to the chapel. The ornately carved, old heavy wood door doesn't disappoint and leads the way to the collection within.
entrance
The ornately carved door leads the way to the antiquities therein.

There's a sense of reverence inside the cozy structure that touts an array of ancient artifacts, like a well-used admiral's desk that Columbus pressed into service on his four journeys to the New World, 15th-century paintings and various statues ranging in date from the 14th-17th century. The Columbus Family Tree and Coat of Arms hang above on the choir loft and silk religious vestments with gold embroidery as old as 500 years are stored behind a clear partition in a chest of drawers.
church
The interior of the Columbus Chapel in Boalsburg, Pennsylvania

crest
Columbus Coat of Arms
priest
Funeral vestments may strike fear into the hearts of some
Stored inside a leather case is a silver reliquary, which is said to contain two pieces of the true cross of Jesus Christ brought back during the Crusades. On the wall hangs a manuscript attesting to its authenticity as certified by a Spanish Bishop.
cross
The reliquary ensconced in its case
reliquary
Inside the silver reliquary are two pieces of wood said to be part left arm of the "True Cross"
Hidden behind confessional doors are 165,000 pages of family archives dating back to the year 1451. One wonders if they shouldn't be hermetically sealed in some manner, but we were assured that the correspondence has been cataloged for posterity courtesy of the Pennsylvania State University.

room
Confessionals which store correspondence dating back to the 1400s.

letters

If you're interested in viewing this amazing collection, there's still time to do so before the season's end. Tours are conducted daily from 1:30 to 5:00 p.m. through October 30. 

You can learn more about the Columbus Chapel and Boal Mansion Museum website by clicking on this link




Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Visiting Lancaster's Conestoga House and Gardens


gardens

Garden lovers still have time before the summer season ends to visit the Conestoga House and Gardens located at 1608 Marietta Avenue in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Once home to James Hale Steinman and his wife Louise McClure Tinsley, the gardens of the plush, 20-acre property are open to the public through September.

The couple purchased the land, including the original house and several outbuildings, in 1927. Philadelphia architects Mellor, Meigs and Howe were commissioned to design extensive additions and modifications, creating what has been described as an outstanding example of Colonial Revival architecture. The work was completed in 1929, and the Conestoga House itself has remained essentially unchanged since then.
Steinman
Mr. and Mrs. Steinman
The Lord of the Manor
Col. James Hale Steinman was a Yale graduate, a practicing attorney, a WWI veteran and an entrepreneur, with a keen interest in radio and television. By the 1930s, he and his brother owned nine AM stations in eastern Pennsylvania and Delaware and in 1949, the brothers founded WGAL-TV as one of the first VHF television station in the country. At the peak of their interest, the Steinman brothers owned six stations.

Steinman could be described as a "media mogel" in his neck of the woods and developed an interest in print, as well, serving as President and co-publisher of Lancaster Newspapers, Inc., which today is known as LNP Media Group, Inc.

After Colonial Steinman’s death, the house and grounds were incorporated as part of the James Hale Steinman Conestoga House Foundation.

The Lady
Louise McClure Tinsley Steinman was born in Nashville, Tennessee to a direct descendant of Charlemagne. Her interests included showing saddle horses, traveling, antiques and, of course, flowers.

A civic-minded individual, Mrs. Steinman served on numerous boards and in 1974 created the Louise Steinman von Hess Foundation to preserve historically significant buildings in Lancaster County. One of her first endeavors was to restore Columbia's Wright's Ferry Mansion to its original state.
She also helped establish the Louise von Hess Foundation for Medical Education to provide continuing education for Lancaster area physicians.

Ms. Steinman passed away on November 12, 1980, nearly 18 years after her James Hale Steinman's death.

The Parties

Louise and James became known for their bridge parties, tennis matches and other outdoor entertainment in the gardens. The couple hosted international celebrities and high-ranking business and government officials and invitations were highly prized. Said one social columnist in 1946, “Everyone who visits the James Hale Steinmans in Lancaster hints like mad for a return invitation. The reason one casts the amenities to the wind and resorts to such out-and-out measures is the combination of beauty, comfort and fun that Conestoga House offers to every one of its continuous stream of weekend visitors.”

patio
sunroom


The Grounds
Today guests can stroll the grounds and imagine what it was like to snag a coveted invitation to the place where the rich and famous frolicked at what was then known as one of the largest residences in Lancaster County.


Rose
160 rose bushes representing 20 varieties of roses can be seen on the grounds. 
The current horticultural collection includes 3,300 annuals, a collection of bonsai, 400 tropical plants, 160 varieties of perennials and more than 20 types of roses. A selection of topiary, flowering Urns, and window boxes add a bit of a European flair, providing additional visual interest.
topiary
Topiary 
flower
Passion Flower

hibiscus
Hibiscus

Cactus
outside garden room


sitting area
Sitting area outside at Conestoga House and Gardens

pool
One of the first in-ground pools installed in Lancaster County

The pool "complex," with its 60-foot swimming pool, bathhouse and dance floor is used today by various civic groups for picnics and special events. Nearby, guests can relax in a shady sitting area built atop a lime kiln in view of a collection of tropical plants.

One of the newest installations includes a water garden featuring hardy lilies, aquatic plants and thriving koi.
lily
Water Lilly 

Tours are self-guided for groups of 15 or less. Groups of more than 15 can make arrangements for a guide by calling in advance. Gardens are open from mid-June through September. Directions and hours can be found on the website at www.conestogahouse.org.

Friday, July 14, 2017

A Historical Walking Tour of Bellefonte

Those who read this blog may recall that I returned to the town of my birth during the month of June to enjoy the area during the warmer weather. (I visited a year before in the winter months.)  While trip planning, I decided to set my sights on learning a little more about the many interesting and stately structures that dot the town.

Centre County Home


I learned that by the early 1800s, Bellefonte had become the most influential town in Pennsylvania between Pittsburgh and Harrisburg due to the booming iron industry. Today, many of those magnificent structures built by the titans of the time still stand.

For those who need a frame of reference, Bellefonte is located just 12 miles northeast of the State College, Pennsylvania where my father received his bachelor's degree. He was a mere sophomore when I arrived kicking and screaming at the hospital in nearby Bellefonte and I think I recall being informed that professor awarded him an "A" on an exam that day. Of course, that could just be family lore; I'm not entirely sure.

Those interested in visiting the Bellefonte area can easily fit in a little side trip to the thriving town of State College or stroll the grounds of "Old Main" in University Park and browse the blocks of shops that are located directly across the street from the college. I took a picture of the campus prior to getting caught in a downpour the weekend of our visit.

Old Main
The building known affectionately as"Old Main" located in nearby University Park
Viewing Bellefonte's Beautiful Buildings
I'm not sure how many people imagine living like a local when visiting another town, but I often entertain such flights of fancy. When I saw all the grand homes, my reporter instinct kicked in and I wanted to learn more. Lucky for me, the Talleyrand Citizens Committee did the initial work by creating a map listing 46 structures with a brief explanation of each. Copies are available at the Central Pennsylvania Convention and Visitors Bureau located at 800 East Park Avenue, so I stopped on the way into town to grab a copy and let my imagination wander.

It just so happened to be hot as blazes that weekend, so my goal of seeing each building fizzled along with my energy thanks to the scorching sun, but I am happy to say I managed to capture pictures of many of them, so without further adieu, here is what I learned on my self-guided, (albeit truncated), walking tour of Bellefonte.

bank
First National Bank Building & Crider Exchange Building
The First National Bank Building was once home to Pennsylvania Supreme Court Justice Thomas Burnside. First erected in 1872, it was later rebuilt 27 years later (this time with the Crider Exchange Building attached) after a fire decimated the home. The Talleyrand Park Citizens Committee describes the two buildings as "flamboyant examples of picturesque, eclectic 'anything goes' architecture."

Bellefonte
Attorney's Row
Located on East High Street on the North side of the courthouse, "Attorney's Row" contains examples of Italianate Period, Pennsylvania farmhouse and Georgian architectural styles.
Bellefonte house
George Grey Barnard house
At 113 E. Linn Street sits the birthplace of American sculptor George Grey Barnard. Barnard trained at the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris from 1883-1887 and is famous for the statues that flank the entrance Pennsylvania State Capitol in Harrisburg. Models of those sculptures can be seen at the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.
You can see the statues and read more about a controversy that took place in 2011 in Harrisburg here.
Barnard is interred in Harrisburg, as per his request to be near his art.
Barnard
Model of the sculptures that greet guests at the entrance to the Pennsylvania State Capitol can be seen at the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.

Register of Historic Places
The Brockerhoff Hotel built in 1864
The Brockherhoff Hotel, located at 105 S. Allegheny Street, was built in 1864 by Henry Brockerhoff, who also built a grist mill in the area. The structure is a fine example of 1860-1870 Gothic Revival architecture and operates today as an assisted living facility.

mansion
The Reynold's Mansion
mansion
The Reynold's Mansion (rear view)
The Reynolds Mansion was once the site of a tavern that was popular in the late 1700s and run by a man by the name of George McKee. The current imposing structure was built in 1885 by a wealthy businessman, landowner, and banker by the name of Major William Frederick Reynolds. The exterior stone, known as "blue brownstone" due to its hue, was quarried by the Hummelstown Brownstone Company in Hummelstown, Pennsylvania. The mansion incorporates Gothic, Italianate and Queen Anne styles and today operates as a luxury bed and breakfast

Bellefonte Mansion
The Hastings Mansion
Daniel H. Hastings became Pennsylvania's 21st Governor and once resided in this impressive structure described by the Talleyrand Historical Society as a "polyglot" of architectural ideas, mostly classical. What I found most interesting about Hastings was that he began his career as a school teacher in Clinton County at the young age of 14 and by 18 was named principal of Bellefonte High School. Before being elected governor, he was involved in several other businesses, from coal mining to banking. Intelligent and industrious, he also worked as editor of the Bellefonte Republican newspaper. As a member of the Freemasons, Hastings also served as Worshipful Master at Bellefonte Lodge #268.

Potter House
The Potter Home
This Georgian home located on the corner of Allegheny and Howard Streets was built in 1815 by John Miles, the son of Colonel Samul Miles, Mayor of Philly and founder of Milesburg.

courthouse
The Bellefonte Courthouse 
The Bellefonte Courthouse was initially constructed in 1805 and a new one was built in 1854. The Soldiers and Sailors War Memorial, along with the statue of Andrew Gregg Curtin, who served as Governor of Pennsylvania from 1861-1867, were designed by Joseph M. Huston, the architect of the state capitol building in Harrisburg. (Huston, by the way, was one of five people who was convicted of graft in 1910 when the capitol building cost overruns raised a few eyebrows.)
Ironmaster's house
Ironmaster's Home
The house pictured above is located at 420 N. Allegheny Street and representative of the homes built by Ironmasters in the 19th century. This particular home was built by George Valentine of the Valentine Iron Company and dates back to 1879. By 1898, the Valentine Iron Company's heyday had run its course and the company was sold to out-of-state buyers at a Sheriff's sale.
Bellefonte
The Bush Arcade
The Bush Arcade was built in the late 1880s to replace the original which was destroyed by fire. In the late 1880s, it was home to a bank, offices, a gentleman's clothing store, a post office, a dry goods store and other retail.
Bush Arcade
An old picture of the Bush arcade ( Fred D. Smith collection)
hospital
Bellefonte's First Hospital
Bellefonte's first hospital was housed at 113 South Spring Street. The lot on which the building stands was first owned by Thomas Burnside who practiced law in Bellefonte and went on to become a member of the U.S. House of Representatives and justice of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania.
Brisbin
Brisbin Home
Pictured above is what was once the abode of James Sanks Brisbin, a teacher who purchased and edited the Centre Democrat newspaper in Bellefonte and later served as a general in the Union Army during the Civil War. Built in 1865, it was constructed of bricks that were hand wrapped and shipped from Philadelphia and is a fine example of Italian revival architecture. Today the structure is home to offices.
Keichline building
A Historical Marker exists in front of this Anna Wagner Keichline building 
Anna Wagner Keichline was born in Bellefonte in 1889 and by age 14 she was breaking barriers by exhibiting her talent in woodworking and taking home first prize at the county fair for an oak card table and a walnut chest. Keichline studied at Pennsylvania State University before transferring to Cornell, where she was the fifth female to graduate with a degree in architecture. The enterprising and hard working Centre County native went on to become the first female architect in Pennsylvania. During her lifetime she worked on many projects, accrued seven patents, advocated for women's rights and served as a special agent during WWI.  To this day, all of Keichline's buildings in the area are in good condition and in use. That includes the Plaza Centre, which now operates as an antique gallery, and is located at 124 West High.

bank
"The Manse" at 201 W. High
This was the site of a home belonging to Reverand James Linn, pastor of the Bellefonte Presbyterian Church. Linn's son Samuel went on to become a Pennsylvania judge for whom Linn Street is named. "The Manse" at 201 W. High once operated as the First National Bank and is a mixture of Gothic, Romanesque and Egyptian architecture. The picturesque building is now home to the law offices of Hamilton and Kimmel.

Match Factory
Once part of the Pennsylvania Match Factory, Big Springs Spirits operates now as a distillery.
Matches were hot back in the day and Bellefonte was home to one of the largest match factories in the United States, producing the product on this site from 1900 through 1947. Workers completed all aspects of production here, transforming a simple block of wood into all manner of matches, from strike-anywhere matches, to safety matches, parlor matches and noiseless double-dip matches. According to the historical society, the factory reached its peak employment during World War II, supplying water-proof matches to American servicemen at home and abroad.

The match factory may have closed, but employees there are still helping people get a little lit. Big Springs Spirits has been operating in the area since 2014 and provides guests with an inviting space to kick back and socialize. Owners Kevin Lloyd and Paula Cipar now distill 12 libations, including vodka, several rums, gins, whiskey and cream bourbon, so when you tire of touring, Big Springs Spirits is the perfect way to end the day.

These are just a few of the 46 structures on the historical, self-guided walking tour provided by the Talleyrand Park Citizens Committee. The map not only lists addresses, but also provides specifics on each of the structures, along with historical markers, information about the seven Governors who hailed from the area, topographical insight and other interesting information that makes the beautiful borough of Bellefonte unique.

Happy Touring!























Tuesday, June 20, 2017

A Summer Day in Beautiful Bellefonte, Pa

The first time I visited Bellefonte, I let out a huge wail after someone slapped my rear and I haven't been the same since. It took me decades to muster up the temerity to return to the town of my birth, but I finally found the time to give it another shot, and I'm happy to report, there was no violence involved.

I lasted visited on a cold, winter weekend in 2015 when the air was frigid and the sky overcast, but my room at The Queen Bed and Breakfast located on Linn Street was cozy and comfortable. I quickly fell in love with the small town and the romantic Victorian architecture. Soon I was dreaming of residing in one of the stately mansions until reality set in and I imagined the heating bills. I awoke from my reverie when the stars in my eyes morphed into menacing dollar signs.
mansion
The Reyolds' mansion located on Linn Street is just one example of the beautiful buildings in Bellefonte.

That cold November afternoon, I watched Talleyrand Park whiz by from the warmth of my car and vowed to return when the weather was warmer and the grass greener.

Last weekend I finally returned to Bellefonte and once again enjoyed the hospitality of Nancy Noll at The Queen. The Victorian bed and breakfast is located within walking distance of downtown, yet residential enough to be evocative of living like a local. Noll seems to think of everything to ensure guests' comfort, from lights that turn on automatically as you pad down the hallways, to providing coffee, tea, and mini-refrigerators on each floor.

During this excursion, my husband and I stayed in the Governor's Suite. Bellefonte breeds Governors, it seems--a total of seven native sons have been elected, hence the name. Our room was spacious and thoughtfully appointed with a fishing theme, luring one's interest with interesting items at every turn. We slept soundly--the king-sized bed was a dream and the lovely, bright, separate sitting room was perfect for reading, or writing a blog, for instance.

room
The Governor's Room at The Queen with its incredibly comfortable King-sized bed.

lodging

room

room
A bright and cozy sitting room, perfect for reading or working.
fruit
A prelude to delicious eggs benedict.

view from a Bellefonte Bed and Breakfast
This shot was taken through the window of the Governor's Suite
Getting Lit at an Old Match Factory
Since Talleyrand Park is adjacent to Big Spring Spirits, I thought why not take a little detour for a large libation. Founded in 2014, the distillery, which has a cocktail room and tasting lounge, is run by Penn State grads Paula Cipar and Kevin Lloyd, who repurposed space in an old match factory. The building dates back to 1931 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.


distillery
Big Spring Spirits
The interior is modern, eclectic and spacious with bar, table and couch seating. Customers can choose from an array of rum, vodka, whiskey and "Governor's" gin. The owners pride themselves on being the first LEED-certified distillery in the state of Pennsylvania, the second in the country and the third in the world. Spirits are crafted with Bellefonte's award-winning Big Spring water deemed "Pennsylvania's Best Tasting Water" at the Pennsylvania Rural Water Association Conference. (I didn't realize what a big deal water tasting was until I became a "Certified Water Taster" myself. You can read more about my experience as a water judge here: http://www.cheeseplatesandroomservice.com/2017/03/whetting-my-whistle-as-water-judge-at.html)

Strolling through Talleyrand
Finally, I returned to Talleyrand. Lush and in full bloom, it made for a bucolic tableau. Few were visiting the park that sunny afternoon other than several small children frolicking on the playground and a few teens conversing on benches. A gazebo is available for picnics and coin-operated grain dispensers allow visitors to feed the huge fish that swim languidly in the waters below.

park

park

duck

ducks

Bellefonte native and sculpture George Grey Barnard (1863-1938) is also recognized in the park with a bust of Lincoln cast from an original. The sculptor is best known for his statuary which flanks the main entrance of the Pennsylvania Capitol Building. (See an earlier Bellefonte entry in this blog to view the scale model that is located in the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.)
Sculpture garden sign
sculpture
Lincoln sculpture by George Grey Barnard
Another homage to the past located in Talleyrand Park is a memorial to the seven Pennsylvania Governors who hailed from the area.
memorial
Bellefonte Governors' Memorial

Classic Car Show Hosted by Bellefonte Cruise
Every Fathers' Day weekend, Bellefonte Cruise rolls into town. This is the 29th year for the event that brings automobile aficionados into downtown Bellefonte. A Friday-night sock hop kicks everything off and the fun continues through the weekend. This year's "Cruise" attracted thousands of spectators and featured more than 300 cars, trucks and motorcycles.
car show
car
antique car
classic car
motorcycles

car
This is the 29th Year for the Annual Bellefonte Cruise

Thus ended a full day's worth of activities in Bellefonte. Day two included a walking tour, which I will save for another blog entry. Meanwhile, those interested in visiting may want to check out a few upcoming events in this scenic and historic area.

Upcoming Events 2017

Annual Fall Festival and Halloween Parade, October 14
Bellefonte Victorian Christmas, December 8 and 9